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About pryde

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    Southern California
  • My cameras and kit
    Panasonic GH5, Samsung Nx1

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  1. pryde


    You should join the Anamorphic Shooters group on Facebook (if you use it). Lot's of great info you can search through. Pooli is a member there who has started rehousing anamorphics to make them smaller, lighter, and making it easier to rig up. His website is Pooli . ru I'm sending him a Schneider cinelux to rehouse this week.
  2. I use the nucleus with my P4K and would LOVE to eliminate the motor. Two questions: - Is the Viltrox a smart enough adapter or is metabones necessary? - how quickly does the app connect the nucleus and the Pocket? here’s how I usually use the camera: it’s off until I need a shot and then I switch it on, then turn it off immediately when done due to battery life. Is it possible to just have the app running on a phone in my pocket, turn on the camera, and have the nucleus ready to control the lens? Thanks!
  3. Something to keep in mind as well if you were planning on shooting in the “6k photo mode” 4:3 aspect ratio is that if you’re planning on using an external monitor to desqueeze your footage, the hdmi signal goes black once you hit record. It only does this in the 6k photomode, not in standard video modes. But standard video modes limit you to shooting 16:9. No big deal if you’re fine with that.
  4. Nice, glad you figured out the bitrate, Andrew. I found the 6k photomode just playing around a few weeks ago but was too dumb to check the manual for the specs. Really hoping the upgrade comes with the ability to shoot in 24p and HLG in this mode. I have the Leica 90mm f/2 and have been trying to get my hands on a Moller 32/2x to pair with it and the S1. Nick Driftwood has posted several videos shooting anamorphic with the S1 and the 24-105.
  5. I'm interested but the comment about not being able to get sharp images is holding me back. Can you share what taking lens you were using?
  6. Hmm. I just changed the aspect ratio in the photo menu to 4:3 and it's working for me, unless i'm really confused, which is possible. Check it out. File is downloadable on vimeo. https://vimeo.com/335510081/bb0fdb4099
  7. I'm curious if anyone has tried or seen footage of someone using the 6k/4k photo mode in 4:3 on the S1 for some full frame anamorphic. I played around with the photo mode this morning but I don't have any anamorphic glass or adapters.
  8. The Holdfast Moneymaker is the easier solution for juggling 2 handheld cameras, but you definitely draw attention wearing it. Maybe a Peak Design Capture? Clip whatever camera you're not using to your belt. It's pretty quick and even the gh5 is lightweight enough that it's not too bothersome to have hanging from your belt or a backpack strap.
  9. Yeah they're bright enough, I don't usually use them at full strength. They work well for dances and speeches as well, although if you can get a spotlight (came-tv and boltzen have good ones) that's super helpful for speeches. Then you can throw a panel off to the side or back and get a little back/rim light for some definition. You definitely want lights that are bicolor or come with inserts to make them tungsten. I've ordered the 300 panels several times and have received a version with both daylight and tungsten leds, as well as a version with only daylight leds and tungsten inserts. You do not want to be using daylight colored lights in a setting where all the other lights are tungsten, it'll look awful.
  10. I've shot weddings without great autofocus cameras for several years, primarily the gh5. In the case of the gh5, I would just single focus, and maintain the same distance from the couple, but I primarily use gimbal for dances. Even if you have a camera with great autofocus, if you're shooting from a tripod, you're going to be moving the camera the entire time to follow the couple and maintaining perfect focus won't be much easier than just manual focusing unless you're trying to shoot this at f/1.4 or something. I've also used the a7iii and even with the mc-11 adapter I would just use autofocus on that and it was pretty great. BUT I hardly ever shoot dances without adding some light. Even if you have a camera that you can shoot 6400 iso without worrying much about noise, a lot of dance floors just have awful or no lighting - you want to add at least something to shape the light to be flattering. The most simple and lightweight setup in my opinion is 2 leds on opposite corners of the dance floor. I just use cheap Yongnuo 300 panels which have a remote to control, and put them at a level of brightness that helps illuminate the couple's faces while not being distracting.
  11. Actually Viltrox finally released their AF speedbooster for the M. I have it and it works as well as any of their other speedboosters and does not have any of the terrible blue dots and flaring that the chinese one you mentioned (I had that one briefly and immediately got rid of it).
  12. Other than the issue I mentioned with aperture and IS issues that were fixed via firmware, I haven't had issues with viltrox and I've been shooting with the EF-M2 on the Gh5 for at least a year. I've also used the metabones and the physical quality is much nicer, but image wise I haven't noticed a difference. I'm guessing they just have poor quality control, as was mentioned. I actually own Viltrox speed boosters for m43, eos-m, and fuji x and don't have any serious complaints. For those who've used the Aputure Lensregain on the P4k , is it a good solution for not having any sort of autofocus control on adapted lenses? Is the focusing controlled and smooth or obnoxious and semi erratic like focus by wire?
  13. I ran into an issue I haven't been able to find much talk about so I thought I'd share - I'm using the P4K with the Viltrox EF-M2 and primarily the Canon 35mm f2 IS and Sigma 24-105 F4 IS. The viltrox had the same firmware as when i received it, probably 2.2 or something. When I would turn on the P4K, the aperture wouldn't show up. I had to disconnect the adapter and reconnect it with the camera on, and then the aperture would show up and be able to be adjusted. So, I downloaded the latest firmware (3.2) from Viltrox's website and installed it. Boom! aperture shows up every time now. BUT, image stabilization didn't work anymore. Downgraded to 3.1. IS still didn't work. Did some hunting online and someone recommended downgrading to version 2.3. Did that and now aperture shows up upon boot and IS works every time. I had been considering getting an aputure lensregain if the Viltrox wasn't going to work anymore and so i can use it as a follow focus for EF lenses. Maybe I'll still get it and leave the Viltrox on my GH5. We'll see.
  14. Really excited for the potential here. I'm going to keep playing with variations on settings, but just doing a quick clip at my desk showed some nasty macroblocking in the shadows that I haven't seen since before I started using the bitrate hack. Can't imagine how bad they'd be if the bitrate was standard. The video shows the same clip OOC and with a basic lut. I think I'm going to play around with RGB values around 1.50 next. Or maybe this is a Master Black Level issue. I generally only shoot with it at +5 and in Gamma DR. Settings: RGB all 1.99 Gamma Control Normal contrast -5, sharpness -10, saturation -1 MB level +15 Bitrate Hack: 140 mbps Lens: 16-50 @ f/2.0 on wide shot, f/2.8 tight iso 1600, 1/50th, UHD
  15. pryde

    NX2 rumors

    I would say 4k raw would definitely double the horsepower of the nx1 for my purposes, as long as the workflow isn't entirely unreasonable. The difference in quality can be experienced by shooting a timelapse with raw photos and comparing that to a hyperlapse shot in h265. The color depth and malleability just doesn't compare. I'm not throwing shade at the nx1's video quality (i still use it regularly after all), I'm just saying usable 4k raw video would put the camera in another league altogether.
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