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Andrew Reid

Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!

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20 hours ago, jonpais said:

The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is a sharp, featherweight, inexpensive, no-frills AF MFT lens. I realize many prefer to use wide angle lenses with a gimbal, but a longer, faster lens allows you to throw the background out of focus more easily.

Thank you, jonpais. The 30 mm looks very sharp indeed (some tolerable moire, the guy with the red relax-cap). It appears to have the same nice focus ring as the 18-35. And it has a very good FoV. Used the 18-35 mm speedboosted on my Pocket almost exclusively @35mm, which equalled a 50mm FF. Imo the advantage of a gimbal over a steadicam is that you don't need to go very wide, making your shots look like GoPro. Now I could adapt the 18-35 mm with a normal adapter also (this is not so much about the weight, I have the Ronin M), particularly if you say that CAF won't work for this kind of shot, but I see that the 30mm was indeed a very good option.

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On 09/01/2017 at 7:27 AM, Brian Caldwell said:

The 0.64x Speed Booster XL and 0.71x Ultra are both designed to cover fullframe 4:3 format (21.6mm diagonal).  As long as you use a master lens with a sufficiently large image circle you wont have vignetting.  24x36mm format lenses will always work.  I expect some issues with certain APS-C lenses.

Well, you would be slightly hampered by 4:3 if shooting with 2x anamorphics.  But with 1.79x anamorphics on the other hand . . . . .:glasses:

I really hope Panasonic can do a de-squeeze in camera... and remember to crop the edges from 2.66:1 to 2.39:1 with the 2x glass ;)

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46 minutes ago, Vesku said:

No exposure info in automatic video modes. I hope they fix it for final FW.
 

 

EXPO-INFO.jpg

You should really never shoot with auto-aperture, it's bad technique even for auto.

If you're going to use auto then it's less of a trade off to have the shutter speed and ISO control exposure, rather than the aperture.

Who wants to have the camera ride the aperture all the way down to F16 in some instances?

Even the staccato look of 1/4000 is less noticeable than using yukky slow apertures on a scene which really demands some composition in-depth.

Only scenes that need a deep DOF should be shot at F8 or slower.

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1 hour ago, Andrew Reid said:

I really hope Panasonic can do a de-squeeze in camera... and remember to crop the edges from 2.66:1 to 2.39:1 with the 2x glass ;)

They say it's still under consideration. I really don't understand, they give us a camera with a dedicated anamorphic mode, comparing it to ARRI, yet one of the basic function is still under consideration, dafuq?!

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20 minutes ago, funkyou86 said:

They say it's still under consideration. I really don't understand, they give us a camera with a dedicated anamorphic mode, comparing it to ARRI, yet one of the basic function is still under consideration, dafuq?!

It's called PATIENCE.

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58 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:

You should really never shoot with auto-aperture, it's bad technique even for auto.

If you're going to use auto then it's less of a trade off to have the shutter speed and ISO control exposure, rather than the aperture.

Who wants to have the camera ride the aperture all the way down to F16 in some instances?

Even the staccato look of 1/4000 is less noticeable than using yukky slow apertures on a scene which really demands some composition in-depth.

Only scenes that need a deep DOF should be shot at F8 or slower.

Some times I need auto exposure or auto iso. I also like deep DOF. The shutter priority with Panasonic lenses has been very bad because the aperture changes in visible steps. New Pana lenses have almost stepless aperture so the S-mode will be smooth. The GH5 new auto iso in manual is odd too because the camera is not showing auto iso. It is also hard to set auto iso range if I dont know what iso the camera wants to use with selected aperture and shutter speed.

Anyway it would be good to see what exposure values or iso the camera wants to use. It makes more harm when the user dont know exposure status, in auto or manual

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52 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:

You should really never shoot with auto-aperture, it's bad technique even for auto.

If you're going to use auto then it's less of a trade off to have the shutter speed and ISO control exposure, rather than the aperture.

Who wants to have the camera ride the aperture all the way down to F16 in some instances?

Even the staccato look of 1/4000 is less noticeable than using yukky slow apertures on a scene which really demands some composition in-depth.

Only scenes that need a deep DOF should be shot at F8 or slower.

Hi Andrew, I went out shooting with the X-T2 this morning and didn't feel like pulling out my ND filter, so I just went ahead and shot some clips at f/10-f/11. Mind you, I never use AE, all exposures were set manually. Had I been thinking, I would have used a higher shutter speed, but it was early, I'd only had two coffees. :)  Can you spot the five clips that were taken at between f/10-f/11?

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@Jn-   I have installed the firmware update 1.3 on my older 12-35 yesterday and this is what the Panasonic download Website http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/index2.html wrote about this Firmware update:

Update Contents for H-HS12035

Improvements 

Date/VersionDescription

2015/08/05
Ver. 1.3Dual I.S.( Image Stabilizer ) is available by this firmware update.
(in case of the usage of Camera with this function)

* Dual I.S.:Innovative Handshake Correction System by the ideal combination of lens I.S and Body I.S.

 

I hope that helps.

I dod not find it for the first 14-140 or the 100-300

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6 hours ago, Axel said:

Thank you, jonpais. The 30 mm looks very sharp indeed (some tolerable moire, the guy with the red relax-cap). It appears to have the same nice focus ring as the 18-35. And it has a very good FoV. Used the 18-35 mm speedboosted on my Pocket almost exclusively @35mm, which equalled a 50mm FF. Imo the advantage of a gimbal over a steadicam is that you don't need to go very wide, making your shots look like GoPro. Now I could adapt the 18-35 mm with a normal adapter also (this is not so much about the weight, I have the Ronin M), particularly if you say that CAF won't work for this kind of shot, but I see that the 30mm was indeed a very good option.

The focus ring on my 18-35mm has considerably more dampening than the 30mm. I don't even know if I could recommend the 30mm for MF. When using a gimbal and shooting AFC with the GH4, when the subject had strong highlights from the sun in her hair, the AF was able to keep up because of the contrast. If there was a lot of strong light in the background, like windows, or if the subject was low contrast, the AFC couldn't maintain focus. If I ever use AFC with a Panasonic again, I'll be sure to have the subject wear sunglasses, a black and white blouse or shiny earrings. The camera locks onto those no problem.

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24 minutes ago, AKED-M said:

@Jn-   I have installed the firmware update 1.3 on my older 12-35 yesterday and this is what the Panasonic download Website http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/index2.html wrote about this Firmware update:

Update Contents for H-HS12035

Improvements 

Date/VersionDescription

2015/08/05
Ver. 1.3Dual I.S.( Image Stabilizer ) is available by this firmware update.
(in case of the usage of Camera with this function)

* Dual I.S.:Innovative Handshake Correction System by the ideal combination of lens I.S and Body I.S.

 

I hope that helps.

I dod not find it for the first 14-140 or the 100-300

The general consensus, from the few reviews I've read, seems to be, that with certain lenses, Dual IS does not give a substantial advantage anyway. Which is not to say that the newer version won't. 

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Update Contents for H-ES045

Improvements 

Date/VersionDescription

2015/12/08
Ver.1.1Dual I.S.( Image Stabilizer ) is available by this firmware update.
(in case of the usage of Camera with this function)

* Dual I.S.:Innovative Handshake Correction System by the ideal combination of lens I.S and Body I.S.

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17 minutes ago, AKED-M said:

Then the question would be, if the lens or the body stabilizer alone will produce the better results.

Electronic Stabilization will produce the best results. Sorry, I couldn't help it. :) 

I don't think it's a question of either/or, but there are distinct advantages and disadvantages to both systems. From what I understand, with telephoto lenses, optical image stabilization is preferable. Here's a pretty comprehensive look at the different stabilization systems, along with their advantages and disadvantages.

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I did not mean the difference between optical or digfital stabilizer. The GH5 has IBIS stabilizer, the 14-140 and 100-300 have lens stabilization. If there will be no handshake, so that they are not working together, then it would be interstig to know, whch will be the better choice. We will be going to a safari in August, and I plan to take a GH5 with me. And there will be long telephoto shots, and therfore I would be interested, which stabilization system would be preferrable. But I reckon I just have to wait and test it. 

Ands yes, a tripod would be best, I know.

But not in a car :-)

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