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rayayos

Music Video shot on KOWA B&H + MKiii

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Hi Guys! Hey Andrew! 

 

Nice to finally be on EOSHD. 

 

I'm from Sydney, Australia and this is my first post! So we'll see how this goes. 

 

This is my first music video shot on a anamorphic lens (KOWA B&H).

 

Any constructive feedback, criticism, tips, advice etc or just a chat is welcome and appreciated! 

 

Would be cool to our share knowledge and experiences from all over the world.

 

Hope you like the video (and hopefully the music aswell loll).

 

Lana Lyric - S.W.A.G. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzVw6ZcgwbM

 

Talk soon guys.

 

Ray Ayos. 

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

You did a great job getting that lens to focus during a job. I find it to be quite challenging but you did a great job.. looks excellent.

 

Thanks Rob. Yeh had help with the tokinas!  I always started infinity on the primes then focus a little on the kowa...then focus the prime and then the kowa etc...But it was still a little tricky focusing both.

 

Which lens have you used before?

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I have the Kowa 16H / 8Z, I was thinking of trading up to the Bell and howell but im not sure if its necessary. I also have an early iscorama so I have 2X and 1.5 kinda covered to play with anyways. Love 2X though has the best look but I'd love to rack...cant really rack with the iscorama either with such tight focus ring.

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I have the Kowa 16H / 8Z, I was thinking of trading up to the Bell and howell but im not sure if its necessary. I also have an early iscorama so I have 2X and 1.5 kinda covered to play with anyways. Love 2X though has the best look but I'd love to rack...cant really rack with the iscorama either with such tight focus ring.

I don't think there is really a big difference for a swap.. both are good lens.

 

really? Arnt isco's known for rack focusing? thats why they are so popular?  What take lens do you think are great (ive got the takumars, helios and thinking of getting the nikkors)?

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the iscorama's are known for it and you can rack its just has a really long turn on the focus ring and they came from the factory as tight as mine so its hard to do during a take. Like you cant crank the focus fast from one spot to another.

 

I have found that the helios is the best, I have a nikkon 501.4D but its multicoated. Im also looking at an early nikon 50 1.4 nikkor-s. If you can find one without the C like Nikkor-sc then its not multicoated. Im also looking at getting a set together. I have the russian MIR24N 35mm F2 which is a cheap sweet 35.

 

Right now the guys at Dog Schidt optiks are making my 2 helios conversion lenses I'll be sure to post some stuff when I get them. 

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the iscorama's are known for it and you can rack its just has a really long turn on the focus ring and they came from the factory as tight as mine so its hard to do during a take. Like you cant crank the focus fast from one spot to another.

 

I have found that the helios is the best, I have a nikkon 501.4D but its multicoated. Im also looking at an early nikon 50 1.4 nikkor-s. If you can find one without the C like Nikkor-sc then its not multicoated. Im also looking at getting a set together. I have the russian MIR24N 35mm F2 which is a cheap sweet 35.

 

Right now the guys at Dog Schidt optiks are making my 2 helios conversion lenses I'll be sure to post some stuff when I get them. 

Ok, Ill def keep that in mind..I'll be getting an isco soon aswell. Good to know.

 

As I'm using the mkiii 50 is the widest I can go... unfortunately. But we'll see may get the cropped sensors aswell or just be bother cropping it in post.

 

Nice set up... which camera ?

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Hi have any of you Kowa owners had the problems of a yellow vignette on strong flares?

I see it on some people's footage, but not this music vid.

It happens with my Kowa 16H on every focal length, even 80-200mm.

On my BMC it does not vignette at 24mm on a Nikon Ai-S without flare. Only with flares.

It's a yellow flare, as if the light reflects inside the barrell, same shape.

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Hi have any of you Kowa owners had the problems of a yellow vignette on strong flares?

I see it on some people's footage, but not this music vid.

It happens with my Kowa 16H on every focal length, even 80-200mm.

On my BMC it does not vignette at 24mm on a Nikon Ai-S without flare. Only with flares.

It's a yellow flare, as if the light reflects inside the barrell, same shape.

What kind of light do you use?  Maybe try a strong led light. I used led.

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It does not matter, I tried with LED flash lights aimed at the 16H, but even if i point the lens at regular fluorescent bulbs, the vignette appears.

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Ok, Ill def keep that in mind..I'll be getting an isco soon aswell. Good to know.

 

As I'm using the mkiii 50 is the widest I can go... unfortunately. But we'll see may get the cropped sensors aswell or just be bother cropping it in post.

 

Nice set up... which camera ?

I use the Nikon D800 which has S35 crop mode on it and it comes in handy sometimes especially with the 2X. I used the D4 and found it slightly better but they are both still 8bit h264 crap dslrs. After using the BMCC its hard to go back so Im really waiting to use these on the mft model and pocket cameras with a speedbooster. Exciting times!

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I have the same thing with my Sun Anamorphic I think. The inner lens barrel reflects light. You may be able to reduce it with a hood or a mattebox.

Thanks Gabor. I'm deciding whether or not to return this lens. I see that it happens on other anamorphic lenses also. But haven't seen it this extreme before. So how would the mattebox help if the light is pointing straight at the lens? For filming purposes, I would of course want to induce flares without the vignette.

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It will not help when pointing straigh at the lens, but you can produce flares whitout pointing the light straight in the lens, I mean from an angle. Doesn't position and the direction of the lightsource make a difference in your case? The point is to not light the deep interior of the lens, just the front glass. At least in my case it helps.

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Ok. So this problem varies from anamorphic to anamorphic? Or is it just accepted by all as one of the work arounds? Haven't read anyone else report these things before...

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I think it depens on the anamorphic yes. I'm just posting my experiences, this is not a big issue for me, if it bothers me I shade the lens. I think you could make a separate topic for this. Other much more experienced shooters might have nice tips. Make sure to post some sample images if you can.

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What you are seeing are the reflections from the inside walls of the focussing tube.

 

A simple solution is to put some distance between the taking lens and the scope, thats why Helios lenses are favoured because the lens is deeply recessed.

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Thank you John!

 

just started a new thread on the topic as suggested by Gabor asking for feedback. I though the less distance in the coupling the better in terms of focussing? What would be a good practical way to increase the distance, maybe on an as needs basis? I have the redstan clamp that he recommends for the Kowa 16H. Maybe an extra step ring would help? Right now I use a 52mm to 62mm step up ring.

 

Martin

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