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As Hans has said, its difficult to tell with your clip (might be slightly misaligned, which is what Hans was getting at?). Maybe use a longer lens, so when you do zoom in to check critical focus, it'll seem much closer & so be easier to tell.

For me, the real test for Infinity is something way in the distance - that seemed to be about 10-20m away. Is that what you wanted/meant when you said Infinity? If so you're pretty close.

What did you do to the lens?

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

Hard to tell with that video clip. Set to Isco and taking lens to infinity (or what you guess is infinity mark) - use zoom in live view monitor to zoom in as much as you can at an object at distant object. Rotate front or rear optic (whichever one you altered) twist/push/pull until you get it as sharp as you can. That is then confirmed by checking the alignment with its horizontal flare, you ideally want all horizontal lines in the streak flare to be nice and parallel with each other. If you get these thing happening, you'll know that the alignment is correct and sharpness will be acquired at infinity.

this is exactly what I did, but rushed outside and did not align the anamorphic with the camera, so the flares are not quite horisontal. 

As Hans has said, its difficult to tell with your clip (might be slightly misaligned, which is what Hans was getting at?). Maybe use a longer lens, so when you do zoom in to check critical focus, it'll seem much closer & so be easier to tell.

For me, the real test for Infinity is something way in the distance - that seemed to be about 10-20m away. Is that what you wanted/meant when you said Infinity? If so you're pretty close.

What did you do to the lens?

I was trying to get a clock tower that is around 500m away to be in focus, using pixel2pixel preview on external monitor. 

Screwed off the front with the name imprint, loosened 6 or 8 screws that are holding front block in place, pulled out the front block and removed a spacing ring behind it, inserted the same ring that was 6mm thicker, put the block back, tightened the screws. 

Close focus is still there, a pillar on the video was around 80 cm away from the camera sensor. Rangefinder is supposed to focus from 1 meter so I suppose It means that infinity is not yet there on the ISCO yet. 

It's a brilliant idea to use longer lens to do the adjustment, thank you.

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Yes - I was referring to getting the Isco alignment correct by adjusting one on the optics ( in this case the front). By twisting to align with the rear optic, there will be a very finite mark where the optics correctly line up - that is what allows optimum sharpness of the anamorphic. Using longer lens (and live view zoom)  to get this alignment at infinity is a good idea. Flaring the lens (non zoomed) is another good way of checking Isco alignment - if any of the streak flares are not horizontally parallel to each other, there is an alignment issue and therefore not going to be sharp as it should be.

Sounds like you on the right track though.

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So I did re-ajust the lens. I don't think anything have changed from yesterday, really. The only thing that is more pronounced now is vignetting. Pulling that front element out added significant vignette and when shooting agains bright light it lights up too. Here's today's test video. Still thinking about the aspect ratio to use. Tried cropping the image too just to see if there would be any significant quality loss. Can't decide, really. The flares turned out amazing though, blue green and orange, with square-ish edges. 

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Looks great to me...can't see any obvious misalignment in flare streak and it looks pretty sharp throughout the focus range. The Rangefinder is introducing the aqua/blue flare artifacts, as it's blue coated optic is bouncing light through the front and rear optic when exposed to direct light, adding to the iscomorphot's standard golden streak flare.

As for vignette, this looks normal for the S8 iscomorphot - it is often what people call 'barrel glow' or 'veiling glare' it is usually mostly noticeable when some anamorphic lens' are flared with intense direct light. It is almost always caused by the front optic edge of the anamorphot not having blackened edges, causing light to illuminate the frosted optic edge and a glow to happen around the edge of the image. Most of the lenses discussed on this forum were designed to only let light out (as scope projection attachments), rather than let light in (for camera attachment), which is why many do not have edge blackening on the optic front.

This can be solved by using a longer taking lens, to shoot 'through' that apparent vignette of light, or carefully blacken the front optic edge with a black marker pen to dull or eliminate the barrel glow from showing up in direct light. To many, this barrel glow is part of what makes the look of anamorphic unique - so don't worry about it too much, most of the time you may not be filming directly into the sun anyway! 

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On March 14, 2016 at 9:53 PM, tweak said:

As Hans said above that's normal for the S8, mine isn't modified and does the same thing. Do you have anymore details of what you did? I'm curious to know more.

I am getting a bunch of questions about this recently and am planning to make a video guide about the mod. Will psot it here for sure.

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On 21 March 2016 at 9:45 PM, redimp said:

I am getting a bunch of questions about this recently and am planning to make a video guide about the mod. Will psot it here for sure.

Cheers man! Please tag me again when you do!

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1 minute ago, tweak said:

Cheers @redimp appreciate it! So you can't put the name ring back on again after though right? What's your solution for filter thread to attach single focus?

Yeah, the name plate wont come on anymore. I use a big heavy duty aluminum clamp that fits around the "nose" of the isco, custom made.

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