Ty Harper

Well I can say for example that for someone like me who has an R5-C and is actively looking to pick up one of those RF-EF adaptors that come with the drop-in ND filter, that the Meike and Kolari offerings are just better. And that's using every metric that matters, including price. So from that perspective I can see why Canon would not want this type of smoke from third party companies.

Well I can say for example that for someone like me who has an R5-C and is actively looking to pick up one of those RF-EF adaptors that come with the drop-in ND filter, that the Meike and Kolari offerings are just better. And that's using every metric that matters, including price. So from that perspective I can see why Canon would not want this type of smoke from third party companies.

Exactly they could implement an optional timer setting that when you are in menus or not recording for that time the camera stops live feeding video.... or switches to a much lower res mode as R5 does.

A useful battery hack for the R5C. Basically if you hit the Media button and keep it in that mode while you aren't shooting, you can almost triple the battery's life:
 

I went with an R5C

Still love the old 1DC

Nothing fancy; just some Bose companion II satellite speakers and a subwoofer connected via USB-A.

@Ty Harper I have the same set-up that is perfectly capable of editing 6k multicam edits (S1+S5) in Final Cut. RAM usage gets a little tight sometimes with only 16 gigs, if you're bouncing between multiple applications open at the same time, video editor, photoshop, browser with lots of tabs, etc., but overall it has been a pretty reliable machine for me. 

I also have a totally maxed out M1 Max laptop and, at least for the edits I do (which is generally your basic talking-head multicam in a 4k project with b-roll overtop) I don't really notice a huge difference between the $4k laptop and the $800 Mac Mini, so I wouldn't be in a huge rush to go splurge on a Studio unless you really want to. 

I do wish the mini had more thunderbolt IO. I use one port to go to my LG 5k display, and the other port gets used by a 10 gig adapter to my server, so that's kind of limiting, vs the newer apple computers with more IO for connecting fast peripherals, but for the price, it's definitely a good bang-for-buck purchase. 

Just put mine up for sale today 😞

In theory as it supports USB-PD up to 100w. It maybe a good solution to protect from breaking the camera board. I may try as currently I use a small rig protector but you could still break it.
I rally hate the power over USB C….. is the only thing that I truly hate from this great camera
Ideally a USB PD or D tap dummy battery would be even better…

Well I bit the bullet and picked up a used R5C. It was about $500 US cheaper than what a used R5 goes for in these parts and came with a Anker powerbank + a 512GB Sandisk Pro cfexpress card I purchased for an extra $350. Coming from using C300/100s I will say that I really appreciate having that classic Cine menu in such a relatively small body. I also feel like for the first time pretty much future-proofed when it comes to my A cam - and I see myself growing and learning with the R5C for a long long time - but also see myself potentially getting an R5 much later down the line as a B-cam.
I am not a reviewer/tester at all so I won't be doing any of that stuff - but here are some early thoughts after screwing around with it for a weekend:
(i) The battery life is definitely a pain in the ass and while not a deal breaker for me - I can see why it would be for many. I currently have three LPE6NH batteries but compared to my run n gun days with my 5D MKIII w/ ML RAW or even my 1DC - I don't have the same confidence going into the field with just the cam and 4 or 5 batteries. Sure I have the Anker battery but that's super clunky and all the external battery options require some degree of rigging. I agree with others who think Canon should create a special battery grip that allows something like an LPE17 battery to power the R5C. I'll also say that youtuber CAMMACKEY has built my fav rig solution so far! 
(ii) The R5C definitely feels alot lighter than my 5D MKIII but the fan makes it essentially the same size/footprint. I say this only bcuz part of me was really hoping it could be more of a stealth camera (like the XT3/4) that I could bring on trips without drawing unwanted attention (particularly thieves, beach robbers etc) but that is def not the case (which makes something like the XT3/4 an option I'll still consider once it gets to the $700-$900CAN range!)
(iii) On the topic of stealth I'd love it if Canon released an RF version of it's 40mm pancake lens bcuz that feels like a great combo for those looking for a smaller run n gun footprint (sure I could pop on the adapter but with the EF 40mm pancake it ends up being about the same size as the RF 35mm so I'd prefer a true RF pancake.
(iv) DPAF/face tracking is class leading of course altho performance with Canon lenses seems to vary. I also noticed that the AF speed adjustment option isn't available for my 50mm f1.2 nor my 28mm f2.8 (IS) altho AF Response is available. So far the DPAF/face tracking works great with the 28mm but was more fiddly with the 50mm (although I acknowledge that I'm still researching optimal settings, etc)
(iv) Looking at the photo side and the feel of the images coming out of the R5C, I gotta say I prefer the IQ of my 5D MKIII. This is totally subjective, and I acknowledge it might just be a settings thing. It's also important to flag that the new CR3 files won't open in the default Preview application on older Mac OSX's. I use High Sierra with no plans of upgrading so I'll need to find a proper photo app.
(v) The touch screen is great but I still feel like I'll want a Ninja V.
I think that's it for now and thanks again to everyone on this forum for their thoughts on this cam and every other thing you've discussed over the years. I was really on the fence with the R5C vs the R5 but so far I feel like I made the right choice for me - although it really was the price that sealed the deal.

It sucks ass.
- A R5C owner
I enjoy using the camera though and just carry 3x more batteries with me than if using just my R5. You can rig and shoot for hours but I don't like using cables if I don't have too. I would have gotten a C70 but would prefer FF with RF glass I have.

The R5 when in standby it has low res mode and I believe when you go into menus it even stops the live feed to save battery, there is a setting to enable high res if you use it with and external recorder, streaming etc..

The R5c basically is always processing the live feed even when non recording, the menus are transparent over the live feed and basically is always filming at the current settings thus it makes almost zero difference if recording or not.
One trick is to enter playback menu as there it stops the live feed and basically stop draining the battery.
I also think that all the additional feature like waveform etc... consumes more cpu cycles and on top of that the OS probably was never optimized for small battery. 
While recording on similar settings probably they use similar battery but the R5c is much more conservative with the battery status so it will tell you that the battery is gone while on a R5 you can still continue to record.
Long story short the battery is the only real BIG issue of the R5c imo. 

You have basically 5 options and none are really great imo:
- Change battery every 45 min no matter what you are doing
- Buy the battery grip it will give double battery capacity, it adds bulk, weight and still cannot use 8k 50/60 RAW. Plus add costs but if you already have batteries it may not be such bad idea. 
- Buy a dtap to dummy battery, add a cage and a vmount plate and use dtap battery that you may already have, still cannot use 8k 50/60 RAW, bulky but if you have the batteries already not too expensive and cables are quite safe. Camera will run for many hours.
- Buy a PD 45w power bank, can run for many hours, is cheap but cable is fragile and you probably need a cage and a power bank mount that are terrible imo.
- My solution, add a cage, vmount plate, and buy FXLION NANO ONE and use the USB-C cable, it runs with the small ONE around 3h of recording 8k, the NANO TWO will last probably more than 6h recording. Disadvantage it adds bulks, and you need a cable locking system to protect the fragile USB-C, batteries are expensive but cheaper than buying 4 canon batteries.

I think in future you will see third party dummy battery that provides enough V for 8k 60 from dtap. You could do it already with the canon coupler for R5c plus anthon bauer dtap thing but is a big mees, super long cables, a box in between and expensive. This is a joke.

Again, I really don't understand why Canon is not offering a battery grip with R3 batteries and problem solved, no cables and enough power for 8k 60.
 
If you do docs the advantages of the R5c is the face only AF, will never overheat, XAFC is so much better to edit, the various exposure tool and if you use 4k 50/60p the quality is much better. Lack of IBIS could be an issue or not depending on your style and if you use IS lenses or not.
Probably in your case if you are not interested in the 8k 50/60 RAW is to buy the battery grip, if you already have many LP-E6 batteries you "only" have the cost of the grip. 

I don't like to rig cameras as I only do run and guns thing mostly in areas that you cannot even go with a car, so I carry my equipment on bikes, skis, heli, etc...  and yet I prefer the R5c with this big battery issue.

 

Hi,
Thanks for the replies, I now have it working. Initially on the 'input tab' on the Ninja it is set to a default of "Compatibility" which I expected the Ninja to auto detect the output however it appears not. When quickly toggling between the modes nothing was happening however it now seems it needs 5 seconds or more to go live with the signal after being selected. When I leave the input to "HDMI 1.4" it now works as expected. My main fear was that there was a hardware issue with the camera itself. See photo below of the settings.
 
hope this helps
Simon

 

I had a C300 II for a while and I think it made a good image in 2k 10 bit. It was always a frustrating limitation that 4k and 2k 4444 are limited to 30 fps.
The raw output is over SDI and limited to 4k 30p. You can now do prores raw to a Ninja V Pro (SDI module) but this is pretty bulky solution and still no slow motion recording.
I would go for a C200 over either of those cameras though if you're interested in 60p. You get the 4k 60p 10bit Canon Raw Lite which I found had less artifacts than the X-AVC of the C300 II. A quick transcode to prores and you have a really capable camera system.
One downside of both the C300 II and 200 was noise in the shadows especially with C-log2. Canon fixed that with the DGO sensor, so it may ultimately be worth just getting a C70. You also get the flexibility of the RF mount which is a huge bonus.
I didn't ever use the 1DX II so can't compare. I think the images look decent if you're happy with shooting on a DSLR.

I used the C300 MKII for a feature recently. It's a really nice camera. We didn't use AF so I can't comment on that. An advantage to it is you can shoot BRAW from an external recorder. The internal 2k is nice. 

My complaint about it is in high contrast situations you can get a sensor artifact which causes vertical lines to appear across the screen. I was disappointed with this as I like to shoot high contrast stuff. You just have to watch out for it. 

I've only used the 1DX MK2 once. Its a nice camera but I'd be hard pressed to go with a camera that doesn't have LOG. The colors are great though as well as the auto focus. Definitely still a solid option. 

Yeah looks like 2K 60p is 422 10 bit...

Anyone have experience with the 2K 60p on the C300 MKII? Wondering how it compares to the 4K 60p on the 1DX MKII? And is there a clear winner between the two?
 

Thanks for this, had never heard of cinematch, seems like a gamechanger if they keep updating it...

I agree. In a perfect world I'd pick up the C70 or 1DX MKIII but they are well beyond my budget as a hobbyist. 
If I recall you were a fan of the 1DC as well, would you sell yours now if u were in my shoes? 

Just my opinion, from my experience, but if you like the ML Raw image from the 5Diii and don't mind the workflow, I think you'll have to spend a lot more money to be happy.
@TomTheDP was absolutely correct when he wrote, "5D MK3 with magic lantern is about as nice of an image as you can get..." 
With what is on the market now, I really think I'd need a C200 or 1DX Mark III to warrant an upgrade.
YMMV

Yes, which is why the plan was to sell the 1DC and get another 5D MKIII (I already have one) along with an XT3/4. That way if I can't match the XT3/4 to the 5D MKIII (ML) I can still use it for b-roll but the XT3/4 would also become my walk around family/travel camera.

A fuji would be great for travel/family stuff. If you want something even smaller I'd suggest the XT-30 as long as you don't need 10 bit. Fuji lenses are also nice and compact. 

In terms of video work I'd recommend staying in the same brand as camera matching is a pain that's just not worth it. Two XT3's would be a good idea if you are looking for a 4k workflow. 

5D MK3 with magic lantern is about as nice of an image as you can get, aside from maybe a bit less dynamic range that newer cameras. 

Before spending the money, maybe download some sample files and see how you get on with matching them. I've heard good things about https://www.cinematch.com/.
 

Bcuz I actually like the look, don't mind the workflow, I wouldn't have to worry about color matching and the bang for buck is pretty undeniable. I see them going for as little as $700 CAN right now... but also, at that price I could totally pick up another XT3 later...
I guess my main question is should I even sell the 1DC? It has always felt to me like a collectors item...