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Canon XC10 4K camcorder


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They have been using it for quite some time with great results. Definetelly shows a segment where the camera is great. This is mainly a "film maker" forum. But we sometimes seem to forget that no

I am slowly getting round to finishing my mammoth XC10 review.... expect it this week!

Still haven't had time to shoot anything for more than 30 min. Hopefully next week. So I took it for a quick run when I went to the store. Wanted to see how the XC10 worked under really bright condit

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12 minutes ago, Mattias Burling said:

I always ETTR C-log. Works great for me and makes the workflow fast.

Did you use 100% zebras? I haven't used the cam in a few weeks, but when I first bought it, the 100% zebras seemed really difficult to pull back the highlights, so I switched to the 70% zebras and thought that worked fairly well... But I have read that others are using 100%. 

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9 minutes ago, mercer said:

Did you use 100% zebras? I haven't used the cam in a few weeks, but when I first bought it, the 100% zebras seemed really difficult to pull back the highlights, so I switched to the 70% zebras and thought that worked fairly well... But I have read that others are using 100%. 

Yes, 100%. Anything with zebra is blown and anything without is good. I dont have any issues recovering highlights.

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But I have read that others are using 100%. 

Apparently the flavour of c log in the XC10 puts a dull white at around 65 IRE, so you may find your highlights easier to recover if you set your zebras to 70%, and keep whiteish elements just looking like they're clipping.

For myself, I'm currently trying a different, simpler approach, which is to expose so that the exposure meter shows around 1 stop over. I haven't had an opportunity to grade anything shot this way yet, but the ungraded files look to have a good tonal range. I'll post some still grabs once I've had a chance to look more closely and play with them.

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1 hour ago, Kubrickian said:

If you can't pull back the highlights check your LUT. I've noticed some LUTs will blow them out and there's nothing you can do with the curve to bring it back. When I re-grade the shot from scratch in colorista the highlights look great. 

Honestly, part of the issue is probably me... I really need to spend the time and watch some tutorials on correcting and grading. I just get so excited to mess with the clips, I never get around to it... So I am probably going about it all wrong.

Thanks for the tips!!!

53 minutes ago, Tim Sewell said:

Apparently the flavour of c log in the XC10 puts a dull white at around 65 IRE, so you may find your highlights easier to recover if you set your zebras to 70%, and keep whiteish elements just looking like they're clipping.

For myself, I'm currently trying a different, simpler approach, which is to expose so that the exposure meter shows around 1 stop over. I haven't had an opportunity to grade anything shot this way yet, but the ungraded files look to have a good tonal range. I'll post some still grabs once I've had a chance to look more closely and play with them.

That's how I used to expose with my old Canon's and then when I moved to Panasonics I went with zebras... But then went back to meter exposure... I would usually underexpose by a stop though... But with c-log I understand you want to expose for your highlights, so I will definitely give this method a try. Thanks. 

1 hour ago, hyalinejim said:

I set the zebras to 100. If you see them, it's blown 100%. If you set them to 70 parts of the image might be blown, or might not.

If you've exposed without clipping but you still get blown highlights when applying a lut, pull down the highs with curves or levels or something before the lut.

Interesting, I never thought about that with the 70% zebra setting... Great point!!!

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A Letter to Canon

Hi Canon,

Since you've already provided a firmware update for the XC10 I'm assuming you're open to feedback that will seriously improve the camera's image quality and handling. It's a good camera, but it could be great. Here are three major flaws and how to correct them

PROBLEM 1: Image softening at high ISOs and ghosting artifacts.

When the ISO is increased beyond 3200 resolution drops due to in-camera noise reduction. And at all ISOs, ghosting artifacts are visible when high contrast areas are in motion. In the manual it states that ghosting may become visible when certain Image Stabilisation modes are used. However, my tests show that ghosting artifacts exist equally across all IS modes, and even when IS is switched off entirely. The effect increases with ISO which leads me to believe it is a kind of temporal noise reduction which seriously undermines the image and the camera's ability to be used as a "run and gun" hand-held camera.

SOLUTION: Allow the user the option of disabling noise reduction in-camera. Many users who are familiar with post production processes will be comfortable performing their own noise reduction to taste, thus preserving image detail and preventing motion ghosting.

PROBLEM 2: Long throw zoom ring. In manual focus mode, the zoom ring usually has too long a throw, particularly at the telephoto end. At the wide end, focus throw is normal. However at longer focal lengths it takes too long to focus. To do a focus pull from 1 meter to infinity takes many rotations of the zoom ring, farther than the human wrist is capable of turning in a single motion. This slows down manual focus to an unusable level, and introduces unnecessary camera shake when shooting handheld.

SOLUTION: Change the manual focus speed so that all focal lengths focus as quickly and easily as at the wide setting. Currently there are 3 manual focus speed settings, but the fast setting is still far too slow.

PROBLEM 3: Physical exposure controls Full exposure control is accessible from the touch screen menu. However, when shooting handheld it's not convenient to access the touch screen menu while shooting. The joystick control introduces camera shake when pressed and is prone to directional error as it's so small.

SOLUTION: Map more of the exposure controls to the dial wheel and buttons. For example: 1. Assign one of buttons 1, 2, or 3 to Exposure Lock 2. Enable Exposure Compensation on the dial wheel 3. Enable one of buttons 1, 2 or 3 to shift the function of the dial wheel in Manual mode, in the same way that aperture is controlled on the EOS Rebel cameras. Implementing these suggestions would seriously improve the image quality and handheld usability of the XC10. Please consider including them in a firmware upgrade.

[End of Letter to Canon]

That all seems fairly straightforward and reasonable doesn't it? Let them hear your voice:

http://global.canon/en/support/index.html

XC10 is under Camcorders > Cinema EOS

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Does anyone have a work around for the ghosting / motion artifact yet ? It like the same frame plays twice 

so far the camera is impressive and i am learning to live with variable apeture but that ghosting effect is annoying.  I dont even want to know how that will affect noise reduction software. 

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5 minutes ago, mercer said:

I haven't noticed it. Are there any consistencies as to when you've seen it occur?

I always catch it at high iso's 3200-4000 or at slow shutter speeds. Combine both and you might as well delete the footage

I haven't been home to grade the footage yet but hopefully it holds up well and I can at least mask some of these defects cause I am not trying to get yet another camera for video

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15 minutes ago, kidzrevil said:

I always catch it at high iso's 3200-4000 or at slow shutter speeds. Combine both and you might as well delete the footage

I haven't been home to grade the footage yet but hopefully it holds up well and I can at least mask some of these defects cause I am not trying to get yet another camera for video

Gotcha. Then that's probably why I haven't seen it. I usually keep my ISO at 500 and use the 180 degree shutter.

Other than the ghosting, now that you've had the camera for a little while... What are your thoughts?

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@mercer LOVE the ergonomics of that handle! The rotating handle plus the image stabilizing has me getting shots from angles that Were impossible to do with my previous dslr's. The autofocus works really good, the skin tones are great and the clarity is pretty good in great lighting. CLOG is really useful but im testing to see if Wide DR is better. Overall I think the camera can be used as a primary camera for video. I prefer the look of super 16 so it works for me so far...

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