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About pryde

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    Southern California
  • My cameras and kit
    Panasonic GH5, Samsung Nx1

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  1. @BTM_Pix That makes sense. I figured you had thought it all through. Like i said, it's not a big deal, i just have to hit 2 buttons when i turn the camera on. Also, really looking forward to TOF. Probably more excited about that than any potential camera releases coming up.
  2. @BTM_Pix First off, I LOVE the PCB. mainly for the fact that it's allowed me to do away with the tilta motor and the wires and bulk it adds to an already bulky system. Since i use the Canon 35mm f/2 90% of the time, the PCB makes using the nano for pulling focus seamless. No more calibrating lenses during shooting is wonderful. Here's my one issue, which is minor, but would take the PCB to the next level for me. Due to the P4k's terrible battery life, I am in the habit of turning the camera off between takes. Leaving the nucleus on continuously so it doesn't forget it's connection to the PCB isn't a problem as 2 batteries are plenty, but every time I turn the P4k on, I also have to restart the PCB. Is there any way for the PCB to remain in low power mode and to switch on when it senses the P4k has turned on? Or perhaps if it's plugged into the usb-C port on the P4k, could power through the cable trigger the PCB to turn on and connect? I obviously don't understand the technical factors at work here, but wanted to throw this your way to see if a solution was possible. Thanks!
  3. There is one way to get stabilization with third party lenses. If I remember correctly, LucAdapters made a version of the NX-L that used the electronic components of the Aputure DEC and therefore allowed you to use EF lenses and power their OIS. Am I crazy, he made that right? That said, he's not making them anymore as far as I can tell and getting one would be even harder than getting a regular NX-L. This forum would probably be the best spot to find someone selling one though.
  4. Pretty confident you can't record 4k60p in HLG internally. that can only be done over hdmi unfortunately.
  5. pryde


    You should join the Anamorphic Shooters group on Facebook (if you use it). Lot's of great info you can search through. Pooli is a member there who has started rehousing anamorphics to make them smaller, lighter, and making it easier to rig up. His website is Pooli . ru I'm sending him a Schneider cinelux to rehouse this week.
  6. I use the nucleus with my P4K and would LOVE to eliminate the motor. Two questions: - Is the Viltrox a smart enough adapter or is metabones necessary? - how quickly does the app connect the nucleus and the Pocket? here’s how I usually use the camera: it’s off until I need a shot and then I switch it on, then turn it off immediately when done due to battery life. Is it possible to just have the app running on a phone in my pocket, turn on the camera, and have the nucleus ready to control the lens? Thanks!
  7. Something to keep in mind as well if you were planning on shooting in the “6k photo mode” 4:3 aspect ratio is that if you’re planning on using an external monitor to desqueeze your footage, the hdmi signal goes black once you hit record. It only does this in the 6k photomode, not in standard video modes. But standard video modes limit you to shooting 16:9. No big deal if you’re fine with that.
  8. Nice, glad you figured out the bitrate, Andrew. I found the 6k photomode just playing around a few weeks ago but was too dumb to check the manual for the specs. Really hoping the upgrade comes with the ability to shoot in 24p and HLG in this mode. I have the Leica 90mm f/2 and have been trying to get my hands on a Moller 32/2x to pair with it and the S1. Nick Driftwood has posted several videos shooting anamorphic with the S1 and the 24-105.
  9. I'm interested but the comment about not being able to get sharp images is holding me back. Can you share what taking lens you were using?
  10. Hmm. I just changed the aspect ratio in the photo menu to 4:3 and it's working for me, unless i'm really confused, which is possible. Check it out. File is downloadable on vimeo. https://vimeo.com/335510081/bb0fdb4099
  11. I'm curious if anyone has tried or seen footage of someone using the 6k/4k photo mode in 4:3 on the S1 for some full frame anamorphic. I played around with the photo mode this morning but I don't have any anamorphic glass or adapters.
  12. The Holdfast Moneymaker is the easier solution for juggling 2 handheld cameras, but you definitely draw attention wearing it. Maybe a Peak Design Capture? Clip whatever camera you're not using to your belt. It's pretty quick and even the gh5 is lightweight enough that it's not too bothersome to have hanging from your belt or a backpack strap.
  13. Yeah they're bright enough, I don't usually use them at full strength. They work well for dances and speeches as well, although if you can get a spotlight (came-tv and boltzen have good ones) that's super helpful for speeches. Then you can throw a panel off to the side or back and get a little back/rim light for some definition. You definitely want lights that are bicolor or come with inserts to make them tungsten. I've ordered the 300 panels several times and have received a version with both daylight and tungsten leds, as well as a version with only daylight leds and tungsten inserts. You do not want to be using daylight colored lights in a setting where all the other lights are tungsten, it'll look awful.
  14. I've shot weddings without great autofocus cameras for several years, primarily the gh5. In the case of the gh5, I would just single focus, and maintain the same distance from the couple, but I primarily use gimbal for dances. Even if you have a camera with great autofocus, if you're shooting from a tripod, you're going to be moving the camera the entire time to follow the couple and maintaining perfect focus won't be much easier than just manual focusing unless you're trying to shoot this at f/1.4 or something. I've also used the a7iii and even with the mc-11 adapter I would just use autofocus on that and it was pretty great. BUT I hardly ever shoot dances without adding some light. Even if you have a camera that you can shoot 6400 iso without worrying much about noise, a lot of dance floors just have awful or no lighting - you want to add at least something to shape the light to be flattering. The most simple and lightweight setup in my opinion is 2 leds on opposite corners of the dance floor. I just use cheap Yongnuo 300 panels which have a remote to control, and put them at a level of brightness that helps illuminate the couple's faces while not being distracting.
  15. Actually Viltrox finally released their AF speedbooster for the M. I have it and it works as well as any of their other speedboosters and does not have any of the terrible blue dots and flaring that the chinese one you mentioned (I had that one briefly and immediately got rid of it).
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