pryde

Purchased, and can't wait to receive it. The original PCB made my Pocket 4k experience so much better. 2 quick questions: 1. Will this new module still link with the nano wheel, allowing you to pull focus with ef/native lenses in addition to the autofocus? 2. are there any good solutions for mounting the handheld controller to a cage or rail system? I understand its need, but I also rarely have a free hand while operating the camera and would hate to be putting it in my pocket or something.

YES! Been waiting for this. Can’t think of a product in recent memory I’ve been more excited to buy.

It's not an open gate mode and it isn't down sampling, just reading the 5k portion of the sensor so there is a slight crop. maybe 1.1 or something. Not very noticeable compared to normal photo mode but it's there.

Nope, it’s 30p only. But shoot 1/50th and drop it on a 24fps timeline and you won’t really be able to tell much of a difference. To me, the final product doesn’t look like 30p footage.

yup, IBIS works in photos modes and video modes alike

The answer is yes. With Vlog upgrade and a recent firmware. They added it at some point with a firmware update.

I've actually been playing with using the CineEye with my Pocket4k as a replacement to my SmallHD Focus in order to reduce weight as well as allow for others on set to monitor at the same time. At a recent job though, I could not get the CineEye to connect to my phone. Wifi connected but I couldn't get an image. I'm chocking this up to being in a building with a ton of wifi signals. Because of this, i've been considering testing out the Android hdmi option. The one thing that I crave in all monitoring solutions though is to be able to increase sharpness on the screen. SmallHD does this and it allows me to pull focus without the distraction of focus peaking; magic lantern also does this and its so helpful to me. I emailed Acsoon and suggested it, and they said they'd pass it on to their developers so we'll see. All that to say, I would LOVE to just use an android phone with a high quality screen as a monitor, but being able to control sharpness is my biggest need in a monitor and I kind of doubt that any of the android monitoring apps have this feature. Anyone know if that's an available feature somewhere?

@BTM_Pix That makes sense. I figured you had thought it all through. Like i said, it's not a big deal, i just have to hit 2 buttons when i turn the camera on. Also, really looking forward to TOF. Probably more excited about that than any potential camera releases coming up.

@BTM_Pix First off, I LOVE the PCB. mainly for the fact that it's allowed me to do away with the tilta motor and the wires and bulk it adds to an already bulky system. Since i use the Canon 35mm f/2 90% of the time, the PCB makes using the nano for pulling focus seamless. No more calibrating lenses during shooting is wonderful. Here's my one issue, which is minor, but would take the PCB to the next level for me. Due to the P4k's terrible battery life, I am in the habit of turning the camera off between takes. Leaving the nucleus on continuously so it doesn't forget it's connection to the PCB isn't a problem as 2 batteries are plenty, but every time I turn the P4k on, I also have to restart the PCB. Is there any way for the PCB to remain in low power mode and to switch on when it senses the P4k has turned on? Or perhaps if it's plugged into the usb-C port on the P4k, could power through the cable trigger the PCB to turn on and connect? I obviously don't understand the technical factors at work here, but wanted to throw this your way to see if a solution was possible. Thanks!

There is one way to get stabilization with third party lenses. If I remember correctly, LucAdapters made a version of the NX-L that used the electronic components of the Aputure DEC and therefore allowed you to use EF lenses and power their OIS. Am I crazy, he made that right? That said, he's not making them anymore as far as I can tell and getting one would be even harder than getting a regular NX-L. This forum would probably be the best spot to find someone selling one though.

Pretty confident you can't record 4k60p in HLG internally. that can only be done over hdmi unfortunately.

You should join the Anamorphic Shooters group on Facebook (if you use it). Lot's of great info you can search through. Pooli is a member there who has started rehousing anamorphics to make them smaller, lighter, and making it easier to rig up. His website is Pooli . ru I'm sending him a Schneider cinelux to rehouse this week.

I use the nucleus with my P4K and would LOVE to eliminate the motor. Two questions: - Is the Viltrox a smart enough adapter or is metabones necessary? - how quickly does the app connect the nucleus and the Pocket? here’s how I usually use the camera: it’s off until I need a shot and then I switch it on, then turn it off immediately when done due to battery life. Is it possible to just have the app running on a phone in my pocket, turn on the camera, and have the nucleus ready to control the lens? Thanks!

Something to keep in mind as well if you were planning on shooting in the “6k photo mode” 4:3 aspect ratio is that if you’re planning on using an external monitor to desqueeze your footage, the hdmi signal goes black once you hit record. It only does this in the 6k photomode, not in standard video modes. But standard video modes limit you to shooting 16:9. No big deal if you’re fine with that.

Nice, glad you figured out the bitrate, Andrew. I found the 6k photomode just playing around a few weeks ago but was too dumb to check the manual for the specs. Really hoping the upgrade comes with the ability to shoot in 24p and HLG in this mode. I have the Leica 90mm f/2 and have been trying to get my hands on a Moller 32/2x to pair with it and the S1. Nick Driftwood has posted several videos shooting anamorphic with the S1 and the 24-105.

Hmm. I just changed the aspect ratio in the photo menu to 4:3 and it's working for me, unless i'm really confused, which is possible. Check it out. File is downloadable on vimeo. https://vimeo.com/335510081/bb0fdb4099

I'm curious if anyone has tried or seen footage of someone using the 6k/4k photo mode in 4:3 on the S1 for some full frame anamorphic. I played around with the photo mode this morning but I don't have any anamorphic glass or adapters.

The Holdfast Moneymaker is the easier solution for juggling 2 handheld cameras, but you definitely draw attention wearing it. Maybe a Peak Design Capture? Clip whatever camera you're not using to your belt. It's pretty quick and even the gh5 is lightweight enough that it's not too bothersome to have hanging from your belt or a backpack strap.

Yeah they're bright enough, I don't usually use them at full strength. They work well for dances and speeches as well, although if you can get a spotlight (came-tv and boltzen have good ones) that's super helpful for speeches. Then you can throw a panel off to the side or back and get a little back/rim light for some definition. You definitely want lights that are bicolor or come with inserts to make them tungsten. I've ordered the 300 panels several times and have received a version with both daylight and tungsten leds, as well as a version with only daylight leds and tungsten inserts. You do not want to be using daylight colored lights in a setting where all the other lights are tungsten, it'll look awful.

I've shot weddings without great autofocus cameras for several years, primarily the gh5. In the case of the gh5, I would just single focus, and maintain the same distance from the couple, but I primarily use gimbal for dances. Even if you have a camera with great autofocus, if you're shooting from a tripod, you're going to be moving the camera the entire time to follow the couple and maintaining perfect focus won't be much easier than just manual focusing unless you're trying to shoot this at f/1.4 or something. I've also used the a7iii and even with the mc-11 adapter I would just use autofocus on that and it was pretty great. BUT I hardly ever shoot dances without adding some light. Even if you have a camera that you can shoot 6400 iso without worrying much about noise, a lot of dance floors just have awful or no lighting - you want to add at least something to shape the light to be flattering. The most simple and lightweight setup in my opinion is 2 leds on opposite corners of the dance floor. I just use cheap Yongnuo 300 panels which have a remote to control, and put them at a level of brightness that helps illuminate the couple's faces while not being distracting.

Actually Viltrox finally released their AF speedbooster for the M. I have it and it works as well as any of their other speedboosters and does not have any of the terrible blue dots and flaring that the chinese one you mentioned (I had that one briefly and immediately got rid of it).

Other than the issue I mentioned with aperture and IS issues that were fixed via firmware, I haven't had issues with viltrox and I've been shooting with the EF-M2 on the Gh5 for at least a year. I've also used the metabones and the physical quality is much nicer, but image wise I haven't noticed a difference. I'm guessing they just have poor quality control, as was mentioned. I actually own Viltrox speed boosters for m43, eos-m, and fuji x and don't have any serious complaints. For those who've used the Aputure Lensregain on the P4k , is it a good solution for not having any sort of autofocus control on adapted lenses? Is the focusing controlled and smooth or obnoxious and semi erratic like focus by wire?

I ran into an issue I haven't been able to find much talk about so I thought I'd share - I'm using the P4K with the Viltrox EF-M2 and primarily the Canon 35mm f2 IS and Sigma 24-105 F4 IS. The viltrox had the same firmware as when i received it, probably 2.2 or something. When I would turn on the P4K, the aperture wouldn't show up. I had to disconnect the adapter and reconnect it with the camera on, and then the aperture would show up and be able to be adjusted. So, I downloaded the latest firmware (3.2) from Viltrox's website and installed it. Boom! aperture shows up every time now. BUT, image stabilization didn't work anymore. Downgraded to 3.1. IS still didn't work. Did some hunting online and someone recommended downgrading to version 2.3. Did that and now aperture shows up upon boot and IS works every time. I had been considering getting an aputure lensregain if the Viltrox wasn't going to work anymore and so i can use it as a follow focus for EF lenses. Maybe I'll still get it and leave the Viltrox on my GH5. We'll see.

Really excited for the potential here. I'm going to keep playing with variations on settings, but just doing a quick clip at my desk showed some nasty macroblocking in the shadows that I haven't seen since before I started using the bitrate hack. Can't imagine how bad they'd be if the bitrate was standard. The video shows the same clip OOC and with a basic lut. I think I'm going to play around with RGB values around 1.50 next. Or maybe this is a Master Black Level issue. I generally only shoot with it at +5 and in Gamma DR. Settings: RGB all 1.99 Gamma Control Normal contrast -5, sharpness -10, saturation -1 MB level +15 Bitrate Hack: 140 mbps Lens: 16-50 @ f/2.0 on wide shot, f/2.8 tight iso 1600, 1/50th, UHD

I would say 4k raw would definitely double the horsepower of the nx1 for my purposes, as long as the workflow isn't entirely unreasonable. The difference in quality can be experienced by shooting a timelapse with raw photos and comparing that to a hyperlapse shot in h265. The color depth and malleability just doesn't compare. I'm not throwing shade at the nx1's video quality (i still use it regularly after all), I'm just saying usable 4k raw video would put the camera in another league altogether.