Dustin

Thanks man! I’ve given it a second thought- I have a spare shower curtain and a mic stand I could drape that over and try shooting the 528 through that setup. 
 
Thankful for this communities quick encouragement!

Another possibility... you could use a softbox and grid on your light panel to soften and control the light, then have it push through a second diffuser frame/panel etc. The grid will help combat the spill. I bought this frame for around £35 on amazon a few years back. Unbleached muslin on top of the standard diffusion.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-Reflector-5in1-Flag-Panel-80x100cm-Photography-Multi-Studio-Frame-Diffuser/372671319007?hash=item56c4f10bdf:g:tgAAAOSwkLtc3WAS

quick and dirty test with the setup

 
Best of luck mate

Yeah T-shirts are too dense. Bouncing is probably the easiest way you just need negative fill. 

Foam-board can be purchased on the cheap and it makes for a great a bounce.
I would also recommend some Unbleached muslin. Wraps around the skin nicely.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

No need to invest in better gear, it's simply a matter of knowing how to use it properly.
That's a great idea.
T-shirts may be a bit too dense and thick, that's why you lost so much power.
A translucent shower curtain is a way better solution.

Not only it's bigger (bigger diffusion → softer source), but also lets through more light. You can get it for a couple of dollars.
 
Another good recommendation.
Bouncing LEDs off a big surface greatly improves softness of lighting, but it's crucial to control the spill.
 
Providing some videos, photos or at least a diagram of your lighting setup would help us help you, since right now we can only imagine what you did.
 
I really recommend taking a look at some Behind The Shoots, etc.
For example:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B7oFetnA_qZ/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxWHJhVH8SO/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Be2weUMAFkV/
 
It's nothing groundbreaking, just the things I was talking about - diffusing a LED panel with some shower curtain, placing some white bounce to wrap the light around the subject, putting some flags to kill the spill, and, finally, black curtains on surfaces which could reflect the light.
Gear isn't the deciding factor. Owning Aputure 300D wouldn't help you, at all.

Check out Spencer Sakuri’s YouTube channel. I believe he uses vintage FD lenses on his test with this. 

I have to say you guys should check out the Negative Lab Pro Facebook group, guys are using their mirror less and light setups and getting excellent results. Honestly I’ve used my plustek and gotten fantastic results that were as good as the lab, just takes time on the colors. 
I agree with @BenEricson unless you have 1-2 hours a roll to devote to scanning, support a lab! I use mail my film out in a prepaid mailer and use Old School Photo Lab but there are tons of labs. The darkroom is another popular one. My current 35mm setup is a Nikon FE2 with a 28mm, 50mm and 100mm e series primes. 

Agreed. Even if you have loads of time, it is nearly impossible to get the same color and texture that you get with the high end scanners. 
This scanner is really good but only does 35mm. I’ve heard a lot of people swear by it. The output really simulates what a 35mm print should look like. Correct colors etc. 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202603055965
I personally would rather support a local lab and get my scans back in 2/3 days via email. I’m shooting 120 and 35 so the price for high end scanners would be too costly for it to make sense. 

I actually shoot 35mm film on the regular. It’s fun and the images look fantastic. I own a plustek 8100 film scanner, which I use vuescan to scan my images and a Lightroom app called Negative Lab Pro to convert. That said the process takes me 1.5 hours, so unless I have time to scan, I usually opt to have scans done by a lab for about $14. (Less if you give more rolls).
Many NLP users make their own scanner with a light table, macro lens and camera and the scanning process is much faster than my plustek. Film is very much still alive in 2020.

Check out Spencer Sakuri’s YouTube channel. I believe he uses vintage FD lenses on his test with this. 

Check out Spencer Sakuri’s YouTube channel. I believe he uses vintage FD lenses on his test with this. 

I usually have to watch 9 YouTube videos to get the information I could read in a single paragraph on a blog post... Always remember that the message is the medium. Certain people are good at certain mediums, and some people suit other ones. I prefer to write and shoot. I don't enjoy presenting. So this is a fundamental choice to make if you want to set out on a YouTube adventure. You may be better putting your talents into a written blog instead. The big reason people like Peter McKinnon and Philip Bloom suit YouTube and have made it successfully in that medium, is that they are both big on presentation and charisma. If you add that to the lusted after skills they seem to demonstrate and their glitzy lifestyles with thousands upon thousands of dollars of gear, then you start to see how there is a strong element of showbiz to it all, which allows them to take over so much airtime.
The truth is that this is an unrealistic job for 99.9% of the population. Thankfully there are far more paths than just this to getting noticed as a filmmaker.

It’s supposed to be announced next week, still no reliable leaks.
I don’t really know what to expect.
From the current EOS R, I’d like Nocrop 4k up to 60p, 10bit 422internal, 1080p120, IBIS, and dual slot. Of course, Dual pixel in every mode. Less that 2500€ and released in april.
It’s not that much, and it will hurt Sony who gave us nothing interesting for two years,
Come on Canon, you can do it 😁

It's hard to beat G80 for its price. If you don't need AF or 120p it is still a pretty decent camera. Get some nice manual lenses to go along with and you will be set. 

Thanks for posting.
Personally, the S1H looks "best" on my monitor. Maybe a tad too much magenta in the skintones for my taste, but I think it could easily be tamed. In general, I like just a VERY slight skew toward magenta in the blues, which the S1H seems to have.
Of course, this is completely subjective.

Yeah the Mavo LF did look really amazing though. 

Just opening this to start off the discussion of the Z-CAM E2 models.
I shot with one for the first time at IBC in 2019 and will bring you some footage from the full frame 6K version of the Z-CAM 2

If that camera was rolling, then Blackmagic missed an entire marketing aspect for the P4K... time travel filmmaking.
And even if they were rolling, we have no idea what audio equipment they were using or what the settings were. The mic could have been too hot, so they had to back off. Their main audio could have been from a lav and the boom was a back up.
And finally, wouldn't it be a lot more constructive to hear the audio before criticizing the manner in which they did it?

Would definitely be nice to have more assignable buttons. The 4-way d-pad and AEL button, perhaps also Tone and Colour are not programmable at the moment... Well, the AEL button is but only AE related stuff and focus magnification, that's it.
I'd like also to be able to assign shutter button to take stills in Cine mode, and in stills mode assign video mode button to something else entirely.
The SL2 also has a lack of func. buttons but gets around it with a very clever menu system and User profiles. I can flick through my user profiles for different video modes and LOG at a single touch of a button and wheel of a dial.
----
I am thinking of making a Review template on EOSHD so I can give an at-a-glance summary of a camera, and a review sections drop down box like DPReview reviews. Open to suggestions. The colour-coded summary table could cover as an example:
Max resolution, max frame rate, sensor size (i.e. 4K/60p, FF)
Max bitrate, codec options (ALL-I, Long GOP, 400Mbit)
Max bit-depth (10bit)
RAW video (Yes, external)
Media type (SD)
Low light cam? ISO 6400 maximum usable
Rolling shutter: Lower than average, average, higher than average
Autofocus: Phase-detect in video mode
AF reliable?: Yes
IBIS: Yes
Menus: Bad / average / good
Battery: Bad / average / good
Build: Bad / average / good
Character and "feel": Generic / OK / Special
Colour science / skintones: Bad, modifiable to good / average / good / Alexa style good
LOG: Yes/no
View Assist: Yes/no
LUT preview: Yes/no
Rec. limit: 29 min
EVF: Yes / no
 
And so on...
Would be good to have a database of cameras too, in future.

If you are seeing this cat...

Then it means the move to the new server has worked for you.
Good news. No more cats.
Bad news. No more cats?
EOSHD now lives in the cloud. Faster speeds no matter where you are on Earth.
Please let me know if you see any bugs.

via GIPHY
 

McKinnons video was not a very good demonstration of the 1D-X Mk3

fuji xt3 if you can stretch that far.
oh sorry didn't read the whole thread if you absolutely need IBIS then one of the Panasonics. Otherwise xt3 with I.S. lens is hard to beat

Hey all! After taking many of the good suggestions into considerations- I believe I will be selling my a6500 kit. It meets many of my needs but not all of them! With that money I am eyeing reinvesting into a (used) g85, GH5 or G9. Unless anyone else has similar suggestions! 
G85, is currently making the most sense as the profit I would net from my a6500 kit would allow me to reinvest in lenses (even though I love my Nikon primes they aren’t always the best fit!). Curious to hear your thoughts! For me, decent 4K codec, ibis, tolerable rolling shutter, slow mo options (60p or 120) and good color science with a flat profile, are my chief concerns. 

The good news is that the "normal FoV" native lens to replace your 35mm is the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 which is very cheaply priced. 

@IronFilm I appreciate your thoughts man! This would indeed allow me to pick up a kit well under budget. Seems like I could pick up a body really cheap then have money left over to buy a nice lens and rig. One option for sure!