thebrothersthre3

7 minutes ago, MrSMW said:

That was my other option this morning when I decided to return the Ronin S, - get an 18-55 for anything handheld...but the bits of a wedding day when I need handheld are pretty much limited to gliding around guests at a drinks reception and following food being plated and servers taking it to the table. XH1 with IBIS sort of worked last year but wasn't quite up to it and I don't think the 18-55 would be either even with the new tweaked firmware.

I only use a monitor because of my ageing eyes! Even with my specs, reading LCD's on backs of cameras is getting to be an issue! Feelworld 5" last year but the Ninja this so can record externally to SSD and 10 bit etc. Could do without the extra weight of that for sure, but it's only a tad heavier than the Feelworld so I can live with it. Ronin S vs Pocket though? No contest!

The 18-55 works really well I think, as long as I am not trying to walk with it. Would be nice if it was an F2 zoom lol, some of those reception halls are way too dark. But thats asking a lot for a $200 lens. 

2 minutes ago, MrSMW said:

1: Without a gimbal, unless on a mono or tripod, OIS I reckon is a must so the 18-55 has the 16-55 beaten there. Other than being slightly wider and f2.8 at the long end, there isn't really that much in it between these two for stills, never mind video. I don't use either however, but the Sigma 18-35 f1.8 with Fringer Pro adapter in order to retain AF. It's longer and heavier than the 16-55 (plus not as wide or long) but the low light capability is the priority for me. If you don't need that, then I'd suggest the Fuji 18-55 is the better option for video.

2: I just tried a Ronin S. It's going back. Why? Combo of two things; A: big/bulky/heavy and B: overkill for my needs. Originally I planned on getting the DJI OSMO Pocket for anything handheld (which isn't that much to be honest as I prefer to work off a mono or tripod) but for just a 150 euros more, I could have the quality output of the XT3 on a gimbal. Step too far for me, so the Ronin is off back for a refund and I'm ordering the Pocket. I thought it was a superb thing, but once I had the XT3 on it with the Sigma plus the Ninja and on solid monopod base, a bit too unwieldy for my work.

Hope that helps.

 

Yeah I try to keep my gimbal as light as possible. Just the bare bones XT3 with 18-55 or a the 23mm f2 or 50 f2. I don't even use a monitor, though in some cases you'd need one. 

Everything gets so heavy when you do manual lenses plus follow focus and all that. Necessary for some work though.

I personally can't really tell. I do use it if I plan to be lifting shadows a lot, should also be better for scenes with a lot of movement.

Love it man, its got a 1980s fantasy look a bit. Lovely.

16 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

False. So very very very false. On multiple levels. 

Just flat out false. 

 

Maybe he meant to just saw Prores. 

I personally think you only need the DJI Osmo pocket for cinematic footage. 

17 minutes ago, MeanRevert said:

Thanks for the link!

If you guys will indulge me, I have a couple of other newbie questions:

1. I'm getting the 18-55mm kit lens, primarily due to the OIS.  For you guys with the 16-55mm, was the autofocus difference between them substantial?  How else do you feel about the kit lens vs the 16-55mm for video?

2. What gimbal are you guys using with the XT3?

I don't own the 16-55, though I wish the 18-55 had a constant aperture of 2.8, would be nice at the long end. F4 isn't bad though, at least not for a lens that cost me under $200. I've thought about getting the 16-55, but I need that ois. In fact I could get by with no zoom at all if the primes had OIS. The OIS works good enough where I sometimes use it rather than a gimbal or a tripod. Not for moving shots put if I just need to stand still or pan it works well. 

I am using the Ronin M, though that probably isn't of much help lol. Got tired of pistol grip gimbals. 

Still from a short I am working on. This isn't going to make it into the cut, but it was too cool not to share. 

Another thing people chase after a lot is the film look which I don't think is always synonymous with Cinema. I believe people often associate film with expensive now, because well it is or at least its much more of a process than shooting on a hybrid camera and popping in an SD card. I've seen some cool digital stuff that emulates an old film look like 8mm or 16mm, but not necessarily a look you'd see at a theater. 

I saw one of the original film copies of Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban recently at an art theater. It looked really vintage due to the film not being in perfect condition. Definitely what you'd call a film look. I remember seeing the movie on blueray a year or so ago, where I am sure they mastered it from a mint film copy. Needless to say I had no idea it was shot on film.

Skin tones that are exposed properly with soft light combined with everything else in the shot being exposed well. Most cameras have natural and nice color if exposed properly. Another thing is using quality light. A quality light source that isn't a mix of different temperatures. Make sure your light isn't being polluted by reflections that cause different color tints from a wall or the grass or whatever might be polluting your shot. I am not saying things can't be done in a cheaper quicker way, but that certainly isn't hollywood. Color correction is really only needed when things get f'ed up on set. 

There are exceptions like the Revanent mentioned above, but that's few and far between. Documentaries are certainly different. 

Sigma lens are amazing. I wouldn't say they have a lot of character, but they are incredibly sharp wide open. 

Great shots and who said the GH4 wasn't a capable camera haha

10 hours ago, KnightsFan said:

No problem, always glad to see some nice DIY stuff. I use various TalentCell batteries which have 9v and 12v outputs. Though they are unregulated, so I don't know how safe they would be to use with a dummy battery in a camera.

Yeah I've heard some horror stories about BM cameras dying from 3rd party battery systems.

2 hours ago, Django said:

I dunno if buying a secondhand 7-year-old FS700 + used shogun is really worth it... just to get 4K 10 bit 422.. in 2019..

At that point might as well get a Z6 + Ninja V and get access to 4K 10bit + ProRes Raw.. and enjoy a compact FF camera with IBIS, strong AF etc..

Well you get internal NDs. You also get 4k RAW 120fps and HD 240 fps. Nothing touches this in the price range. The Zcam does 120 4k but not even in prores and it's a smaller sensor. That said it doesn't sound like the OP needs something as powerful as the FS700. I personally would want something more compact for doc work.

1 hour ago, KnightsFan said:

Voltage is probably the issue. I believe the official power supply is here https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/820410-REG/Nikon_27055_EH_5B_AC_Adapter_for.html and it outputs 9v at 4.5A. You could get a 5V to 9V step up voltage converter. Your power bank outputs 5.8A, so with 100% efficiency in a step up converter you're looking at 9v at 3.2A, so it's less current than the Nikon power supply gives. It might be enough, I don't know how much power the BMPCC draws (a 5v 2.4A USB port was sufficient for my GH3 back in the day, so it'll probably work... but I don't know for sure). The other problem is that I doubt any single outlet on that power bank can actually supply 5.8A by itself, that's probably the total amount if you plug three different things in simultaneously.

It would be necessary to know how much the max current for any single USB port on that power bank outputs, and how much power the BMPCC actually draws.

Thanks for the help. I got a USB to DC 5v to 9v adapter, I believe it should work. Its what I had for my fuji, so it would make sense. Although the BM may use more power. It was only 3 bucks so not a big loss either way. 

42 minutes ago, KnightsFan said:

@thebrothersthre3 What voltage are you supplying? Are the screws tightly clamped onto the actual wire itself (It almost looks like they are screwed onto the insulation instead of the metal, but it's hard to see in the pic)? Do you have any tools to test conductivity?

Yeah I made sure the wires were clamped. I just looked, the DC to USB cord is only rated for 5volts, I am guessing that is the issue as the dummy battery needs 12volts I believe. 

This is the charger I have

Got this dummy battery and put a DC female plug on it, doesn't seem to work though. Maybe the plug is bad??

43 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Well now he is talking about a Canon 500 Dollar FF camera. Makes some good points but man that seems like a real long shot from Canon or any other company.

 

Not a bad move on canons part if true.

no thank you I'll stick to my cats 

Got my Nikon 28mm f2 today as well. Old lens but the glass itself is fungus and haze free. It flares more and isn't as sharp wide open as the 85mm f2, though I am still happy with the performance. Jpegs out of the XT3, Eterna and Classic Chrome

That looks awesome dude

38 minutes ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks to everyone who has replied. Really appreciate all the input and tips.

Here is the latest video I did over the weekend. I think overall the colors are a bit better, as I am becoming a bit more proficient with the qualifier tool. There are still some color casts, but I think that they are a bit better controlled (for the interiors, at least).

As for the backyard shots, it appears to me that some of the brightest clouds have a pinkish / magenta tinge to them. Is anyone else seeing that? Mostly in the bright part of the clouds along the horizon, starting at the 1:19 mark. Did I just grade those exterior shots too warm???

 

10 minutes ago, mercer said:

I thought the X-T3 got a 10bit h.264 firmware update?

Unfortunately no, its really not a huge deal for me but transcoding could be a pain if I was doing a huge project.

Just got a 17mm Tokina 3.5. This was the newer AF pro version. However the seller mismarked it as Nikon mount when it was actually an EF mount. So its useless for me. 

Just got a used vintage version of the same lens in Nikon mount from KEH cameras. They are marked as UGLY condition which isn't reassuring. Hoping I get lucky and get a good one or I may have to do some lens cleaning. 

12 minutes ago, stefanocps said:

right, but i don t understand, is the h265 that allow me that or is because the 10 bit recording is only in h265?

10 bit is the advantage 

H265 is a more efficient means of compression, though it really is only more efficient at lower bitrates from what I have heard. So its not really giving you an advantage with the XT3 recording 100, 200 or 400mbps. I would have preferred H264 10 bit like the GH5 or prores, even better.

If you are going to be raising shadows, or doing a lot of color grading. 

6 minutes ago, stefanocps said:

for what i have seen the 18 55 kit lens is really not to bad with its ois. Then i might add a gimbal later to use with my vintage lenses, but in general i use them totally in manual, that means on a tripod. So th stabilization part is no more a big point. Fuji has got aps c which is really interesting, while gh5 produce files that can be edited more easily than those in xt3. Also i like the much better battery life in gh5. Overall xt3 is more tempting to me than gh5. I have the idea that files it produces, without cc, cold be nicer than those produced without cc from gh5

Yeah it definitely has great colors. Honestly the 10 bit H265 wouldn't be needed in a lot of situations. If you are dealing with a high contrast scene it helps , but for a lot of stuff its not really essential.