BopBill

First time I tried multicam editing in Resolve. Shot with two NX1 cameras.
This is fireworks in Kuusankoski Finland (part of Kouvola city) clock 8pm
 

I've been messing around with this for a few hours now. The main lut plays really nicely with Juan Melara's print film emulation luts:

 

A year ago, I was contemplating picking one up when it hit the 12.5k mark. I priced it out at time, and looked at what I would need to get it in motion (all that I shoot), and decided to hold off. That decision ended up setting in motion the conversion idea for a somewhat smaller camera ;). I will still likely get one eventually, as I am a nutty fan, but it won't really be practical for personal shooting for me, because of the weight (the motion tools and crew needed for them etc.). It would still be nice to have one however, and I spoke to Roman Alaivi a while back about it (someone who ended up getting one when it hit 12k). Here are his thoughts:
Hey man, yeah I did get a classic Alexa last December. I've loved it so far. Basically, in terms of functionality it is a beast and not quite as simple as the URSA logistically. It's big, uses lots of power and can be a bit of a pain in terms of getting up and running smoothly once you buy the camera.
Here's what I had to get off the bat to make it just as useful / practical as the URSA. 
- 6 * 155WH Anton Bauer batteries. Each battery giving me approximately 1hr 15m. 6 batteries was the minimum to run a normal shoot for me. $1600
-O'Connor 2060HD head used $6k. O'Connor sticks, $1500. I suppose you could skimp out here and get another head... but man... this thing is no joke lol. You need a serious head. There's older versions of the O'Connor you could probably use though
-4 * 64GB SxS media: $1k. This was the dumbest purchase, because I could have literally gotten a Gemini with an ARRI Raw licence for about that much, and multiple 512GB cards... so silly. Either way, look to spend about that much to make it useful media-wise
-Hot swap battery plate, to run 2 batteries $300
-Good telescoping rosette arms. With other cameras, I could care less, but with how big the Alexa is, I pretty much needed exactly the right length of arm to make handheld feel as natural as URSA or other cameras. I got the shape handles for $1k. Might sound like overkill, but other rosette handles just don't hold up with how much weight you're bouncing around. The solid Tilta handles I had eventually wore-down and the rosettes didn't even lock into place properly because of the bumps and jolts they'd get tossing the camera around sometimes.
There's a few more things for sure, but those were the main purchases.
In the end, once I had everything I needed, it wasn't bad at all. Takes more time to setup for shoots, but less time in post. Footage looks so good, and just the ARRI REC709 LUT looks like a movie every time lol. I'd be lying if I said it wasn't worth it just for the look and how consistent it is no matter what I shoot. I've been loving it so far.

Thanks guys, it's really not my best work with this camera because it was done on a run and gun basis we didn't have enough time for filming but it's a combination of experience and really this forum what made me learn about this camera.
I use Gamma DR with -4 con -4 sat and -10 sharpness and +7 master black level with 16-235 color space... I learned never to shoot when the sky is clear blue to avoid banding, so as you can see lots of clouds is good idea, I avoid plain walls in the background to avoid microblocking "even using higher bitrates" my ISO never goes beyond 250 this is my own tests shows skintones tend to become plastic and loss of details above that especially in 1080p so always 250 iso or under, if it's dark then you've got to add more lighting. also I have noise reduction turned off in camera, this is because I do my own noise reduction in post but it's up to you. 
white balance is very important, it's always custom mode or chose a preset, never chose auto because it'll keep shifting and changing and ruins your color grade.  when it comes to color grading, I slap on an LUT built for rec-709 one of them is Aspen by Ricardo in this forum which I really  but the M31 Lut for rec 709 works great.  but some adjustments are needed, an LUT supose to just help you as a base, then you've got to build up on it by tweaking highlights and stuff depending on what you do. I find that in adobe premiere having to reduce the LUT to 80% when you start to see the grading too harsh and shows microblocking (yeah 8bit  ) 
this camera is okay with under-exposed footage just not over-exposed, avoid blown skintones at all costs. 
I usually have two grades for a single shot, for example I want the singers face to be brighter than the background so I add a mask of grading just on her face this makes her stands out from the background and the back dancers. 
I shoot 1080P slow mo only in bright places or daylight, but always for close'ups because the quality of 1080p is degraded so in wide angle shot of a person the skintone becomes mushy and muddy so as you can see in the video it's almost always medium to close'up. I try to use as much 4k downgraded to 1080p as possible and use as little 1080p out of the camera as possible. 
if the nx1 had clean 1080P at 50fps I wouldn't need to upgrade it's an amazing camera...but now since slow-mo is what my clients always ask for I'm having to upgrade sadly to GH5 with 4k at 50fps  
PS: one trick you can do is, find your favourite video that you like their color grade, download it, put it on your timeline then just match their levels with histogram and color levels, this helps me find the right number for the luminance of the face and level of each color. 
 
 

Adam Montville had a reply that to me makes sense.
"my feelings on it:
For a 1080p (or 2.8k RAW external recorder) for 10k +recorder, when the Blackmagic 2.5k is only $500-1500 on Ebay. I don't think the Alexa Classic is worth 10x the price, when you can rig up the Blackmagic for way less than the Alexa Classic. (Purely talking Classic Alexa, and not the newer models)

The 2.5k Blackmagic has RAW, ProRes, and pretty good color and dynamic range, that I thought about going back to it, for how cheap they are now. Neither option is great for future proofing, but for Internet work, I doubt anyone could tell the difference."
 
This is my part.
There is some damn killer ass video in this short. Hell of a lot better than a lot of High end stuff if you ask me. And I Like this kind of look! Not every second of it is great but a hell of a lot of it is. And this is from a 800 dollar camera on ebay at lot of the time. And a hell of a lot of us have lenses that fit it. A BMCC is a hell of a camera for the money.
 

After 2 years Iam still in love with it, I won't buy new one now I'd probably wait for Canon 1DX mk2 to get cheaper on 2nd hand market until then I still do low budget music videos so the money is tight can't afford yet to get bigger better..at the end for normal people's eyes it's the story, framing, lighting that really matters not pixel peeps. 
here's my latest video shot in London with NX1
 

Guys, Love this 

@dunjoye 
 I shot this with The Canon C500 IN 1080p and the Canon 1DC. It is such a special camera.

I was also looking at selling for the 4k 60p auto focus of the Canon 1DX 2. If the 1DX 2 just had that lovely super 35mm mode I would be gone. 

Still love my 1DC. 

Here's something done with NX500 + Rokinon 12mm + something which has: "made in USSR" 44mm, written on it + small LED panel
footage was shot at DC / 90Mbps / no audio

Happy holidays to all
 

Dropped by to say thanks to Andrew Reid and everyone on this sub-forum for generously sharing their knowledge ... and add that I think the NX1 is still very relevant in today's market. 

Here's my story, I was looking for a small and light B Cam for a Red Dragon and decided to spend the last month really getting to know the NX1 because I like how close the out-of-camera images look to the Red.  I advocate for not heavily grading DSLR images and trying to get as close to what I can in-camera ... playing to the DSLR's strengths and avoiding its weaknesses, like codec and bit rates.  I shot this with the NX1 and a DJI Mavic as a test, all images are ungraded, straight out of camera and through Premiere's and Youtube's compression ...
EQUIPMENT USED
. Samsung NX1 with Canon EF 35mm and Samsung NX 16-50mm PZ.
. Beholder DS1
. DJI Mavic
NX1 SETTINGS
. Vasile hack 180Mbps
. Master Black Level +10
. Gamma DR
. Custom Profile R0.90/G0.92/B1.10, Sharpness-10, Contrast-5
. Smartrange on
. DIS on
PS. I had trouble with focusing but have figured out how to assign peaking to the speed dial now, haha, should help.
PPS. the DIS does work well but occasionally does some funky things so I learned that it's important to review the footage carefully.
 

Super impressed. One thing I want to mention is that the level of professionalism shown above has more to do with a good story, believable characters, good locations, composition and lighting than the camera. In fact, you don't want your audience to even think about the camera, or any other technical aspect, you want them engaged in your story.   

It's great you got it working!

@BopBill Hey sir its running great now... thanks for the training wheels treatment  its alot zipper than the other hack 
Now I need to go shoot something   
 
(FOR FUTURE PEOPLE)
-Download and Install this First
https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/blob/master/nx-on-wake/nx-on-wake.zip
Click this link with left mouse button, and new page opens and there is download button.
 
-Then install this
This is the second part of installation prosess:
https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/blob/master/video-bitrate-mods/nx-patch/nx-patch.zip
Instructions are in the ZIP-file

This is the second part of installation prosess:
https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/blob/master/video-bitrate-mods/nx-patch/nx-patch.zip
Instructions are in the ZIP-file.
The hack has the killall button and it is usefull, because using it the other parts of the hack (except bitrates) are not using any prosessing resurces. And after using killall you can't open menu before the battery has been out of the camera ( shut camera and after that battery out for few seconds.)
However the Killall function doesn't remain on many days. You have to do it again after day or two. But you start to make it  habbit to check, with double clicking the little lcd light button, that if the killall function is still on or not. Not a big deal.

Is the info.tg file also in the card?
 

It is this:
https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/blob/master/nx-on-wake/nx-on-wake.zip
Click this link with left mouse button, and new page opens and there is download button.

For installation look at this Vasile's answer:
https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/issues/82

I have used those 3 cameras, and the GH5 extensively for video work (even for TV shows). I would take the NX1 any day of the week.
It is amazing how NX1 is still one of the best hybrids in the market, in my opinion, the best HYBRID (a camera 50% for photos and 50% for video), as A7r cameras are photo orientated, A7s video, Sony APS-C lack pro body and features, Fuji is still mostly photo orientated (they are missing a ton of video features vs the NX1), GH5 is obviously video centric etc etc
Also, there is a tendency for higher and higher prices, that makes me reluctant to invest to more hardware right now. The big changes will come with the adaptation of the HDR standard in the next few years, but right now the industry has competing standards and technology, so I wouldn't worry about that, yet. As I have said already many times, no one ever has asked me for 4K delivery, which isn't the same as HDR delivery, but you can imagine that HDR - which is brand new, will take a few good years to be the norm in video productions.
The only issue I face, is the fact that Samsung is not a player in the industry, so I have to work with a lot of different brands, and I can't "sell" my equipment for jobs or projects with other people directing/producing. Funny thing: in early summer, a camera operator (he uses only Canon D5 and series Cameras) did 3rd camera on a performance coverage I produced, and I gave him the NX1. I explained a few things, and he did his job. He called a couple of weeks ago and asked for the camera because "I liked that little GH4 a lot"! He didn't even understood it was a Samsung, after me mentioned it 4-5 times!

Our friend is back. It's interesting to get a pov from a guy that uses and owns all 3 cameras.
He he basically said what we all know... NX1 isn't best at anything but very good at everything (but  lowlight).  Seems if he was forced to pick one for all his video+ photo needs. NX is it. 
 
 

Hi everyone,
I thought I share my first Project I shot with my new Canon C200.
I used Cinema Raw Light, mostly at 50fps. I used a lot of available light , I had only one LED Light Panel with me and relied completely on the cameras autofocus. I really wanted to try what I can do with minimal crew. Tell me what you think!
I am happy to answer all questions about the camera and my experiences with it.
Max
 
 

I shoot with GH5's every day at work while all of my personal and side projects are shot on the NX1 and NX500. 

Obviously the 4k 60p on the GH5 is fantastic. And I quite like V-Log as well, it's far easier to grade than Sony's log profiles, and nicely preserves the dynamic range without destroying colors. I haven't really shot/graded 10-bit footage that much, as it is just overkill for the kind of work I have been doing, and the 8-bit is fine. I like how big the EVF is, and how you can switch between viewfinder and LCD screen easily while recording. There are lots of great and easily re-mappable function buttons, and you can program and save shooting modes in the custom profiles dial much easier and more effectively than you can on the NX cameras, which don't even save the video data at all. Of course, you can also move the zoomed-in focus checking area, unlike NX, and the tilty/flippy screen is preferable to the tilt-only screen. And you can't forget about the IBIS, which is just fantastic for handheld shooting, truly a game-changer for my kind of work, I need a monopod for my NX1 at all times. 
That being said...
I far prefer the NX cameras' photo/video implementation; it is still the simplest, best camera I have ever used for switching quickly between stills and video. No specific mode dials needed. Tap the shutter button to take a picture, hit the record button to record. The NX1 seems to have quite a bit better battery life than the GH5 in my experience as well. It is also lighter and feels better in the hands- the NX1 is an insanely comfortable camera, in the fact still the best I have ever used ergonomically, while the GH5 is surprisingly heavy and a bit bulky. The GH5 also has this very annoying tendency to hesitate for just a split-second or two when you hit the record button, which doesn't sound like a big deal, but it hesitates just long enough that I have double-pumped many, many times, while the NX seems immediately responsive. I do prefer the the menu system on the NX cameras as well. 
As far as out-and-out IQ comparison, I have one of Luca's speedboosters on my NX1 pretty much all the time, so I have actually gotten quite used to the full frame look, especially DOF-wise, so it almost feels limiting sometimes to only have a super-35 equivalent with a Speedbooster on the GH5. Color-science wise, I can't say I prefer the one over the other - - in good light, I think both cameras look fantastic, with great skin tones and malleable colors -- basically you'll be able to get the look you're going for in post with either camera. The autofocus on the NX cameras is far, far better than the GH5, if that's important to you. And the NX1's internal 6.5k to 4k downscale is still unbeaten, detail-wise. The image is always just unbelievably sharp and detailed. The GH5 doesn't quite match that. And while the low-light and noise on the GH5 is probably preferable (clean at 1600, useable at 3200) I rarely, if ever, need these ISOs anyway, especially with the speedbooster and some fast glass to boot. 
Of course, I'm not mentioning stills quality at all, I haven't shot many stills on the GH5, but obviously the NX is going to win that competition hands-down, it is still, even several years later, one of the best APS-C sensors ever made, with insanely good dynamic range, especially when pulling shadows. 

So, bottom line, should you switch?
I think that depends. If you're pure run-and-gun, then yes, the IBIS (and the 4k 60p, if you need high-res slo-mo, with the benefit of a good log profile) is a pretty unbeatable combo for video right now. Throw in the 10-bit, and it's future-proofed for quite some time. The low-light IQ is more than enough. I think the GH5 is easily the best bang-for-the-buck camera around right now, and will remain so for quite some time. But if you're already invested in the NX system, which has its own fantastic native lenses (16-50S, wow), IQ wise I really don't think you're gaining that much. Not enough to go through the hassle of trying to sell and offload all my Samsung gear. I quite enjoy the GH5. But I still love shooting with my NX cameras, and don't feel like I'm losing out of for most of the kind of work that I do.

So take that as you will.  

I've had the EVA1 for almost a week now, but sickness and rain has prevented me from using it too much. However I've had a couple days of shooting and thought I'd share some random samples from some documentary footage . Only the sunrise shot has been graded (lifted shadows). A lot of the shots are handheld. Lenses used are the sigma 18-35 and canon 70-200 f2.8. I Don't have any proper IR footage but I'll get some eventually.
I used ACEScct V35 to Rec 709 in Davinci to correct the Vlog. Only ISO 2500 or 800. Exposed to +0EV in cam. No NR in cam or in post
 
Just a bunch of random shots in a random order!
 
Things I've noticed about the EVA1 though:
At base ISO and in VLOG the ceiling for the waveform monitor is at 92%. When you stop the ISO down (2500 base, ISO 1000) the ceiling drops about 10% (to 83 or something like that). A pretty big drop in DR! I'd only go higher than base on the ISO if needed.
Battery indicator is only in bars, no percentage
LCD is very reflective, hard to tell if things are in focus! I'm planning on picking up a camera monitor for it later.
Ergonomics feel great, no complaints! However the side grip can unlock itself if put under too much weight (to adjust the rotation, it doesn't fall off). Might be just my unit though.
Underexposure can get noisy (who would have thought) - however it looks more like film grain than digital noise most of the times. I haven't tested this with the built in NR function.
 
Honestly a really awesome camera and can't wait for the 400mbps & raw update. I can export the original V-Log footage and post it here for download if anyone wants later.
 
EDIT: I exported for youtube H264 at 68mbps, is there a better way to get less compression on YT?

As it is said before in static scenes it is hard to see any difference. But I have seen horrible macro blocking in some sky scenes before the hack. Also there is some stange "macro block flashing" sometimes in even shadow surfaces ( grounds, roads, walls...), there can be little with hack too but much more without. Can't explain it, but it seems to me some kind of macro blocking. I have also seen really horrible  macro block, color kind of flashing when shooting snow during snowing. I have not seen it with the hack yet. I have no words to explain it correctly, sorry my english. All in all, simply the picture seems more "peacefull" with the hack. I use it all the time. Nowadays  at 140 mbps (AF and IS on)

Dear friends, just coming back to the title of this thread.. I have both, Sony A7s II and Samsung NX1, and I know very well both.
Yesterday I have tried for first time the Zeiss Distagon 28 f/2 Zf.2 on NX1, and my friends, in the screen of my laptop I've seen God. Great 3D, amazing colors, incredibly alive images, an interstellar trip. Never seen something like that on my Sony A7s II.
And the world still ignores this prodigious camera called NX1.
I know, I should get over it, but I cannot.
 

Did you try to adjust the diopter, wheel on the right side of EVF?

Could you tell what GPU you have, that runs NX1 files smoothly? Also do you have W10 Home or Pro version?
I am thinking to buy Resolve Studio version, but I should also buy Nvidia GPU and maybe (hope not) W10 Pro update.