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Tips and tricks for new Panasonic GH5 owners


Andrew Reid
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4 hours ago, Ken Ross said:

Stab, yes, you're largely correct. When you see the hand (sounds scary ;)), that is the IBIS, sensor-based system. If you couple that with a Panasonic OIS lens that is equipped to work with IBIS, then you get the IBIS2 and "DUAL 2" shows up in your VF/LCD. DUAL 2 is simply IBIS2...not sure why they don't call it that.

From what I understand Dual IS 2 is the next iteration of IBIS+OIS software, currently only compatible with these few new lenses. OIS lenses with pre-GH5 firmwares only support Dual IS 1 mode (like one in GX85).

Haven't had time to test any of this properly but all of my OIS equipped lenses only work in Dual IS 1 mode.

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5 hours ago, Ken Ross said:

Stab, yes, you're largely correct. When you see the hand (sounds scary ;)), that is the IBIS, sensor-based system. If you couple that with a Panasonic OIS lens that is equipped to work with IBIS, then you get the IBIS2 and "DUAL 2" shows up in your VF/LCD. DUAL 2 is simply IBIS2...not sure why they don't call it that.

Now adding e-stabilization is an additional electronic (not sensor-based stabilization) that lays over the IBIS. That's where the sensor cropping occurs. You'll have to see if the cropping vs the additional stabilization is worth it. At least as it's implemented in the G85, I don't see much of a difference with E-stabilization. The good thing is there's no IQ deterioration with it engaged. 

@Ken Ross...is it possible to assign the manual lens focul length setting in the camera with IBIS to a function button...can you share how you access that adjustment in the camera?

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59 minutes ago, zetty said:

From what I understand Dual IS 2 is the next iteration of IBIS+OIS software, currently only compatible with these few new lenses. OIS lenses with pre-GH5 firmwares only support Dual IS 1 mode (like one in GX85).

Haven't had time to test any of this properly but all of my OIS equipped lenses only work in Dual IS 1 mode.

Yes, Dual IS2 is the combination of IBIS+OIS in the lens. Some older lenses with firmware upgrades will support IS2. An example is the Panasonic 14-140.

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The GH5 internal codec is most definitely limited. In that 10 bit footage, I see distinct color patches in skin tone when very zoomed in. In motion, full-scale, it is not too big of a deal to me. Its 'good enough' for an internal codec. What is more concerning is distinct banding in the sky at the beginning of the footage. I have watched a lot of GH5 footage, including more 10 bit v-log footage from Pampuri where the sky *wasn't banding, so I have a theory.. Perhaps more later. I will likely purchase the camera after NAB

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On 30. 3. 2017 at 11:03 PM, Stab said:

Great. Thanks for the explanation Ken. That clears it up.

I will do some tests next week to how the IBIS influences my shots.

I am using a Sigma 18-35 on a Speed Booster XL so it becomes a 11.5-22.4mm. Do you guys think i need to manually change the focal length input everytime I zoom in or out? Or do you think that a middle ground setting, let's say 17mm would provide decent results?

 

I use a 15 mm setting

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4 hours ago, tonysss said:

 

I use a 15 mm setting

Hi tonysss,

Thanks. And, are you happy with results? Does it stabilize well? Are there weird artifacts? Could be great if u could just leave it at 15mm and don't need to think about it anymore!

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28 minutes ago, Stab said:

Hi tonysss,

Thanks. And, are you happy with results? Does it stabilize well? Are there weird artifacts? Could be great if u could just leave it at 15mm and don't need to think about it anymore!

I'm curious about this as well. I had it set to 35mm with the Sigma 18-35 and the stabilization on the 18mm end was shitty. I guess you do need to manually change it?

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7 minutes ago, AaronChicago said:

I'm curious about this as well. I had it set to 35mm with the Sigma 18-35 and the stabilization on the 18mm end was shitty. I guess you do need to manually change it?

35mm is pretty far off if you ask me, IF you have a Speed Booster in between.

I would also guess that setting it to the wide end of the lens yields better results then at the tele end. In this case 18 mm or 12 mm with a Speed Booster. But yea, I need to do some extensive testing later.

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55 minutes ago, Stab said:

Hi tonysss,

Thanks. And, are you happy with results? Does it stabilize well? Are there weird artifacts? Could be great if u could just leave it at 15mm and don't need to think about it anymore!

I have Metabone speedbooster Nikon,  and 15 mm works great for me

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Thank you for this article, really helpful. I read your article a while back re using metabones BMCC adapter on GH4, worked brilliantly. I'm having trouble with using it on GH5 - it occasionally asks for camera to be 'turned off and on' again. I've invested in the BMCC adapter so really hoping I can use it! Can you help? Is there a work around?? Thanks kindly

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 01/04/2017 at 7:16 PM, AaronChicago said:

I'm curious about this as well. I had it set to 35mm with the Sigma 18-35 and the stabilization on the 18mm end was shitty. I guess you do need to manually change it?

So it's not getting this information electronically from the lens even with an active adapter? I thought it would have considering it provides full EXIF data..

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33 minutes ago, AaronChicago said:

I had a dumb adapter for the Nikon version of the Sigma lens, so it wasn't receiving any data.

Same here....until I have the camera....when you're say shooting on a 28-70...I don't zoom, but I do use different fields of view on the zoom, so when I'm at 50mm on the manual zoom, do I adjust to wherever I am in FOV on the lens or do you average zooms out?

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3 hours ago, Fritz Pierre said:

Same here....until I have the camera....when you're say shooting on a 28-70...I don't zoom, but I do use different fields of view on the zoom, so when I'm at 50mm on the manual zoom, do I adjust to wherever I am in FOV on the lens or do you average zooms out?

If it's not a speedbooster then I'd say just use the actual focal length. When I use a Nikon speedbooster I multiply my desired focal length by .7 and manually enter that number. That could be wrong so someone else may chime in.

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On 3/30/2017 at 5:03 PM, Stab said:

Great. Thanks for the explanation Ken. That clears it up.

I will do some tests next week to how the IBIS influences my shots.

I am using a Sigma 18-35 on a Speed Booster XL so it becomes a 11.5-22.4mm. Do you guys think i need to manually change the focal length input everytime I zoom in or out? Or do you think that a middle ground setting, let's say 17mm would provide decent results?

I have a GH4, and the 0.67 XL Speedbooster, and the Sigma 18-35, and many other Canon mount lenses, love it.

However, I thought the math was, 18x2=36  36x0.67=24.12

?

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54 minutes ago, buggz said:

I have a GH4, and the 0.67 XL Speedbooster, and the Sigma 18-35, and many other Canon mount lenses, love it.

However, I thought the math was, 18x2=36  36x0.67=24.12

?

It is actually 0.64x, not 0.67x :-)

"The new Speed Booster XL 0.64x reduces the full-frame crop factor of the Panasonic GH4 from 2.0x to 1.28x, thus effectively transforming these cameras into APS-H format."

"For example, a 50mm f/1.2 becomes a 32mm f/0.80"

http://www.metabones.com/products/details/mb_spef-m43-bt3

http://www.metabones.com/assets/a/stories/Metabones_Speed_Booster_XL_0.64x_Press_Release_5Jun2015.pdf

Stab math is correct.

 

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