sandro

43 minutes ago, mercer said:

In my opinion you want to get lenses from the same manufacturer from the same lens line up. If I were you, I would start investing in the Rokinon/Samyang/Bower lenses. Or if they're a little too pricy for you, then breakdown your lens line up into interior and exterior lenses. By doing this the slight difference in lens characteristics can be negated. Btw, what type of video work do you do? This also can help to steer you in a specific direction. 

This one is for pics in low light

Great!Anything else? Maybe narrower focal range?

which is the best fast prime (1.4-1.8) to use on the NX1? Manual lenses are fine. Should be between 24-40mm or 50mm if necessary. Anything cheaper than the sigma 35mm 1.4?

4) and 1) are definitely my top choices. It's a shame a camera like this is unusable at 3200.

I think the problem is also hw. It will probably use hw decoding for h.265 and only work on specific settings. Unless they wanted to add it later the gpu won't be able to process anything above 8bit 420 and specific bitrate.

1 hour ago, SMGJohn said:

If I remember correctly from working with GH3 footage the banding was nowhere near as bad as on the Samsung NX1 of course Samsung fixed a lot of the shitty colour bleeding and terrible banding issues with the newest firmwares but the banding still persists, its there if you pay attention and you definitely will see it when you work with the files.

I can apply the LOG profile from EOSHD to the NX1 footage with the proper settings in place, if I push colours too much I see banding, I have some GH4 footage I shot before I sold it duo to the low light performance being unsatisfying, I can push the colours quite extreme without seeing any form of banding, even in the 1080p footage. Obviously the NX1 has way better colour range than the GH4 with Cine-D and I sadly its almost a year and half since I sold the GH4 and back then we had no idea there was an actual LOG profile coming for it at all, not even the news about the beta LOG being worked at. 

Its pretty clear its the HEVC codec doing it, I have reproduced some of the nastiness of the HEVC by using clean high bit depth images with gradients applied and noise in sections to see what the codec does to it, indeed the codec does cause banding at 8bit output, it also smoothens out noise in low detailed areas, I further checked with a still picture shot at 1600 ISO with some fine grains, again I see the same the codec smoothens out the flat areas, in high detailed areas it leaves but every area that has no details the codec smooths out, the earlier versions of HEVC were terrible at detecting detailed areas its gotten better. I will just assume here the NX1 uses the earlier version of the HEVC codec because its clearly destroying details in out of focus dark areas were the codec is struggling to detect details. It gets worse when you lower the video bitrate as well of course the in-camera noise reduction in video does not help at all just makes the issue far worse than it should be. 
Its managable but if we can turn off noise reduction in video, that would be a life saver for all of us because many of us does not have the luxury of light to shoot one or two stops over. Some of us are forced to shot stops under, its either that or very high ISO and we all know what happens then... 

I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. You may be referring to the banding in colors due to compression? I'm talking about the blue bands you get at high ISO, from 3200.

What do you guys think of the fujifilm 18mm f2 as a fast wide angle lens? I see it has an aperture ring so it could be used on the nx1 easily right? It's fairly cheap.

oh wait...just realized it's for fuji mirroless cameras...

15 hours ago, kidzrevil said:

Could be. It IS downscaling from a 6.5k sensor instead of doing a 1:1 crop of the sensor. Could be how it downscales

I think the GH3 used to have this banding issue...and I guess it was the just sensor.

what if it's just the sensor? You get lines at 3200 not grain.

15 hours ago, Otto K said:

OK, an update:

If you want to experiment with your device but don't want to be constantly reinserting the SD card - here's the solution.

First, unfortunately, NX500/NX1 do not use busybox but toybox that does not contain telnetd. However, there is nothing stopping you from extracting it from NX300 open source packages (available at Samsung Open Source repo) and copying it to SD card (and naming it "telnetd") and runnig it from there. Just remember that you need to give yourself some time to turn the wifi on after powering the camera. Login is "root" and there is no password. So, after the camera boots and telnetd starts, you do

telnet 192.168.1.44
Trying 192.168.1.44...
Connected to 192.168.1.44.
Escape character is '^]'.

************************************************************
*                 SAMSUNG LINUX PLATFORM                   *
************************************************************

drime5 login: root

[root@drime5 ~]# ps aux
USER      PID %CPU %MEM    VSZ   RSS TTY      STAT START   TIME COMMAND
root        1  0.4  0.2   4684  1452 ?        Ss   23:15   0:01 /sbin/init
root        2  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [kthreadd]
root        3  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksoftirqd/0]

...

root      363  0.1  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksdioirqd/mmc1]
root      399  0.0  0.0   4696   380 ?        S<s  23:16   0:00 /mnt/mmc/telnetd
root      402  0.0  0.2   2704  1352 pts/0    S<s  23:16   0:00 -sh
root      469  3.0  0.1   2664   904 pts/0    R<+  23:20   0:00 ps aux

Yippie - we have remote root!

The fun stuff is the command st. It's swiss army knife - it contains everything. For example, you want to take a "smart" shot?

st cap capt smart

Work with aperture?

st cap capt iris drive 7.1

Shoot in RAW?

st cap capt quality raw

Help works in most things, just add help (e.g. st cap capt help).

You want to push an OK button?

st key click ok

You can also push/release it in two steps.

How about jog dials?

st key jog jog1_cw or jog1_ccw

You want to touch the screen in exact coordinates?

st key touch push/release/click 400 300

There is so many things available, just explore st app nx capture (for stills) or st app nx record (for video)...

Very interesting. I would like to test this, could you please upload telnetd since the samsung site takes forever to download?

shouldn't be phase detection like DSLRs?

In bright light the focus is not that much of a problem it's in low light that it just won't focus.. and by low light I mean great lit indoors. I don't think it's the lens though... I read that even the 16-50 S sucks in low light but I thought a real low light!!!

Hello,

I'm using the nx1 for stills for my job and I find the AF extremely bad, not in line  to what reviews said. My old Canon 550D is much faster and better in low light.

I'm using it on the ski slopes with the 18-200mm with very good light and sometimes it misses the focus or is not that fast. Tonight i tried to use it indoors in a very good lit restaurant. At 18 till 70mm it would focus eventually, beyond it just hunts for focus and then give up, while any DSLR would focus instantly. I thought that with phase detection mirrorless cameras would behave the same as DSLR but I guess I was wrong.

I tried to use every single focus option but for certain situations it just won't focus at all like if you're focussing on a white wall. 

60i what the hell?

Higher bitrates will help in 120fps setting otherwise at 3200 ISO 4k the noise will be as bad since you get those horrible blue lines that have nothing to do with NR... it's the sensor.

How much do you think I should pay for the pentax I mentioned?

If the FD lenses are much better and even cheaper then I no advantage going Pentax

I'm interested more in the 28mm and zoom. Depends if the 28mm at f2.8 is decently sharp.

I've been offered the following Pentax vintage lenses: 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7, 35-105 f3.5... anyone ever used these?

3 minutes ago, Geoff CB said:

You can freely adjust the framing of the sensor crop. Which I really like, would be useful for anamorphic shooting my SLR magic and would really help for event coverage.

So you don't actually get a s35 focal length?

How do m43 lenses cover the s35 sensor?

Something it missing: inbody stabilization, I doubt lenses' IS works right?

Hi,
do you have other lenses with no focus breathing? Seems like almost all the Nikon lenses have it.

21 minutes ago, BrorSvensson said:

if it cant be downscaled, how come the canon 5d mark iii can do raw full frame at 1080 with a 21mp sensor?

could be because the processor has been developed to downscale in hardware?

I have always dreamed of the GH camera with a super 35mm sensor

 Thanks, why is the Olympus so expensive?