sandro

Even here they noticed there's a strange jump in noise form 1600 and 3200 (@ 17:40), I actually noticed it from 2000 to 2500 but I guess it's the same thing using half stop ISO. I don't really agree with line skipping, I'm positive something is hardcoded to jump the NR above ISO 2000.

40 minutes ago, cojocaru27 said:

but you have it, you just have to switch it to manual focus from the lens i guess. What i find really anoying is that when you have the single AF and you put your focus on something it doesn't stay there, it starts focusing on whatever come's in the frame. Bothers me. Have to use manual focus all the time now.

Not on the kit lens (pancake) it's all electronic and there's no switch. Every time you stop recording it goes back to AF... that's why I asked. 

Buy Samsung camera division and make the NX2

Any hack supporting full time manual focus in video for Samsung lenses?

55 minutes ago, Kisaha said:

IIt is almost a 28-308 lens, not a 24-150.

I have a NX500 and I use both cameras, NX500 is so small, that you can have one of the cheap.zooms or small prime ot even The fish eye on it. Cheaper tham A 18-200 zoom lens, and a second body forinterviews or live/events videophotography.

t is alnost

Sorry for the "retarded" typing, blame it to been near The beach on southern Grecce, and terrible forum/android cooperation.

I actually meant that range 24-150 (not 35 mm equivalent). The 18-200 is the only lens available close to that and with AF.

I don't know if this is connected but I'm getting micro exposure changes when I zoom in and out with the kit lens. If doesn't really make sense, is this normal? I set the aperture to f/5.6, shutter speed 1/60 and manual focus. How do you explain this change in exposure while zooming? If the lens maximum aperture is 5.6 why and how does it get darker/brighter?
IIRC it also happens with the 18-200, is this a "bug" of electronically controlled lenses?

Edit: it doesn't happen in still mode so it's a software issue...

11 hours ago, ttbek said:

For Sandro, the 18-200 is the problem.  I think f/6.3 is perhaps too dark for the on sensor PDAF points to be effective. 

It misses continuously even out in the sun... if an adapter with AF comes out I would gladly sell this shitty lens! Problem is that you if you need that range=24-150 that lens is the only way

57 minutes ago, Marco Tecno said:

You must use S lenses to get the most out nx1 af: 50-150 is outstanding.

If they made more S lenses it would have been great. They're not even available anymore... that's why I said it's not a good system for pics also.

Anyway back to the topic I'm also interested in knowing that happens to the quality.

I'm not talking about quality and the sensor. As you may know I worked on ski slopes for a season and it was an absolute nightmare. I needed a versatile lens so the 18-200mm was the only choice too bad the glass is just below average, it misses the focus so often that it makes you wanna smash the camera. Sometimes it won't even find a point to focus! And this happens with kit lens as well, so this mirrorless system it's not ready for photography (used this way). My 550D even in low light it just focus the NX1 don't even know what to look for.
Change lens? No one ever produced lenses for the NX systems with AF so...

I love it for video and stills but for that kind of work (sports) it's absolutely not the right system. Also because the native and third party lenses selection is poor and now non existent. But yeah if you do any other kind of photography nothing to complain. The thing is when I see "professional work" (not that the result is anything professional, as GOOD) they all rely on AF and speed, the NX1 just can't keep up.

On 7/3/2016 at 4:09 AM, Escapist said:

Here's something I filmed with the A6300 and the 16-50mm kit lens:

 

That was great for being in the kit lens really. ISO?

1 hour ago, Marco Tecno said:

Yep, that's why I want the intelligent adapter. I'm more a still shooter, after all.

Honestly if you're a still shooter Samsung NX system is the wrong choice...

I just realized that if an electronic adapter could be made this will open the NX mount to all lenses made for Canon and Niknon with AF as well (maybe even OIS?). 
For video a speed booster is more exciting though. 

4 hours ago, lucabutera said:

Samsung nx100 + NX/EF SB + CANON 50MM 1.8 II

I CAN DO IT!

Is it being  controlled electronically? Aperture seems to change? Focused manually?

If I use +15 MBL is it possible to recover a less gray image in post?

Which alternative to the Samsung 16-50 S? Maybe a 17-50 f2.8? 

F8 on NXL equals to F5.6 right?

In this picture it's pretty clear. This is ISO 6400.

The Samsung 16-50 s seems impossible to find now. Am i right?

So about the issue I now have time to sent it to warranty. Do you confirm this sensor is defective?
I bumped the blue level to make it more relevant. It's always at the bottom left. In homogeneous dark scenes you can you clearly see they are too lines.

Do you need to buy the premiere plugin to use the profile?

4 hours ago, Hene1 said:

GammaDR gives the most natural look and you can add contrast to it if you need. I have been shooting close to 100 hours this summer and when using normal or GammaC it's hard to manage scenes that are partly sun partly shade. I tried ricardos settings, but the colors were ultimately too fake and blend. It's not really fun to look image that is so gray. In stills it seems nice, but watching even 2 minute video with it is just exhausting.

Which are the Ricardo's settings?

Why are you guys mainly interested in electronic control (af and is) of canon lenses and not Nikon's?

5 hours ago, kidzrevil said:

The profiles I use are standard,portrait & gamma c at default settings with -10 sharpness and +15 Master pedestal. Its not worth touching the contrast settings on the nx1. 

Why gamma c instead of gamma dr?

4 minutes ago, kidzrevil said:

I still wanna know if @Otto K @kinoseed or @vasile can give us a constant high res EVF like it is when you switch to movie standby mode. That will make shooting stills infinitey easier with this camera

Also I would like to know if anyone noticed that strange bump in light from ISO 2000 and 2500 I talked about before. Could be a sign NR ia activated.

26 minutes ago, ricardo_sousa11 said:

 Maybe have a poll to figure out what settings most people are currently using.

This.

I'm fine with a dumb speedbooster for now. +1 stop of light and 35mm DOF!