sandro

15 hours ago, Otto K said:

OK, an update:

If you want to experiment with your device but don't want to be constantly reinserting the SD card - here's the solution.

First, unfortunately, NX500/NX1 do not use busybox but toybox that does not contain telnetd. However, there is nothing stopping you from extracting it from NX300 open source packages (available at Samsung Open Source repo) and copying it to SD card (and naming it "telnetd") and runnig it from there. Just remember that you need to give yourself some time to turn the wifi on after powering the camera. Login is "root" and there is no password. So, after the camera boots and telnetd starts, you do

telnet 192.168.1.44
Trying 192.168.1.44...
Connected to 192.168.1.44.
Escape character is '^]'.

************************************************************
*                 SAMSUNG LINUX PLATFORM                   *
************************************************************

drime5 login: root

[root@drime5 ~]# ps aux
USER      PID %CPU %MEM    VSZ   RSS TTY      STAT START   TIME COMMAND
root        1  0.4  0.2   4684  1452 ?        Ss   23:15   0:01 /sbin/init
root        2  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [kthreadd]
root        3  0.0  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksoftirqd/0]

...

root      363  0.1  0.0      0     0 ?        S    23:15   0:00 [ksdioirqd/mmc1]
root      399  0.0  0.0   4696   380 ?        S<s  23:16   0:00 /mnt/mmc/telnetd
root      402  0.0  0.2   2704  1352 pts/0    S<s  23:16   0:00 -sh
root      469  3.0  0.1   2664   904 pts/0    R<+  23:20   0:00 ps aux

Yippie - we have remote root!

The fun stuff is the command st. It's swiss army knife - it contains everything. For example, you want to take a "smart" shot?

st cap capt smart

Work with aperture?

st cap capt iris drive 7.1

Shoot in RAW?

st cap capt quality raw

Help works in most things, just add help (e.g. st cap capt help).

You want to push an OK button?

st key click ok

You can also push/release it in two steps.

How about jog dials?

st key jog jog1_cw or jog1_ccw

You want to touch the screen in exact coordinates?

st key touch push/release/click 400 300

There is so many things available, just explore st app nx capture (for stills) or st app nx record (for video)...

Very interesting. I would like to test this, could you please upload telnetd since the samsung site takes forever to download?

shouldn't be phase detection like DSLRs?

In bright light the focus is not that much of a problem it's in low light that it just won't focus.. and by low light I mean great lit indoors. I don't think it's the lens though... I read that even the 16-50 S sucks in low light but I thought a real low light!!!

Hello,

I'm using the nx1 for stills for my job and I find the AF extremely bad, not in line  to what reviews said. My old Canon 550D is much faster and better in low light.

I'm using it on the ski slopes with the 18-200mm with very good light and sometimes it misses the focus or is not that fast. Tonight i tried to use it indoors in a very good lit restaurant. At 18 till 70mm it would focus eventually, beyond it just hunts for focus and then give up, while any DSLR would focus instantly. I thought that with phase detection mirrorless cameras would behave the same as DSLR but I guess I was wrong.

I tried to use every single focus option but for certain situations it just won't focus at all like if you're focussing on a white wall. 

60i what the hell?

Higher bitrates will help in 120fps setting otherwise at 3200 ISO 4k the noise will be as bad since you get those horrible blue lines that have nothing to do with NR... it's the sensor.

How much do you think I should pay for the pentax I mentioned?

If the FD lenses are much better and even cheaper then I no advantage going Pentax

I'm interested more in the 28mm and zoom. Depends if the 28mm at f2.8 is decently sharp.

I've been offered the following Pentax vintage lenses: 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7, 35-105 f3.5... anyone ever used these?

3 minutes ago, Geoff CB said:

You can freely adjust the framing of the sensor crop. Which I really like, would be useful for anamorphic shooting my SLR magic and would really help for event coverage.

So you don't actually get a s35 focal length?

How do m43 lenses cover the s35 sensor?

Something it missing: inbody stabilization, I doubt lenses' IS works right?

Hi,
do you have other lenses with no focus breathing? Seems like almost all the Nikon lenses have it.

21 minutes ago, BrorSvensson said:

if it cant be downscaled, how come the canon 5d mark iii can do raw full frame at 1080 with a 21mp sensor?

could be because the processor has been developed to downscale in hardware?

I have always dreamed of the GH camera with a super 35mm sensor

 Thanks, why is the Olympus so expensive?

What about Vivitar 24mm f2?

3 hours ago, Geoff CB said:

Going to be pretty hard to find for under $500. Nikon 20mm f1.8 is what immediately comes to mind.

I might as well get the samyang the 21mm f1.4 for less.

39 minutes ago, ReinisK said:

Looking at the information found about nx300 hack (the one which disables recording time limit), it seems that one way of doing some hacking would be with a firmware update.

Another way of doing it might be through wifi or connecting the camera to pc with a cable. If it would be possible to enter the camera as a developer/debug mode, maybe some code could be changed right in the camera.

As I understand, that nx1.zip file contains the updated firmware 1.4 which is running on the camera. Now when we have access to it, we can find the parameters, that describe the things we need to change, let's try the bitrate first. I just used search and was able to find many mentions of "bitrate" in the zip along with numbers like "min = 6000000" and "max = 8000000". Don't know what these numbers are for, but that is a start. So we need to find the right numbers and pack them in a new firmware update, like the nx300 hacker did.

Here is a description of that process: https://sites.google.com/site/nxcryptophotography/diy-firmware

And then someone needs to be brave enough to test it :D

 

i guess it's 80mbit

I have two questions now:

- do you have a list of the best lenses for money with no focus breathing and parfocal?
- what is the best lenses I could get with an aperture of f2 or lower that is in the 10-24 range? I was thinking a samyang, I'm asking because I need to avoid ISO above 1600 for the NX1 and I noticed that f2.8 from the Tokina 11-16 is not enough sometimes

Obviously vintage lenses are more than welcome!

7 hours ago, mercer said:

I was just looking for a constant aperture zoom. I looked on eBay and saw the 35-105mm and then found this. For 30 bucks I thought what the hell. I had a small set of FD lenses. I sold all of them... Some of which I paid 3 or 4 times more, but won't sell this. The only issue I have with the lens is that the filter ring is recessed, so it is hard to mount and nd filter. But even at 5.6 you get good bokeh. In fact, I don't think any of the shallow focus shots in that video were shot wide open. 

So ND filters are impossibile to use?

20 minutes ago, mercer said:

Great lens. I bought this on a whim for 30 bucks. 

Here it is on an eos-m...

Almost zero breathing and amazing bokeh for an f4 lens. 

How did you find this?? I just love no focus breathing lenses now!

Ok i finally got it... The tokina 28-70mm f2.8 I was looking at is the pro I (2.6-2.8) also known as the best one It looks like that one because it's the same, the difference is in Japan was never marketed as 2.6!

Speedbooster on the nx1?

Anyway what I would like is not a super image quality but just that constant aperture on the focal range with virtually no focus breathing. Sharpness should be just acceptable.

Thanks guys  version 1 is the one reviewed right? Shouldn't avoid this one since it's not from the "legendary" design?