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Your ideal NX1 Settings


Geoff CB
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I absolutely love the look. How many steps do you add in your post to get to this result?

Theres a post here on page 6-8 (cant remember) where theres a full tutorial on how to get a similar look to this one, for these, I just changed the curves to make the image flatter, when I get home I can share full settings !

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Theres a post here on page 6-8 (cant remember) where theres a full tutorial on how to get a similar look to this one, for these, I just changed the curves to make the image flatter, when I get home I can share full settings !

n.m. found it on page 6. Those shots look amazing as well. Very impressed with what you're doing with the NX1. I am going to try your settings this weekend.

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Any of you guys using external recording noticing better compression ? Im not looking for a dramatic leap in image quality just trying to eliminate the h.265 macroblocking. Also for those with the external recorders have you tested the quality of the 1080p 60fps footage ? Im hoping the dramatically worse 60fps mode on the nx1 is just a result of poor compression. A shogun assassin is sounding good these days 

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Umm, that's a review of one filter. Taking that one review and saying that it also applies to ALL high end variable ND is a huge leap of logic

 

No, the logic is different: As variable ND filters work in a similar way as very strong polarizers, of course they inherit all their drawbacks as well. Regardless of how much "high-quality" they are. Since polarizers show uneven polarization with wide lenses, it´s quite clear that two filters stacked on each other can lead to quite bad results on wide lenses. This is due to physics and has nothing to do with the quality of the filters.

See i.e. here:

https://luminous-landscape.com/polarizers/
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/polarizing-filter-wideangle-lens
...and many more on the web.

So my personal conclusion is to get one variable ND filter for work with "normal" lenses and a set of fixed filters for wide shots. 

 

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Any of you guys using external recording noticing better compression ? Im not looking for a dramatic leap in image quality just trying to eliminate the h.265 macroblocking. Also for those with the external recorders have you tested the quality of the 1080p 60fps footage ? Im hoping the dramatically worse 60fps mode on the nx1 is just a result of poor compression. A shogun assassin is sounding good these days 

Have not tried 60fps, but I found that particularly in the shadows, reduced macroblocking is perhaps the most significant benefit to actually using an external recorder.

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Any of you guys using external recording noticing better compression ? Im not looking for a dramatic leap in image quality just trying to eliminate the h.265 macroblocking. Also for those with the external recorders have you tested the quality of the 1080p 60fps footage ? Im hoping the dramatically worse 60fps mode on the nx1 is just a result of poor compression. A shogun assassin is sounding good these days 

I'll shoot something for you tomorrow. 

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No, the logic is different: As variable ND filters work in a similar way as very strong polarizers, of course they inherit all their drawbacks as well. Regardless of how much "high-quality" they are. Since polarizers show uneven polarization with wide lenses, it´s quite clear that two filters stacked on each other can lead to quite bad results on wide lenses. This is due to physics and has nothing to do with the quality of the filters.

See i.e. here:

https://luminous-landscape.com/polarizers/
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/polarizing-filter-wideangle-lens
...and many more on the web.

So my personal conclusion is to get one variable ND filter for work with "normal" lenses and a set of fixed filters for wide shots. 

 

I think that's the reason those Fotodiox EF-NX adapter with internal ND filter may be more desired than external variable ND.

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let me know whenever you test the 60p bro I really need to know

here are two scenes at 60p

normal gamma, -5 contrast, -10 sharpness. 16-50S lens clean (no filters)

first detail (detail on bush, as well as how the out-of-focus bit looks i.e banding)

int:
fnx1_int_detail.thumb.jpg.447204165e29e8
ext:
fnx1_ext_detail.thumb.jpg.999f00d9d0f3a5
int 200% crop:
nx1_int_detail_crop.thumb.jpg.5585feec97
ext 200% crop:
nx1_ext_detail_crop.thumb.jpg.6be36a0036

as a still image, the full res images appear pretty similar, with the ext appearing to be slightly sharper. go to the cropped images, and we can see why. blocks of pixels around the edges of the bush are a bit larger/more noticable, and make the bush appear just a bit softer, and give the out-of-focus area a bit of banding.

here is a shot that can give us a good idea of the macro blocking that tens to occur in shadows:

int:
f_nx1_int_hs.thumb.jpg.f9adfa8086a4a9f01
ext:
f_nx1_ext_hs.thumb.jpg.c6c85143a801a0af6
int 200% crop:
nx1_int_hs_crop.thumb.jpg.dbeb1eb5316d71
ext 200% crop:
nx1_ext_hs_crop.thumb.jpg.eb496f21154f40

externally and internally results are similar to before, you can notice more macro blocking in the shadows on the internally recorded image, and there is a very, very slight edge to the external image in highlight recovery (again the jpeg would suggest different, and i'm not sure why the export crushes the highlights like that, but check the original files).

*HOWEVER*

look at the external image crop... in the shadows... there appears to be a very fine fixed grid pattern (when they're bumped up significantly). it is very odd. now, you probably shouldn't expect to use any detail that's this heavy in the shadows (+150 via lumetri), but even so I'm not sure this grid pattern is much preferable to the heavy macroblocking of the internal image.

as a still image, i'd actually prefer the internal image, however with motion the macro blocking becomes very noticeable and the external seems more like noise.

ultimately, in motion, i find the external image to be a bit better, but if it's better enough to warrant an extra 1200-2000 (depending on recorder) is up to you.

full files:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwO55ILG1OL-YnNqbGJDejhIcjQ&usp=sharing

 

 

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just as a bit of reference. when i checked out some 4k shogun stuff and punch in 800% i can just begin to see the formation of that grid pattern again.

I've seen that grid in raw stills and it's annoying ! Converting to DNG has gotten rid of it though. Strange. Interesting results with the external recorder I will download the file to  see how it looks in motion

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I've seen that grid in raw stills and it's annoying ! Converting to DNG has gotten rid of it though. Strange. Interesting results with the external recorder I will download the file to  see how it looks in motion

you know, at first I was annoyed, and if I shot in 1080 often I'd really hate it, but it actually helps give the image an organic look when you're zoomed out, as it goes across different textures and luminance levels... But at 1080 maybe not a great feature.

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you know, at first I was annoyed, and if I shot in 1080 often I'd really hate it, but it actually helps give the image an organic look when you're zoomed out, as it goes across different textures and luminance levels... But at 1080 maybe not a great feature.

it seems that the 1080 on this camera is severely crippled. I really think it was an afterthought to be honest. Seems they were more focused on getting the sharpest 4k footage downscaling for 6.5k and they totally forgot how that would affect the 1080 image. The macroblocking is completely unacceptable. At first we could blame it on the codec but your test just put an end to that myth ! 

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I dont have the 16-50S, way out of my budget unfortunatelly, these were all with Samyang 24mm f1.4 and Samyang 14mm f2.8. All of them are videoframes, even though the last ones dont have the black bars, thats because I forgot to add them.

Try to buy the "part" for $650 :) 

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