PannySVHS

On 12.7.2016 at 6:33 AM, John Matthews said:

Concerning white balance and other settings, I've been using Sunny (A3G3) and Tungsten(A3G3), depending on the project. I'm of the school of thought to maintain consistency and just stick with it, letting colors fall where they may. @Inazuma came up with A3G3. The reason for my using it was due to the blue channel dipping into the 0%-5%. Panasonic's implementation of the 8-bit codec is excellent, but there just isn't much information in that range because it (correctly) put most of the information in the 5%-95% range. The same thing happens at the 95%-100%. @jase is using a Tiffen filter to lower the contrast even further... resulting in a nice effect too. Finally, I think it's almost a toss-up between Standard or Natural, as long as everything is set at -5, the channels will be clean. I gave Natural a slight edge though.

Hallo John!

loving your findings. Went for the A3G3 and A3M9, but on my G6, outside in the late afternoon sun with WB at 7200 Kelvin, shot at Natural all -2.

The image out of cam looked so lala. I don´t know if the Canon FDs "attract" IR polution. The 28mm definately has not its strengths in strong sunlight compared

to the 20mm 1.7 Pana Lumix lens. Paired the FD with a China Booster.

But what amazed me was what kind of color I got from grading the footage, as always with my G6 I am amazed by the "hidden" color in that 24Mbit codec.

Curiosity enough, I shot 50fps for slomo, so only 28Mbits for twice the frames per second. Still, codec holds up amazingly well.

So can you explain your reasoning behind the A3G3 a little bit more. I don´t think I completely understood the technical aspects you were explaining.

By the way, grade is from the 28Mbits for 50p, so almost half of the 24p bitrate per frame!

Thanks a lot for your awesome contributions!

1 hour ago, sanveer said:

The 20mm f1.7 (i and ii) is a very strange lens. Its focus speed is quite slow, it is quite noisy, and it has one more curious issue that I suddenly cannot recollect. Avoid it, if its Tiny Size is what is attracting you. It is reasonably sharp, though.

The 20mm is a super high resolving lens, maybe 3rd place or better of the Panasonic Leica lenses, after the 25mm 1.4 and 42.5mm 1.2.

Some curiosity, it seems to be 1/3 EV brighter than it´s 1.7 Fstop. So it´s a super compact, high quality bright lens with slow autofocus for

photo and not useable AF for video. I myself think about the 15mm 1.7 Panny Leica. On the 4K crop it would give me a classic moderate/normal wideangle FOV for video with very fast AF.

12 hours ago, fuzzynormal said:

Yeah, but I think maybe the fact that the gx85 doesn't moire as much as the EM5II makes it appear a bit "sharper" in whole. 

 

Parts of the test scene seem in favor for the Olympus, others for the GX85. Moire is absent, which is great of course.

The other Panny cams have higher 1080p resolution than GX85 though. So maybe better 1080 60p on a G7 then.

Dpreview tested 1080p resolution to be softer than Oly EM5 II and much softer than the other Panny cams.

Would like that not to be the case and prefer dpreview having done a mistake:)

http://***URL removed***/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr29_0=panasonic_dmcgx85&attr29_1=panasonic_dmclx100&attr72_0=1080&attr72_1=1080&normalization=full&widget=369&x=0.5043620501635768&y=-0.180752453653217

On 6.7.2016 at 2:43 AM, mercer said:

Beautiful. I liked this a lot!!! Such rich colors. What cameras did you use?

Hey Mercer,

thanks a lot! Used two Mini DV cams with interlaced SD resolution: Canon XL1 and Panasonic DX1.

The two other cams were Panasonic G6 and Canon 70D.

HD footage was cropped at the sides to 4:3 ratio. Edited and graded in Davinci.

11 hours ago, sanveer said:

Can any owner/ use say whether the G7 exhibits shutter shock? 

Shutter shock happens with the mechanical shutter within the range of 125-250 shutters. It is absent when using the electronic shutter.

 GX8 and GX85 seem to be the first Lumix cameras not to exhibit this unwanted feature when in mechanical shutter mode.

5 hours ago, Rudolf said:

Now I got it and I agree! If I get you right you are trying to create an amateurish yesterdays lofi look. Which some people could remind on small gauge film. This approach is often used for documentaries or musicclips I think. And in 20 years you are maybe after that feeling of the beginning of the century with its iphone footage in funny aspect ratio...

Well, talk about amateurish look and apect ratio. Film friends of mine and I did a 4 cams challenge, 2 DV camcorders and 2 HD hybrids in the mix, 4 to 3 ratio. Was fun to do without planning other than having four people going crazy on our actress and filming like little devils. Mixing SD and HD cams wasn´t exactely my idea, neither having four cameras, but I decided to agree on it and I´m happy we did it that way. So old school look is not only cool for the look but also for the way how to approach filming. Really loved the approch of our lowfi project. In the end I had 1hour of footage at my hands to sculpt what became 3min in the final result. Matching the cams and grading was fun too. The beautiful autumn day helped the colors quiet a bit.

6 hours ago, John Matthews said:

Another review. This one by Steve Huff... I like his not-so-scientific views on cameras and handling.

Haha, John, this is cool. Steve Huff, one of the first ambassadors of m43. Used to stop by his blog every day. Great guy! Also really dig his posts from the beginning of his place, beautifully written pieces!

Oh, shoot, seems like Steve has changed his site to smartphone ratio. Now it´s embedded within two columns, making it narrower to read.

Hallo Ed,

your video is shot very nice, with a beautiful mood and with a "filmic" look.

The word filmic is getting kinda odd to use though, like lacking expressions to describe something not looking tv-videoish:)

One question: your DVX100 footage, which you posted a few months or so ago, looked rather like 720p.

For your video above, I would imagine that beautiful 3CCD 480p would have more resolution like your DVX video.

cheers

Hey Lenny,

just search for m43 or mft and fd. Instead of fd you can pick any other mount you wish, like k-mount, ef-mount, etc.

Why not just using the kitzoom at its 14mm for green screening?

If you want a lens mith mechanical aperture you could buy a 20mm cosina lens in FD mount for around 100 to 150 USD plus

a China Speedbooster for FD to mft/m43 mount of your camera for 100 USD, so about 200 to 250 USD in sum.

The speedbooster has a factor of 0.7, which makes the 20mm a 14mm lens.

Another route would be a 28mm Canon FD for 20 to 30 USD, a dummy mft to FD adapter for 15 and a 0.7 wideangle adapter.

I just don´t know, if there a good ones outthere without the DIY effort, which Fritze Pierre was writing about in his awesome post

for another thread:

cheers

On 24.6.2016 at 1:21 AM, andy lee said:

ps - if you are shooting micro 4/3s just stick your 28mm  on a Metabones speedbooster that gives you x0.7 on the back of the lens - saves adding a front wide adaptor which are optically inferior

 

Hallo Andy,

Thank you for your answer. I´m enjoying my FD lenses on a Chinabooster and just bought a Tokina 28-85 F4, one of your many great recommendations!

About the wide angle adapter from century optics, Fritz Pierre posted an awesome DIY, how to adapt the Century Optics to our lenses. Do you know if there are any

century optics apdapters outthere with a screwmount rather than with a mount for the SonyFX1?

Wow, Fritz, this is an awesome post of yours, again, fantastic effort. Thank you very much!

To the cheap equipment filmmakers it is great to have Panny 4K at hand. To the cinema pros their high end 2K, 4K+ Arris, Reds etc are fantastic.

1 hour ago, Sekhar said:

Yes, and upscaling has improved a lot now as well. I have a Sony 70" XBR 4K TV and a Marantz receiver, both of which upscale to 4K really well. Broadcast HD (including the 720p ones) looks great, as do even some of the DVDs (remember those, with 480p?) with the scaling. I understand people are also increasingly using 4K TVs as monitors (I don't, yet).

So for fun I uploaded a screenshot of footage shot with my G6 uprezzed from HD to UHD.

Bad shooting conditions for image quality and resolution: very low light setting, had only one 500W photolamp to bounce on a golden sheet,

China Speedbooster and Canon 28mm wide open at F2.8 involved, at 1600ISO, so all image quality suckers involved, plenty work in post as well:)

But to me it seems appealing enough to make a 8x10 (20x30cm) print from it.

So great consumer 4K is fantastic for us who go the cheap route of nice HD.

24 minutes ago, kidzrevil said:

Contax Zeiss 28mm f2 for sure

What a Bourgeouis remark:) Just kidding. That babe is rather on the pricey side. Bought a Canon FD 20mm, that was 220 USD and it´s enjoying its

prestine like brand new condition rather than being used in the rough run n gun shooting style field:)

How long is the focus throw on that beauty all the way round and between 9ft and infinity?

cheers

BTW love the footage you did with that infamous RX10ii 1 or 1.5 stops brighter, say F1.8 from 28mm to 90mm FF equivalent seems a great

idea of yours.

Hey Jason, I think 4K is good for some of us who need a nice HD image with consumer equipment. For Pros great Arri 2K, for indies Digi Bolex 2K is nicer than

4K from Panny and Sony consumer cams. But that Panny and Sony and Samsung 4K ist just so nice for us to shoot it with that affordable tech.

Though the Big Screen shows every single digital flaw to the image, but digital projection on 20 feet wide screens looks nice with consumer 4k downscaled HD.

oh yeah, simple as that, paying attention to the infinity symbol on the monitor!! silly me Thanks a lot, Seb!

Wow, cool. How to you put the LX100 lens on infinity, is there a menu option for it? Sorry if my question might sound silly to you:)

Hello Fritz Pierre!

Thank you for your awesome post. Really great information! What do you mean by "you have to build your mount up sufficiently to clear the rear elemant"?

Do you mean to adjust the distance between adapter and lens lens adequately it might take more than on filterring?

cheers

20 hours ago, Fritz Pierre said:

"you have to build your mount up sufficiently to clear the rear elemant"?

On 29.5.2016 at 0:37 AM, Fritz Pierre said:

The Schneider adapter is 0.7 x...no distortion and 30 percent wider...don't know the full frame answer though... use S35

.

Hey Fritz,

would you have a link to the Schneider? There are so many Schneiders out there (un:)fortunately.

cheers and thanks

0.7 seems ideal, regarding quality and wide angle effect.

4 hours ago, lenny87 said:

Can somebody tell me if the 422 prores recorded with the atomos Ninja Assasin is 8bit or 10bit ?

 

Hey Lenny!

Output would be 8bit. The 4K and 1080 24p codec is on the G7 is very good. One main advantage with external recording to an Atomos would be Prores- a codec which is easier on your editing system. Other than that you got a very, very nice camera in your hands.

Speedbooster is giving lenses about the same field of view of Super 35mm, the main film standard, so of cameras as FS7, C100/300/500, etc.

They make the field of view of a lens a little bit wider on your Panny G7 or any other M43 camera, such as GH4, GH3, GF1, E-PL1..:)

These Speedboosters exist for different lens mounts, so you can adapt lenses with Pentax K-mount, M42, Nikon F-mount, Canon EF mount, etc.

You can adapt these lenses with ordinary adapters as well. Speedboosters, additionally, just give you a slight boost in field of view and about 1 Fstop of light gathering/ effecitively sensitivity.

Your kit lens is sharp, but colors are rather on the video side, more broadcast look than Hollywood:), hard to fix in post but possible.

Manual focus is not so nice, because it´s not mechanical.

So my suggestion would be: get an ordinary adapter for Canon FD on m43 mount for about 15USD/EU, plus an 28mm F2.8 in Canon FD mount

from Canon (about 20 to 40 USD), Sigma or Tokina or Vivitar or Kiron (cheaper alternatives). Nice filmic combo to produce fantastic results!

Plus Canon FD 50mm 1.8 for 15 to 30 USD.

There are so many lens tips on this forum from Andy Lee and other guys. But for a start my suggestions would

be fine. Avoid the GAS, Gear acquistion syndrome and keep it simple for the beginning.:)

24mm option would be about 40 to 100 EUR:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIGMA-SUPER-WIDE-II-24mm-f-2-8-CANON-FD-MOUNT-LENS-W-HOOD-/322114601538?hash=item4aff86c242:g:-80AAOSwOVpXWDpq

cheers

Awesome footage, Seb! Always enjoy the fact how much you get out of the actual motifs by skillful approach of filming, and not so much

fixing it in post. Nice color and color profile coming from your hands!

So how does the focussing work, you need to put the lens on infinity and then focus with the SLR Finder?

cheers

Tupp, nice suggestion. Thanks! Topic closed:)

Mattias, you sound compellingly convincing, beautiful patina..:)

I don´t wanna let it go because of one convincing argument just yet:)

Are there ways with follow focussing and the ruthless focus pullers to go easy on the paint and housing in general?

Also, I got the very heavy Tokina F4 zoom, it bends my mount. Any good ideas for rigging that bad boy up, being easy on the mount?

cheers

I´d say, Sony RX10ii