jase

Exactly the same how I used my GM1 when I had one, although i chose the Standard Profile with everything all the way down. This in combination with film convert is really a good combo! Love the shots btw. Interesting find. You got any shots to share?

As similiar as they look like, I found them pretty different. If you need shallow(er) DoF, then skip the RX100 and go for the LX100. If you however need better slowmo and an even more smaller package, take the RX100. Codec-wise, I found them pretty similiar for the 4K option, 1080p is better on the RX100.

Last week I used my RX100 IV to test the best stabilization mode offered by that and although that one is limited to 1080p 50p, I think it does a pretty amazing job. Not as good as the GX80 obviously, but still I was very suprised. Unfortunately I dont have any clips to share since my Vimeo quota has been reached until next wednesday

You wont regret it mercer. In fact, this lens and the GX80 should form a fantastic combination. Camera gear is getting better so fast nowadays it makes me dizzy.

Sorry for resurrecting this, but I got two more questions. Assume I would use a BMPCC and set it to raw as well as fixed ISO 800 and fixed shutter angle, so that I soley use a VND for exposure in combination with Zebras. How does this work in a bright scene? I mean sure, one can use the VND to bring the exposure down, but what happens if I set the gain in post from ISO800 to ISO200, wouldnt my image than be crushed? Or do you only change the gain afterwards in case you want to bring the ISO up to sth like 1600? What would you guys pay for a used BMPCC with a broken HDMI port? I am not interested in attaching any monitor to it at all, but on the other side selling it again might be pretty hard later on...

However be prepared that it is not plug and play. I got my MS1 and although perfectly balancing it before starting the gimbals helps a lot, i still will have to spend some hours in fine tuning akward PID settings. Other people told me that and I was like "cant be that hard" - well it is. Only consider those devices if you have time to set them up.

I have always been this "only one lens guy". Started with the Voigtländer 25, which happened by chance because i wanted a f0.95 for MFT. Learned to use MF and loved it. Then I wanted more, switched to an A7S with the Canon 35mm 2.0 IS - but the package was too big for me somehow. Now i went back to small via LX100 to RX100. And although i love both of these cameras and the versatility of a zoom lens, i have very mixed feelings. First of all, i absolutely hate fly-by-wire lenses. Full stop, they just suck - focus pulling is not really possible. I have shot many small clips with just that 25mm Voigt and I felt never limited. Nowadays i love to have a zoom but on the same time it makes me lazy and reduces my creativity. Seriously, the Voigtländer is the perfect lens, wasnt it a tad too big for me. On the other hand the size made it perfect for me. While filming i had both hands on the lens, since the GM1 weights nearly nothing. No need for any stabilisation, it just works. All-in-all, i love those packaged monsters like the RX100 and the LX100, however i do miss my GM1 combo with the Voigtländer. Always keep thinking of it. So much i might just buy it again and maybe this time with the GX80. And then i will never ever open this forum again, because it drives my GAS nuts.

yep, you can.

Indeed only version II comes with the clickless aperture. Never missed it, though.

To be honest, til today i am not really able to properly read histograms... I am always working with waveforms, especially the luma curve. Then i ad just shadows, mids and highlights to my likings. I also tend to play with the the exposure slider as well the one for temperature. this in combination with the filmcolor slider is really enough for me (and like i said, i dont have more skills than that).

Same here. I have the FCPX plugin version. First i do all the editing, then start grading. I also bought Color Finale, but I have to admit that FilmConvert really is sufficient for me with their included tools. Usually i tend to bring the shadows down to zero and the highlights to 100, most often i find myself leaving the mids untouched. And i nearly always use FJ SuperX 400, bring the grain a bit down - depending on the original footage. I always use Super35 grain.

Great news! I will be definitely willing to give you comprehensive feedback

Too bad. I hoped for using those on the RX100 IV, but bad luck apparently...

I agree, love the look! BMPCC footage keeps looking very good, it has something magic.

Is the GX80 sensor the same one as the GM1/5, GX7?

I used the commlite with the a7s - worked flawlessly.

Thanks for the replies. So we agree that when setting Zebras to 70% we get better skintones but might get blown highlights. WIth 100% we dont get those blown, but our skintones might not bet at 70IRE. I was just wondering how do you continue in post? Will you try to get the skintones at 70%IRE, thus adjusting the midtones? But this might change the whole picture... Or do you apply a mask on peoples and just adjust those midtones, leaving the remaining picture untouched?

Up until now I am using Zebras at 100% and turning exposure down until highlights dont clip anymore, unless i want it. I always wondered about the different Zebra settings and after researching them I found the idea of setting Zebras at 70% to have optimal exposure for caucasian skin tones quite attractive. Do you guys use that Zebra setting and if yes, do you prefer/like it?

I pulled the trigger for the Beholder MS1 - should complement my RX100 IV pretty good. The H2 looks even more awesome, but is bigger and a few hundred bucks more, so...

where does it say that the stabilization will work on video, too?

One thought that I had this weekend: isnt the bmpcc quite useful for run&gun - contrary what everybody said way back when it was released? My idea: 1. set the Pocket to RAW and ISO800, since everything else can be done in post - check. 2. set shutterangle to 180degrees - check. 3. Avoid the mediocre screen by using a zacuto loupe - check 3. attach a speedbooster and use either the sigma 18-35 or something canon like 2.8 with IS in combination with a variable nd. Now i just have to set aperture and the vnd in combination and im a done? Sure, it still eats SD cards and batteries for breakfast, but other than that i have a RAW setup, which should be easy to handle? Or am i missing sth?

@mercer: i just found some original media and tried to apply filmconvert so that it looks like it did last time, here you go:

Forgive me the stupid question, but which s16 lenses can be adapted to EF mount?

Well, funny part is that the "look" was accomplished simply by adding FilmConvert. This was in the days where my experience was nearly zero. Settings were Standard -5/-5/-5/-5 as suggested by @Inazuma. I am pretty sure this was done using AWB. Just the FilmConvert GH4 Standardprofile. I will dig up my original files over night and try to reassemble the filmconvert settings for you.

i have never used the SLR, so i cant comment on that. But what i do love with the voigt is, that (especially at 0.95) this lens is far away from being perfect with tons of purple fringing, but still a very nice picture. Every once in a while i look back at an old snapshot of mine that i took in combination with the GM1 and the Tiffen Ultra Contrast Filter and after watching i always have to resist the urge to buy that combo again. Fuck GAS.