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Panasonic G85 review - is there any need to get an Olympus E-M1 Mark II for video?


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34 minutes ago, essbe said:

As the speedbooster reduces the focal length, you should probably put the new focal length (for example 0.71x50mm, or whatever combination you have of speedbooster and lens).

Do I put the 35mm equivalent of the new focal length or do I use the true focal length. For example a 50mm full frame lens is 100mm on m43 so which should I pick ?

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You're not wrong about Oly.  And I shoot Fuji as well, so all these things are part of the mixed bag.  The thing is, when we're talking price, when we're looking at cameras within similar classes, the

Micro Four Thirds is increasingly going up-market and into pro territory, but unfortunately new Panasonic and Olympus cameras are getting more and more expensive by the day. Thankfully the G85 is

I'm currently NOT eating paella  I'm eating tapas It does the same on the G7 so I'll look at it when I resume work on Monday I have an idea that will probably work 

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35 minutes ago, kidzrevil said:

Do I put the 35mm equivalent of the new focal length or do I use the true focal length. For example a 50mm full frame lens is 100mm on m43 so which should I pick ?

You would pick the 50mm, but the speedbooster will change the "true" focal length, so you change the focal length to the Metabones adapted focal length... from my understanding. 

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I had my first opportunity to go out and use the G85 along with the Leica Nocticron. I much prefer the smaller size of the G85 to the GH4, and the EVF is vastly superior - I can actually see the entire image with my glasses on, and it looks much brighter and sharper as well. As far as the LCD screen is concerned, I don't see any improvement compared to the GH4 and even in overcast light I found myself relying on the EVF. With the camera set to AFS, the camera was still hunting, but when I got home I found that if I turned off focus when shutter button is pressed in the menu, set the camera to MF and use Auto Focus Lock, the lens doesn't hunt any longer. After spending a couple weeks with the Fuji XT2, it is a joy having zebras and a histogram again. No need to keep bracketing my shots to ensure I've got exposure. Battery life is also excellent. AWB may be a touch better than on the GH4, but it is still unreliable, so I set white balance manually. Leaving the camera on AWB, it continually gave me bluish or magenta skin tones in the shade, even when I set WB to cloudy. When I got home and viewed the images, I was kind of disappointed in the AF (no big surprise there), but the colors are pleasing enough and in spite of the lack of an AA filter I saw no evidence of moire or aliasing. Neither did I see any of the over sharpening, crushed shadows or clipped highlights of many of the videos posted online. I used Natural , set the curve to blacks +1, and turned down contrast and sharpening to -4, noise at 0 and I think I left saturation alone. I don't do excessive color grading or anything, and I believe it would only take a few seconds to adjust the colors by simply correcting one clip and pasting the correction on the rest. As far as I can tell from my first outing, the G85 is going to replace my GH4. Oh, and having stabilization in camera is wonderful. So after just a couple hours of shooting, I'd say that for vlogging or any situation where you or the subject are always on the move, the G85 is the camera to get; if you shoot a lot of stills, or shoot video in a more controlled setting, or don't mind using a monopod or tripod, the XT2 is the way to go. And if you are even considering purchasing the GH4 at this point, one word: don't.

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7 hours ago, kidzrevil said:

Do I put the 35mm equivalent of the new focal length or do I use the true focal length. For example a 50mm full frame lens is 100mm on m43 so which should I pick ?

I haven't tried the Speed Booster yet either, but I'm guessing Mercer is correct: if you're using a 50mm lens with the speed booster and shooting 4K, I'd select 75mm (if you've got the Metabones XL 0.64X)

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3 minutes ago, jonpais said:

I haven't tried the Speed Booster yet either, but I'm guessing Mercer is correct: if you're using a 50mm lens with the speed booster and shooting 4K, I'd select 75mm (if you've got the Metabones XL 0.64X)

I think you would want to select 50mm x 0.64 = 32mm. 

A Speed Booster shortens the focal length of a lens.

 

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3 minutes ago, jonpais said:

A 50mm lens with speed booster XL is 75mm equivalent when shooting 4K with the GH4. Not sure with the G85, it's a slightly different crop factor.

I think you are mistaken, IBIS is based on the actual focal length of the lens which is smaller in case you use a speed booster.  The crop factor is not relevant.

But someone from Metabones should probably give the last word on this.

 

 

 

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You would enter the actual focal length of the lens (or of the lens + booster as a package).

Native lenses are of course labeled with this, although you don't have to enter anything for electronic native lenses, as they communicate with the body.

For non-electronic native lenses (Voigtlanders, Samyang/Rokinon m4/3 lenses, etc), you would have to manually enter the lenses' stated focal length. Same for any manual glass with a plain (non-booster) adapter.

For boosted lenses you would enter (lens focal length X speedbooster power), so for instance for a 50mm lens with a .71x booster you would enter 35.5mm (50mm X .71 = 35.5)- or the closest option in the IBIS menu.

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10 hours ago, aldolega said:

You would enter the actual focal length of the lens (or of the lens + booster as a package).

Native lenses are of course labeled with this, although you don't have to enter anything for electronic native lenses, as they communicate with the body.

For non-electronic native lenses (Voigtlanders, Samyang/Rokinon m4/3 lenses, etc), you would have to manually enter the lenses' stated focal length. Same for any manual glass with a plain (non-booster) adapter.

For boosted lenses you would enter (lens focal length X speedbooster power), so for instance for a 50mm lens with a .71x booster you would enter 35.5mm (50mm X .71 = 35.5)- or the closest option in the IBIS menu.

Thank you ! That was the answer I was looking for

@jonpais I completely agree with your statement about the g85. For my usage the camera feels & more importantly the image out of it felt far superior to the gh4 from what I can remember. Some of my best work came from the gh4 and my only gripe was the micro jitter from hand held work and the noise. The g85 solved BOTH problems ! At this point im going to start playing with the in camera satuturation and noise reduction to find the optimal point for me. I always found tampering with contrast or boosting the shadows with the in camera settings on panasonic cameras introduces unneccessary artifacts with no significant gains in dynamic range & destroyed tonality (plastic skin)

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8 minutes ago, e_kjellgren said:

What speedboster and canon glass do you recommend for the G80?

I would recommend Canon mount glass designed for crop sensor. 

For instance the Sigma Art DC series.

Full frame glass, unless it is high end glass, will only give you extra useless weight and bulk and less resolution!

 

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3 minutes ago, e_kjellgren said:

18-35 1.8? Would it be better than the 12-35?

They are both good, they both have superb image quality!

But they are different lenses, the 12-35 has IS that works together with IBIS, focuses faster and has a bigger range, but the Sigma has a larger aperture especially when used with the Metabones Speedbooster.

 

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5 hours ago, e_kjellgren said:

18-35 1.8? Would it be better than the 12-35?

The Sigma will be far better, and instead of f/2.8, you're getting closer to f/1.2 or something. And from what I've shot, even wide open, the Sigma has very acceptable sharpness. Sigma has much better build quality than the made in China 12-35mm. You'll be able to get great bokeh. You asked about Canon glass and a speed booster, but you don't say why, or how you'll be using it, so it is impossible to give any recommendation. If you plan on doing a lot of traveling, the Sigma is heavy as hell. The 12-35 would be the way to go if you plan on flying the camera on a gimbal. If autofocus is important to you, you would be better off sticking with native glass. Finally, there's the expense. With a Metabones, you're looking at around $1,500.00 USD or so. The 12-35 must be going for around half that.

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5 hours ago, jonpais said:

So I'm noticing that when WB looks good in the EVF, it looks reddish in the LCD. Maybe somebody already brought this up?

You are talking about two different kind of screen: the EVF is OLED based and the rear screen is LCD. If I remember correctly, you can adjust the tint and color of them to match.

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@liork Will do. It's the rear screen that is inaccurate. Here's a bunch of clips of my first outing with the G85. First impressions: the handling and image quality are hands down superior to the GH4. Skin tones are markedly improved, and the layout of the dials, buttons and wheels is more convenient, such as having the play button on the right side rather than on the left. The EVF is bright and beautiful, but the flippy rear screen looks about the same as before to my eyes. I have little doubt that the G85 is the best mirrorless 4K for the money today.

 

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32 minutes ago, jonpais said:

@liork Will do. It's the rear screen that is inaccurate. Here's a bunch of clips of my first outing with the G85. First impressions: the handling and image quality are hands down superior to the GH4. Skin tones are markedly improved, and the layout of the dials, buttons and wheels is more convenient, such as having the play button on the right side rather than on the left. The EVF is bright and beautiful, but the flippy rear screen looks about the same as before to my eyes. I have little doubt that the G85 is the best mirrorless 4K for the money today.

 

Look great. Have you tried the EOSHD colour profile yet? Would be interested to see it on this type of footage with lots of skin tones. 

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