mnewxcv

But are we not considering that maybe it's possible the camera was his pre-order, or the fact that he was director, actor, and producer for a few films in Hong Kong?
I hoped you were past all that since you decided to go with the X-T3, guess not ?
 

You're probably right about him not receiving a pre-order, but the guy does have a few feature films in Hong Kong, maybe that was his ticket?  Either way, he's got camera, and we dont make those decisions... ?‍♂️ Your post make it seem like you'd be happy if no one get's the camera because you didn't.
Anyway, It's your site, I'll leave you to it. No more responses from me on the matter.
 

The main thing I wish it had was IBIS. The one thing I love about my NX1 is it has digital image stabilization, which isn't even sensor stabilization, but works very well for handheld shots. Seeing how shaky that video posted a few pages back was (and I'm not shitting on the person who shot it or the person who released it. as far as I am concerned, more is better when talking about footage from an unreleased camera), it seems like handholding it is going to require quite steady hands. Will have to see how the OiS lenses do alone.

Not missing anything, no. Just hear to talk cameras. 

Not missing anything, no. Just hear to talk cameras. 

Not missing anything, no. Just hear to talk cameras. 

Not missing anything, no. Just hear to talk cameras. 

I assume it means you cannot capture to SD/cFast as well as SSD at the same time.

Just trying to keep the thread on topic, captain. 

Just trying to keep the thread on topic, captain. 

In raw - yes. In prores it is downsampled 1080p (meaning you get the full sensor width), unless you're shooting 120fps in which case it will be a 2x crop again.

For single cam stuff, I have been really trying to minimize my kit. I have recently been using the Case Logic SLR Sling. It fits my NX1 with 16-50 on it, a 45mm, a fisheye, 5 memory cards, stuff to clean the camera lenses, grey cards and xrite color checker passport, an on camera mic, battery grip, battery charger, some earbuds, and usb cables. 

 
For stuff that needs more gear or cameras, I have a Lowepro Photo Trekker Backpack. It fits EVERYTHING I will ever need. Fits 2 NX1s, 1 NX500, 5 different lenses, 2 mics, 2 sets of headphones, chargers for everything, external hard drives, extension cords, you name it. 

Did BMD claim that? 
I think it was only JB who said that, and as he isn't actually part of BMD then no surprise if he is out of the loop and he says something slightly inaccurate. Seeing as these Asian unboxing videos did come out merely a handful of hours or so ago. 

Thread is temporarily locked to allow tempers to cool. Will be reopened tomorrow.

I've been debating picking up the e1 since they're really fair in price. I know it has its limitations, but compared to a go pro in situations that don't need a plastic enclosure or waterproofing, there seems to be a lot in its favor. 

The cameras aren't out yet, but I downloaded test clips from the Z cam website and the facebook group. The 4k 120 fps is absolutely stunning, honestly looks like better quality than the 4k out of the NX1: perhaps less sharpening, and significantly less noise reduction. Z-Log is actually really easy to grade. And the best part is it was only 170 Mbps! As much as the P4K footage looks phenomenal, for 1/10 the data rate and very similar output, the E2 looks like the only camera I'd consider as an upgrade to the NX1 so far.

Ah, interesting, I didn't see this when I posted before. Good to know!
Also, incidentally, I was just playing with the H.265 clips from the Z Cam E2 and they worked flawlessly in Resolve Free on Windows 10. So it seems that the color cast issue is specifically from NX1 footage.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13249/nvidia-announces-geforce-rtx-20-series-rtx-2080-ti-2080-2070
 
Way back in the early 2000's I remember doing basic ray tracing with my personal PC, it was very very very very very slooooow. Is cool there are now mainstream consumer cards which are specifically targeted to doing this, & in real time! Astonishing.
 
https://thenextweb.com/artificial-intelligence/2018/08/20/nvidia-reveals-its-rtx-graphics-cards-with-game-changing-ray-tracing-tech/
 
https://venturebeat.com/2018/08/20/nvidia-unveils-geforce-rtx-graphics-chips-for-real-time-ray-tracing-games/


But will it play Crysis?

Finally feeling better...woo hoo! Here are this week's new free tracks:
"Paper Route" (Looping)
on my Chiptunes 2 page.
http://soundimage.org/chiptunes-2/
"Break In" (Looping)
on my City/Urban 2 page.
http://soundimage.org/city-urban-2/
"Caribbean Skies" (intended for aerial videos)
on my Events/Travel 2 page.
http://soundimage.org/events-travel-2/
"Fishbowl Romance" (Looping)
on my Fantasy 8 page.
http://soundimage.org/fantasy-8/
and "Stranded in the Asteroid Belt"
on my Sci-Fi 6 page.
http://soundimage.org/sci-fi-6/
Enjoy and have a good weekend!

Let me try to be clear. By using rgb boost in gamma Dr, I did not achieve more stops of dynamic range. However, it appeared that I gained a stop in the highlights, and therefore I conclude that the "range" of stops shifted one stop from the shadows to the highlights, so the number of stops was the same, though the range was not the exactly the same range. Hope that makes sense. 
 
And the only reason I needed to change aperture was because my scene was exposed so high. This coupled with the rgb boost made the scene overexposed at all levels. For instance, I had a middle ground exposure, and 7 stops up and 7 stops down for testing, a range of 15 stops including the middle. But with the rgb boost, I was getting full over exposure 4 stops up, and each of the stops under middle were fine, resulting in 11 stops right? 9-11 depending how you measure. But by closing aperture slightly and make the scene darker for the test, I was able to get an extra stop or 2 above mid point, and reach true black below, resulting in 10—12, like gamma Dr. 
So back to the rgb boost within gamma Dr profile, you did in fact gain a stop in the highlights, as you showed, but you still had the same number of stops, indicating you lost one from the shadows. That being said, 0-100 ire was still achievable so maybe there is a use for both settings in different circumstances depending on scene lighting.

just did some follow ups. 
PW on, RGB 1.00, contrast -5. 9-11 stops, 0-100 IRE, just like with picture wizard off. 
PW on RGB 1.99 contrast -5, aperture closed 3 stops from previous tests: 10-12 stops of dynamic range, 0-100 IRE. It did indeed have another stop in it by closing the aperture. 
Gamma DR with RGB 1.99 with aperture closed 3 stops: 10-12 stops of dynamic range, 0-100 IRE. No difference in DR when compared to default Gamma DR settings, though the stop may have moved from the shadows to the highlights. 
PW on RGB at 0.50, contrast -5, using extra lighting. 9-11 stops, 0-92 IRE. There were indeed extra stops lying in the shadows from the previous test 4, though they require a LOT of light to be discerned. Still, highlights above 90 are clipped. 
PW on RGB at 0.05, contrast -5, using extra lighting. 7-9 stops, 0-38 IRE. Again, there were stops in the shadows, but this footage is essentially unusable since anything over 38 IRE is clipped. 
 
These were all done just with a grey card and adjusting exposure. Strictly testing dynamic range. I cannot speak to the quality of the image since it was just a grey card and I was looking at luminance only. I don't know if you set RGB low and under expose the shot if you can bring the entire image up in post and have usable footage. It may be possible if you drop contrast low enough, but if you peak at 38 IRE, that means all the info needs to be between 0 and 38, therefore my low contrast comment. Let me know if there is anything else I can test. It seems if you are shooting for highlights, the boost is useful in not overexposing, but gamma DR default has the same dynamic range. 
 

just did some follow ups. 
PW on, RGB 1.00, contrast -5. 9-11 stops, 0-100 IRE, just like with picture wizard off. 
PW on RGB 1.99 contrast -5, aperture closed 3 stops from previous tests: 10-12 stops of dynamic range, 0-100 IRE. It did indeed have another stop in it by closing the aperture. 
Gamma DR with RGB 1.99 with aperture closed 3 stops: 10-12 stops of dynamic range, 0-100 IRE. No difference in DR when compared to default Gamma DR settings, though the stop may have moved from the shadows to the highlights. 
PW on RGB at 0.50, contrast -5, using extra lighting. 9-11 stops, 0-92 IRE. There were indeed extra stops lying in the shadows from the previous test 4, though they require a LOT of light to be discerned. Still, highlights above 90 are clipped. 
PW on RGB at 0.05, contrast -5, using extra lighting. 7-9 stops, 0-38 IRE. Again, there were stops in the shadows, but this footage is essentially unusable since anything over 38 IRE is clipped. 
 
These were all done just with a grey card and adjusting exposure. Strictly testing dynamic range. I cannot speak to the quality of the image since it was just a grey card and I was looking at luminance only. I don't know if you set RGB low and under expose the shot if you can bring the entire image up in post and have usable footage. It may be possible if you drop contrast low enough, but if you peak at 38 IRE, that means all the info needs to be between 0 and 38, therefore my low contrast comment. Let me know if there is anything else I can test. It seems if you are shooting for highlights, the boost is useful in not overexposing, but gamma DR default has the same dynamic range. 
 

if apple pro goes away, hopefully then software developers will start supporting windows for professional and commercial applications. There is no reason for apple to be the standard for pros when it is more expensive and less powerful. 

going to 1.99 does not improve exposure without adding noise. The noise added is very similar to going an ISO level higher. Also, I found it changes the color tint somewhat. 
 
We have been experimenting with going lower now, as it *may* act as a sort of digital ND filter, however, as shown above, highlights are getting clipped somewhat. I will go ahead and get some testing done in the next day or so (maybe tonight) at different levels and show what is happening with highlights. 
did you adjust exposure to account for the lower brightness, as in decrease shutter, open aperture, or boost iso? Auto exposure does not work when adjusting the RGB scales, without compensation. So if you set auto exposure and turned down the rgb scales, it will be *under exposed*, just as if you boost the scales without compensation, the image will be *over exposed*. 

here are some zooms (600%) of the above frames. I will get the higher ISO stuff tonight. 
 
 






you can see in the last two frames there appears to be more sharpening happening without picture wizard on. I made sure to leave all picture wizard settings at 0 except the RGB, so I did not turn down sharpness. Interesting.