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scotchtape

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Everything posted by scotchtape

  1. Went to Sony land. More or less satisfied. Any system has its pros and cons. A7SIII does many things sufficiently to make money with. Also went with FX6 for a bigger camera but I only use it on sticks. Otherwise I use a gimbal with the A7SIII. Depending on your style the IBIS may work - it's decent for static shots, but for walking shots it's not so great unless you're using a gimbal. On the other hand if you can live with the current process for the gyro stabilization, you can use that as well. I much prefer what I can get out of the Sony color wise. I use the usual slog3 except I typically use the Phantom luts, although I must say I don't like the current version and still use the older version. I will say that the NR is very heavy handed in low light. Since COVID times I haven't done any events so I haven't explored that area myself, but I know the A7III I used was streets ahead of the GH5 so I think I'll be fine. I really hated the color and DR from my GH5 even if the weight and IBIS were good. Most GH5 footage seems to be from either (no offense) wannabe filmmakers where the grade always looks like something is wrong with the contrast curve, or from videographers who don't have an eye for color. There's a few people who can make it sing and I definitely couldn't, but maybe you can. Otherwise the S5 low light looked very very good color wise, but there's the trash Panasonic AF and the lens selection... Manual focus during fast paced weddings - good luck for the average person.
  2. As an update, I did manage to record a full 128gb card with 60fps no overheating, weird. I tried the HDMI output for you, set to 4K 24fps 100mbps, dual card rec (IBIS and AF on, shading comp off) to Shogun 7. Weirdly the Atomos screen showed 4K 60fps input... and the HDMI record trigger does not work. Poked around on google and someone said do not use auto settings for HDMI. I changed it to 4K out and Shogun accepted 24p signal. HDMI record trigger still not working though, HDMI input cut out intermittedly with a 1080p cable, replaced it with 8K cable and it was fine. Anyhoo, recorded for 1.5hr total without issue (several short restarts with settings changes) then I cut the test short. 🤷‍♂️ Maybe point a fan at the camera? I thought I would get rid of one A7SIII when this came in but I don't think I will. This poor A7IV has only been subject to tests and not even used yet! I'm assuming you know you're supposed to flip the screen out etc?
  3. I think it's coming from the pan motor.
  4. I actually took apart the Zeapon slider motor because the resonance was horrendous, there is no acoustic insulation at all in there, just motor bolted to hollow plastic chamber. I added some rubber washers and sound insulation, didn't do much but at least the tripod stopped being a giant speaker for the motor. Also I couldn't figure out how to remove the gear from the stepper motor, there was no set screw I could see so no go on replacing that one. Ifootage basically said talk to the vendor from Ali express which is basically like saying go pound sand. I might try buying another one from BH to see if it's just this unit.
  5. Does anyone else have this slider? Is it just me or is the motor noise really annoying? It sounds whiny and is definitely not silent, and slowing it down doesn't seem to help either. If I use put 0 for the motor settings, it's quiet enough (not picked up by boom or lav) but then it's very shaky. If I use auto-tune with the camera on, it is stable but is loud enough to be picked up by mics. The zeapon with Pons at similar speeds is quieter, but if you try to run it faster than a 40s full slide it starts to get noisy in a hurry. 😞 It's 2022 and sliders are still too loud, what gives? The silent stepper motor drivers are crazy good compared to the olden days...
  6. Tried again with another Sony battery, and set it up on a tripod this time. Got full 128gb 1:15 4K 60fps XAVC-S 200mbs. Dual slots 20C with lens corrections off except for distortion. AF / IBIS on. Overheat warning just coming on as card had 1 minute left.
  7. I got 50mins of 4K60 before shut down 😞 dual slots, XAVCS 4:2:2 10 bit 200mbps. Ambient 20C I think warning came on around 40 min mark, not 100% sure. At least 24p works!
  8. In the meantime you can turn off the auto lens corrections. Also open the screen, battery door and SD card slot, as well as the the port covers. And set the viewfinder to standard quality / fps Heat wise it is definitely worse than the A7III but at least it wasn't marketed as a video camera. On my A7III I would get overheating if I left lens corrections on depending on the lens so I turned it off. On my A7SIII I leave shading correction off and distortion on. Shading correction seems to be buggy - I've had a few "glitches" in video mode where a frame or two will have correction turned off then on again. I've also noticed some batteries run hotter than others - even the Sony ones. I have 3 extra OEMs and one causes overheating more easily in my A7III. Wouldn't be surprised if there was a recall, but with the parts shortage not sure if that can even happen.
  9. Tested mine, 4hr no overheat in 4K 10bit 24p. Ambient about 18C. Camera gets really warm though, even just in the menus. Runs hotter than A7III 😞
  10. Just tested a brand new copy with an A7SIII and the AF-C needs some work. AF-C in video mode is a bit flaky with hunting, at least in my room. In some cases it couldn't find focus! Just like the G1, I'm pretty sure this one needs an update ASAP to be useable... Just posting in case anyone is thinking of selling their G1 before getting a G2.
  11. I'm upgrading my A7III to A7IV, bit disappointed with the lack of FF 60FPS but if you do video work the 10-bit and option for 4K slow mo at least makes it a backup to the A7SIII. I think 6K/8K is going to be here soon so I don't know if in 5 years any camera is going to be relevant!
  12. In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no. In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting. If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease. If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power. The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.
  13. After looking around for good monitors, atomos is basically the cheapest for a "pro" monitor with decent screen. The small hd stuff is at least 50% more without recording. The rest of the low end has crap screens. So I don't think it's the end of the world for them as they have the medium end of the market cornered. I just upgraded from ninja inferno to shogun 7, and both of those are way better than the feelworld lut 7 pro and desview r5 I also have. Those monitors look like garbage in comparison.
  14. The new freewell "magnetic VND" (not to be confused with their other similar sounding offerings) looks really innovative, I'll probably pick up one when they're more available. Seriously innovative and flexible, VND/CPL/Mist system. All of the VNDs will produce some color shift. Many of the newer ones have negligible effects on sharpness, all of them also have the polarization effect. The fixed NDs are more annoying to use but of course better. I currently have 2x SLR Magic Variable ND filters (and the 4 stop IEND), they are one of the better price/performance. A tiny hit to sharpness, slight warming of image, but you can adjust the polarization angle, plus I think affordable for the quality. They obviously have no marketing department compared to Polar Pro / Freewell but I think it's a great pick. Just based on quality I would say any of the Polar Pro / Freewell (new ones) / SLR Magic / Auorara VNDs are the "best" quality right now. I also just picked up the SLR Magic fixed ND screw on set solely for the 1 stop filter as the FX6 END starts at 2. If you are "serious" about it you'll end up with a bunch anyways. Don't bother with any of the no name cheapo ones, or even the branded cheapo ones. Too much color shift and sharpness loss. The Tiffens VND is just the worst and inconsistent for the price. Unforgiveable!
  15. I suggest getting the same fan I used, it's easier to slow a fan down than speed it up (in this context). It's not that much louder, especially for location work it's a non issue unless you're in a quiet house (and even then it's very acceptable). If you want to slow it down just get a bunch of fan slow down cables or one with a pot.
  16. Yep that is exactly how I did it. You only need the red/black - the yellow is for RPM signal and you don't need it. I'm not sure if the JST is the exact right one as there are different sizes but there's a good chance it is. Those cables are basically how I did it (except I have the JST connectors so I just crimped that onto the 3pin fan cable). If you get those cables you would just connect the black and red wires (obviously black to black and red to red) and you are good to go. These lights are great, just wish the color temperature was a bit higher. I am going to sell my 300D II 😄 I also just got an Aputure 200X for my main light because gelling is so annoying, but these will be here for max power! Got 4x to battle the sun!
  17. The more I see the more I like! 95% of my b-roll is on Gimbal, the only time I'm on sticks is for interview/talking heads. Maybe I'll wait for version 2... If I didn't just get an FX6 I might be convinced to try one of these out.
  18. Have to say it looks really cool! Not sure how many lenses you can actually fit onto this thing but the feature set looks amazing. Really good ideas they combined into one package. The LIDAR wave AF system is really innovative too, plus the wireless transmission. 0% chance I can actually own one but I'm still excited about the advancements, hopefully it will spur others to actually innovate!
  19. scotchtape

    Sony A7 IV

    The 60FPS is from the crop... so not FF.
  20. I'm using the phantom LUTs now and they're pretty good. Sometimes you can get a better result if you're willing to do a bit of work, using Resolve color space transform to Arri and using the arri LUT looks pretty good as well. I also do not like Sony skin tones SOOC, but I do like the results I get from Phantom LUTs or CST to Arri and a bit of tweaking. YMMV. Check out the Phantom LUTs, I gave it a shot and it works for me! More or less drag and drop if you have decent WB and exposure. If you like Canon more just go Canon. I do think if you're only using the SOOC footage and not doing a lot of grading, Canon is probably way easier to work with for skin tones, I just can't deal with the cripple hammer. It's a bit more work on the Sony but you can get them to look amazing as well and close to Arri.
  21. They sound convincing for the first few seconds then you can totally tell it's AI, it's like those stupid review videos on YT that are literally a voicebot reading promo text. This one sounded a bit better. I think if it improves more it will be a useful tool in adding voice overs, and I think it's a good thing if anything. Especially if you're making a video in a language that's not your first, or if you're not comfortable using your own voice, or even if you just don't want to put the time and effort into actually doing a VO. Another use case is in an interview clip if you need to have a voice over with the question that you didn't pick up, etc... could be really great.
  22. Return or try to remap it using the date trick.
  23. Clar 350 on sale for $399. Not sure about the fan noise on that one but looks like it could be a good alternative, I like the remote and the PSU looks ok. But there's 3 fans and a fan in the PSU so... good luck if you want to change anything. I'm sure next year there will be even better lights! But at these prices, fighting daylight has never been more accessible. I put 4x 300w through a full grid, getting around 11.5-12EV. Finally can light against windows!
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