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7 hours ago, Jonesy Jones said:

Shot with my iPad mini last night. No pp.

Very nice!

7 hours ago, mercer said:

Put a Moment Anamorphic on that bitch and go shoot a film.

Absolutely!  @Jonesy Jones you should actually consider that!

1 hour ago, Jonesy Jones said:

What is a moment anamorphic? I haven’t heard about this.

Moment is a lens company that makes clip-on lenses for smartphones and the like.  They make some anamorphic lenses that you should be able to use with your iPad.  

They're not free, but they're probably under 10% of what it costs (in time and money) to get the next cheapest anamorphic setup :) 

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Moondog is also another provider for a smartphone anamorphic.

They all usually come as 1.33x anamorphic adapters and have clip on types as well as one with a threaded back, like 37mm.

They're usually found for between $150-200

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I ended up buying a BMMCC for a steal and instead of a speedbooster, I was thinking about going with native lenses. I’m looking for a 12mm prime and have narrowed down my options to the Samyang/Rokinon cine, the SLR Magic 12mm 1.6 or the Olympus 12mm f/2. 

Any thoughts on any of those lenses?

I should add that a friend of mine owns the Olympus 17mm, so I could borrow it from him if I need to.

Also I have a Panny 12-60mm kit lens, so I could also pick up the 14mm 2.5 prime or the 20mm 1.7. I guess I could also swing the PanLeica 15mm if it’s head and shoulders above the rest.

I bought the Micro to use for ultra short films and to mess around with so I want to keep the kit very basic... 1 or 2 lenses.

I’m also considering the Panny 12-35mm 2.8 for the OIS and I would probably pick up the 20mm 1.7 for dialogue scenes and B-Unit shots.

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@mercer I have used the Rokinon 12mm f/2 extensively, I really like it. Tiny, bright, plenty sharp, great minimum focus distance, a no-brainer really. Flares are a little bit messy. Mine got damaged somehow and the internal focusing elements got all messed up, but after I took it to a lens technician the infinity focus is bang-on so it's a cinch to get shots really quickly. Here are a couple stills that I think show off the versatility of the lens, flares, bokeh, etc. 

 

Roki_2.jpg

 

Roki_1.jpg

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1 hour ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

The 12-35 2.8 would probably be nice. 12 isn't even that wide on the micro tho. 

 

That’s true, but I am finding that 28 - 35mm is my preferred FOV and I rarely change lenses... I just zoom with my feet. The 12-35mm is an option for its OIS and the rare time I may need a 100mm FOV. 

1 hour ago, Parker said:

@mercer I have used the Rokinon 12mm f/2 extensively, I really like it. Tiny, bright, plenty sharp, great minimum focus distance, a no-brainer really. Flares are a little bit messy. Mine got damaged somehow and the internal focusing elements got all messed up, but after I took it to a lens technician the infinity focus is bang-on so it's a cinch to get shots really quickly. Here are a couple stills that I think show off the versatility of the lens, flares, bokeh, etc. 

 

Roki_2.jpg

 

Roki_1.jpg

They look great... is that with the NX1?

I briefly had the lens with a GX85 a few years ago and liked it... and I especially like the price. It’s also something I can build on if I ever want the 21mm or the 7.5mm for wide shots.

Thanks for the input!

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7 minutes ago, homestar_kevin said:

Do you have your SD cards sorted out?

I just recently bought a second Pocket body really cheap and am now debating the best way forward getting SD cards right now

Crazy enough, a few months ago I was going through my equipment and found a dozen old SD Extreme cards... I thought about the money I spent on them and it became one of the reasons I decided to buy another Micro. Shortly after that was when I found the trailer for that Cosmos movie that was shot entirely on ProResLT and with mostly one lens. I guess I was a little inspired by their experience and my circumstance... being cheap.

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1 hour ago, mercer said:

That’s true, but I am finding that 28 - 35mm is my preferred FOV and I rarely change lenses... I just zoom with my feet. The 12-35mm is an option for its OIS and the rare time I may need a 100mm FOV. 

They look great... is that with the NX1?

I briefly had the lens with a GX85 a few years ago and liked it... and I especially like the price. It’s also something I can build on if I ever want the 21mm or the 7.5mm for wide shots.

Thanks for the input!

I think both of those shots are from the NX500, actually, but yeah, my copy is NX mount, but I have also used the m4/3 version on a GH5 quite a bit, so not quite as wide, but was still my gimbal lens of choice for a long time (until my work bought a Laowa 7.5mm to use instead).

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5 hours ago, mercer said:

I ended up buying a BMMCC for a steal and instead of a speedbooster, I was thinking about going with native lenses. I’m looking for a 12mm prime and have narrowed down my options to the Samyang/Rokinon cine, the SLR Magic 12mm 1.6 or the Olympus 12mm f/2. 

Any thoughts on any of those lenses?

I should add that a friend of mine owns the Olympus 17mm, so I could borrow it from him if I need to.

Also I have a Panny 12-60mm kit lens, so I could also pick up the 14mm 2.5 prime or the 20mm 1.7. I guess I could also swing the PanLeica 15mm if it’s head and shoulders above the rest.

I bought the Micro to use for ultra short films and to mess around with so I want to keep the kit very basic... 1 or 2 lenses.

I’m also considering the Panny 12-35mm 2.8 for the OIS and I would probably pick up the 20mm 1.7 for dialogue scenes and B-Unit shots.

Just buy the Olympus 7-14mm f2.8 lens and be done with it. Once you go Really wide you are hooked. For Video wide is a no brainer.

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39 minutes ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

plus maybe a pana 25mm 1.7

I really have never been a fan of 50mm. Too flat looking. I like 40mm, 42mm better. I would go the 20mm f1.7 myself. I always liked the Sigma Foveon sensor cameras. They use 44mm, 45mm as their normal 50mm. More natural looking than 50mm. It is what the human eye sees. I have always figured if it looks good enough with my normal eyes for me to stop and take a picture, or video, I want to see it in print the way I saw it in real life, not exaggerated, otherwise why would I have stopped in the first place. Now if you are taking shots of Lions, well that is a different story lol. 😬

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5 hours ago, webrunner5 said:

. I would go the 20mm f1.7 myself.

manual focusing on that lens is nightmare, especially with a bigger body like the GH5 

10 hours ago, mercer said:

I’m looking for a 12mm prime and have narrowed down my options to the Samyang/Rokinon cine, the SLR Magic 12mm 1.6 or the Olympus 12mm f/2.

Get the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2 - cheap, nice and sharp

5 hours ago, webrunner5 said:

Just buy the Olympus 7-14mm f2.8 lens and be done with it. Once you go Really wide you are hooked. For Video wide is a no brainer.

That is until you'll need an VND filter, which you can't mount on it. For wide angles, the Tokina 11-16 (or 11-20) on the speedbooster is the better choice. 

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7 hours ago, Adam Kuźniar said:

manual focusing on that lens is nightmare, especially with a bigger body like the GH5 

That is until you'll need an VND filter, which you can't mount on it. For wide angles, the Tokina 11-16 (or 11-20) on the speedbooster is the better choice. 

Your just coming up with excuses. That is what separates the men from the boys. That is why some peoples stuff stand out. They make shit happen no matter the problems or difficulty. Nothing good or great is easy to do. Using a VND filter is really not a good way to go you have to admit that. None of them at any cost is as good as single glass NDs.

And yes the Tokina 11-16 is a nice lens. But I would not call 22mm on a m4/3 body really wide in this day and age. Once I bought my 16-35mm for my Sony A7s I seen the light as they say. I might as well have welded the lens at 16mm I was so impressed. And even that is not super wide in these days.

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12 hours ago, webrunner5 said:

Just buy the Olympus 7-14mm f2.8 lens and be done with it. Once you go Really wide you are hooked. For Video wide is a no brainer.

At a certain point, I can only invest so much into this camera, my 5D3 is still my camera of choice for any major project I work on. I have some c-mounts that I can use and I have a growing collection of Nikkor lenses, so maybe a metabones speedbooster makes more sense... I saw one sell for $125 the other day.

1 minute ago, webrunner5 said:

Your just coming up with excuses. That is what separates the men from the boys. That is why some peoples stuff stand out. They make shit happen no matter the problems or difficulty.

Well... to be fair... with the Micro you need to let in as much light as possible so a VND is necessary to minutely control the light and an IR Cut filter is an absolute necessity, so filter threads are kinda important.

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10 hours ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

I like 50mm on full frame a lot not so much apsc. Though 25mm on the Micro would be a 70mm equivalent. 

Same. 50mm on FF is the focal length I would choose if I could only afford one fast lens... and then I would save up for a cheap, slow 20 or 24mm for wide establishing shots or car interiors.

The Micro sensor is a catch-22. On one hand, there is just something “magical” about that sensor but on the other hand, the crop factor makes it difficult to have a wide angle lens.

And with native lenses, a lot of the interesting character in the sides and corners are cut off due to the crop. And even still, it’s difficult to find something that will translate to a 30mm or less without paying a small fortune for it.

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