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Nanlite FS300 watt LED (bowens mount) 349$


Cameramoto

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When the Forza 300 came to market one or two years ago I was quite impressed by the reviews for color accuracy. For a daylight fixture to be at that time in the range of 999$, it seemed like a good price, but it was still a little much for my budget. Still, I wondered, because the LED market evolves so fast, where we would end up in a couple of years on the LED offerings. With the FS series from Nanlite, now you get a stronger beam and without a huge ballast to mess you up in your setup. I guess Nanlite is really onto something that will be quite attractive for small crews. You essentially get a 300watt LED daylight for 1/3 of the price of usual Aputure, etc brands. God, I can't wait for the other front runners to bid and offer models in the same range. LEDs are going to get CHEAP!

nanliteus.com/collections/fs-series

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Thanks for the hot tip. I just picked up a Godox VL200 for about that price at Adorama. It's nice, but still not as powerful as I had hoped once I put it in to a 55" soft box with double diffusion. 

Wonder if the Fora 300 would be significantly better. is the output difference linear to the wattage difference? (i.e., 50% brighter?)

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In theory from 200 watts to 300 watts is 1/2 stop. Again pure theory a 600Pro should give 1 more stop than a 300 II

The reflector and the cob position and size play a key role on the advertised lux at 1m.... this is why the 200d is brighter than a 300 II and the godox vl200 even more. Put a sofbox and then everything changes.

the fs300 is main only the 200d can be powered by battery through an optional "balast" type of accessory but requires a small power supply to run via mains. To me it seems a more flexible desing. 

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On Aputure website they claim the Amaran 200d brightness: "Up to 65,000 lux @ 1 meter with Hyper-Reflector."

Nanlite specs for the FS-200 are as follow on their website: Lux @ 1m w/55 Degree Reflector 5600K: 36730 lux"

Nanlite specs for the Forza 300 are as follow on their website: "Lux @ 1m w/55 Degree Reflector 5600K: 66300 lux"

The only references I collected from the independant review from Gaffer and Gear on Youtube is as follow for the 300 watts Apurture and Nanlite. These are real tests by a gaffer, so they are exact.

Apurture 300D II : 3080 lux at 3meters

Nanlite Forza 300: 5040 lux at 3 meters

Arri Pocket PAR HMI: 3480 lux at 3meters

So I don't think the Apurture Amarand 200d claims on the brightness are right. In fact I think they are rigged. If I where you I would wait for Gaffer and Gear to make a real test before you buy.

His channel:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOgN351K45vTrozaadFPXlA

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The Godox LV150 is measured by Gerald at 60'000 lux at 1m with the reflector (the 120d on the same test same reflector 27'000, 300d 44'000 and VL300 78'000) but again reflector and cob design and position makes huge difference but once is in a softbox things are more even kind of matching the watts.



So if you use the reflector a lot then the numbers kind of matches but if you use a lot on a softbox then they are almost meaningless. 

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I have no use for a reflector, but will use the light dome or fresnell or the aputure spotlight. 

Too bad these lights arent available, so there could be a comparison video.

Gaffer and gear is great, but I guess he wont upload before 2021. And I honestly dont get companies that release stuff in the beginning of the year when everybody needs to buy stuff for tax writeoff.

 

So has anybody any insights what the best lights are price/quality. As going by specs, it might not be the best idea.

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22 minutes ago, zerocool22 said:

I have no use for a reflector, but will use the light dome or fresnell or the aputure spotlight. 

Too bad these lights arent available, so there could be a comparison video.

Gaffer and gear is great, but I guess he wont upload before 2021. And I honestly dont get companies that release stuff in the beginning of the year when everybody needs to buy stuff for tax writeoff.

 

So has anybody any insights what the best lights are price/quality. As going by specs, it might not be the best idea.

I like Godox and GVM, nearly all of my video lights are GVM. Some of my favorites are GVM's RGB lights, its great not having to use gels. All of my flashes and studio strobes are Godox.

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39 minutes ago, herein2020 said:

I like Godox and GVM, nearly all of my video lights are GVM. Some of my favorites are GVM's RGB lights, its great not having to use gels. All of my flashes and studio strobes are Godox.

Gvm doesnt seem to have bowens s lights. I want something powerfull where I can place a lot of multipliers on. Spotlight, fresnel, softbox, striplight. 

And godox is missing the effects on their lights that nanlite and aputure are offering.

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10 hours ago, Cameramoto said:

You essentially get a 300watt LED daylight for 1/3 of the price of usual Aputure, etc brands.

That's not true, the Aputure Amaran 200D is cheaper than the FS300 (and only thirty bucks more than the FS200). 

Also the Aputure you can control remotely with a nifty app, while it seems NanLite lacks that, and to even get basic remote control capabilities you've got to spend extra to buy a remote control accessory. (which isn't as fully featured as the Aputure app)""

I'd also like to hear the fan noise from each, the Aputure will only kick on when needed and is off otherwise. 

Also, the Aputure is a true COB design, while the NanLight is rather an array of small LEDs.
 

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10 hours ago, Cameramoto said:

I wonder if It would be a nice alternative to V-mount battery setups on the lights to simply use a portable battery like this one: Portable Generator 666Wh/185200mAh it's cheap compared to the 28 volts batteries required for let's say a Forza 300 or Apurture 300D II. It's the price of one battery.

The part they don't tell you about setups like those is that the batteries are nearly impossible to properly maintain. If you leave them on the charger between gigs they go bad and won't hold a charge, if you leave them off the charger between gigs they go bad and won't hold a charge, if you discharge them fully during a gig....the go bad and won't hold a charge...etc. etc. Also, keep in mind that a product like that loses a lot of efficiency starting out as DC, then going through a DC inverter to convert to AC to power the lights which then have to step all of that voltage back down to something useable.  

You really are better off getting the V mount batteries or a gas generator. My gas generator is great when I can use it and it almost cost the same as the product that you referenced...only caveats of course is it can't be used where there are noise restrictions or indoors.

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Kind of true about the battery, but for small timers, they might be a good alternative if you get a good one. I've had a small 400wh one and I've used it occasionally for several years for my flex panels (150w). Really great for the occasional shoot where you need portable power.

You should just make a battery maintenance schedule if you go down that route (I really should) and it should last for years.

Generators are for bigger projects than I do, can you imagine hauling one around as a OMB? I've been eyeing those 1kwh batteries but I rarely go off grid.

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3 hours ago, scotchtape said:

Kind of true about the battery, but for small timers, they might be a good alternative if you get a good one. I've had a small 400wh one and I've used it occasionally for several years for my flex panels (150w). Really great for the occasional shoot where you need portable power.

You should just make a battery maintenance schedule if you go down that route (I really should) and it should last for years.

Generators are for bigger projects than I do, can you imagine hauling one around as a OMB? I've been eyeing those 1kwh batteries but I rarely go off grid.

Yes I can imagine......because I do it now lol. Its a real PITA but when you are shooting music videos especially at night you can't rely on having power. I do have a GoalZero Yeti 400 which is pretty cool, but I never know if it is properly charged or not or the battery meter is just lying to me. I only use it to recharge drone batteries and other small stuff when onsite without power. I think my biggest problem with those setups is converting from DC to AC back to DC. For setups that need batteries I just use VMount batteries, or the Sony NP batteries which is more efficient than going through the conversion process. I have some GVM panels which can use Sony NP batteries but I've never powered them that way. 

My favorite little nighttime mobile setup is to just crank the ISO to 4000 and use three Falcon Eyes F7's for lighting. At ISO 4000 you can light just about anything with those little panels....as long as you don't mind shooting at ISO4000 and you can power them internally, externally, VMount to USB-C, etc. for unlimited lighting. Obviously you will need something much bigger for groups of people, or larger spaces, but for simple music videos or working with a single person or shooting a simple event they can be all you need. They are also great if you pair them with a product turntable if product reviews are your thing.

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On 12/18/2020 at 8:56 PM, Cameramoto said:

On Aputure website they claim the Amaran 200d brightness: "Up to 65,000 lux @ 1 meter with Hyper-Reflector."

Nanlite specs for the FS-200 are as follow on their website: Lux @ 1m w/55 Degree Reflector 5600K: 36730 lux"

Nanlite specs for the Forza 300 are as follow on their website: "Lux @ 1m w/55 Degree Reflector 5600K: 66300 lux"

The only references I collected from the independant review from Gaffer and Gear on Youtube is as follow for the 300 watts Apurture and Nanlite. These are real tests by a gaffer, so they are exact.

Apurture 300D II : 3080 lux at 3meters

Nanlite Forza 300: 5040 lux at 3 meters

Arri Pocket PAR HMI: 3480 lux at 3meters

So I don't think the Apurture Amarand 200d claims on the brightness are right. In fact I think they are rigged. If I where you I would wait for Gaffer and Gear to make a real test before you buy.

His channel:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOgN351K45vTrozaadFPXlA

These reading are very clever for the Chinese manufacturers that, I think from the launch of the forza, used special reflectors that are tailor made for the size of the COB to concentrate the light really at the center, which makes the reading very high. The problem is that he himself sees is that unless you want just lighting a face, the hotspot is not good at all as you don't really get an even spread. He also got the surprise that for example testing the Forza 500, when you use it with the reflector he was reaching 1.2k hmi lumens, but once reflected or put in a softbox, the light was significantly lower than the hmi. If people go to Nanlight website, you will see thay say they use a bigger cob to get a more even beam. In fact it is much more honnest in my view, as 99% of time these light will be used with some kind of diffusion. It is too easy to say my light is as powerful as y, but then it is only in a 5-10 degree spot.

These reflectors have really messed the method of measuring light output. My guess people should either test everything bare bulb or put these light in a standard sofbox and measure the light output.

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18 hours ago, IronFilm said:

That's not true, the Aputure Amaran 200D is cheaper than the FS300 (and only thirty bucks more than the FS200). 

Also the Aputure you can control remotely with a nifty app, while it seems NanLite lacks that, and to even get basic remote control capabilities you've got to spend extra to buy a remote control accessory. (which isn't as fully featured as the Aputure app)""

I'd also like to hear the fan noise from each, the Aputure will only kick on when needed and is off otherwise. 

Also, the Aputure is a true COB design, while the NanLight is rather an array of small LEDs.
 

From what I recall the Amaran construction is mainly plastic. We will have to see these ones, what they are made from and if they are more durable. That could also be important for many like me, as the light have to support some modifiers etc. Having a 300 watt model also is something to consider. Time will tell when some will be able to do test. To think that these kind of unit use to cost between 700 to 1200 is quite extraordinary. You could get 3 like these for the cost of the aperture 300, its just crazy. The thing is, once you reach those level of wattage, battery doesn't make real sense. The cost of batteries would be higher than the unit itself.

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