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FHDcrew

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Posts posted by FHDcrew

  1. I am using a Nikon Z6 with either an Atomos Ninja V or an Atomos Ninja Star. Mostly shooting oversampled 1080p out of the HDMI port. By setting the rec setting to 4k and HDMI out to 1080p. I use the ninja v when I am doing interviews or lighting stuff so I can take advantage of LUT monitoring and waveforms, etc. For run-and-fun BROLL though I usually use the Ninja Star. Keeps the setup light and small. 
     

    As for lenses, to be honest I currently only have a Tamron 45mm 1.8 F-mount lens using the Nikon FTZ adapter. Looking to explains, however, and am strongly considering the Viltrox 24mm 1.8Z. Or maybe I will go with an f-mount Nikon 16-35 f4 as a nice affordable autofocus-capable ultra wide. 
     

     

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  2. Let’s share our work guys!  I’ll start. Here is an interview I shot and lit the other day, featuring a congresswoman from Indians!  One camera was a Nikon z6 recording into an Atomos ninja v.  With a Tamron 45mm 1.8.  The other was actually the ancient, cheap Canon 7D fitted with a Canon 85mm 1.2 shot at f/2.5!7A962651-8F13-422F-BB3C-44971A127F76.thumb.jpeg.d4666d323389303ec29e5aae5e64fe28.jpeg

  3. 1 hour ago, Amazeballs said:

    That is a ridiculous argument. A7s3 is photo camera now? Is this a joke? Everyone know its a video-first camera. Now I think Sony have moved from S series to FX now, but that doesnt mean that A7S3 suddenly became obsolete. 

    Agreed. Strange argument, I partially agree with mark but at the same time it obviously is video first. 

  4. 3 hours ago, PPNS said:

    From what ive read is that the difference between 12 and 14 bit readout on that specific sensor in that specific camera is less than half a stop of dynamic range.

     

    my sentiment on this issue can be boiled down by this little thought experiment:

    imagine youre DPing something and you have to budget for only 1 of these choices:

    - a theoretical camera with a 14 bit readout that lets you record in 12 bit log raw or 444

    or

    - an aputure 1200d, a little set of grip gear and a camera with a 12 bit readout that lets you record in 12 bit log raw or 444

     

    which one would you pick?

    Absolutely the 2nd option. 

  5. Also the 5D III does what many of us have wanted from modern cameras but haven’t gotten because of dumb politics…

     

    Uncompressed RAW sensor data dumped to the card. Nothing fancy. No compression, just taking the data and dumping it. Think of how many cameras have been released in the past 5 years with fast CFExpress interfaces. Could easily write RAW video to the card. This is so simple, even the 5d Mark II and the ancient Canon 50D do this. In 14 bit too. Not even hard. Instead they make us send the feed via HDMI to an external recorder when we are using modern cameras. 

  6. 2 hours ago, herein2020 said:

    As far as lighting goes I am with @FHDcrew, nothing beats natural light for most projects. Some projects of course are made for artificial lighting such as music videos but not because the lighting is needed; more so because the lighting is needed to add a certain mood to the video.

    It certainly goes a long way! If you use golden hour right for example you can get beautiful lighting without needing ANY lighting gear!  This frame I shot is from a 4 1/2 year old FF camera! Lighting and grading are what set things apart visually.  I’m serious cameras are close enough in terms of IQ that it doesn’t matter. 

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  7. On 3/7/2023 at 5:34 AM, SRV1981 said:

    Very cool and thanks! But what about image? Do you feel the c70 image is distinguishable when watching YT versus the R7 let’s say? 

    I'm gonna be honest man, I would really quit worrying about cameras and focus on your craft.  For the longest time you keep posting about camera recommendations and advice.  This is great for sure, but I'm sure you have a wonderful camera already.  They're all great.  They all have great DR.  They all have great color.  They all have more than enough low light.  They all have more than enough shallow DOF with the right lens.  So go out, film and learn lighting, even just natural lighting.  Focus on things like that instead of the pursuit of cameras all of the time.

  8. 3 hours ago, Thomas Pawlowski said:

    To me the camera is more important if you have no control of lighting. I'd take an Alexa everytime as it handles natural light really well, unless you are shooting in the dark where you need like 12,800 iso.

     

    Now is it worth the time effort considering what you'll likely be paid for run and gun shooting, probably not.

    This is true. If you have the control anything made in the last 10 years can look great, especially if you only have online delivery. Throw away that control over lighting and all of the sudden things like dynamic range and highlight rolloff become immensely important 

  9. 15 minutes ago, Beritar said:

    Do you know if the GH5II also has the heavy sharpening from the GH6 ? My GH6 and my S5II are very similar about sharpness, rough sharpening even at -5 with the standard profiles but also less fine details than S1/S5 and G9 because of the new "intelligent details" processing in the GH6.
    I really hoped Panasonic didn't put these processing on the S5II but it looks even worse.

    From what I’ve heard the GH5 II can have sharpening completely disabled, unlike most Panasonic cameras. 

  10. 2 hours ago, Kisaha said:

    "From a pure lab test perspective, it seems that there is no gain without pain: the new LUMIX S5 II has nice new features including solid autofocus, but unfortunately in the lab, it falls a bit behind the previous generation, the S5 – when pushed to the absolute extreme, to keep things in perspective.

    Not only is the rolling shutter worse (1ms more in full frame, 1.8ms more in APS-C), also the latitude result is not as good – it finishes with 7 stops of exposure latitude, mainly because of banding artifacts in the shadows and a more blotchy noise pattern which doesn’t look as pleasing to the eye.

    That said, the dynamic range results are very similar to the previous generation LUMIX S5."

    I would expect exactly the opposite, slight improvements on those numbers..hm..

    Maybe the ever so slightly decreased latitude is that quality decrease Panasonic kept saying when they tried to defend doing with Dirt-From-Defocus AF 😂 

  11. Just now, FHDcrew said:

    You may want to consider a used S1 instead. Not that much more expensive, but it does offer full-size HDMI. 

     

    Alternatively if you like autofocus you could get a used Nikon Z6, get the RAW upgrade and be able to shoot BRAW with a full frame sensor and AF. But it’s not 6k. Prores RAW is line skipped. Not sure if the same holds true for BRAW but my guess is that’s the case. 

    To be fair though from sample footage I’ve seen the line skipped footage looks fine

  12. 3 minutes ago, Matt Kieley said:

    So I've been using a bmpcc 4k for nearly 4 months now, and while I love the image from it, the braw codec, and the UI, it definitely has some limitations as a camera with a 5 year old sensor and lacks things I've missed from the GH5 and G9 like IBIS and the ergonomics (I'm not a fan of the P4K body/ergonomics). With the new S5 cameras being released, the used prices of the original have already gone down to tempting prices, so I've been thinking about getting the original S5 and using it with the BM Video Assist 12G. I figured that could be sort of the best of both worlds between mirrorless and cameras the p4k: ibis, braw, prores, bm touch screen UI, less processed/sharpened looking image, an XLR audio interface, options to use SSDs or SD cards, high quality monitor, false color. I was actually thinking maybe the Video Assist would be a worthy investment because I can always use it with different cameras if I decide to switch to something else later. It's almost like a cine cam brain but without being limited to one sensor or lens mount, you can basically use any camera (though not all offer raw, you could still record prores). It turns the S5 into a FF 6K braw cine camera/audio interface it ibis for around $2K. The only tradeoff is rigging and powering a separate device. I was hoping to hear of the user experience from anyone who has used this setup, or if there are caveats I'n not aware of, etc. 

    You may want to consider a used S1 instead. Not that much more expensive, but it does offer full-size HDMI. 

     

    Alternatively if you like autofocus you could get a used Nikon Z6, get the RAW upgrade and be able to shoot BRAW with a full frame sensor and AF. But it’s not 6k. Prores RAW is line skipped. Not sure if the same holds true for BRAW but my guess is that’s the case. 

  13. On 2/19/2023 at 5:41 AM, PannySVHS said:

    Panny has been in the video, camera and broadcast market for very long. Canon had no broadcast cameras for decades. 🙂

    2014, Panny started the 4K revolution. GH2 had lotta charisma, Lumix still has to me. Sometimes our assumptions and conclusions become a bit shaky after series of posts and replies.  @FHDcrew posted a spiffy video shot with Nikon z6 to external prores. Looking better than 99% of youtube stuff. Some of the best looking stuff on this forum regarding colour and overall craft of the finished video. Solid!

    This made my day man!  Thanks so much! I feel like I’ve grown a lot mainly in terms of lighting over the past while, and I also am always really satisfied with the image the Z6 spits out!  Such a great budget cam. 

  14. 21 minutes ago, MrSMW said:

    First attempt at grading Vlog.

    Well first proper attempt and with the S5ii because I have tried in previous years with the S5 and S1H and always ended up going back to first the Natural profile and then the Flat profile.

    This was with Gamut's (old, I need to download the latest version) re709 conversion and then my grade on top.

    4k 50p S35 crop footage shot with Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 APSC lens.

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    This looks great!  Nice use of natural light too!

  15. 1967841863_ScreenShot2023-02-16at7_51_50PM.thumb.jpg.ff1967007043e09e22384029a4efd890.jpgAn attempt at a more "filmic" grade with the Z6 NLOG image.  It’s actually pretty darn simple. In Davinci Resolve I converted the image to rec709 with basic exposure/contrast adjustments. Then I transformed the color space from rec709 to cineon (designed for this specific LUT). I applied one of the film LUTS built into Davinci resolve.  Then I add a glow effect to bloom the highlights. I increased saturation and adjusted the  color temp to warm it up.  That's pretty much it!

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