Geoffrey

I am struggling to see any value in my life - if I am researching something I want to look at various sources (and really importantly, vet them) and come to my own conclusion based on the evidence, and present that evidence accordingly if need be, combined with my own reasoning. These chat bots regurgitate stuff (from wherever but presumably via someone's idea of what is reliable, but not mine), very cleverly, addressing what is asked, and that's it, as if it is 'the answer' (though may be based on rubbish but we have no idea as there is zero transparency - the potential for manipulation is huge) - the worst kind of research tool. I suppose it is OK for casual enquiry and for those who want to write bland bollocks that isn't worth writing in the first place. but we somehow seem to think is required. It would be great for political speeches and responses that sound good but say nothing and for those 'statements' put out by government and other institutions in place of actually having to face an interview.

None of this is real AI though is it? To date there is nothing thinking and feeling like humans do anyway. And that is part of its problem.

No worries it was worth a try. I am wondering ow if I can get a LUT of the Cinelike D2 profile that might help but looking online all I can see are LUTs you use with the profile not a LUT of the profile.

I downloaded the free trial and tried it but as I suspected it assume you shot in log and only has that profile in the various cameras templates it offers (which is quite extensive). I tried it anyway but it is no good on non-log profiles and worse than my manual efforts.

Actually just found it online. I notice it is all about Log footage though which mine isn't but maybe I am misunderstanding the workflow?

Is that the tool in Resolve?

Thanks for the advice, for next time though.

Thanks for this, it sounds like a good method. The problem I have is that I want (need really) to stick to the look of one camera, the S5, as I use the CineD2 space and the rest of the film, all shot with the S5 only, uses it. So what I am actually trying to do is match the Fuji to the S5 footage which I don't want to change (much). I have tried the auto colour match feature in Lumetri but it is very ballpark, so stopped using that and went manual as it were but then ran into a wall of ignorance. I have made some progress with the hue curves and the match is much better but not right by some distance. One of the problems I had in the field was that the Fuji white balance feature did not work - it is stupidly sensitive to light and kept coming up with 'fail' and there is only so much time you can fiddle around before you have start shooting (I was filming a small music ensemble outdoors). The S5 has no such problem and I did a manual white balance no problem and when I reviewed the footage I pretty much liked the S5 material straight out of the cam with only some minor tweaks needed (and this is true for the rest of the film material). The annoying thing is I like the Fuji material but it just looks so different (and I am sure some of that difference is not colour related though all the basic stuff, shutter, frame rate etc., is the same of course). I guess another approach is to actually embrace the difference (it is from a quite different angle and both cameras are static).

Anyone know any good tutorials on colour matching? I did a shoot with the S5 and a Fuji camera recently and am really struggling to match them. I use Premiere which has some good colour tools and have reasonable experience in using Lumetri colour but I go round in circles trying to match them, getting reasonably close but not knowing what the next step is to really crack it. This is mainly due to inexperience and having little sense what the best method is / best way to start.

Ah yes, stick-on velcro might well do it, good suggestion (and I just saw some in Rymans' stationers)

I feel nervous about using glue on the hardware! Velcro straps might work. I have looked at holders but the problem I have is what to attach one to as I already have a couple of mics (on a bar) and a wireless receiver on top of the camera (and the Tascam below)

Thinking about this I guess some very good duck / gaffer tape might do it.

Just ordered a Lumix 50mm lens for the S5. Took a slight risk using a new company GadgetWard UK but the price was very competitive (£378, free shipping) and the reviews of the company were generally very positive. There was a question upthread about a USB power block for the S5 and though I don't need it for that, something like it would be very useful for my battery hungry Tascam DR-70D. I have looked into a 10,000 mAh Anker job at £35 which I think will do the job fine but the issue is how to mount it with other things I already have to deal with. In many ways it would ideally go sort of attached to the front of the Tascam or even under it, next to the tripod mount, but beyond resorting to superglue, I cannot think of any way to do this. What I don't need is any more arms or brackets or whatever as I have nowhere for them to go without things getting silly (and I go handheld quite a bit). Any ideas? The Anker is small (about the size of a playing card) and light (180g)

Thanks for the detailed replies Mark and Mr SMW. Definitely moving towards the 50mm Lumix (helped by it being the cheapest!). Also intrigued by experimenting with a cheap manual vintage lens as long as I can work out what adapter I would need. I have noticed occasional warpy edges with IBIS on the 20-60 but only in quite extreme situations (i.e. zoomed right in and high wind making staying still impossible) and even then you had to look for it to notice it. Does anyone use the other image stabilisation features on the S5? I have always stuck with just IBIS.

So maybe the 85mm then? Thinking about it an 85mm could be useful. The only thing there is that I quite like to get physically quite close, so an 85mm would then be much too close (this is very clear from Shane's video). What is my normal range is a good question and one I have considered. I guess a few feet (single figures) from the subject but it does vary quite a bit from very close to distant. I do use zoom a little but often I stick with either zoomed out fully or slightly in to avoid any image distortion (and as you the dictated higher aperture values). This is also because handheld, with heavy zoom this increases the handling wobble markedly. But then would this instability be the same problem with a prime lens like the 85mm? I am not clear on this. I use zoom much more on the tripod and then tend to be further away. The other factor is image quality - prime lenses produce better images, no? But is that, that big a factor? I don't tend to do aps-c crop as I shoot 50p HD. I may move to 4k in future but am not in a hurry as I am not geared up for the file sizes and processing power at the moment. 1080p 50fps on the S5 looks great to me anyway. Given everything I do wonder if a 50mm might be best. rather than the 85 (also happens to be a lot cheaper). Hm, decisions.