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kye

Fast walk-around lens for MFT?

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4 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

You do a sort of masonic handshake on it to put it into clickless mode by pulling the aperture ring toward the camera and then rotating it 180 degrees and then turn it again until you hear a click.

The instructions will be in the manual.

Out of likes - but thanks!!

The masonic handshake thing made me laugh :)

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44 minutes ago, kye said:

I thought the aperture was de-clicked already?  Might have to do some reading.  If I'm going to be composing a shot and want to change the aperture to get the right depth-of-field then the last thing I need is the horizon to rotate wildly each time I go through a stop marker!  

 

29 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

You do a sort of masonic handshake on it to put it into clickless mode by pulling the aperture ring toward the camera and then rotating it 180 degrees and then turn it again until you hear a click.

The instructions will be in the manual.

Yeah there's some technique to make the aperture clickless. Just never bothered to read the manual lol

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12 hours ago, kye said:

After the wife saw how much effort I was putting into looking at various options she just told me to buy the Voigtlander and be done with it, so I now have a 17.5mm 0.95 on order!!

You see, these are the sort of stealthy purchase authorisation techniques that the world needs tutorials for on YouTube.

 

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6 hours ago, Phil A said:

I've sold my Voigtländer 17.5mm for a combination of SpeedBooster + Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (EF mount). Missed the auto focus too much.

How are you finding the Sigma?

6 hours ago, Emanuel said:

I'd bet on the upcoming Leica 10-25mm f/1.7, definitely a no-brainer if not too far from the $1K mark.

It depends really.  It's trading speed for flexibility.

TBH I came up with the F2 limit because I just didn't think I'd be able to get the shots I wanted with anything slower, but 1.7 isn't that far off and I was being generous including all those 1.7 lenses in my list.  

Basically what I'm looking for is to be able to get depth in a shot due to background defocus, but without having to make every shot a macro shot.  If you look carefully at the gallery that @BTM_Pix posted earlier for the 28mm F2 you will notice that the only shots with any background defocus at all are those with a subject very close to the lens.  I'm not looking for much defocus, just enough so that the eye gets the "that part is further away" signal and makes the mental image of the scene have some depth.  I can make bokeh with my phone if I put something 10cm away from the lens, but if I want to do it with a mid-shot of someone in a public place at 35mm I will need a lot more than F2.

Most of the time with a wide lens you want to get everything in focus, but if you're treating 35mm like a portrait lens (and cropping in to ~50mm FOV) then I want to be able to have a shot that is about a person in a generic environment without having all the signs and people in the background also featured (ie, have it blurred) as well as have a shot where they are in a specific environment by stopping down (ie, not blurred).

5 hours ago, BTM_Pix said:

You see, these are the sort of stealthy purchase authorisation techniques that the world needs tutorials for on YouTube.

lol!

I had a teacher for year 11 English class that took a rather unorthodox approach to education.  Before a test he would teach us how to pass it, but the rest of the time he would tell us stories from his life, philosophy, and various other things.  He would let people zone out, doodle, as long as we didn't talk.  There was one kid who obviously had a difficult home life who was always tired, so after a few discussions with the kid to ensure he was legit, the teacher arranged for him to be able to sleep in the next room for the class.

Anyway, he was a fan of hifi equipment and was always buying some bargain in a second-hand shop and then having to smuggle things home so his wife wouldn't find out.  I'm not sure how much of what he said was true, how much was exaggerated and how much was just story-telling, but we heard about turntables under the jumper and his walking into the house stooped over and the old "I'm ok, I just twinged by back, I'll be fine, I'll just go lie down for a bit" as he rushed through the house.  We also heard about a technique that I have actually used in the past about how to get a large subwoofer into the house.  The idea is that you buy it, and store it at a mates house.  Find somewhere in the house you want the subwoofer to be installed and work out how it would be useful as a table.  Find (or make) a table the same dimensions but make it ugly, and then install it where you want the subwoofer to go.  Wait for the wife to find it and freak out.  Explain how proud you are and how useful it is, fight for it to stay there, and as a compromise put a tablecloth / sheet over it to hide it all the way down to the floor, and make sure you put stuff on it, like a plant or whatever, so it's useful.  Wait a few weeks.  When the wife is out, swap the table for the subwoofer, but don't connect it.  Wait a few weeks.  When the wife is out, hook it up and adjust it so it's good, but don't have it that loud.  Use it when the wife is out.  After a few more weeks, use it while the wife is out but let her hear it when she returns.  When she notices it (if) then explain that you've had it for ages, it's been there for months, you thought you told her but she must have forgotten, it's really useful, she didn't seem to care that much before and why is it a problem now, etc etc...  :)

If only I had dozens more stories like that, I could start my own YT channel!

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I don't see how you are going to beat the Voigtlander Nokton 10.5mm f/0.95 for DoF on a m4/3 camera.

There is this one if you use a Speedbooster. But it is not very wide on m4/3. And I see you don't like Heavy, sooo.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1162797-REG/sigma_24_35mm_f_2_dg_hsm.html

 

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29 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

I don't see how you are going to beat the Voigtlander Nokton 10.5mm f/0.95 for DoF on a m4/3 camera.

There is this one if you use a Speedbooster. But it is not very wide on m4/3. And I see you don't like Heavy, sooo.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1162797-REG/sigma_24_35mm_f_2_dg_hsm.html

Yeah, that was kind of my logic, a faster lens can always be stopped down (and considering how fast and how soft the 17.5mm is at 0.95 it probably will be stopped down most of the time) but slower lenses can't be stopped-up :)

I'm sacrificing the flexibility of a zoom, so I want to get something in return.  Andrews comment about the Voigt and Super Takumar lenses on the BMPCC4K vs C200 video having a less clinical look is also very encouraging as I like the rendering of detail on the Helios 44M-4 quite a lot!

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25 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

The Bokeh is just too crazy for me most of the time on a Helios 44M-4. If you need it is the cats ass, but when you Don't need it it looks like the Cats butt-hole. 😬

Yeah, I can understand that.  At the moment I'm using it without a SB so I'm only getting the middle quarter of the image, which doesn't have the crazy parts of the bokeh.

But, if you don't go wide open and just use it to soften the background a bit for some depth then it looks quite nice.

I think people see a fast lens and think they have to use it wide open or somehow it won't have been worth it or something.  A fast lens should be used to make the right images for the project, not to show off the lens.  Watching too many equipment tests on YT makes you forget that equipment can be used with subtlety and care, rather than being bludgeoned to death with stress-tests of every feature regardless of the aesthetic implications.

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Well with m4/3 you do have to think really wide and fast to sort of even out the plying field. But fortunately since you can adopt anything and m4/3 stuff on average is cheap used because there is so much of it around after 10 years, not counting 4/3 stuff it can be accomplished somewhat easily.

Yep everyone has a different style, different needs. So m4/3 seems to cover more peoples needs than any format I think. I sort of miss it, but FF can be addictive. If I was doing Birding again, or into Sports I would be Back in a heartbeat, probably buy the Olympus EM1 mk II and the Panny 100-400mm..

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20 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Well with m4/3 you do have to think really wide and fast to sort of even out the plying field. But fortunately since you can adopt anything and m4/3 stuff on average is cheap used because there is so much of it around after 10 years, not counting 4/3 stuff it can be accomplished somewhat easily.

Yep everyone has a different style, different needs. So m4/3 seems to cover more peoples needs than any format I think. I sort of miss it, but FF can be addictive. If I was doing Birding again, or into Sports I would be Back in a heartbeat, probably buy the Olympus EM1 mk II and the Panny 100-400mm..

Yeah, wide and fast is the challenge.  Thus why I went really wide but not fast (8mm F4) and then Medium but fast (17.5mm F0.95).

In terms of long, I just posted a bunch of images to the Lenses thread from the Helios 58mm F2, used without SB as a 116mm tele.  Great stuff IMHO.

https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/6396-lenses/?do=findComment&comment=260336

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On 10/22/2018 at 3:13 AM, kye said:

How are you finding the Sigma?

Great. I think the rendering, etc. is good and I like both the quality and quantity of bokeh when shooting wide open, where the lens is already sharp enough for my taste. Auto focus for photography is working well and together with Eye-AF leads to being able to let someone else take a picture (there's not a single good picture of myself taken with the Voigtländer because manual focus basically overburdens most people who aren't used to it).

On the downside, you might have to adjust the focal reducer to get sharp pictures at infinity (and then still not get them if you get a slightly out of spec one) and it's not ideal for manual focus because often the combination of lens to adapter to camera has some rotational play when turning the focus ring (you can limit this by mounting the focal reducer to your cage and/or using a lens support on rails). Continuous auto focus on the GH5 is basically unusable with the combination but I found it also too unreliable with native Panasonic lenses.

I'm taking quite a bit more pictures than video so that was a good decision for myself in my opinion.

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