Parker

Personally, I can't stand OS X. I've never understood why most creatives seem to prefer it as an operating system. Why?! Granted, I grew up using Windows and worked in IT for a couple years, so I'd venture to guess I'm probably more of a power-user than the average, everyday person, but still, just in things like ease-of-use, customization, more advanced program management and multi-tasking, I'd take windows every time, hands down. In fact, the only reason I can possibly think of using an apple computer or their OS -- ever -- is if you're a fcpx user, since hackintosh is such a pain to get reliably running. 
Maybe there is some special secret to loving OS X, but if there is, I certainly haven't discovered it yet. 
 

I made one from black cardboard and used a fishing line. Obviously, the oval shape could be nicer, but at least I know that this anafake does not worth 50 bucks. You get the fishing line in your bokeh, the lights will be clearly divided in to two and the "waterfall bokeh" will have a fishing line like horizontal line. You can get rid of this by using a thiner line, but it will kill the flares. Check the cinemorphs characteristics, it's the same, anyway, the cardboard will definatelywork with your speedbooster  

Personally, I can't stand OS X. I've never understood why most creatives seem to prefer it as an operating system. Why?! Granted, I grew up using Windows and worked in IT for a couple years, so I'd venture to guess I'm probably more of a power-user than the average, everyday person, but still, just in things like ease-of-use, customization, more advanced program management and multi-tasking, I'd take windows every time, hands down. In fact, the only reason I can possibly think of using an apple computer or their OS -- ever -- is if you're a fcpx user, since hackintosh is such a pain to get reliably running. 
Maybe there is some special secret to loving OS X, but if there is, I certainly haven't discovered it yet. 
 

Personally, I can't stand OS X. I've never understood why most creatives seem to prefer it as an operating system. Why?! Granted, I grew up using Windows and worked in IT for a couple years, so I'd venture to guess I'm probably more of a power-user than the average, everyday person, but still, just in things like ease-of-use, customization, more advanced program management and multi-tasking, I'd take windows every time, hands down. In fact, the only reason I can possibly think of using an apple computer or their OS -- ever -- is if you're a fcpx user, since hackintosh is such a pain to get reliably running. 
Maybe there is some special secret to loving OS X, but if there is, I certainly haven't discovered it yet. 
 

Personally, I can't stand OS X. I've never understood why most creatives seem to prefer it as an operating system. Why?! Granted, I grew up using Windows and worked in IT for a couple years, so I'd venture to guess I'm probably more of a power-user than the average, everyday person, but still, just in things like ease-of-use, customization, more advanced program management and multi-tasking, I'd take windows every time, hands down. In fact, the only reason I can possibly think of using an apple computer or their OS -- ever -- is if you're a fcpx user, since hackintosh is such a pain to get reliably running. 
Maybe there is some special secret to loving OS X, but if there is, I certainly haven't discovered it yet. 
 

Which video? The one you posted? I don't know
my video above uses the new DLog yes

Thank you for your interest.
actually the 30mm electric motor is powerful enough, I use it with anamorphot lens that weighs over 300 grams without problems, but more than 600 grams could start giving problems, which is why I want to build a system with guides in linear bearings, for reduce friction and facilitate sliding of the lens.
No, NXL-A is the best full frame Canon lens control system for directors and film makers who shoot with Samsung nx1 camera.
It also keeps them alive yet these cameras ...
It will be ready in about two weeks and I'll build a dumb NXL version with the predisposition for the hardware and an already modified version.

Funny that you're asking about this technique, I was just barely reading about it, browsing reddit earlier today some dude shot a cool little John Wick-like action piece in his apartment by himself, rocked a little snorricam, someone linked to this video in the comments, obviously pretty DIY, but maybe good enough to at least get some test shots.
 
 

The Rokinon 12mm f/2 is a great lens, very small and light, I've used it on a GH4 quite a bit and liked it. Recently I've also seen some test footage from Laowa's new 7.5mm f/2 which looks very impressive, and definitely solves "the wide-angle issue" of micro 4/3. 

EDIT: Well, I should have read the post better, you say you don't like the exaggerated look of those ultra wide angles, my bad! Best of luck and happy shopping.

When I started to think about building a smart autofocus adapter, I asked you if you preferred the Techart Pro adapter or Aputure Dec AF.
Almost all of you have responded Techart Pro, and in fact, to have an autofocus system that works with all lenses that's cool!
So I started to think what could be a fast way to have it in the real world and not in the world of dreams ..
The 30mm f2 pancake is long 21.5mm (half a millimeter longer of adapter Nikon/NX), it has no buttons OIS, Zoom or another, it's just a fixed lens which has two functions:
1) Autofocus
2) Iris.
These characteristics make it the perfect candidate to become an AF adapter.
First I ceck the range of focus, it is 6mm (Techart Pro it's only 4,5mm).

 
After I disassembled the rear flange, I raised the board and looked inside, the electric motor is positioned laterally and all the gears rotate the rear part of the ferrule, the main gear is located in the rear part of the lens, and this is good, why not cluttered and provides more space for mounting the front lens.


Inside there is the motor for the opening of the iris and is parallel to the support cylinder for glasses.
In general, having taken the measurements, I can state that it is possible to convert the lens in a 30mm AF adapter.
if there is enough space, you can install the pin Canon EF mount on the front of the commands to activate Stabilizer and Aperture Iris with micro Arduino.

Up to here I made simple but to obtain an AF adapter is necessary to construct a new outer ring of aluminum with two or three linear bearings to support the weight of the new lenses, build a new internal support in aluminum with front flange of the lens assembly and perhaps replace some plastic with new gears in aluminum gear.
The width of engagement Nikon is ok, but the width of the Canon is greater, then I have to redesign the whole body.
Such a change could cost about 400 euro, this could be a bargain for those with a 30mm, but considering the prices soared Samsung lenses may exceed 650 euro for a complete adapter.
Having a third-party adapter with AF lenses is possible.
This is only one of the possibilities, I have other ideas and solutions to build AF adapter.
I wrote this post to know from you what you think.
 

The Rokinon 12mm f/2 is a great lens, very small and light, I've used it on a GH4 quite a bit and liked it. Recently I've also seen some test footage from Laowa's new 7.5mm f/2 which looks very impressive, and definitely solves "the wide-angle issue" of micro 4/3. 

EDIT: Well, I should have read the post better, you say you don't like the exaggerated look of those ultra wide angles, my bad! Best of luck and happy shopping.

@Gregormannschaft I have used the crane with an a7sII and a Nikkor 28mm AIS lens quite a bit, without any problems, and gotten some pretty awesome results. The extra stability from the IBIS definitely provides a smoother look than with my NX cameras for example. You can still see the screen pretty good too, just tilted up a bit, so it's not like you're flying blind.

The Rokinon 12mm f/2 is a great lens, very small and light, I've used it on a GH4 quite a bit and liked it. Recently I've also seen some test footage from Laowa's new 7.5mm f/2 which looks very impressive, and definitely solves "the wide-angle issue" of micro 4/3. 

EDIT: Well, I should have read the post better, you say you don't like the exaggerated look of those ultra wide angles, my bad! Best of luck and happy shopping.

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I have been working with a digital logic analyzer and an Arduino nano.  Via this setup I can set the aperture and move the focus to min and max so far.  So the setup is
For gathering data: Canon Camera + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens, I have wired the extension tube to sample the data via a USB digital logic anlyzer. 
For testing my control: Arduino Nano + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens (no body for now).  So the aperture and focus max and min are working as controlled by the nano. 
Next step: NX camera + NX extension tube with AF contacts + Arduino Nano  and use the digital logic analyzer to find the focus commands from the camera, also spoof the lens data.  Here is where ihkim's work will be a big help with the lens initialisation, to hopefully successfully spoof the lens in a way the camera accepts. 
Final case: NX camera signal to contacts on close end EF -> NX adapter, these wired to the nano, then from the nano to the contacts on the other side of the adapter, then to the lens.  Then replace the adapter with wired NX-L for focal reduction. 
Stabilization seems to work automatically for the lenses I've tried, but I think the EF-M mount lenses don't have physical switches, but these are not among the lenses we're adapting. 
My 10k offer still stands for anyone that can provide native-like camera driven AF.  The Apurture DEC does not do this, as I understand it doesn't listen to the camera half at all, in which case I'm only a few buttons away from doing the same with the nano (add button to repeat change focus command one way, another the other way, same for aperture).  Wifi would be a bunch of work though, but while nice it isn't on my own wish list.  The nano will allow more programmatic control, 2,3,4, etc... focus locations could be toggled, it's mostly a matter of adding physical inputs and writing logic into the nano code to handle them.  As I look back to your image of the upcoming system, the contacts are going to go just from the Apurture to the lens, I also need to get to the camera contacts somehow.  What I need is camera -> Apurture and Apurture -> lens (but with my nano instead of the Apurture).  With the current NX-L design I'm not sure how to get at the camera contacts, running wires even with a hole drilled through isn't great because of the rotating design, so they can be stressed or break if it rotates too far.  Solutions that come to mind would complicate the design quite a bit further (e.g. concentric rings for each contact on that part that rotates). 
That would be great, can you PM me the address, I didn't keep the packaging they arrived in so I lost the return address. 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. 
Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck! 

@mercer I used to have a 70D that I used with ML, including on some paid projects. Lenses with IS work just fine with raw recording, either MLV or the older RAW files, there's no difference. I never noticed any battery issues either, seemed the same to me, and yes, aperture priority would work just fine. Basically, magically lantern doesn't prevent you from doing anything the camera already does normally. 
Granted, this was a couple of years ago that I was using it, they were nightly builds right after the 70D port was released, I sold the camera shortly thereafter, but if you have to use a canon dslr, ML is the only thing that makes it remotely tolerable to use in my opinion, especially the peaking, zebras, audio meters, and built in time lapse functions. Raw with sexy dual pixel af is definitely pretty sweet tho! Best of luck. 

So, this is my last project. I also have some problems with shadows. If place is dark, the shadows and blacks just broke. Shot with sigma 30mm 1.4 and samsung 16mm.
 

Something different : anamorphic nx1, anamorphic lens : Kowa for Bell & Howell and talking lens : Konica-Hexanon 40mm f/1.8 (no hack sadly).
 

The next step will be NXL EOS lens control.
My dream is get the Samsung NX1 like a Canon 1D X MKII... Just better!