richg101

Wow, nice heads up! Really need some new Pocket & Canon batteries - 2yr warranty, free postage & local too (for me anyways).

I'm pretty sure you won't loose a contract because of not complying to 4K. If it looks good in 1080p, upscale it in post to 4K if the client requires it.
If it looks good in 1080p, it'll still look good on any screen

I haven't even acknowledged those comments because he's deluded.  There's nothing wrong with his camera.  My pocket reacts exactly how his does - as does every other bmpcc.  All his actions do is increase the price of future products from BM because they have to add costs for the idiot factor.  
 
BM's customer service personel:-
"We got another email from a customer expecting his camera to perform with a iphone torch as lighting.  What should I do boss?"
BM's customer service manager:-
"just send him another one.  Don't bother wasting Mr Petty's time.   The sooner we get his unit back, the less time he can spend shooting crap 'low light tests' and uploading them to youtube"

 

You can buy stick-on buttons in various colours that will likely fit.  maybe look for stick on rubber feet for hi-fi furniture and the like.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Round-Rubber-Foot-Self-Adhesive-Black-Feet-RF05-Size-6mm-WIDE-x-3mm-HIGH-/191688158450?hash=item2ca1812cf2:g:3i0AAOxyPc5SAhXY
 

as superb as @Brian Caldwell 's glass is, I've found that on nearly every speed booster I've used or modified the optical cell is usually not perfectly concentrically aligned in the metalwork.  the small set screw that prevents the cell rotating pushes the optics off centre and also at an angle (skewed) meaning the projected image doesn't fall onto the sensor perfectly flat.  so centre will be sharp and corners will be out of focus.   - one side will be focused forward of the in focus middle and the other side will be focused behind the in focus middle area.
 
my fix has been to remove the set screw all together, remove the lens cell, and then apply a heavier grease which fills the threads more effectively - this means the set screw is no longer needed since the cell wont rotate or move unless you physically adjust it by hand.  
 
if you want to see what I mean, follow metabones's instructions on how to adjust the back focus of the speed booster: http://www.metabones.com/article/of/infinity-adjustment-speed-booster-only 
you'll see that when you untighten/tighten the setting screw the cell will shift sideways as the screw makes contact with it.  i think it's because the thread between the optical cell and the metabones adaptor metal work is a bit too loose allowing wobble/skew of the optics.  The application of a heavy silicone based grease fills the thread up so the optic is perfectly centred.  Only then do you obtain the best from the glass in these great adaptors
 
Obviously without a locking screw the cell is prone to adjust through hand contact if you regularly remove and fit the adaptor, but if it remains on the camera all the time the cell won;t ever change its optimal position. 

I've been really liking using my nikkor 50mil along with cheap wide angle and telephoto adapters. It wouldn't be for everyone of course, but looking at it like staying on a budget and minimal gear, works for me. The attachments actually kind of give it interesting "character" wide open for portraits, and at 5.6 they're really sharp. Since it's a fullframe lens at a long ish focal length, on an apsc body, I think I avoid most of the possible terrible corners. The wide angle has some barrel distortion, but fine by my standards. Plus for color and contrast they all still match really well together. I know that's kind of cheating
I was thinking if I went smaller sensor I'd get a 24 or 28 mil and keep the adapters and get the coverage I like and only spend like $80 more.

yep.  as a aps-c user the 35mm/2 is a must have.  Imagine you took the 35mm/2 you;re used to using on m4/3 and aps-c then used it on full frame for the next widest option.  If a particular full frame fast 35mm can deliver good resolution on m4/3 for short tele work, it'll do great for 'normal' on aps-c and 'wide' on full frame.
The nice thing about the summicron is that it's nicely controlled in terms of fringing on high contrast edges.  so you can take full advantage of the big aperture.  I expect the loxia 35/2 will be even better than the summicron for a single lens option of full frame!
 

if I was limited to one lens from here on, it would be the helios 44.  There are plenty of lenses I love.  but only one that I couldn;t do without and that's the 58mm/2.
for a 'working lens' that will deliver almost every conceivable shot I'd go for the summicron-r 35mm/2 on a full frame sensor.  shooting full frame 4k on an a7rii gives you the ability to use full sensor for your wide, aps-c for your normal and crop in a bit more with clear image zoom for a tele.  a lot will wonder why the summicron vs any other 35mm/2..  it's because very few other full frame 35mm/2's deliver good enough resolution and image quality wide open.
 
with a summicron-r the iq is good enough to use wide open on full frame.  using sensor crop of a nice clean 4k full frame area gives similar look to a 50mm at 2.8 when at aps-c and an 85mm/4 when windowed in to just under fullhd's worth of pixels.

First sony hack unlocks time limit and language selection
http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/216902#Comment_216902
The hack works with an app. 

I'd suggest as the producer he finds the extra $500 a day for an alexa mini and get his money's worth out of any anamorphics he's fitting to the camera (which will cost a lot more in rental than the camera).  makes no sense renting anamorphics if you can't use their full image circle.  a 3k image area on the ursa sensor is a 1.5x crop of an alexa mini in 4:3 mode!   The $500 saving on camera rental is moot.  

I'd suggest as the producer he finds the extra $500 a day for an alexa mini and get his money's worth out of any anamorphics he's fitting to the camera (which will cost a lot more in rental than the camera).  makes no sense renting anamorphics if you can't use their full image circle.  a 3k image area on the ursa sensor is a 1.5x crop of an alexa mini in 4:3 mode!   The $500 saving on camera rental is moot.  

they'll sell more of these to be used as directors viewfinders / recon scouting cameras on high end productions than you'll see ravens or terras used in high end sets.  The best dop's are usually very accomplished stills photographers and will lap this up - if only for the leica badge.  If L-Log and the sensor readout is good then this will be rather popular for actual productions too. - adaptability of lens mount, and a sensor size that will render closer representation of the fov/dof of a RED 8K Weapon or Alexa65 then current offerings. - if kipon produce a SL mount version of their MF focal reducer things get even more suitable for use as a scout cam for the alexa65

I still find it weird.

So people are going to buy a Raven or Terra for Stills....

I expect this could be very very damaging to the likes of RED.  not so much Arri since they still deliver the top dog in terms of cameras.  But the fact that this little Terra shoots 6k and has a focal reducer pretty much means it outdoes everything except the upcoming 8k Dragon/Weapon.  The 1 stop increase in low light probably allows cleaner low light results too.  Looking at what I;ve seen from the Kinemax, it looks to me as good as I could ever imagine anyone needing for even the highest end productions.  The Terra uses exactly the same sensor so will likely deliver the same image.
You could buy 3 terras that are ready to shoot for the same price as a ready to shoot low end RED..  And even if the image were half as good as from a dragon sensor people looking at scarlets and ravens will now be looking at this little camera. and seeing $5000 extra in their bank for investment in lenses or other gear
 

Looks a bit like a 3D Design / product design university student major project to me.    Just looking at those renders makes me weep at how many of the mechanical aspects need to be fulfilled flawlessly.  It's all very well drawing something novel and pretty, but making them is another matter.  That sucker looks like they'd need a Sony R+D budget to pull it off at their expected price.  The reason the RED modularity works is that they price their gear to allow for the tremendous costs associated with making them work properly.  
I hope I'm wrong and they deliver because if they don;t I can see a handful of optimistic early adopters being very disappointed.

Looks a bit like a 3D Design / product design university student major project to me.    Just looking at those renders makes me weep at how many of the mechanical aspects need to be fulfilled flawlessly.  It's all very well drawing something novel and pretty, but making them is another matter.  That sucker looks like they'd need a Sony R+D budget to pull it off at their expected price.  The reason the RED modularity works is that they price their gear to allow for the tremendous costs associated with making them work properly.  
I hope I'm wrong and they deliver because if they don;t I can see a handful of optimistic early adopters being very disappointed.

Blackmagic Design have announced an affordable 4K recorder and 7″ monitor. Unlike the existing solutions on the market, the View Assist 4K records to UHS-2 SD cards and costs under $1k.
Read the full blog post

Also adds an 'auto' setting to the electronically variable ND filter.
Released May 2016.
Read the full blog post

remove from the metal housing and wrap the element in masking tape
draw a line down the middle
drill lots of holes along the line using a glass/ceramic drill bit - like an arrow head shaped drill bit - make sure the elements are in a shallow pool of water to aid cooling/lubrication during drilling.  don;t apply pressure - let the drill do the work.  high speed, use a battery powered drill for safety - 230volts and water don't go!
using a tile cutting fret saw slowly cut along the line - the drilled holes will mean you have less material to physically cut through
using very high quality 'wet and dry' glass paper from 240 grit down to around 1000grit to grind the edge flat.  the courser the paper, the more likely you are of chipping the edge so go steady when using he course grades.  grind 'edge ways' not 'across' to avoid chipping
once flat, apply a very fine chamfer to the cut edge using 1000 grit wet so remove any tiny chips.
thin down some enamel matte black paint and apply to the ground edge - thinning will mean the paint natirally absorbs into the frosted ground edge
dry in oven for an hour at 90degrees

 
since the cheaper single element diopters from vivitar are crown glass they are less prone to chipping  start on the diopter you;re less likely to actually use so you can practice.
 
DO NOT attempt this with cemented doublets!  you'll think you;re doing really well, then when that drill bit gets through the first layer and hits the second it'll shatter.

remove from the metal housing and wrap the element in masking tape
draw a line down the middle
drill lots of holes along the line using a glass/ceramic drill bit - like an arrow head shaped drill bit - make sure the elements are in a shallow pool of water to aid cooling/lubrication during drilling.  don;t apply pressure - let the drill do the work.  high speed, use a battery powered drill for safety - 230volts and water don't go!
using a tile cutting fret saw slowly cut along the line - the drilled holes will mean you have less material to physically cut through
using very high quality 'wet and dry' glass paper from 240 grit down to around 1000grit to grind the edge flat.  the courser the paper, the more likely you are of chipping the edge so go steady when using he course grades.  grind 'edge ways' not 'across' to avoid chipping
once flat, apply a very fine chamfer to the cut edge using 1000 grit wet so remove any tiny chips.
thin down some enamel matte black paint and apply to the ground edge - thinning will mean the paint natirally absorbs into the frosted ground edge
dry in oven for an hour at 90degrees

 
since the cheaper single element diopters from vivitar are crown glass they are less prone to chipping  start on the diopter you;re less likely to actually use so you can practice.
 
DO NOT attempt this with cemented doublets!  you'll think you;re doing really well, then when that drill bit gets through the first layer and hits the second it'll shatter.

remove from the metal housing and wrap the element in masking tape
draw a line down the middle
drill lots of holes along the line using a glass/ceramic drill bit - like an arrow head shaped drill bit - make sure the elements are in a shallow pool of water to aid cooling/lubrication during drilling.  don;t apply pressure - let the drill do the work.  high speed, use a battery powered drill for safety - 230volts and water don't go!
using a tile cutting fret saw slowly cut along the line - the drilled holes will mean you have less material to physically cut through
using very high quality 'wet and dry' glass paper from 240 grit down to around 1000grit to grind the edge flat.  the courser the paper, the more likely you are of chipping the edge so go steady when using he course grades.  grind 'edge ways' not 'across' to avoid chipping
once flat, apply a very fine chamfer to the cut edge using 1000 grit wet so remove any tiny chips.
thin down some enamel matte black paint and apply to the ground edge - thinning will mean the paint natirally absorbs into the frosted ground edge
dry in oven for an hour at 90degrees

 
since the cheaper single element diopters from vivitar are crown glass they are less prone to chipping  start on the diopter you;re less likely to actually use so you can practice.
 
DO NOT attempt this with cemented doublets!  you'll think you;re doing really well, then when that drill bit gets through the first layer and hits the second it'll shatter.