pryde

Glad to hear you are enjoying it !
To make sure that the PBC starts up as fast as possible, it goes into a hibernation mode when you switch it off or if it senses that the camera has been switched off so essentially it already is in (ultra) low power mode.
In order for the PBC to re-connect automatically when the camera switches on, it would need to be in a constant BLE scanning mode which would drain the PBC battery (and faster than it would during normal operation actually) so you'd then end up with two power problems instead of one
There is some scope to make the scan to be periodic to reduce the power consumption but then the issue becomes at what interval the scan is done  as if you switch the camera on in the non-scanning period you would have to wait until it was caught by the next one so its then much quicker to just reboot the PBC.
With regard to the USB-C port on the camera, its a no go really unfortunately as so many people use that to connect their recording media.
Ideally, of course, BM would have a power saving setting for the camera to switch the screen off etc which would be a big help in general to all users not just those with PBCs but I obviously have no knowledge of whether they have that in the works.
 

@BTM_Pix First off, I LOVE the PCB. mainly for the fact that it's allowed me to do away with the tilta motor and the wires and bulk it adds to an already bulky system. Since i use the Canon 35mm f/2 90% of the time, the PCB makes using the nano for pulling focus seamless. No more calibrating lenses during shooting is wonderful.
Here's my one issue, which is minor, but would take the PCB to the next level for me. Due to the P4k's terrible battery life, I am in the habit of turning the camera off between takes. Leaving the nucleus on continuously so it doesn't forget it's connection to the PCB isn't a problem as 2 batteries are plenty, but every time I turn the P4k on, I also have to restart the PCB. Is there any way for the PCB to remain in low power mode and to switch on when it senses the P4k has turned on? Or perhaps if it's plugged into the usb-C port on the P4k, could power through the cable trigger the PCB to turn on and connect? I obviously don't understand the technical factors at work here, but wanted to throw this your way to see if a solution was possible. Thanks!

So having shot with the bmpcc4k now for most of 2019 figured I'd share a finished video if anyone is thinking about doing wedding work with one. 
 

And through window 5 we have the Tilta Nucleus Nano integration to give you wireless focus control without gears, motors and additional power.
They work in tandem so you can now have full aperture and focus control from a gimbal.
More tomorrow.
 
You can test it next week when we do our election special from Waterstones cafe!

You should join the Anamorphic Shooters group on Facebook (if you use it). Lot's of great info you can search through.
Pooli is a member there who has started rehousing anamorphics to make them smaller, lighter, and making it easier to rig up. His website is Pooli . ru
I'm sending him a Schneider cinelux to rehouse this week.

Some shameless pimping for v1.4 of 3C in case you missed it in the other thread.
Added support for using Tilta Nucleus Nano focus wheel to control native and EF adapted lenses without requiring gear rings/focus motor/power.
Ideal for gimbals or just to keep the overall package form down.
 

I think using right angle HDMI and USB-C connectors and channeling them upwards would alleviate any concerns I'd have about it but its early days yet anyway so no doubt cages with clamps will be along before long.
Also, if you are only recording internally, then as the live streaming video above shows, the FP is a UVC compliant device so you will be able to plug it into your phone and use that as a monitor with any number of UVC apps.
 

Modified Sigma's smaller grip to allow it to hold a T5; haven't printed it yet so not so sure how comfortable it is.

The Blackmagic RAW highlight and shadow rolloff sliders affect the roll off of the "S" contrast curve you create with the custom gamma controls. If you add no contrast, they will do nothing as there's nothing to roll off. Increase (or lower) contrast and they will start to take affect. Choose "Extended Video" from the gamma selection in the Blackmagic RAW panel and you will see it's actually just a custom S curve with saturation preset via the custom gamma controls - you can start to modify it to your taste and the "gamma" automatically changes from "Extended Video" to "Custom". Or you can start from scratch with "Blackmagic Film".

If you want the highlight/shadows sliders that were in DNG panel, those are not RAW specific controls and are still available in the 2nd tab of the primaries (same algorithm as found in DNG tab and same exact effect on Blackmagic RAW clips as DNG).

If transforming to another log curve or colour space helps you get what you want faster, great! Different log curves like ARRI/Red or using highlight roll off sliders/presets don't give you anything you can't do yourself by using the curves tool etc, but not everyone is experienced with that stuff. Our log curves preserve the full sensor dynamic range though so the highlight roll off is completely in your hands, or you can start with another log curve if it suits.

Something I tend to do a bit is expose for the native ISO in camera, then later in the RAW tab I switch to the highest ISO possible and compensate middle grey with the exposure slider which will lower contrast and have the most highlight roll off we offer in our log curves for a particular camera. I start with Extended Video from the gamma drop down and tweak the contrast/sat and highlight/roll off sliders for the shot. Adjust white balance/tint and that gets me 90-95% there with most footage.

Every time the NX1 gets mentioned, I return.

Just ordered the Peak Design Capture as recommended by @pryde so we'll see how that goes.  Likely put it on the front strap of my day-pack and have the Sony X3000 action camera mounted on it.
During travel legs I'll have quick access to the X3000 and when I'm at location I can easily swap between X3000 and GH5 as required.  My trip is approaching, so starting to get excited ???

Here goes nothin'........
Camera #2

A quick peek at one of the expansion options for the PBC.
This one is a focus controller where the focus range of the lens is mapped to one full turn of the control.
Obviously, ignore the electrical tape thats holding it together.
The production version will be using gaffer tape.

Small Bluetooth remote Record/Stop button controller with screen to provide real time status from camera of :
Aperture Shutter Angle ISO Temperature Tint Integral bright LED illuminates to show record status.
Kickstarter in August.
Price will be €60
Production version will not be orange.

 

According to Art Adams (and confirmed by my own observations), the secret to Canon's skintones is that they push red slightly toward orange. Since most blemishes are redder than the surrounding skin, it makes them blend in and provides an overall creaminess that's not color accurate but is aesthetically pleasing. They also push green tones slightly toward blue to compensate for and contrast with the abundance of orange.

6k Photo Mode conformed to 23.976 with some correction in Premiere

You can choose 4:3 in 4K or 6K photo mode. Here's a short vid using 4k Photo mode with 4:3 aspect ratio, Mamiya 105mm and Möller 32/2x Anamorphot. There's no colour correction just very slight exposure adjustments on a few different picture profiles.  It would be nice to get 25fps (or 24) atm it's 30 or 60p in 4K and 30 in 6K. It would also be nice to have HLG for this mode. Also, I wonder what bit rate and colour space the file records at in photo mode, anyone know?
https://youtu.be/jbZ1AFM2kA8

Gordon Laing has done a really fantastic video-specific look at the S1/S1R. Worth a watch:
 

The S1 with the Voigtländer 40mm f1.2 M-mount is a match made in heaven.

GH5 - Cine-D

I'm cutting an entire DPRTV episode shot on the S1 with 10 Bit 4:2:0 HLG. Not doing anything overly demanding, but I'm finding it has a really nice, organic look. You can all let me know what you think when it goes up this weekend.

Sure; it depends on what you'd like. Fuji and BMD have very good, usable color. I personally will use P4K with GH5; I hope to have EC to do a production this summer.
8 bit is tricky; I'd prefer to only support 10 bit cameras, though I will try to find a way that will give viable production level results with 8-bit. I think Log is not really in the cards there.
 
Bit of really cool news; last weekend, the director of a film starring Josh Hartnett wrote to me to say that they were using the GH5 with EC as a pick-up cam alongside Alexa Minis and XTs.
He said that a senior Star Wars colorist was doing the grade, and said that 'everybody was very impressed' with it. I was pretty thrilled with that

Well, it doesn't balance out the box, you need to add weights, but that's not a huge issue. I made a weight by taping things to the arm until it balanced, weight it all and then went to the hardware store and bought the smallest, thing I could that weighed around the same. Now I just use velcro to put it on quickly and easily. Works like a charm and it's actually easier to fine tune the balance as you can move it up and down the arm. For me, this is a great solution and I don't mind at all. Others might find it a turn off. 
Once it's balanced, it's great fun to use, and so far I've always been happy with the results. The rest is all personal preferences. For example, the Sigma 18-35 1.4 is a long and heavy lens. To centre the weight of the camera, you have to move it so far back on the mounting plate that it ends up on the back motor. So you can't use this set up despite it being within the weight limits. That's a shame. But the fact the gimbal is small enough for that to happen is a big reason for many people to buy it. It fits in my bag without a problem. So if you want to use long heavy lenses, you're going to be disappointed. If you're using short or light though, it's fantastic.
My favourite so far to use is the nifty fifty, but due to its field of view, it's more susceptible to showing shakes than a 10mm lens would. I'm not a fan of those ultra wide shots, and the shakes I'm getting don't seem to be too distracting. Perhaps the Sigma 30mm is a happy medium, but it's also makes the light gimbal and the light camera heavy on the arms. Again, this all depends on what you want out of the gimbal. 
As for wobble. I'll let you judge that for yourself. For me, it's more than acceptable, especially if you're filming slowmo or adding a touch of stabilisation in post. This clip was shot at 48fps in DCI ProRes LT with the 50mm at f4. The first half is played at 24fps and then after is the same edit played back in real time (real time at 2:09). 
I'm filming an event this weekend solely with the P4k, and plan on using the gimbal for close to all of my Broll shots. Due to the how it'll be distributed, I will be shooting slowmotion, but will try to chop and change between 30 and 50mm to get a nice, fair comparison of the two. If I can I'll upload some of the footage, but either way I'll report back on how it was to work with for an extended period.
 

I ran into an issue I haven't been able to find much talk about so I thought I'd share - 
I'm using the P4K with the Viltrox EF-M2 and primarily the Canon 35mm f2 IS and Sigma 24-105 F4 IS. The viltrox had the same firmware as when i received it, probably 2.2 or something. When I would turn on the P4K, the aperture wouldn't show up. I had to disconnect the adapter and reconnect it with the camera on, and then the aperture would show up and be able to be adjusted.
So, I downloaded the latest firmware (3.2) from Viltrox's website and installed it. Boom! aperture shows up every time now. BUT, image stabilization didn't work anymore. Downgraded to 3.1. IS still didn't work. Did some hunting online and someone recommended downgrading to version 2.3. Did that and now aperture shows up upon boot and IS works every time. 
I had been considering getting an aputure lensregain if the Viltrox wasn't going to work anymore and so i can use it as a follow focus for EF lenses. Maybe I'll still get it and leave the Viltrox on my GH5. We'll see.

M.2 SSD Enclosure Kit is a great option too!
https://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-760