IronFilm

Old thread, but thought I'd mention that I got this in the mail today. Hoping to test it a little more tomorrow. First impressions are that it's solid. Holds a GH4 with 12-35 lens no problem. The motor is a little noisy but that's about the only downside I've seen.

Normally, I would agree with that statement -- just like we wouldn't typically call a motorized slider a "motion control unit".
In this case, I think the multiple speeds in forward and reverse, the timelapse feature and the Stretch Goal (which adds the magnetic sensors that allow for speed ramping start/stop and repeat moves) and the fact that the device is capable of free movement and not limited to using a linear track -- allow for a somewhat liberal use of the term "motion control".
But, yes, clearly not the definition of motion control used in the business. 
 

Certainly looks alright. But take a cheapo table dolly (let's say 15 bucks)...

... and then imagine something DIY to make it motorized... 199 then sounds quite the up in price.

I'm a Nikon shooter, they focus the right way round! ;-)

Mortgage the house and you can get 16 bit raw photos ;-)

there isn't any. we're talking about the micro cinema camera. not the micro studio camera. different animal. that being said, I expect it will look identical to the pocket. same sensor, just supercharged.

I just wish some footage from the illusive camera would show its face!  It seems to be a figment of the black magic marketing teams imagination - it's almost a year since they announced it and nothing to be seen!  I want to see the impact on dr and sensitivity when switched to global shutter mode before i think about putting down a pre order!

I remember that. Caused quite a stir.
The iphone and the 7D were the ones that noticeably stuck out as worse. Not AWFUL by any stretch, just noticeably softer. 
The GH2 did look good. The third episode, they did reveal the lighting set ups and post time. That's where people came back to reality. It took a lot more tweaking with the lights and tons more post work to make the GH2 look good. 
Still, it was like 50x cheaper. Remarkable, given the price difference. But that security and speed to get a nice shot is worth a lot. 
That was years ago though, and I'd argue that the low end is crushing up into the high end more and more with each passing year. The test would be even closer now. 

I see comments like this a lot and it always reminds me of the revenge of the great camera shootout 2011 where they compared among other cameras an Iphone and G2 to an Alexa. They had an identical scene set up and the DP could modify it as needed by adding lights or adjusting intensity of the lights that were already there. Yes the G2 and even the Iphone to a degree where made to look pretty good and it showed that a good DP could make them look great. Some took away from that video that even the much cheaper DSLR's could be made to look almost as good as the Alexa, the camera tech doesn't matter it comes down to the talent of the DP.
While true I took a different lesson from it. If you watch the video the Alexa team says that they only adjusted the intensity of the lights that were there to add some contrast to the shot since the camera could handle the scene as it was just fine. The G2 team due to the limitations of the camera went through a long list of like 15-20 changes they made - adding lights, etc... Not to mention the extra time it takes in post as well. Now take that scene and multiply it by 100, all that extra time you spend dealing with the limitations or quirks of the camera. Yes you can make the image look great but it can take a lot of extra effort to do so. 
The big players use cameras like the Alexa because they are rock solid reliable with a flexible and fantastic image. They can spend their time being creative, not trying to over come the limitations of a camera. When you have millions of dollars on the line why risk it only to save some rental money on a quirky or unknown camera when you can use a tried and true proven work horse that you know will get the job done smoothly?

Personally I don't think that's a good plan, they are good lenses but the ones you already have aren't bad either and having a single one of those on the gh4 crop is totally pointless.

For your needs I'd very strongly recommend ignoring the D500 as you do not fit into any of these categories:
a) wildlife / photo journalist / sports photographer 
b) rich amateur who must have THE BEST NOW
c) MUST HAVE NIKON 4K *NOW* filmmaker  (patience.... it is just Nikon's first go at 4K. I trust/hope they'll bring out 4K to cheaper models soon. Hopefully without the additional crop over FHD!!)
d) a very successfully working pro photography (they're rarer than you think...) who wants a pro body DX camera and who the extra cost of a D500 over D7200/D7100/D7000 is so small and inconsequential when spread over all their jobs. And who might even just be getting it as their back up / B body.
 
Your big choices are instead between these three categories of options:
A) D5x00 series camera, this is by far the most cost effective option and from reading your replies seems like the best option for you.
B) D7100/D7200 good if you want to take your professional photography further and get a semi pro body. And it will allow you to AF with AF-D series Nikkors (this is the biggest reason why to get one in my books)
C) a D750 for all the reasons I just said in B) plus you get the small (debatable, some will claim the benefit is greater) gain of moving up to the larger FX sensor. But at a much much greater, not just for the body but also greater cost for the lenses too. (And is why I wouldn't recommend option C for you, even though still now in 2016 the D750 is *the* best general purpose DSLR you can buy anywhere)
 
My view is get yourself a D5x00 series camera (or maaaybe a D7100/D7200). Then a year or two down the track pick uo the amazing 4K shooting  (probably? Maybe??) D5600/D7300 or instead a D750 on the ultra cheap. Then your purchase now will become your B cam body later on. As every pro shooter should have at least two cameras (and especially if you shoot events in the future, then it can become ESSENTIAL to use two or more bodies).
Nope, sorry to be so very blunt but that is 100% crazy talk. Don't think Nikon has *EVER* made a DSLR which can't use a flash on its hotshoe, the mere thought of it is rediculous lol :-)

Perhaps if Nikon can update the firmware so that the camera can read 4.2K-4.4K internally then downsample to 4K, the crop would not be as severe. Being 8-bit anyways would make it not difficult a task for the Expeed 5. Of course the possible side effect would be a shorter recording time since the process can generate more heat than usual...

Thanks for the compliments :-)
The 5200's are very underrated, but the great SOOC images make the post prod work very straightforward. 
I've shot up to ISO 3200 with them but that is about their limit.
Edit : BTW I have never had any issue with the hacked firmware, either with video or photography.

Unless you're a sports photographer that needs the extra FPS I would not recommend the d7100 over the similarly priced d5500, which has a better grip and IMO better controls despite having fewer dials and buttons. I speak from experience having shot a lot with them over the summer. And as has already been said, it has 60fps. Also the new Flat profile is great and gives very similar dynamic range to my c100 ii. The colour is also very nice. 

I've shot dozens of corporate videos and some celeb interviews with the 7100 - over time I started to notice a lot of busy horizontal noise, but turned out to be the flat profile I was using. I switched to (I think) the portrait setting and tweaked it a bit and it's back to great video, though I bring a lighting package (usually 400 HMI softboxes for interviews) and tend to shoot around 400 - 800 iso.
I rented a 5300 for a multicamera shoot and liked the image a lot and the color intercut fine with the D7100; I didn't like the lack of a wired remote (use these on cranes a lot, often the crane is used as sort of a floating tripod) so that, and the screw-drive for older AF lenses (to set initial focus from the back of the crane) were huge for me. But I also do a lot of stills gigs where the extra 7100 features are nice, esp. since I have several screw-drive lenses.
The 7100 feels a little "old tech" video-wise, but the actual image is really a beauty, and it will be my main stills cam til it dies. Switched to the NX1 for video and really freaking pleased - though I need a newer phone to run the remote VF software which seems like the best crane solution. If I were trying to decide on a sub-$700 DSLR for stills and video, I'd have a tough time choosing between the 5300 and the 7100 (but I have enough monitoring gear that I don't need an articulating screen and before the NX1 with OLED and peaking I always used a loupe). But for someone shopping around the $1k mark, there are many more choices out there.

Can you tell if the NX1 is outputting 24 but the VA is recording 60? Or does the camera switch itself to 60 to match the VA?
Also, can you record in the camera and to the VA simultaneously, like recording 4k internally and 1080 on the VA?
Can you see a big difference between the internal 1080 vs the VA 1080?
I know that's a lot of questions, but us NX1 people have to help each other out!
I've also got an NX1 and was thinking of getting the VA. I asked Black Magic and they didn't have any answers because they don't have access to an NX1.

I recently was looking for a new camera, and I, too, re-discovered a forgotten camera. It produces a truly analog, organic look. I got a Sony Handycam Pro Hi8 camera, with CCD sensor!

and S-Video output!

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Just kidding, I got a BMPCC.


 
Disclaimer: I'm not making fun of anyone, I just found that old broken camera buried in a box and couldn't resist the dumb joke.

There has been at least one delivery of a production unit. So its on its way.

Here are a few test videos that I shot a year ago with the Nikon 5200 and 64Mbs hack.
 

well the local guys are actually a bunch of geniuses. My first camera was a Sony a58 which died after 8 months of use. always on auto (i was a complete noob) and still somehow died. Couldnt claim warranty since my sister got it from Canada this time and took it to Sony Malaysia and they said it would take $230 to change shutter and some other things. I didnt bother because by that time i was $400 brand new. And in an event (my sister wedding), the photographer introduced me to his go to repair guy and he repaired my sony for $60. WHICH then died again after 6 months of HEAVY use but I blame the camera not the guy. 
He also fixed the Canon 30D I have. I bought it somewhat running with the display stuck and fungus and dust all over the camera for $50 with lens.He fixed it all for $12.
Anyway, I have my answer So thanks everyone for helping me with the decision! Won't buy a camera for another 2 months perhaps but when I do, I shall get the nikon.

This is a killer price for a really capable DSLR for video and stills. Really pretty video, superb stills, takes 30 + years of Nikkor glass.
I bought my D7100 as a refurb in Sept. of 2013 and it's going strong (Nikon refurbs come "as new", complete accessories and sealed package). It lacks 1080p @ 60FPS, and of course it's not 4K, but the image holds up very well in todays' world.  A lot of camera for the money.
Saw it on Adorama, probably at other vendors as well.

You guys have probably already seen it, but here's another vid:

A nifty device on eBay from orpheus_c, it uses the cage's handgrip as a large battery to power your Sony camera. Allowing for much longer run times than what you'd usually get from your FW-50 batteries alone. Curing one of the big complaints about this series of cameras, their poor battery length.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kovacam-18650-battery-handgrip-DC-coupler-for-Kovacam-A7s-II-A7r-II-Cage-/121822159604

Compared to the 700D, the D5200 is hands-down the better image. Big difference all round.
But you may want to get a used D5500 if it's not too much more expensive, because of the flat profile. It grades the best.

MLRawviewer is a good program. I have also used Raw Magic, a Mac app and that is a fairly good program.
Here's a link to a quick and easy workflow. There are probably some better methods, but this is what I used while experimenting with my eos-m. 
https://jason-bowdach.squarespace.com/blog/2014/08/the-easy-way-to-use-magic-lantern-raw-straight-to-prores.html