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Samsung NX Speed Booster

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@sandro

Yeah you need to follow your target with a manual lens and use a high shutter speed of course just cramp that ISO up max that is what they used to do in the film era, they used really high ISO film and used a high shutter, some would shoot 800ISO film at broad daylight just to get that fast shutter speed.

There are restrictions that you must account for, with a digital camera you can just aim, shot and look at shot if you like it or not but with a manual lens/film camera you must aim for the perfect shot and kind of predict peoples movements, it is very hard to do but that is what I was told from old journalists who grew up in the film era and autofocus was not something they use back then even if they had the camera that could do it, the AF was awful back then.

One of the journalists I spoke to documented wars like Yugoslavian civil war, Chechen war and Georgia and he said similar things but he had even harder time because there was a variable environment, you often would move indoors, outdoors all the time as you follow the troops around. 

So best to just use high ISO, set up camera for the lightning conditions and use a very narrow aperture with high shutter, thankfully you have live view on NX1 so it is FAR easier for you to get the shot right than these veteran journalists had to deal with.

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1 minute ago, SMGJohn said:

@sandro

Yeah you need to follow your target with a manual lens and use a high shutter speed of course just cramp that ISO up max that is what they used to do in the film era, they used really high ISO film and used a high shutter, some would shoot 800ISO film at broad daylight just to get that fast shutter speed.

There are restrictions that you must account for, with a digital camera you can just aim, shot and look at shot if you like it or not but with a manual lens/film camera you must aim for the perfect shot and kind of predict peoples movements, it is very hard to do but that is what I was told from old journalists who grew up in the film era and autofocus was not something they use back then even if they had the camera that could do it, the AF was awful back then.

One of the journalists I spoke to documented wars like Yugoslavian civil war, Chechen war and Georgia and he said similar things but he had even harder time because there was a variable environment, you often would move indoors, outdoors all the time as you follow the troops around. 

So best to just use high ISO, set up camera for the lightning conditions and use a very narrow aperture with high shutter, thankfully you have live view on NX1 so it is FAR easier for you to get the shot right than these veteran journalists had to deal with.

What if you can't predict where your subject will be and it also passes by at high speed? I would love to use manual lenses whatever the system but seriously why create problems if you there's something already there and working? AF won't make a bad photographer :)

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24 minutes ago, sandro said:

What if you can't predict where your subject will be and it also passes by at high speed? I would love to use manual lenses whatever the system but seriously why create problems if you there's something already there and working? AF won't make a bad photographer :)

16-50mm F2-2.8 works really well for everything I ever had to use, the 28 megapixels allows you to really crop a lot.

Sports shooting you never really need high resolution anyway unless you plan on printing it on a billboard

 

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This really has been a heartbreaker camera purchase for many of us and technology just marches on... I think that's why we talk about so many aspects of this camera in any Samsung NX related tread nowadays.

I use a Canon c100 and 5D3, But the NX1 was so close with great 4K, great price, great firmware updates – and then it all stopped less than a year after I purchased the camera...

And now here comes the Canon MkIV  or the already in production Sony A7RII (both will/do cost twice as much as NX1 I realize so the Sony 6300 then). So for video, it's tough to embrace the NX1 like film cameras of the past that didn't have to keep up on the technology side like the cameras of today.

Obviously, thanks to Samsung, I'm on the fence about what to do with the NX1 at this point. But the community here is amazing and hacks are very interesting...

We were all kind of screwed by Samsung, especially in how deceiving they were about ending production, and I kind of get angry every time I use it now.

I wouldn't get too concerned with owners going off thread about this camera at this point is what I'm suggesting...

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Dear lucabutera,

I do appreciate the amount of work you've done, and decided to share with you my experience with speed boosters in order to prevent you from possible future poor sales.

 

I tried a lot of Metabones. The most important part of any SpeedBooster is how well it performs when a lens set to WideOpen aperture. In two words, all Metabones work acceptable. Some have better Chromatic Aberrations and Sharpness, some performs weaker in this regard.

Also there are number of China adapters on the market, calls Novoflex (if i'm correct with the brand). They call the product NOT a SpeedBooster, but a FocalReducer. They instruct users to Stop Down attached lenses a lot (at least at F5.6-F8.0) in order to get acceptable sharp image.

 

From my experience, i would never purchase a FocalReducer. We all need WideOpen aperture. And adapter should NOT weaken lens performance when the lens set to WideOpen aperture. That is why we use big lenses and heavy systems. We need Look, Fast apertures + Clear and Sharp images.

 

I decided to share my experience with you, because it could be unfair if your sales will be lost after such a tremendous amount of work you've done.

All the best.

Ilya

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PS: I'm against to have ANY variable ND filter inside because: 

1. We need a WideOpen aperture in a LowLight conditions first. 

2. All variable ND filters (and also Non variable grey filters)  i purchased (some were very expensive) ALL WEAKEN the final image. At least you are about to loose Great Colours and WB from NX1. This lesson i've learned after spent a lot of money on usless glass of this kind.

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1 hour ago, IKSLIM said:

PS: I'm against to have ANY variable ND filter inside because: 

1. We need a WideOpen aperture in a LowLight conditions first. 

2. All variable ND filters (and also Non variable grey filters)  i purchased (some were very expensive) ALL WEAKEN the final image. At least you are about to loose Great Colours and WB from NX1. This lesson i've learned after spent a lot of money on usless glass of this kind.

 

2 hours ago, IKSLIM said:

Dear lucabutera,

I do appreciate the amount of work you've done, and decided to share with you my experience with speed boosters in order to prevent you from possible future poor sales.

 

I tried a lot of Metabones. The most important part of any SpeedBooster is how well it performs when a lens set to WideOpen aperture. In two words, all Metabones work acceptable. Some have better Chromatic Aberrations and Sharpness, some performs weaker in this regard.

Also there are number of China adapters on the market, calls Novoflex (if i'm correct with the brand). They call the product NOT a SpeedBooster, but a FocalReducer. They instruct users to Stop Down attached lenses a lot (at least at F5.6-F8.0) in order to get acceptable sharp image.

 

From my experience, i would never purchase a FocalReducer. We all need WideOpen aperture. And adapter should NOT weaken lens performance when the lens set to WideOpen aperture. That is why we use big lenses and heavy systems. We need Look, Fast apertures + Clear and Sharp images.

 

I decided to share my experience with you, because it could be unfair if your sales will be lost after such a tremendous amount of work you've done.

All the best.

Ilya

Thanks Ikslim,
you're right, in your experience, but technically the "SpeedBooster" is a focal reducer.
I have always worked with full aperture lens, my tests are done all at f1.4 and maximum 2.8. it does not add distortion or loss of detail to the edges.
(From f4 forward, any bottle bottom works!).
I am a detail maniac and that's what the NX1 does best.
I have no intention of filters or iris in the adapter NXL, this is a stupid thing to do, also no one has figured large working miracles with Canon EF mount.
There is no space between the sensor and lenses, is all filled to the tenth of a millimeter from glasses!
My hope is that this adapter, can turn on a headlamp on Samsung NX camera system and resume production, so if sales go well, I'll invest my time and my money to create a smart adapter NX / EF.

Best

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2 hours ago, lucabutera said:


There is no space between the sensor and lenses, is all filled to the tenth of a millimeter from glasses!
My hope is that this adapter, can turn on a headlamp on Samsung NX camera system and resume production, so if sales go well, I'll invest my time and my money to create a smart adapter NX / EF.

Best

What is the diameter of the glass/relay lens that you are using?

 

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2 hours ago, lucabutera said:

 

Samyang announces a full frame 20mm 1.8. It with NXL it's a 24mm F1.4 WOW!!!!!! :-)))))

http://briansmith.com/samyang-announces-full-frame-20mm-f1-8-lenses/

i have Samyang FF 24mm f1.4 Nikon Mount - One of my Favorite!!! It is almost perfect, but has weak performance agains direct light when set to wide open: f1.4-f2.0. Probably new version be better as far as f1.8 concearned. Also i keep Samyang 16mm f2.0 (also Nikon mount) in my arsenal. Im confident to say : it has the best image from everything a have/had...

PS: I Ttied new Samyang 20mm f1.4 (crop version) and found it really bad berformer CA Distortion and Bockeh wise. Did not purchased..

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On 15. 8. 2016 at 11:17 AM, lucabutera said:

 

Samyang announces a full frame 20mm 1.8. It with NXL it's a 24mm F1.4 WOW!!!!!! :-)))))

http://briansmith.com/samyang-announces-full-frame-20mm-f1-8-lenses/

I dont get it, how can it be brighter than 1.8 on a FF?
If the adapter would have no crop factor at all, it would be just a 20mm 1.8?

By adding the booster, there is still the same amount of light entering the lens governed by the size of the front element, only the full amount reaches the sensor like it would on a full frame sensor.

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7 hours ago, carlic said:

I dont get it, how can it be brighter than 1.8 on a FF?
If the adapter would have no crop factor at all, it would be just a 20mm 1.8?

By adding the booster, there is still the same amount of light entering the lens governed by the size of the front element, only the full amount reaches the sensor like it would on a full frame sensor.

NXL increase 1 stop.

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9 hours ago, carlic said:

I dont get it, how can it be brighter than 1.8 on a FF?
If the adapter would have no crop factor at all, it would be just a 20mm 1.8?

By adding the booster, there is still the same amount of light entering the lens governed by the size of the front element, only the full amount reaches the sensor like it would on a full frame sensor.

It is correct but it is little bit more complicated:

If you attach f1.8 lens to APS-C camera it is not actually f1.8 but f2.8 ---> you have to convert it to equivalent 35mm aperture (https://www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/#fmt=10&ap=1.781797&fl=50&dst=10&u=us). So it is little bit lie from lens manufactures becuase you have to convert apertures to 35mm equiv. in same way as you convert focal lenght. So until now you are correct - speedbooster collects all light and no more that provides full frame lens - so f1.8 lens is f1.8 lens.

BUT - ISO numbers are not equivalent (maybe) to compensate less amount of light coming to sensor. One example - FF camera and APS-C camera - both has same ISO 800 but APS-C is noiser. Why? Becuase it is more sensitive than FF camera and actual ISO is higher (even both has set same ISO) - it behaves like ISO 1600 on FF. With same aperture and ISO should be shutter speed same on both cameras becuase less light of APS-C is compensate by more sensitive and actually higher ISO sensor (very often also noisier).

BUT with speedbooster you have more light than APS-C expects - sensor is still more sensitive than on FF camera so with same ISO and shutter speed is image more brighter (+1 stop) than it would be on FF camera.

It depends on your point of view - you can say: with same setting (ISO, shutter speed) I have faster lens but I think is better to say that with speedbooster is APS-C's ISO converted to ISO similar full frame camera - like for example 5DmkIII with ISO 1600 and NX1 with ISO 800.

This is how I understand it, but maybe it is not completely correct.

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