gt3rs

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.





 

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000):

motion blur in Resolve

Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning...



This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.


 

1 hour ago, PannySVHS said:

I won´t feed the spec hungry beast, that this thread is. But one thing I wanna say: For fine art stuff in my home it would be perfectly fine for me to do a large print from good 2K or HD source. 4K Alexa 35, yes please! Actually I got some cool old footage from my G6 I have always been wanting to do some stills from. I guess I´ll just do that. Not joking.

Cheapest cam to fullfill video for photo wants would be a used S1 with its opengate FF goodness. 24 Mpix, 30p, 10bit 420, just like big juicy HQ 10bit Jpegs. So, gotta get outta here, freaking specs race is exhausting.:)

Yeah right S1 video AF for sports…. maybe instead of complaining about the thread you could post some of yours sports frame grabs 😉 

6 hours ago, SRV1981 said:

How about R7?

I like FF look shallow dof so personally I would take R8 instead of an R7 also R8 4k 60 is supersampled definitely better quality…. a few here seems to prefer the R7.

I’m not a Sony shooter but they have really good camera too with great AF, so does Nikon (in case of Nikon for the moment only the expensive ones have good video for sports). 

Ideally you want a 4k or up, 60 fps not pixel binned with really good video AF

But the first question should be: do you own already any lenses?

11 hours ago, MrSMW said:

A 6k 50/60 m4/3 set up could be quite interesting for this kind of thing…

14 hours ago, kye said:

Or smaller sensors, deeper DoF capabilities, and worse low-light performance, but greatly reduced size and weight.

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3...

A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... 







At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8

Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

 

42 minutes ago, SRV1981 said:

This is it! Unfortunately the price of those systems is a little high for me but more so the size of the bodies/system isn’t compact enough for my needs.  
 

the image looks stellar though!

The above I posted especially as is a 4k one, so a R8 at 4k 60fps + a used ef 70-200 2.8 you would get a close enough photo out of the video as mine.

Unfortunately sports = large lenses… 

30 minutes ago, SRV1981 said:

Some amazing images!  What camera(s) were used for this?  

 

Mostly R5 and R5c. 

This one is from 2 days ago: R5c 4k 120fps 1/2000 F2.8 and the AF can keep up. AF tracking is quite good in video even for sport, challenging is the initial acquisition but for track and field it should not be a big issue

10 hours ago, SRV1981 said:

Say track and field - handheld (with IBIS?) 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule

The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

High shutter speed 1/500 and above

For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

Great, perfect timing as  this weekend there is a local showjumping event where I can test it before next week fei csi international competition.

Very curious about the AF improvement especially the face/helmet one….

28 minutes ago, SRV1981 said:

Is there a downside bumping the shutter speed up?

It would help knowing what type of action/sports you plan to shoot and the type of shoot eg tripod, gimbal, mounted camera, fix camera, etc.

Search my posts in the forum, I take a lot of pictures out of videos mostly out of 8k RAW and sometimes out of 4k 120fps….

Depending on the priority I set the shutter speed accordingly. video first then is 180 rule or up to 1/500, photo first I even set it to 1/3000… It depends a lot on the sports and if you are panning/following or fix position. Fix position 180 rule almost never work not even at 120fp 1/250, panning works in many more situation also as low as 1/50.

Sports people are so used to gopro videos and co that they mostly don’t notice if you shoot a video at 1/500….

I did try PS Generative Fill on around 10 pictures that I wanted to remove stuff since a long time but it was just too much work and is crazy good especially if you just want to remove objects. It will just get better and better and will be applied to video too. Saving tons of tons of hours of work but also will make people loose their job. 

Also being able to use a prompt will also speed up things tremendously like "replace the pink t-shirt with a white shirt"...

If you use a cage or half cage just use this 

https://www.smallrig.com/SmallRig-HDMI-and-USB-C-Cable-Clamp-for-Canon-EOS-R5---R6---R5-C-Cage-2981B.html

and this

https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-ultra-slim-4k-hdmi-adapter-cable-d-to-a-3021.html

On my R5c the adapter and clamp are there fixed in, so I just connect the full HDMI to the adapter. I already pulled the cable and broke the adapter.. 9$ and back to business, a full HDMI would not have been better so this is for sure the safest solution.

I was pretty sure that I have used for a couple of live streaming.

To be sure I just tested on my R5 and with the first menu settings (LCD+HDMI) the camera can record on the card while outputting a clean HDMI feed and displaying the overlays only on the LCD screen. I also tested and it works the second menu option "only HDMI", there you need to press info to go the screen without any overlays (assuming you did not disable that screen in the customization. 

It could be that R6 II cannot do neither of the methods but seems strange to me. 

Best is the R5c solution where you can configure what to show in the LCD and on the HDMI.... 

18 hours ago, BTM_Pix said:

The MC-N10 remote grip allows operation of the zoom (and a host of other functions) to be controlled off camera too.

Its not cheap but it adds a lot for video shooters, particularly for gimbal use.

 

Actually for gimbal use is a pita as it works only through USB so you cannot connect the gimbal to the camera, plus you have a cable from the gimbal grip to the camera that is not a good idea. Would have been Wifi or Bluetooth it would have been brilliant.... 

Seems a really good camera, probably the best hybrid at the moment.

It makes A1, Z9 and R3 look overpriced compared to this. Really good that Nikon is aggressive with the price/features pushing Canon and Sony. 

Only odd thing that apparently it cannot record video on both cards...and personally I don't like the screen as is a pita on gimbals...

On 5/2/2023 at 1:50 AM, D Verco said:

What's the benefit of the Z9/ Z8 for video over the Canon R5. I don't know enough about the canon, but I thought it was meant to be a good video hybrid?

The main difference is Z9 8k 60 vs R5 8k 30 (R5c has 8k 60) but at the end imo what it counts is what leans you have. 

Flip out screens are great especially for gimbal use as they don't interfere with the motors/arms!  

A cam R5c, B cam R5, 3 insta360 (R, 1 inch and GO2) and an iPhone 13 (that I truly hate for photo and video with s..ty file system, worst workflow ever)

High definition in term of "sharpness" or you mean overall image quality (sharpness, dr, noise, rolling shutter, etc)?
Do you need high-quality  slow-motion or not?

Highest definition is one out of the 8k cameras R5, R5c, Z9, A1, REDs or BM 12k. The only kind of option in this price bracket is a used R5. 

4k there are quite a bit of choices now.

If you need AF, and for modelling is imo very useful, and photo, buy either Sony or Canon and a good used 24-70 or a couple of primes 35/85. Investing in the nice L mount not sure it is wise. Panny is a nice player in the photo/video business compared to the big boys. You want to move up or down in chain Panny has not much to offer with the same lens mount... so you need to sell and buy lenses. Now they finally have a better AF but they dropped in the quality.... 

 

53 minutes ago, Django said:

Ah.. I see in the fine print of "Power Saving Mode" the restrictions (RAW, 8K mp4, XF-AVC Intra etc). 

So what does that leave you with? up to 4K60p mp4 & 8K XF-AVC Long GOP ?

As I read is "XF-AVC Intra Slow and Fast" not normal fps, my bet is any XF-AVC (24,25,50 and 60) will have the power saving. 
Unfortunately there is no 8k XF-AVC on the R5c, is either RAW or MP4.

39 minutes ago, ntblowz said:

From that announcement it look like they have quite a few feature updates planned for R5C, this is just the beginning!

Will Canon pull ahead vs other brand in terms of firmware update this year as they have released all the mirrorless camera they want to release this year, all that left is using firmware update to expand the feature even more.

 

Great, so there is still hope for LUT on RAW playback!

I wish (hope) that the power saving would be also in place when the camera is not recording as this is a real battery drain, going to "media play" solves the issue but if you forget to do it you loose a lot of battery for nothing.

Photo/video switch speed is for sure good, the waveform for me is a big improvement as this small thing is hard to read, and I'm very curios to test the AF improvements especially with helmets being a normal situation in my subjects.

Overall I'm happy that they try to improve the camera.

3 hours ago, Ty Harper said:

Oh man, these are pretty much all the FW updates I had hoped for!

"Improvements to the EOS R5 C include support for the EF-EOS R 0.71x Mount Adapter, faster switching time between photo and video modes, a power saving mode, 2x magnification during 8K MP4 recording and a digital-teleconverter option, maximizing flexibility by providing a quick way to increase the telephoto capability of the lens used."

https://www.newsshooter.com/2023/04/02/canon-cinema-eos-firmware-updates/?fbclid=IwAR3gafIkHuTszqC19mYmhmtG9l7H3i8U2hXb_tAwIx7NVgjY-QYm_vt9TgQ&mibextid=Zxz2cZ

Cool, let's see how it turns out, really looking forward on the power saving mode.

I wish they would also add:
- Apply LUT on RAW playback. This seems so basic!
- AF face tracking in 4k 100/120 
- 8k 50/60 RAW with AF and IS with internal battery even if it last only 15min
- Move the waveform around as you wish.
- Program a button for deleting video in playback mode that requires a simple confirmation and not 300 button press...

Why would you "buy" an APS-C lens for A7IV? If you already own it maybe for video, but buying it make no sense to me, for photo is meh as you loose a lot of res and for video is questionable.

Buy a good FF used lens, you will resell it with no too much loss if you want to change.  

I mostly buy used lens and if you find a good priced one you may end up selling for almost the same price that you brought.