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Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!


Andrew Reid
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19 hours ago, tonysss said:

Master Pedestal +5

i.dynamic - standard

i.resolution - OFF

Luminance level 16-235

Photo style: NATURAL 0,-5,-5,-2,0

And important -  AWB adjust. A:6 !!!

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I really like the colour from Natural, but I think it is for low contrast situations and has less dynamic range and lower saturation than other profiles. Reduced luminance will make high contrast situations worse for natural. Master Pedestal is for matching different cameras. Changing it will also reduce your available dynamic range. Reducing saturation in natural profile is not ideal. 

As @hyalinejim suggests the Leeming Lut One for Cine-D gives you a starting point for any grade or tweaks that is really solid. It also fixes the black and shadow areas without touching the masterped.

Three questions would be

how do you do white balance (auto is ok)

are you using a calibrated monitor - eg. spyder5

and how do you play back files (in browser, vlc, other players) and if you take a tiff frame export from your timeline does it look the same as what you see in the video viewers.

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13 hours ago, hyalinejim said:

Maybe you could consider purchasing Leeming Lut One for Cine-D? It will give you accurate colours straight out of the box.

By using A:6 you're pushing all hues to orange. But the relationship between them will still be just as skewed. Leeming's luts will reallocate the spread of hues and saturation to match a standard Colorchecker.

It should solve the green skin problem.

 

Leemig Lut One, I bought it a few weeks ago :-)  and the picture is dark!  And the fact that GH5 is set to a higher exposure (Leeming requires it)  Then are wrong with Panasonic skin tones !

Yes, But the GH5 has a completely different sensor like the G80, believe me, I also had the G80And my GX80 has better skin color as GH5 :-) And cinelike D on GH5 makes radioactive green and the picture is yellow! And dynamic range is not growing, only iDynamic "secretly" turns on, I think.

Cinelike D (GH5) I think, does nothing but lightly pull down the highlights, and pull up shadows using iDynamic. Important for GH5 is Luminance level 16-235, the all dynamic range of the sensor , is squeeze them values 16-235 ! With this setting I have the greatest dynamic range and real skin tones. I have G80 and GX80 and GH5. Pan G80 and gx80 is the same , but GH5 is different. Sensor and processing.

I'm probably going to buy Canon :-))  Or try V-log

 

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2 minutes ago, tonysss said:

And the fact that GH5 is set to a higher exposure (Leeming requires it)  Then are wrong with Panasonic skin tones !

The skin tones you get with Leeming's lut are actually colorimetrically accurate, according to his methodology. But not all people (myself included) find accurate colours pleasing.

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19 minutes ago, Orangenz said:

I really like the colour from Natural, but I think it is for low contrast situations and has less dynamic range and lower saturation than other profiles. Reduced luminance will make high contrast situations worse for natural. Master Pedestal is for matching different cameras. Changing it will also reduce your available dynamic range. Reducing saturation in natural profile is not ideal. 

As @hyalinejim suggests the Leeming Lut One for Cine-D gives you a starting point for any grade or tweaks that is really solid. It also fixes the black and shadow areas without touching the masterped.

Three questions would be

how do you do white balance (auto is ok)

are you using a calibrated monitor - eg. spyder5

and how do you play back files (in browser, vlc, other players) and if you take a tiff frame export from your timeline does it look the same as what you see in the video viewers.

i have Mac Retina, FCPX, and camera mostly Auto WB.

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19 minutes ago, tonysss said:

i have Mac Retina, FCPX, and camera mostly Auto WB.

Well your point about everything being dark and radioactive makes it sound like u little crazy lol. Shoot some cine-d, follow the shooting and setup instructions, take some tif frame exports, post them here. 

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7 hours ago, hyalinejim said:

Read it again:

My emphasis added, for your benefit.

Thanks, way more clear now ...but you also wrote this

Quote

 you could consider purchasing Leeming Lut One for Cine-D? It will give you accurate colours straight out of the box.

...and I always wondered how that is even possible as the LUT doesn't have a clue what lens or lens combination in the case of a speedbooster I used.

 

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9 minutes ago, bunk said:

Thanks, way more clear now ...but you also wrote this

...and I always wondered how that is even possible as the LUT doesn't have a clue what lens or lens combination in the case of a speedbooster I used.

 

Theoretically people can't clap their hands and yet in practise most of us can. How is it possible to see things when I open my eyes? I don't know! But BOOM there the world is. The LUT is a tool and many people have found it useful. That's all. It's not like it's homeopathy or something. 

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1 hour ago, Orangenz said:

Theoretically people can't clap their hands and yet in practise most of us can. How is it possible to see things when I open my eyes? I don't know! But BOOM there the world is. The LUT is a tool and many people have found it useful. That's all. It's not like it's homeopathy or something. 

I've been using the X-Rite ColorChecker now for the past few days, and when used in combination with Color Finale's color match feature in Final Cut Pro, I'm also able to get a great starting point for making minor color corrections, grading, adding LUTs, whatever.  The X-Rite ColorChecker Video Passport and Color Finale together run around USD $230.00, but I think it's well worth it considering the time saved and the results I'm seeing. 

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Here's a comparison between the Leeming LUT and the X-Rite ColorChecker, Color Finale in FCPX. 1) original clip 2) Leeming LUT 3) Color Match in Color Finale with slight luminance adjustment and color adjustments. Using the X-Rite and Color Finale in FCPX gets me close to the color I want in just seconds.

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 3.44.10 PM.png

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 3.44.56 PM.png

 

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 3.48.00 PM.png

 

 

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40 minutes ago, jonpais said:

Here's a comparison between the Leeming LUT and the X-Rite ColorChecker, Color Finale in FCPX. 1) original clip 2) Leeming LUT 3) Color Match in Color Finale with slight luminance adjustment and color adjustments. Using the X-Rite and Color Finale in FCPX gets me close to the color I want in just seconds.

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 3.48.00 PM.png

 

3rd piccy missing?

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16 minutes ago, Orangenz said:

3rd piccy missing?

The 'add media' function on this site sucks. It keeps saying 'upload failed', then when you cancel the post and go back to edit it again, the failed uploads magically appear! In this case, maybe one disappeared. :(  Here's one that is closer to the look I wanted, but a bit dark. Oh well! Anyone who's seen all the orange/red/yellow clips I've posted in the past will see that this is a quantum leap in my small world of color correction. It should be noted that the Leeming LUT is not a color correction tool per se - it just adjusts the color balance of Cinelike D to the rec709 standard. The color match feature in Color Finale is great for fools like me who don't know magenta from cyan.

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 4.29.53 PM.png

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Practically every single serious filmmaking site scoffs at AWB and strongly encourages manually white balancing. But it takes me as long as a minute to manually white balance a shot, and even then, after all my efforts, my colors are still off. I'm wondering now whether it might not be a better use of my time to simply shoot using AWB and include a couple seconds of the ColorChecker at the beginning of each clip, then let the software work its magic in FCP, rather than getting my panties all in a bunch. What do you think?

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Just now, fuzzynormal said:

Better, I think, to turn to a set collection of "kelvins" to use.

3200, 5600, something a little cooler, something a little warmer.

AWB will drift and adjust as a shot changes.  

Right, that's one reason I don't use AWB - the color will change even when you don't notice the light changing at all. Perhaps one of the presets? Cloudy, shady, sunny?

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3 minutes ago, jonpais said:

Right, that's one reason I don't use AWB - the color will change even when you don't notice the light changing at all. Perhaps one of the presets? Cloudy, shady, sunny?

Presets are fine. You can also make your own C3 set to compensate against some of the funkier typical indoor lighting "spike" situations in SE Asia..if not a horribly purple fluorescent, it seems like it's a cheap green LED...

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