carlic

Does the packaging imply they are being shipped in the next days? Is mine perhaps also in there ?

Are you refering to the canon 50mm or the lens used in the booster? Is it ED type of glass? Is the first batch already shipped? When would it be shipped if I order from the second (429€) today?

I learn something every day. Thanks

Are you saying that certain filters can eliminate defects like fringing?

Thank you. I thought it was a bit brighter, but didnt think it could invoke that much fringing. Can you comment what kind of glass was used? Standard or low dispersion (ED) ?

Great job, thanks! As expected for a wide aperture it is soft with lots of chromattic abberations. For the sharpnes edge to edge, I meant a shot at the sharpest aperture like f8, you can even use a sharper lens if you have one. As for purple fringing I was suprised how much more promemant was with the booster (right), why do you think that is?

https://www.produzionidalbasso.com/project/turn-your-samsung-nx-camera-to-full-frame/

One with 50mm an aperture wide open and a subject in the foreground for like portrait work and bokeh representation. One shot with a lot of detail across the frame at its sharpest aperture, to judge edge to edge sharpness. One contrasty with hard light in the background and wide open to check for any possible additional chromatic aberrations. Like through the fine braches of trees against the sun or such. Any additional example is a good example really. Thanks!

I would love to order one, but from the lack of sample photos is really hard to jump the gun. Can you paste more comparisons raws or send one to someone for a review? Its hard to rely on early adopters to make and post tests. Thanks!

Luca can you make more sample pictures, with and without? Does the booster create any chromatic aberrations, like blue/green/purple fringing? Can you make a sample with very bright backlight? Like a shoot through the branches of trees towards the sun? Thanks!

Luca can you create an album on flickr and upload more pictures as reference? Im sure it would make even more people excited. Make it an open type and other users will be able to upload their samples as soon as they recieve it. What do you think?

Ok. So the possibility of a smart adapter will be considered if and when there is enough funding? And it is not in the developement at the moment? It would be great if you could buy a dumb adapter now, and later be upgraded to smart. It would help funding too, since the people would not be holding off for the possibilty of a smart one in the near future.

So in order to shoot Nikon glass, you should buy the 17$ adaptor for compensating the flange distance and aperture controll? But still you can't use modern canon lenses and have aperture controll?

Luca can you explain how is it possible for a single booster/adapter to fit all mounts? Lets set aside the mount geometry details itself, but how do you compensate the different flange-to-sensor distances that different manufacturers use in a single adapter? Or rather why is it (clearly) not an issue in the case of the NX-L?

Not sure it could be done. The "another" adapter would have to be only 2.5mm thick if I am not mistaken.

No to what exactly? Thanks

Luca I am starting to consider buying one. Since I also shoot with a canon 6D, I would like it to be compatible with canon lenses like the cheap 50/1.8. In order to do so, it would need it to be a smart booster for aperture and idealy AF control. How much longer do you think it would take to develope the smart version, and how much will it add to the price? I am planing a longer trip in december, will it be ready till then? Thanks

Luca can you show a bit more pictures of the actual product itself? We understand that they will probably not represent the final finish quallity of the product, but as a tech I enjoi the machining aspects and looks.

I apologize for possibly complicating things. Yes a booster adds about 1 stop of light, no other way about it. I just felt a need to clarifiy since I still see a lot of people (even my own friends) thinking they are better of with buying a crop camera + booster, than they would be with a FF camera to begin with. Just because a fast lens would transform into a superfast lens. Like a f1.4 would into a f0.95. The amount of light that enters the lens is not in any way actually artificialy boosted, just concentrated on a smaller sensor, that is all, rant over. Not completely sure if you are trying to say I am wrong or not, but if you are you are welcome to correct me. My knowledge in photograpfh is limited, so I could very well be wrong. Thanks

This is how I understand things too. So by claming we will get from 1.8 a 1.4 lens is not correct at all. It suggests we are getting a better deal than we would with a FF to begin with. Actually with a crop factor of 1.1 we will not even get 1.8, but rather something about f2.0. Still very good, but can be confusing for begginers. Tony has a great video on the subject: For comparing iso performance, I find this a very usefull tool. By this example it supports what you said. The manufacturers often fudge with the displayed iso numbers while in fact you are shooting in 1 or 2 stops higher iso. This is why people complain on some noise on GH4 even at the native iso of 200. https://***URL removed***/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr18=daylight&attr13_0=canon_eos5dmkiii&attr13_1=samsung_nx1&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr16_0=1600&attr16_1=800&normalization=compare&widget=13&x=0.6879033935123559&y=0.7132297456677982 But yes from a crop shooter perspective, the difference would be like going from a 1.8 to a 1.4 aperture when replacing an adaptor with a booster. Off course the lens should be a FF to begin with. The same could be done to a FF body by adding a booster (if it exists), but you would need even bigger lenses, like the ones used on pentax medium format cameras, am I right?

I dont get it, how can it be brighter than 1.8 on a FF? If the adapter would have no crop factor at all, it would be just a 20mm 1.8? By adding the booster, there is still the same amount of light entering the lens governed by the size of the front element, only the full amount reaches the sensor like it would on a full frame sensor.

Ahh I see, I was under the imppresion you are printing plastic parts. From the link provided I understand that you are printing metal. Didn't read into it since I dont speak Italian, but looks similar to laser sintering. So the main body of the booster is printed or the internall smaller parts? I am curious why did you decide to 3d print it, since cnc milling can reach under 0.01mm accuracy these days? Is the geometry that complex?

What is a "fast" adapter? In terms of focusing?

I dont think the price is too high. Will I get one? Probably not, I dont have that kind of money to spend, since I dont use my NX1 proffesionaly. What I am dissapointed to hear is that for the price you will be using 3D printed parts. I have had quite a few parts printed for personal projects with hobby and professional 3d printers and the quallity was always poor. The only situation that I would use printed parts is when the shape is very hard to make on a cnc machines and quallity and mechanical properties are not a priority. What is the actual focal reduction anyway? Why is it in your opinion that metabones declares it is immpossible to make a booster for NX?

So you are actually producing the glass on your own, and its not a repurposed speed boster glass from other brands? What is the glass made of? I hope it doesnt include thorium, zirconium or similar isotopes that a lot of fast vintage lenses had to combat aberations?