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Panasonic S5 User Experience


herein2020
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14 hours ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks for the feedback. I am surprised about that. You are using the MC-21 adapter, right?

Or are you using the fotodiox or commlite adapter?

MC-21,  but I do have one correction, my lens is the EF-S 10-22mm  not the EF-S 10-18mm. My  EF-S Sigma 18-35mm does work and I have one other crop sensor lens (can't remember the details on it) but that one worked as well. 

I only have 3 EF-S lenses but out of the 3, only the EF-S 10-22 did not work. Below is a picture of the problem with the EF-S 10-22mm mounted on the MC-21 with the S5. This is with the 10-22mm zoomed all the way in to 22mm. at the 10mm end it is way worse.

_1000211.thumb.JPG.4acb5cbafc482d1ab51ceeca5b3fbde1.JPG

 

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17 hours ago, herein2020 said:

MC-21,  but I do have one correction, my lens is the EF-S 10-22mm  not the EF-S 10-18mm. My  EF-S Sigma 18-35mm does work and I have one other crop sensor lens (can't remember the details on it) but that one worked as well. 

I only have 3 EF-S lenses but out of the 3, only the EF-S 10-22 did not work. Below is a picture of the problem with the EF-S 10-22mm mounted on the MC-21 with the S5. This is with the 10-22mm zoomed all the way in to 22mm. at the 10mm end it is way worse.

_1000211.thumb.JPG.4acb5cbafc482d1ab51ceeca5b3fbde1.JPG

 

Thanks so much for the photo. Zoinks!!! So it looks like using the EF-S 10-22 on an MC-21 does not automatically switch the S5 in to aps-c mode the way it does with the EF-S 10-18. 

I am surprised though that there is so much vignette still after you zoom in. I say that because the Tamron 10-24 (another crop sensor lens) has only slight vignette once zoomed in to around 16mm. (Because it is made by Tamron, the MC-21 doesn't automatically go in to crop mode). 

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Yes Panasonic S5 + MC-21 works with Canon EF-S 10-18mm and switches automatically to APS-C mode. Auto focus and everything else works. Unfortunately you can't switch manually to Full Frame mode. It is well known fact that Canon EF-S 10-18mm covers full frame from 14 to 18 mm.  Corners are far from perfect on full frame, but for video we cut them anyway. Mine however is with modified mount, it can also be mounted on a full frame Canon body. Not sure if the original APS-C mount which protrudes out will be able to mount on MC-21.

It looks camera Panasonic S5 + MC-21 doesn't recognize EF-S 10-22 as APS-C lens and thinks it is Full Frame lens. Well then switch to APS-C mode manually (should be possible) and vignette will disappear.

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11 hours ago, stephen said:

Yes Panasonic S5 + MC-21 works with Canon EF-S 10-18mm and switches automatically to APS-C mode. Auto focus and everything else works. Unfortunately you can't switch manually to Full Frame mode. It is well known fact that Canon EF-S 10-18mm covers full frame from 14 to 18 mm.  Corners are far from perfect on full frame, but for video we cut them anyway. Mine however is with modified mount, it can also be mounted on a full frame Canon body. Not sure if the original APS-C mount which protrudes out will be able to mount on MC-21.

It looks camera Panasonic S5 + MC-21 doesn't recognize EF-S 10-22 as APS-C lens and thinks it is Full Frame lens. Well then switch to APS-C mode manually (should be possible) and vignette will disappear.

Thank you for ithe input, @stephen

Regarding the EF-S 10-18mm lens. Can you tell if you are able to use the LENS stabilization for three axis stabilization and the body's IBIS for the other two? 

Meaning, when you turn on stabilization, is the lens stabilization working, too? Or is it JUST the body's IBIS that is working?

I ask because ultrawide angle lenses tend to have corner warping if using JUST the camera body's IBIS (when on a gimbal). 

But if the camera is using BOTH the stabilization from the lens and then two-axis stabilization from the body, then the warping is reduced.

(I have seen a lot of vlogs of people using the 20-60mm lens - which doesn't have stabilization - and the corner warping is really annoying.)

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@Mark  Panasonic S5  (+ MC-21) clearly uses both in body and lens stabilization. That's what it says in the menu - lens stabilization for up / down left / right movements and in body stabilization for body roll. When I switch lens stabilization off from the switch on the lens on LCD screen symbol for stabilization turns off. At 10mm and even 18mm video looks super smooth don't see warping in the corners.

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On 11/21/2021 at 3:07 AM, stephen said:

Yes Panasonic S5 + MC-21 works with Canon EF-S 10-18mm and switches automatically to APS-C mode. Auto focus and everything else works. Unfortunately you can't switch manually to Full Frame mode. It is well known fact that Canon EF-S 10-18mm covers full frame from 14 to 18 mm.  Corners are far from perfect on full frame, but for video we cut them anyway. Mine however is with modified mount, it can also be mounted on a full frame Canon body. Not sure if the original APS-C mount which protrudes out will be able to mount on MC-21.

It looks camera Panasonic S5 + MC-21 doesn't recognize EF-S 10-22 as APS-C lens and thinks it is Full Frame lens. Well then switch to APS-C mode manually (should be possible) and vignette will disappear.

The image that you saw was with the S5 in APS-C mode.   This is for photography only, for video when shooting in 4K and in APS-C mode the barrel disappears as it should. My original plan was to use the EF-S 10-22mm for both real estate photography and video on the S5, but the APS-C mode only works for video apparently.  For photography, even if you pick APS-C mode it seems to use the full sensor even when shooting JPGs.

That makes sense that there is an optical difference between the 10-22mm and the 10-18mm. Any crop sensor lens that can cover a FF sensor won't have these problems.

21 hours ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thank you for ithe input, @stephen

Regarding the EF-S 10-18mm lens. Can you tell if you are able to use the LENS stabilization for three axis stabilization and the body's IBIS for the other two? 

Meaning, when you turn on stabilization, is the lens stabilization working, too? Or is it JUST the body's IBIS that is working?

I ask because ultrawide angle lenses tend to have corner warping if using JUST the camera body's IBIS (when on a gimbal). 

But if the camera is using BOTH the stabilization from the lens and then two-axis stabilization from the body, then the warping is reduced.

(I have seen a lot of vlogs of people using the 20-60mm lens - which doesn't have stabilization - and the corner warping is really annoying.)

 

To avoid corner warping with wide angle lenses I have always turned off stabilization and used a gimbal for real estate. I did quite a bit of testing with both and found that with both lens and IBIS off and the camera mounted to a gimbal I got no warping as long as my gimbal technique was correct and the gimbal was properly calibrated.

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2 hours ago, herein2020 said:

To avoid corner warping with wide angle lenses I have always turned off stabilization and used a gimbal for real estate. I did quite a bit of testing with both and found that with both lens and IBIS off and the camera mounted to a gimbal I got no warping as long as my gimbal technique was correct and the gimbal was properly calibrated.

Thanks. I have tried that but unfortunately for me I end up with a LOT of micro jitters whenever I turn off stabilization. It is "fixable" to a point with stabilization in resolve but as you know, when you shoot real estate video you are usually walking / sliding / panning so sometimes dialing in stabilization in post can be tricky.

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10 hours ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks. I have tried that but unfortunately for me I end up with a LOT of micro jitters whenever I turn off stabilization. It is "fixable" to a point with stabilization in resolve but as you know, when you shoot real estate video you are usually walking / sliding / panning so sometimes dialing in stabilization in post can be tricky.

What gimbal are you using and is it perfectly balanced and calibrated? I used to leave IS on with my GH5 and a wide angle lens but the warping seemed to end up in the footage at the worst possible time. It took a lot of fiddling with my gimbal settings to get the proper calibration to remove everything when IS is off and with the Ronin S I have to hit calibrate every time I put the camera on the gimbal or the micro jitters will be there. But, once the gimbal is perfectly dialed in, there's no warping or micro jitters.

The hardest part for me is remembering to turn it back on before shooting handheld or moving to a different type of stabilizer.

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19 hours ago, herein2020 said:

What gimbal are you using and is it perfectly balanced and calibrated? I used to leave IS on with my GH5 and a wide angle lens but the warping seemed to end up in the footage at the worst possible time. It took a lot of fiddling with my gimbal settings to get the proper calibration to remove everything when IS is off and with the Ronin S I have to hit calibrate every time I put the camera on the gimbal or the micro jitters will be there. But, once the gimbal is perfectly dialed in, there's no warping or micro jitters.

The hardest part for me is remembering to turn it back on before shooting handheld or moving to a different type of stabilizer.

I am using the Weebill S. I think that technically the gimbal is strong enough, although it is a pretty hefty payload with the S5 + Canon EF-16-35 f/4 L and the MC-21.

It's also a bit difficult to dial in the stabilization. If I use the Auto-Tune feature of the gimbal (where it adjusts the motor strength automatically) then it tunes the motors TOO STRONG and the gimbal just vibrates on its own. (Just setting the gimbal down on a table with a tripod screwed in to the base and after about five seconds it just starts vibrating like crazy).

Yeah, it's a bummer that you can't set a function button to turn the IBIS on and off. With lenses that have stabilization, you can use the switch on the side of the lens. On the S1, it has two levers, and I think one can assign one of those levers to turn on and off IBIS quickly.

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58 minutes ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

I am using the Weebill S. I think that technically the gimbal is strong enough, although it is a pretty hefty payload with the S5 + Canon EF-16-35 f/4 L and the MC-21.

It's also a bit difficult to dial in the stabilization. If I use the Auto-Tune feature of the gimbal (where it adjusts the motor strength automatically) then it tunes the motors TOO STRONG and the gimbal just vibrates on its own. (Just setting the gimbal down on a table with a tripod screwed in to the base and after about five seconds it just starts vibrating like crazy).

Yeah, it's a bummer that you can't set a function button to turn the IBIS on and off. With lenses that have stabilization, you can use the switch on the side of the lens. On the S1, it has two levers, and I think one can assign one of those levers to turn on and off IBIS quickly.

 

From everything I have read, the DJI Ronin series is unmatched by any other gimbal vendor in its motor auto tuning capabilities with the runner up being Zhyun Crane so that may be the difference.  The Ronin S can also fly a C200 (with a lot of fiddling) so with the S5 so far below its payload limit that probably helps as well. I did manage to upset it though when I tried to add a condenser mic to the top of the S5, even the Ronin S gave up on that one since the arm could not go low enough to center the load. But it does let me fly the S5 with the MC21, the Canon EF 24mm F2.8, and a Sennheiser receiver mounted to the hotshoe of the S5.

I have not tried the Canon EF 16-35 F4 which I also have; so far since getting the S5 all of my video projects have involved people so the Sigma 50mm F1.4 or the Canon EF 24mm F2.8 have worked fine for that. With both of those lenses I can leave everything on and no corner warping will occur hand held or mounted to the gimbal.

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I’ve just sold one of my S5’s…

I had two, plus an S1H and an S1R, but don’t need 4 cameras.

I still think it’s a great camera, but I’ve shifted into a B roll position now as the others are just too good not to use as my primary video and stills cameras respectively.

I’m not ‘waiting’ but hope Panny do bring out a second generation of FF cameras…but ideally not until 2023!

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in reference to this camera and kit lens (20-60) - is it a stepless aperture when shooting video in shutter priority mode?

 

i want the camera to change the aperture when light changes and fix the shutter speed - but i dont want to see the aperture changes step up/down and should be smooth in video if that makes sense? - on the gh5 some lenses did/didnt do this

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@mercer S35 has a faster sensor readout, 15ms vs 22ms. 4K 50/60p is 10bit 420. S35 is still even using a bit more than a 1to1 readout I think. It´s a powerful image taker but takes some effort in grading. I have a S1, same sensor and all, just no swivel screen and full Hdmi. S35 gives me the opportunity to use some s16 lenses covering S35 sensor size.

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18 hours ago, mercer said:

Are there any advantages/disadvantages to the S5's S35 mode? Is 4K 60p relegated to the S35 crop? Is it 10bit?

I am not sure exactly what you mean by "relegated" here, but...

1) 50p /60p 4K is only available with the aps-c crop (no full frame 50p / 60p in 4K), and it is 10-bit, 4:2:0 Long GOP (same as with the S1)

2) You can still shoot 24p / 25p / 30p in aps-c (super35 mode) in 4K if you want (along with 50p and 60p). 

 

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Live cropping mode.

Anyone used this? I tested it out and it works quite well but I was wondering is it really doing anything that you could not do in post anyway? Correct me if I am wrong but in terms of zoom (as opposed to panning) it is a digital effect that can be exactly replicated in an NLE by zooming in on the image to the same percentage i.e. Full frame HD to APS-C (which seems to be all the camera can do, over 20 or 40 seconds. Quality would be the same wouldn't it?

What I really want is an auto optical zoom but that is not a feature.

One odd thing that I keep doing and can't quite work out why is that when setting up the camera / shot I seem to do something towards the front of the camera that changes the LCD screen to a Preview menu setting page that i then have to cancel. Anyone know what is causing this?

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On 11/6/2021 at 7:37 PM, herein2020 said:

For the type of work that I do, 4K is critical. For fashion shows I am typically hired to shoot the whole show for both photography and video so the camera is on a tripod while I hand hold the photography camera; I edit on a 1080P timeline and use 4K to crop, zoom, and recompose. Multiple times it would have been even better to have 6K when the models are walking or stop short of the mark; but I really wouldn't want to have to deal with the increased storage requirements.

So for me the real power of everything over 1080P is in the edit, not the delivery.

I had not thought about it like this so interesting. It does not really come up in the same way with what I do - I just need to frame the shot right and I only adjust frame size after occasionally, mainly due to a technical failure on my part!

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