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Posts posted by sandro

  1. 5 hours ago, Chant said:

    It was in a cpu config file. But in early firmware, I am plotting the changes and original values to see what sort of leverage can happen with them.


    This is something that I have also been looking into. With luck it is just the change of an output flag and see if things can be pushed to a higher limit. HEVC and other compression systems are less intensive with less compression, so in theory it should be able to bump up to the bus limit and have less compressed files. In the later firmware the change from 15fps to 25fps for the raw output sort of shows the ceiling of bandwidth the processor can handle. Give or take 30MB raw file x 25fps data stream is 750MBs/6000Mbs

    My goal is to see how close to the spec of a red weapon the nx1 can be. HEVC is sort of a pain but the way it works is more like the wavelet based .r3d files when HEVC is at lower compression rates. But the more I find the more interesting things get. And the things they did for this camera make it vastly unique compared to a canon or a sony.


    The complexity of the nx1 makes that quite hard, if I am correct and there is an fpga/cpld core on board it gets more tricky. I have seen some signs though. No confirmation yet. More work will be done tonight on the dive though. I have compiled a large data sheet already on the things I have found in the first firmware update. But going though the code takes time.


    And if people are having issues with HEVC I highly recommend getting a GTX960 so far the only gpu with fully enabled on board HEVC encode/decode and boy does it work well. And they are not very expensive. If you go by how HEVC does compression, when you transcode it would be in the Gbs if the data rate is doubled on camera

    with what editing software? Adobe premiere afaik doesn't support hw decoding of hevc

    39 minutes ago, Jimmy said:

    If you need help with the UI, just message me... I design for Android, so should be fairly similar.

    i can help as well

  2. I always had a thing for Samyang lenses. What worries me is that some lenses are only available for mirrorless mounts and the new ones not even for the NX mount :( I would feel more safe investing in lenses for the Nikon F mount you know?

  3. 47 minutes ago, SMGJohn said:

    You can always get a cheap Thermographic camera and that way you can see how much it heats up during tests, however from my own experience I have not had any issues, its gotten real hot but still worked just fine and I did a lot of shoot with it once without little breathing in between.

    There should be possibility to dump the RAW files to the card like Magic Lantern, do remember the live view is 2k~ at 50/60fps if choosen in the menu also I cannot see the 3200ISO blue lines in the live view that a lot of folks here seem to complain about, its clearly not the censor and more in the noise reduction and probably compression too.

    I honestly never tried to see if the lines are on the livieview...what if they can't be seen due to size and amoled?


    Update: just checked through the EFV and yes blue lines from high iso are also in the live view

  4. 43 minutes ago, mercer said:

    In my opinion you want to get lenses from the same manufacturer from the same lens line up. If I were you, I would start investing in the Rokinon/Samyang/Bower lenses. Or if they're a little too pricy for you, then breakdown your lens line up into interior and exterior lenses. By doing this the slight difference in lens characteristics can be negated. Btw, what type of video work do you do? This also can help to steer you in a specific direction. 

    This one is for pics in low light :)

  5. 1 hour ago, SMGJohn said:

    If I remember correctly from working with GH3 footage the banding was nowhere near as bad as on the Samsung NX1 of course Samsung fixed a lot of the shitty colour bleeding and terrible banding issues with the newest firmwares but the banding still persists, its there if you pay attention and you definitely will see it when you work with the files.

    I can apply the LOG profile from EOSHD to the NX1 footage with the proper settings in place, if I push colours too much I see banding, I have some GH4 footage I shot before I sold it duo to the low light performance being unsatisfying, I can push the colours quite extreme without seeing any form of banding, even in the 1080p footage. Obviously the NX1 has way better colour range than the GH4 with Cine-D and I sadly its almost a year and half since I sold the GH4 and back then we had no idea there was an actual LOG profile coming for it at all, not even the news about the beta LOG being worked at. 

    Its pretty clear its the HEVC codec doing it, I have reproduced some of the nastiness of the HEVC by using clean high bit depth images with gradients applied and noise in sections to see what the codec does to it, indeed the codec does cause banding at 8bit output, it also smoothens out noise in low detailed areas, I further checked with a still picture shot at 1600 ISO with some fine grains, again I see the same the codec smoothens out the flat areas, in high detailed areas it leaves but every area that has no details the codec smooths out, the earlier versions of HEVC were terrible at detecting detailed areas its gotten better. I will just assume here the NX1 uses the earlier version of the HEVC codec because its clearly destroying details in out of focus dark areas were the codec is struggling to detect details. It gets worse when you lower the video bitrate as well of course the in-camera noise reduction in video does not help at all just makes the issue far worse than it should be. 
    Its managable but if we can turn off noise reduction in video, that would be a life saver for all of us because many of us does not have the luxury of light to shoot one or two stops over. Some of us are forced to shot stops under, its either that or very high ISO and we all know what happens then... 

    I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. You may be referring to the banding in colors due to compression? I'm talking about the blue bands you get at high ISO, from 3200.

  6. What do you guys think of the fujifilm 18mm f2 as a fast wide angle lens? I see it has an aperture ring so it could be used on the nx1 easily right? It's fairly cheap.


    oh wait...just realized it's for fuji mirroless cameras...

  7. 15 hours ago, Otto K said:

    OK, an update:

    If you want to experiment with your device but don't want to be constantly reinserting the SD card - here's the solution.

    First, unfortunately, NX500/NX1 do not use busybox but toybox that does not contain telnetd. However, there is nothing stopping you from extracting it from NX300 open source packages (available at Samsung Open Source repo) and copying it to SD card (and naming it "telnetd") and runnig it from there. Just remember that you need to give yourself some time to turn the wifi on after powering the camera. Login is "root" and there is no password. So, after the camera boots and telnetd starts, you do

    Connected to
    Escape character is '^]'.

    *                 SAMSUNG LINUX PLATFORM                   *

    drime5 login: root

    [[email protected] ~]# ps aux
    root        1  0.4  0.2   4684  1452 ?        Ss   23:15   0:01 /sbin/init
    root        2  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [kthreadd]
    root        3  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksoftirqd/0]


    root      363  0.1  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksdioirqd/mmc1]
    root      399  0.0  0.0   4696   380 ?        S<s  23:16   0:00 /mnt/mmc/telnetd
    root      402  0.0  0.2   2704  1352 pts/0    S<s  23:16   0:00 -sh
    root      469  3.0  0.1   2664   904 pts/0    R<+  23:20   0:00 ps aux

    Yippie - we have remote root!

    The fun stuff is the command st. It's swiss army knife - it contains everything. For example, you want to take a "smart" shot?

    st cap capt smart

    Work with aperture?

    st cap capt iris drive 7.1

    Shoot in RAW?

    st cap capt quality raw

    Help works in most things, just add help (e.g. st cap capt help).

    You want to push an OK button?

    st key click ok

    You can also push/release it in two steps.

    How about jog dials?

    st key jog jog1_cw or jog1_ccw

    You want to touch the screen in exact coordinates?

    st key touch push/release/click 400 300

    There is so many things available, just explore st app nx capture (for stills) or st app nx record (for video)...

    Very interesting. I would like to test this, could you please upload telnetd since the samsung site takes forever to download?


  8. In bright light the focus is not that much of a problem it's in low light that it just won't focus.. and by low light I mean great lit indoors. I don't think it's the lens though... I read that even the 16-50 S sucks in low light but I thought a real low light!!!

  9. Hello,

    I'm using the nx1 for stills for my job and I find the AF extremely bad, not in line  to what reviews said. My old Canon 550D is much faster and better in low light.

    I'm using it on the ski slopes with the 18-200mm with very good light and sometimes it misses the focus or is not that fast. Tonight i tried to use it indoors in a very good lit restaurant. At 18 till 70mm it would focus eventually, beyond it just hunts for focus and then give up, while any DSLR would focus instantly. I thought that with phase detection mirrorless cameras would behave the same as DSLR but I guess I was wrong.

    I tried to use every single focus option but for certain situations it just won't focus at all like if you're focussing on a white wall. 

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