gt3rs

I used to use PW remotes for my remote camera, now in most cases I just start video recording and select the image after from the video, is much quicker to find the right moment in Resolve that culling many images. The big advantage for me no more miss fires, buffer full and so on. Also the fact that now camera are fully silent is a big plus too in some environment that I place the remote

Spec are now public, seems a really impressive camera and priced quite aggressively at 5500$. 

I'm not a Nikon user but I'm very happy to see Nikon bring such camera to the market. To me at least at spec level it seems a much better camera that the R3 form 500$ less especially once they get Raw video and 8K 60 but even without it is still a better camera on paper.

I used to use PW remotes for my remote camera, now in most cases I just start video recording and select the image after from the video, is much quicker to find the right moment in Resolve that culling many images. The big advantage for me no more miss fires, buffer full and so on. Also the fact that now camera are fully silent is a big plus too in some environment that I place the remote

One recent example

EF 85 1.8 I had that it is ok but too short for most sports, I sold it as it was mostly collecting dust. If you find a really cheap used ok but if not stay away as there is a new RF 85 2.0 so the EF 85 1.8 value is tanking... 200 $ max

If it would be me:

EF 70-200 IS II used (1000 usd), Adapter EF-R (100 usd), RF 24-105 4-7.1 used (220 usd)

When you have some more money left add

RF 35 1.8 used (350 usd) or RF 50 1.8 used (180 usd) by looking at the focal length that you will use the most out of your experience with the RF 24-105 4-7.1......

If you did not buy yet the R6 I believe is sold in kit with the RF 24-105 4-7.1  (this is why there are so many used one on the market selling out of the kit, I got mine for 190 usd)

 

Every single pro sport photographer has a 70-200 2.8 not a 70-200 4 and I can tell pro sport venues have 2 to 4x the lighting of an amateur venue. I do work on this environment every week both pro and amateur. 

Better to buy a used non IS 70-200 2.8 lens than a modern f4. As I mention BG isolation in equally important. Sports is one of the few area where equipment will trump skills.. 

First Canon does not have any 24 1.8 is either 1.4 or 2.8 (useless lens today).....

Are you buying the RF or EF version of the 24-105 both EF versions are meh imo? I owned the Mk I and tested the Mk II.

Second, maybe I got it wrong but you want to shoot sport right? 
24-105 F4 for sports is not great (for me is bad but other my differ). 24-70 2.8 is better especially later shots at 24 where the subject travel very fast you need very high ss...

For sports you want BG isolation, reach and high shutter speed. Most common sports lens are 70-200 2.8, 200-400 F4 and 400 2.8 not by chance. 

Not sure that the hobbyist noise remark that somebody did was for me as I said 1 stop can make a big difference...  
  


 

 

First Canon does not have any 24 1.8 is either 1.4 or 2.8 (useless lens today).....

Are you buying the RF or EF version of the 24-105 both EF versions are meh imo? I owned the Mk I and tested the Mk II.

Second, maybe I got it wrong but you want to shoot sport right? 
24-105 F4 for sports is not great (for me is bad but other my differ). 24-70 2.8 is better especially later shots at 24 where the subject travel very fast you need very high ss...

For sports you want BG isolation, reach and high shutter speed. Most common sports lens are 70-200 2.8, 200-400 F4 and 400 2.8 not by chance. 

Not sure that the hobbyist noise remark that somebody did was for me as I said 1 stop can make a big difference...  
  


 

 

R5 user here.

For video:
  EF ND adapter + EF 24-70 2.8 II, EF 24 1.4 II, EF 50 1.2 (Gimbal, handled)
  EF ND adapter + EF 200-400 F4 (tripod plus electric zoom motor)
  RF 70-200 2.8 (tripod plus electric zoom motor, handheld) + ND
 
For sports
  EF 200-400 4
  RF 70-200 2.8
Remote:
  EF 16-35 2.8 or EF 24-70 2.8
              
For travel/photo/family some combination of the following:
  RF 16 2.8
  RF 35 1.8
  RF 24-105 7.1
  RF 70-200 2.8
 
I just got the RF 16 I will do some test against the EF 16-35 II if it is ok (not expecting that is on pair but I don't need to be) I will sell the 16-35 as I have many options from >= 24.
The RF 70-200 2.8 is best lens I ever had only missing thing is the ND and the ridiculous hood that stays at home most of the time as it is so big. Lens is small, light for a 2.8 and super sharp. With IBIS and IS I can do a lot handheld videos too.

If I would start from zero with your use cases I would take normal adapter + ND adapter + used EF 24-70 2.8 II + used EF 70-200 2.8 II (not the III they are the same and you save money). As an alternative but more expensive. RF 24-70 2.8 and RF 70-200 2.8 plus NDs

I had the EF 24-105 for a long time and I did not like it at all, the EF II is a bit better and the RF version is good but the 2.8  both EF II and RF are sharper. At the end the main point for me is that I do action/sport a lot and 2.8 vs 4 is iso 4000 vs iso 8000. Just shooting 2h ago a CSI Horse Showjumping event indoor and that was the condition.
You don’t loose quality with adapter nor AF speed. RF lenses are new design so in some cases are a bit better is some other much better but cost/performance used EF are a good deal, I would not buy new EF at this point. Should check which on supports mechanical 12 fps some old one do not support and camera go lower fps.
3party is a hit and miss they tend to loose value quicker, so you may save at buy but loose at sell. Some have AF quirks. I’m sure there are good ones…
 

R5 user here.

For video:
  EF ND adapter + EF 24-70 2.8 II, EF 24 1.4 II, EF 50 1.2 (Gimbal, handled)
  EF ND adapter + EF 200-400 F4 (tripod plus electric zoom motor)
  RF 70-200 2.8 (tripod plus electric zoom motor, handheld) + ND
 
For sports
  EF 200-400 4
  RF 70-200 2.8
Remote:
  EF 16-35 2.8 or EF 24-70 2.8
              
For travel/photo/family some combination of the following:
  RF 16 2.8
  RF 35 1.8
  RF 24-105 7.1
  RF 70-200 2.8
 
I just got the RF 16 I will do some test against the EF 16-35 II if it is ok (not expecting that is on pair but I don't need to be) I will sell the 16-35 as I have many options from >= 24.
The RF 70-200 2.8 is best lens I ever had only missing thing is the ND and the ridiculous hood that stays at home most of the time as it is so big. Lens is small, light for a 2.8 and super sharp. With IBIS and IS I can do a lot handheld videos too.

If I would start from zero with your use cases I would take normal adapter + ND adapter + used EF 24-70 2.8 II + used EF 70-200 2.8 II (not the III they are the same and you save money). As an alternative but more expensive. RF 24-70 2.8 and RF 70-200 2.8 plus NDs

I have a R5 since October 2020. I had a 1Dx III from march 2020 until two weeks ago, sold it to buy an additional R5.
Never used an R6 so I cannot comment on that.
 
I basically have 2 custom settings that I use for video: 8k RAW Light 24-30 fps and 4k 120 fps Clog (rarely use Clog3). Rarely I use 4k HQ IPB with no log if I need to give the video for some quick and dirty usage without any further processing.
 
R5 is imo a much better camera than the 1Dx III:
8k RAW is better that 5.5k RAW not for the resolution (although it give some more room for post zoom and pan) but mostly for the much better rolling shutter 15 ms vs 29 ms
4k 120fps is way way better than the junk 1080 120 of the 1Dx III.
Crop quality is a tad better
Lightweight, better on Gimbals
Smaller to pack, basically I can take 2 R5 in the space and weight of a 1Dx III, if you add the insane big charger of the 1Dx III you can take a gazillion number of R5 batteries…..
Flippy screen much better on Gimbals and in low angles
45 mpix much better than 20 mpix for photo
Has zebra
IBIS, IBIS + IS lens allow me to film quite a bit without a tripod, very handy for filming while backpacking for ski, mtb, etc…..
EF-RF Adapter with VND
 
1Dx III is better in:
No overheating
Initial AF acquisition with long lenses but only for photos in non liveview mode.
Has 5.5 RAW at 60fps but no AF
Longer battery life
Same dual card type
More rugged and better weather sealing
 
 
The biggest gain for me with the last firmware is the RAW Light that basically give me almost 2x storage. I’m a fan of RAW as it give me more flexibility in post than Clog and Clog3…. is probably me not doing it right but for me is a night and day difference RAW vs. Clog how much more post processing I can do and fix mistakes. Bonus that on my PC the RAW Light file are much easier to edit than 10bit Clog ones.
 
At the end the only question is if you need long takes and in case that things go south can you live with 4k SQ if the camera would overheat?
 
In my case it has never overheated in 8K RAW Light in my usage (but it will eventually happen). I got at the limit a couple of times at 30-35° C under the sun shooting at 4k 120 fps, this is the mode that seems to overheats the most.

Official press release: https://www.canonrumors.com/here-is-the-official-canon-usa-press-release-for-the-canon-eos-r3/

6k 60P RAW
4k oversampled from 6k
4k 120P
No time limit (so no 30min limit), can record up to 6h continuously
CLog and CLog3

As always devil will be in the details.....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zdfdmPXy1XDpoSdllbugt0ATg36gSJop/view

There aren't enough FF cinema lenses in the PL mount to warrant it. Hence the RF mount.  PL lenses can be adapted, and any other cine modded, FF still lens can be adapted. 

I have a R5 since October 2020. I had a 1Dx III from march 2020 until two weeks ago, sold it to buy an additional R5.
Never used an R6 so I cannot comment on that.
 
I basically have 2 custom settings that I use for video: 8k RAW Light 24-30 fps and 4k 120 fps Clog (rarely use Clog3). Rarely I use 4k HQ IPB with no log if I need to give the video for some quick and dirty usage without any further processing.
 
R5 is imo a much better camera than the 1Dx III:
8k RAW is better that 5.5k RAW not for the resolution (although it give some more room for post zoom and pan) but mostly for the much better rolling shutter 15 ms vs 29 ms
4k 120fps is way way better than the junk 1080 120 of the 1Dx III.
Crop quality is a tad better
Lightweight, better on Gimbals
Smaller to pack, basically I can take 2 R5 in the space and weight of a 1Dx III, if you add the insane big charger of the 1Dx III you can take a gazillion number of R5 batteries…..
Flippy screen much better on Gimbals and in low angles
45 mpix much better than 20 mpix for photo
Has zebra
IBIS, IBIS + IS lens allow me to film quite a bit without a tripod, very handy for filming while backpacking for ski, mtb, etc…..
EF-RF Adapter with VND
 
1Dx III is better in:
No overheating
Initial AF acquisition with long lenses but only for photos in non liveview mode.
Has 5.5 RAW at 60fps but no AF
Longer battery life
Same dual card type
More rugged and better weather sealing
 
 
The biggest gain for me with the last firmware is the RAW Light that basically give me almost 2x storage. I’m a fan of RAW as it give me more flexibility in post than Clog and Clog3…. is probably me not doing it right but for me is a night and day difference RAW vs. Clog how much more post processing I can do and fix mistakes. Bonus that on my PC the RAW Light file are much easier to edit than 10bit Clog ones.
 
At the end the only question is if you need long takes and in case that things go south can you live with 4k SQ if the camera would overheat?
 
In my case it has never overheated in 8K RAW Light in my usage (but it will eventually happen). I got at the limit a couple of times at 30-35° C under the sun shooting at 4k 120 fps, this is the mode that seems to overheats the most.

I have a R5 since October 2020. I had a 1Dx III from march 2020 until two weeks ago, sold it to buy an additional R5.
Never used an R6 so I cannot comment on that.
 
I basically have 2 custom settings that I use for video: 8k RAW Light 24-30 fps and 4k 120 fps Clog (rarely use Clog3). Rarely I use 4k HQ IPB with no log if I need to give the video for some quick and dirty usage without any further processing.
 
R5 is imo a much better camera than the 1Dx III:
8k RAW is better that 5.5k RAW not for the resolution (although it give some more room for post zoom and pan) but mostly for the much better rolling shutter 15 ms vs 29 ms
4k 120fps is way way better than the junk 1080 120 of the 1Dx III.
Crop quality is a tad better
Lightweight, better on Gimbals
Smaller to pack, basically I can take 2 R5 in the space and weight of a 1Dx III, if you add the insane big charger of the 1Dx III you can take a gazillion number of R5 batteries…..
Flippy screen much better on Gimbals and in low angles
45 mpix much better than 20 mpix for photo
Has zebra
IBIS, IBIS + IS lens allow me to film quite a bit without a tripod, very handy for filming while backpacking for ski, mtb, etc…..
EF-RF Adapter with VND
 
1Dx III is better in:
No overheating
Initial AF acquisition with long lenses but only for photos in non liveview mode.
Has 5.5 RAW at 60fps but no AF
Longer battery life
Same dual card type
More rugged and better weather sealing
 
 
The biggest gain for me with the last firmware is the RAW Light that basically give me almost 2x storage. I’m a fan of RAW as it give me more flexibility in post than Clog and Clog3…. is probably me not doing it right but for me is a night and day difference RAW vs. Clog how much more post processing I can do and fix mistakes. Bonus that on my PC the RAW Light file are much easier to edit than 10bit Clog ones.
 
At the end the only question is if you need long takes and in case that things go south can you live with 4k SQ if the camera would overheat?
 
In my case it has never overheated in 8K RAW Light in my usage (but it will eventually happen). I got at the limit a couple of times at 30-35° C under the sun shooting at 4k 120 fps, this is the mode that seems to overheats the most.

I have a R5 since October 2020. I had a 1Dx III from march 2020 until two weeks ago, sold it to buy an additional R5.
Never used an R6 so I cannot comment on that.
 
I basically have 2 custom settings that I use for video: 8k RAW Light 24-30 fps and 4k 120 fps Clog (rarely use Clog3). Rarely I use 4k HQ IPB with no log if I need to give the video for some quick and dirty usage without any further processing.
 
R5 is imo a much better camera than the 1Dx III:
8k RAW is better that 5.5k RAW not for the resolution (although it give some more room for post zoom and pan) but mostly for the much better rolling shutter 15 ms vs 29 ms
4k 120fps is way way better than the junk 1080 120 of the 1Dx III.
Crop quality is a tad better
Lightweight, better on Gimbals
Smaller to pack, basically I can take 2 R5 in the space and weight of a 1Dx III, if you add the insane big charger of the 1Dx III you can take a gazillion number of R5 batteries…..
Flippy screen much better on Gimbals and in low angles
45 mpix much better than 20 mpix for photo
Has zebra
IBIS, IBIS + IS lens allow me to film quite a bit without a tripod, very handy for filming while backpacking for ski, mtb, etc…..
EF-RF Adapter with VND
 
1Dx III is better in:
No overheating
Initial AF acquisition with long lenses but only for photos in non liveview mode.
Has 5.5 RAW at 60fps but no AF
Longer battery life
Same dual card type
More rugged and better weather sealing
 
 
The biggest gain for me with the last firmware is the RAW Light that basically give me almost 2x storage. I’m a fan of RAW as it give me more flexibility in post than Clog and Clog3…. is probably me not doing it right but for me is a night and day difference RAW vs. Clog how much more post processing I can do and fix mistakes. Bonus that on my PC the RAW Light file are much easier to edit than 10bit Clog ones.
 
At the end the only question is if you need long takes and in case that things go south can you live with 4k SQ if the camera would overheat?
 
In my case it has never overheated in 8K RAW Light in my usage (but it will eventually happen). I got at the limit a couple of times at 30-35° C under the sun shooting at 4k 120 fps, this is the mode that seems to overheats the most.

I have a R5 since October 2020. I had a 1Dx III from march 2020 until two weeks ago, sold it to buy an additional R5.
Never used an R6 so I cannot comment on that.
 
I basically have 2 custom settings that I use for video: 8k RAW Light 24-30 fps and 4k 120 fps Clog (rarely use Clog3). Rarely I use 4k HQ IPB with no log if I need to give the video for some quick and dirty usage without any further processing.
 
R5 is imo a much better camera than the 1Dx III:
8k RAW is better that 5.5k RAW not for the resolution (although it give some more room for post zoom and pan) but mostly for the much better rolling shutter 15 ms vs 29 ms
4k 120fps is way way better than the junk 1080 120 of the 1Dx III.
Crop quality is a tad better
Lightweight, better on Gimbals
Smaller to pack, basically I can take 2 R5 in the space and weight of a 1Dx III, if you add the insane big charger of the 1Dx III you can take a gazillion number of R5 batteries…..
Flippy screen much better on Gimbals and in low angles
45 mpix much better than 20 mpix for photo
Has zebra
IBIS, IBIS + IS lens allow me to film quite a bit without a tripod, very handy for filming while backpacking for ski, mtb, etc…..
EF-RF Adapter with VND
 
1Dx III is better in:
No overheating
Initial AF acquisition with long lenses but only for photos in non liveview mode.
Has 5.5 RAW at 60fps but no AF
Longer battery life
Same dual card type
More rugged and better weather sealing
 
 
The biggest gain for me with the last firmware is the RAW Light that basically give me almost 2x storage. I’m a fan of RAW as it give me more flexibility in post than Clog and Clog3…. is probably me not doing it right but for me is a night and day difference RAW vs. Clog how much more post processing I can do and fix mistakes. Bonus that on my PC the RAW Light file are much easier to edit than 10bit Clog ones.
 
At the end the only question is if you need long takes and in case that things go south can you live with 4k SQ if the camera would overheat?
 
In my case it has never overheated in 8K RAW Light in my usage (but it will eventually happen). I got at the limit a couple of times at 30-35° C under the sun shooting at 4k 120 fps, this is the mode that seems to overheats the most.

Absolutely. We glossed on this same subject a couple of months ago on another thread.
These "technical" reviewers on YT are very capable individuals with a keen sense of money. They are wicked good with the telepromter and have loads of charisma. Any mistakes are swiflty dealt with 100 cuts during editing.
Yet, it all feeds the same huge business model: newer is better. Time to spend yet again. "GH5? Bleh. Yesterday's news. Buy your S5 NOW and receive 10% off with my promo code!. Who cares if you need to spend $2,000-$3,000 on a new body and new lenses. You NEED that full frame look to be taken seriously".
This is the Gilded Age of YouTube. But that fine golden leaf is starting to show some cracks...

I'm quite a fan of Potato Jet - he's clearly a nice guy and also a working commercial videographer (although he readily admits that his YT activities take up more and more of his time). His really strong kit recommendations tend to be for items he finds useful for his commercial work (and the Arri Alexa thing was fairly jokey - although he still has the beast standing on a tripod in his studio). Similar to him are the guys at Epic Light Media, who intersperse gear videos with lighting tutorials and flights of preposterous fancy.
A YouTuber who is much more focused on actual film making is, of course, Rob Ellis, whose videos about lighting, composition and colour are excellent.
Personally I find Gerald dry as dust and twice as boring.

Sony A1 in 8K video has exactly the same rolling shutter as the R5 15.5ms..... don't trust marketing bla bla.

Why you want to use ProRes Raw instead of Canon Raw Light? Did you test both 8k RAW in your machine?

Sorry I have no idea as I hate external recorders.

1DX III has already RAW Lite it was released in fw 1.4 at the same time as the R5 RAW Lite firmware. I have and use it on my 1DX III.
No CLog3 yet.

Not sure it is really worth, risking stuff entering the camera, breaking the door, breaking the cable etc.. 

A delikin 2 TB CFexpress that sometime is on sale for 800$ is a better investment.