ntblowz

It can do internal 4K60P in 10bit 420 HEVC, which S1 is only 420 8bit internal in 4K60p.

Even Vincent Laforet got Komodo himself.. the guy who started this whole dslr craze! But in the comment ppl say wtf is this guy how dare him tag jarred in it.  Red Fanboy is just embarrassing themselves.🤣
 

Even Vincent Laforet got Komodo himself.. the guy who started this whole dslr craze! But in the comment ppl say wtf is this guy how dare him tag jarred in it.  Red Fanboy is just embarrassing themselves.🤣
 

If this model retains at least a decent 10-bit 4K mode of some description, and vlog, well Canon could be a little sore after the R5 debacle 😅
https://www.l-rumors.com/confirmed-panasonic-will-soon-announce-the-new-s5-entry-level-full-frame-l-mount-camera
I do wonder what this means for a GH6, if there is still one in the works or if full-frame is pretty much the Pana roadmap now...
All the S5 needs really is to be a lighter, stabilised run and gun with their solid 150mbps 4k 10-bit and it'll sell a bunch.

No it doesn't.
It reads the temperature status from the API.
This is an entirely different thing to the temperature as a value, which is being read from the EXIF in the exposed image.
The temperature status is the camera's own interpretation of its internal temperature with relation to what restrictions it will apply to camera operations. 
When this is "normal" everything is, well, "normal" and the camera is reporting that there is no cause for alarm or any restrictions.
It then goes through an escalation process of different inhibitors including, amongst other things, restricting fps, reducing image quality and prohibiting recording.
There is no interpretation other than by Canon of that status as it is being reported through the API.
The temperature in the exif is being used as a comparative indicator of what the actual internal temperature (or one of them) is and provides a visual reference (as it is pointed at the screen of the app) to cross reference which inhibitors are activated and deactivated as time progresses.
The rate at which the camera is commanded to take an image is variable so I'd probably stay tuned for a few more tests at different rates.

I'm not the guy to take on opening up a camera but today I'm outside in 102 degrees recording 4K HQ externally for 45 minutes straight with no overheat warning. ( Camera screen off ) and the camera was very HOT to the touch, much hotter than I've experienced at any point during my test and I have shot in 97 degrees where the camera shut down at 42 minutes. Only difference was that the screen was on before, and here it was off. The camera felt much hotter today though. It was hot enough that I was concerned.
I was pretty shocked that it didn't overheat, and even more shocked it didn't show the warning. I brought the camera indoors while it was still recording, grabbed my CFexpress card and inserted while camera was still recording. When you open the card door, the camera temporarily shuts down.
When I closed the door the camera went right back to recording through the Ninja V. I shut the Ninja V down, and my 4K HQ time allowance was 20 minutes.
I shut the camera down again, and back on it, it still read 20 minutes. About 5 minutes later the camera was showing 25 minutes, this is while the camera still felt very warm to the touch. 

Some cameras shoot RAW and Prores, and some shoot h264 and a few shoot h265.  There's lots of bitrates on offer too, 50Mbps, 100Mbps, etc.  Some are ALL-I and some are IPB.
But how good are they?
I couldn't find any comparisons, so I did some myself.
What I did was take a few shots from the BM Micro Cinema Camera shot in uncompressed RAW of a tree moving in the wind, and made a single UHD frame by putting them in each corner, like this:

Also, they were of different lengths, so I just repeated each one, like this:

So we have a test clip that was shot RAW (maybe compressing already compressed footage is easier?  I don't know, anyway..), that includes decent movement but isn't some stupid test case that means nothing in real life, that doesn't repeat (because the clips are different lengths), and has some deliberately almost crushed blacks to test the pixelation that h264 and h265 sometimes get in the shadows.
Then I exported an uncompressed 10-bit 422 YUV file to use as a reference.  After some tests and seeing the file sizes and processing times, I decided to only use the first 12s of the timeline.
Then I rendered a bunch of clips, either h264 from Resolve, or h264 and h265 from ffmpeg.  I tried rendering h265 from Resolve but had issues, and in this test all the maximum bitrates I tried all created the same size file, so I abandoned that.  Common wisdom online is that Resolves h265 export mechanism isn't the best and you should use ffmpeg anyway.
Then I compared the compressed clips with the uncompressed reference file, which gives a score called SSIM, which goes from 1 (a perfect match) downwards.
Here's the results so far:

Here are some observations / thoughts, and some answers to some questions I'd had:
In Resolve, H264 seems to top out, as I couldn't get it to export at more than about 400Mbps IPB, but ffmpeg went higher than that quite happily ALL-I h264 doesn't seem to be that different than IPB, at higher bitrates anyway - slightly lower quality and slightly higher file size, but not the 3x I've read around the place Prores isn't that much worse in terms of quality vs compression than h264 or h265, despite being an older codec (although maybe there are versions?  I have no idea how prores works.. maybe that's important for this topic?) Different encoders have different levels of quality, so what's in a given camera is likely to differ from these results I guess the real question is, how much h264 do you have to have to equate to Prores?  The answer seems to be "about the same bitrate, but probably a little less for an ALL-I codec, and a little less bitrate again if it's an IPB".

The recovery time is totally bogus on Canon camera, that one should be totally removed!

A good reaction on Twitter:

I agree with Quinn about it being a bad look.
They need to at the very least come clean, answer, own up and apologise.
Then fix it.

Absolutely.
Sigma and Panasonic are my top picks

EOSHD testing finds Canon EOS R5 overheating to be fake, with artificial timers deployed to lock out video mode. In this test, we will probe my Canon EOS R5’s actual internal temperature in Celsius, as reported by the firmware.
This week CDA-TEK and I are developing an Android app for the Canon EOS R5, which connects to the camera via the Canon API...
Please read the rest of the article on the blog carefully before commenting below

I sold my GH5S on eBay with the PanaLeica 12-60, a battery grip and 5 OEM batteries for $1800. I had a dozen picks of the camera, the sensor, the lens from and rear elements and the camera LCD. I was running an auction with the Or Best Offer option, and someone reached out to me with a buy it now for $1800, so I took it, as I was trying to fund an S1H purchase. After a week of receiving my camera, he complained that the unit was not as described, and wanted to send it back even though I said there were no returns! I said what was wrong with the camera, and he said there was a scratch on the bottom of the camera near the tripod mount! 

Ebay forced me to accept the return, and this fuck effectively got a free two week rental out of my camera!
Ebay can eat ass juice for all I care.

Camera Conspiracies loves EOSHD

Yesterday Amazon dropped off the last piece I needed for my Ninja V to try my own R5 / Ninja V test today.
Yesterday - First attempt: Camera setup with the overheat control setting on, screen on, 4K HQ 30.
No card in camera. Canon LP-E6NH battery in camera
Camera was sitting in direct sun light at 97°F
Continuous recording started and camera overheat warning came on at around 37 minutes or so, it shutdown at around 42 minutes, which aligns exactly with what John Gress stated in his video that Trek of Joy posted here earlier.
When camera shut off, I immediately turned it back on and the camera still showed the 8K, 4K 120, and HQ options available. Makes me think it’s more of the firmware parameters set by Canon here. Camera was hot to the touch.
time between test: 45 minutes to an hour
Yesterday - Second attempt: Kept the settings at 4K HQ 30, screen on, but turned off the overheat control setting.
No card in camera. Canon LP-E6NH battery in camera.
Camera was sitting in shaded garage at 97°F
Camera overheat warning appeared at 37 minutes, shutdown at 42 minutes. Camera was warm to the touch.
Today - Third attempt: No prior operation before test... Camera setup 4K HQ 24p, overheat control setting off, screen on.
Camera indoors in my office, with A/C on set at 72°F
No card in camera. Canon LP-E6NH battery in camera.
Camera overheat warning came on same time at and lasted to about 42 minutes. Camera was warm to the touch.
The times I am seeing align with Geralds test, except the overheat control setting didn't seem to change much on or off, and I had no cards in camera for all recordings. 
Haven't tried with camera screen off, but I don't believe the Cfexpress cards are a notable factor in overheating, as believed by the ( nolifedigital ) guy.
 
 

in comparison

XT3 4k 60fps ------ 16.0 ms (15.6-16.0-16.3)
C200 (4k=1080p) --- 16.1 ms (4k: 15.5-16.2-16.9, 1080p: 15.5-16.0-16.6)
BM p4k 4k --------- 16.2 ms (official)
a7III 4k 1.2x 30p - 16.7 ms (dpreview)
 
Definitely pretty impressive for a 45MP sensor!

A7SIII is the closet FF camera that has come to pulling me out of MFT land as a primary camera. The 12MP sensor kinda kills it for me. I wish it was closer to 20MP for photography. 15MP might have been doable...
MFT still has steam in it for at least one more round of GH and GX cameras. I honestly think they are waiting for a more compelling MFT sensor from Sony. That, or they are experimenting with doing something funky with S35 or preparing a FF S L-mount camera that will replace the MFT GH cameras.
So I wait for news on GH6 camera while still happily enjoying my 5S.
BTW, since this thread hasn’t been derailed enough already. Here is a shot from my first outing out with the 7Artisans 60mm macro. I sipped coffee with my hand on the shutter for about 45 mins off and on until one lucky bee came along.
 

The guy in that chinese owner thread let aircon blow for half hour after the camera overheated,  it can still only do 5min 8k or 10min 4k even though the body is really cold and even got condensation around it, so definitely some dodgy firmware trick there..

So going back to the actual internal design of the EOS R5...
The questions Canon need to answer are:
1. Why is a circuit board sitting between the main CPU and back casing, blocking the heat from spreading away into the chassis
2. Of course, why is there no thermal conductive material on the CPU?
3. And why does the RAM thermal pad overlap onto the CPU, but not entirely cover it? (It seems to spread the heat from the RAM onto the CPU which is never a good idea).
4. Why does ice not cool the camera and speed up recovery time? The firmware recovery countdown timer is so slow to go back up and always the same.
And indeed they will be asked via my contact at Canon UK.
And I won't let up until they answer.
If they don't answer, they have something to hide obviously.

Can’t wait for Porsche to release a new 911 with 300 horsepower and a top speed of 200mph and a cruising speed of 100*
 
 
 
 
*top speed only achievable on a cloudy, 24C day. Cruising speed is only for a max of 30 mins, except when in 6th gear max cruising time is 15mins. 5th gear allows unlimited cruising time but suspension is disabled and top speed is disabled.

I'm not sure about Pocket 6K, but it's true that Komodo is noisier than Gemini and Helium and doesn't have the same DR:
Then again, for $6K, you are getting a "discount Dragon," so no complaints!

The camera seems to completely ignore ambient temp
It carries on ticking the clock down... 15 mins, 10 mins, 5 mins...
This is after just 1m 3sec of 8K recording, the rest of the time the camera was sat idle in live-view (8K enabled in the menus).
The video mode you enable in the menu seems to set the timer.
And after that not even liquid nitrogen seems to make the counter go up.
All seems very fishy to me.
I was down to 5 mins after applying the ice.
To the touch the camera felt like an iceberg from top to bottom. I even had it on a bag of frozen chips at one point, but realised the chips were melting and I wanted to eat them for dinner the next day.
 

Imagine if Canon created a breakthrough sensor with low RS, good DR, 8k and doesn’t overheat- but exactly like the 5dIII after the II thought, ‘we can’t give them something this good, let’s cripple it’. But then they cripple it too much on the secret insider cripple-o-meter and get caught because if they uncripple it everyone will know.

"It seems as soon as there is a card inserted, an overheating countdown timer starts, but doesn’t apply when an HDMI device is attached and the card removed"
These get very fishy. I had commented in another post about suspicion and my crazy paraonic theory that the overheating limit is only a limit made by firmware, nobody believed me... Now I believe it more firmly, but we still have to wait for the truth to come out.
For me, Canon's credibility is at stake in all of this.
 

Do you have anything constructive to offer or just more of this? Getting a bit bored of it now.

This thread details the teardown process, modifications made and some important findings:
http://c.tieba.baidu.com/p/6848700307?pn=1


He replaced the two thermal pads that did not fully cover the CPU with a dollop of thermal paste and noticed significantly better and more even heat dissipation.
Most important finding: despite the temperature drop and improved heat dissipation, 8K/4K HQ still cut off at 20min mark, suggesting a firmware limit is also in place.