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Andrew Reid

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17 hours ago, leslie said:

the lens looks immaculate, got a hand written note and a piece of origami no idea how it works or what it does but its the thought that counts ?


I've recently ordered a bunch of lenses, mostly from Japan, and the main seller I bought from sends these:


I don't know what chazuke is yet, but each packet has a different picture on it (this one is the fish) so it will be fun to find out.  The instructions are photocopied, but they're obviously drawn by hand, which isn't something you'd get from many other countries!

3 hours ago, KitaCam said:

Thanks. No issue at all with Super 35mm, just wanted as wide and as fast (F1.4 (real?) vs. F1.8 (real?)) as reasonably affordably possible with perhaps the ability (hence my thinking twice about the 18-35 which is for DX/Super 35mm) to mount on a stabilised full frame mirrorless (potentially canon, panasonic or otherwise) further down the line.

How about just buy the 18-35 second hand and then when/if you go full-frame just sell it again.  This is a classic lens and it should hold its value relatively well, or at least won't cost much if you think of the loss as a kind of rental fee :)

I've done this too.  I wasn't sure about my 700D and for a while was wondering about Magic Lantern and so I just bought one to try, and now that I'm not really going to use it I'll probably sell it again.

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11 hours ago, KitaCam said:

Can I ask, would I be making some fundamental ballsup by thinking that mounting a (full frame) Sigma 20mm F1.4 on the C200 would be a sane idea? Manual focus (most of the time though autofocus will probably work ok) and no stabilisation, but that F1.4 is enticing and there's plenty of excellent footage with the unstabilised Sigma F1.8 18-35 out there. Of course the C200 has internal ND's so that bypasses the bulbous front element filter issue. I really want wide, perhaps that is not wide enough...

In terms of focal lengths, having the 20mm lens on the C200 (with it's 1.74x crop factor when shooting 4K) would be the same field-of-view as a 35mm lens, which is a nice length.

I shoot home videos and travel films and the occasional project for a friend and these mainly consist of landscapes, environmental portraits, and close-ups when people are close by (like at a table).  I'd been shooting with the normal 24-80 / 80-400 range of my zooms and my phone and came to the realisation that 24mm isn't wide enough, and also not long enough, so when I changed camera systems to the GH5 and had to start a lens collection from scratch I decided to avoid 24mm altogether.

I now have these 35mm equivalents:

  • 16mm f5.6 (great for landscapes, architecture, and that Wow factor of a wide lens)
  • 35mm f1.4 (this is my main lens, it works for people, environmental detail shots, or general environment shots)
  • 116mm f4 (this was my only longer lens and I found it to be a bit too long, so I'm looking for a replacement around 80mm)

I'm also looking for a good sports lens in the 270-400mm equivalent range.

Although I can use the ETC mode to get a 1.4x digital crop which makes the 16mm a 24mm equivalent I never found myself doing that, I'd change to the 16mm only if there was something really Wow and then just change back to the 35mm 1.4 without thinking about it as that's my default lens.   The same crop mode turns the 35mm into a 50mm and I did use this quite a bit.  When I have the GH5 being stored at home I always have it charged, with memory card in it and ready to go so that when something interesting happens I can run and grab it and capture the moment.  For this reason I always store it with the 35mm lens on it because that's such a good all-around lens for me.

It's good to really pay attention to what you're shooting and understand what focal lengths work for you.  Also pay attention to the aperture - having fast lenses is great but if you never open them up that much, or those shots never make the final edit, then you might be better off with a slower but more flexible zoom.

Everyone is going to have their own preferences that suit their style.  Just as I skip 24mm the next person might only ever use that length and might love it.

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20 minutes ago, mercer said:

On your Leica camera? I’m not too good-like with riddles...

Yes, the SL

This one is with the T, which again should have a "Panasonic Inside" sticker on it. Interesting really that Panasonic haven't produced their own branded version of it as with it being an APS-C with an L mount it might actually find a few friends. Perhaps they will further down the line.

The lens here is all Leica's own work though, an M mount 90mm Summicron.



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7 hours ago, kye said:

In terms of focal lengths, having the 20mm lens on the C200 (with it's 1.74x crop factor when shooting 4K) would be the same field-of-view as a 35mm lens, which is a nice length.

The C200 has a Super 35mm sensor... the crop factor is 1.4-1.5x. So the 20mm would technically have a FOV around 28-30mm.

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17 minutes ago, mercer said:

The C200 has a Super 35mm sensor... the crop factor is 1.4-1.5x. So the 20mm would technically have a FOV around 28-30mm.

You're right.  I just found the C200 review I got that from and discovered I read it wrong.  My bad ???

That makes it even more of a general purpose lens I guess, but my point was that my default is 35mm so it's all relative to how you shoot and what you like to see :)

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I want a good set of manual focus glass. Currently have a set of Minoltas; 24mm 2.8, 35mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, and 135mm 2.8

I really want to get a speedbooster to make full use of them but my go to focal reducers Lens Turbo doesn't make one. That leaves me with Metabones, which is $400, unsure if its worth it.

I am debating selling it all and getting a Nikon 35mm 1.4, 105mm 2.5 or 85mm f2, plus a cheap lens turbo speedbooster. Than I'd have the option of using with or without the focal reducer to get different FOV. 50mm lenses are cheap but I don't really like the focal length. Its either too long or too short. 

This is definitely more of a passion move as for practical purposes super fast glass isn't very useful. Accurately focusing the 50mm 1.4 is difficult if not practically worthless for live events, unless the subject isn't moving. I was thinking about getting a 58mm 1.2, but imagine focusing that with a speedbooster lol. Buying glass is fun though. May just keep all my minolta glass and get the Nikon glass as well.

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