homestar_kevin

Sounds like you should look into Rokinon/Samyang lenses. 
The Nikon 20mm 2.8 and 85mm f/2 are both fantastic lenses, but are also both small, which you say you don't like.
The samyang/rokinon lenses are all faster aperture and bigger in size.
They're widely available in a ton of mounts, cover full frame, and are cheap/easily replacable.
 
 

Someone buy this before I do. 

Zeiss 25mm 2.8 with Duclous Cinemod for $500

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zeiss-Distagon-T-25mm-f-2-8-ZF-2-Lens-for-Nikon-F-Mount-with-Duclos-Cine-Mod/324159982075?hash=item4b7970c9fb:g:LFUAAOSwZ-ReoIlr

I wouldn't settle for anything less than a secondhand Sony UWP-D11 (or a Sennheiser G3, which is the same price pretty much secondhand, although in my opinion Sony is superior). There is also their newer models: Sony UWP-D21 and Sennheiser G4 (although, in my opinion the G4 isn't worth the extra value over the older cheaper G3 because the G4 isn't an update of note at all for their entry level).

There is also the Deity Connect Wireless to consider, which provides better value on a per channel basis. 

 
From memory, didn't the D5200 have a somewhat hissy mic preamp? You might want to pick up a Tascam DR60Dmk2 as well. (or even better, a MixPre3mk2 if you can)

The tokina 2.6-2.8 is definitely one of my favorites and probably one of the lenses I've had the longest.
I have no intention of selling mine, it's just so great. I'm still very happy with it.
I have gotten other zooms that I use a bit more regularly these days (Nikon 28-70 2.8 and Samsung 16-50 2-2.8), but that tokina is just epic.

Hey everyone, I've always been content with just using individual batteries for all my gear, and still typically do.
I'm used to using Sony NPF style batteries to power things like black magic cameras, LED lights, monitors, etc.
But I've been accumulating more bits and pieces to the point where I'm starting to see the advantage and benefit of having everything plugged into one bigger battery more power on tap for everything.
I'd mostly be powering a camera (typically just a small mirrorless), a monitor or evf, a tilta nucleus nano, Maybe an audio recorder too.
I wanted to see what you were all doing to power your set ups and what you were using/sending power to.
I've started piecing together an anton bauer gold mount kit, but am pretty new to this world so wanted to reach out and see where you were all at.
What are your battery needs/solutions?
I'm thinking about getting this LanParte Gold mount battery pinch, does anyone have experience with this?
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1100250-REG/lanparte_abp_01_a_mount_battery_pinch_and.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=CjwKCAjwqJ_1BRBZEiwAv73uwAv0u4Ab2af962lUiZB_L_EExRoBb5ob_jj7JrH9qCfnrwmMswMCYBoC50oQAvD_BwE
 
 

The tokina 2.6-2.8 is definitely one of my favorites and probably one of the lenses I've had the longest.
I have no intention of selling mine, it's just so great. I'm still very happy with it.
I have gotten other zooms that I use a bit more regularly these days (Nikon 28-70 2.8 and Samsung 16-50 2-2.8), but that tokina is just epic.

@JordanWright Hallo, a few words from you about the Tokina would be cool. I know, a lot has been written about it. But I can never get enough of some beautiful lens reports. I even own one myself but never got around to buy a better adapter for it and get beyond 8 metres of distance.

More Tokina 28-70 2.6-2.8

Best thing about that lens is how natural the falloff is and the lack of breathing. 

This is an older Test I did with it, jump to 4:12 to see samples and how "smooth" it is. 
 

The Tokina is the lens I always seem to go back to. I think this is my 3rd copy, I'll probably never let it go again. I paid much less than £200 each time. I sold the Sigma zooms because I rarely used them after my most recent copy.
Mechanically it's a dream at its price point. The lens doesn't extend and the focus ring has hard stops. It would make a great cine-mod lens. It also has a short throw, good for handheld pulling. The zoom ring is quite stiff, you won't be zooming mid shot.  It feels well built, it'll survive a few knocks. The AF system seems to be broken on every one of these I've used, but that usually means they sell at a cheaper price.
Optically, it's not the sharpest lens in the world but also not noticeably soft even wide open on a SB. This is where I sort of miss the sigma zooms. It also doesn't focus very close (0.7m) 28mm on the lens really sings when filming people, really wish I could get a bit closer. The lens also isn't par focal, but its not far off, it only needs minor adjustments. Breathing is very well controlled. On the wide end, the lens distorts a touch more than a modern lens, but I quite how it falls off.
The lens flares really change through the focal length, I always experiment with the zoom when there's flares. Around 35mm if one of my favourites, you get some cool thin red rings. The lens flares very easily, I like it for narrative stuff but always have some black wrap or gaff tape on hand for corporate shoots.
It's such an all rounder zoom lens to have in the bag, just enough character for narrative work but can also clean up when it needs to.
 

Sleeper typically means under the radar, or a good thing that not enough people talk about.

 

The new C300 looks like it will make a very nice accessory add on for buyers of the new 25-250 T2.95 lens they are releasing as well.

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses.
If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff.
Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. 
I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point.
The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system.
They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong.
You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses.
I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF.
The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those.
You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS.
I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. 

It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want. 
 
 
 

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses.
If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff.
Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. 
I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point.
The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system.
They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong.
You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses.
I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF.
The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those.
You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS.
I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. 

It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want. 
 
 
 

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses.
If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff.
Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. 
I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point.
The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system.
They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong.
You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses.
I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF.
The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those.
You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS.
I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. 

It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want. 
 
 
 

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses.
If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff.
Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. 
I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point.
The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system.
They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong.
You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses.
I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF.
The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those.
You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS.
I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. 

It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want. 
 
 
 

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses.
If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff.
Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. 
I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point.
The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system.
They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong.
You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses.
I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF.
The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those.
You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS.
I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. 

It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want. 
 
 
 

We're working from home for the forseeable future, so I"m taking it easy and cleaning my office/gear room on the clock as 'administrative' tasks.
My goal is to start taking camera walks more and to finish building out some different things.
I have 3 of the Travor 3060a LED flex panels that I've worked out a rig for to put the three of them together into a 60x90 (2x3) grid and I've ordered a bunch of supplies to hook them up into different modular combinations 60x60 (2x2).
I ordered some different sized quick umbrella soft boxes to mount them inside of in the various configs.

We're working from home for the forseeable future, so I"m taking it easy and cleaning my office/gear room on the clock as 'administrative' tasks.
My goal is to start taking camera walks more and to finish building out some different things.
I have 3 of the Travor 3060a LED flex panels that I've worked out a rig for to put the three of them together into a 60x90 (2x3) grid and I've ordered a bunch of supplies to hook them up into different modular combinations 60x60 (2x2).
I ordered some different sized quick umbrella soft boxes to mount them inside of in the various configs.

Your focal length also has a great deal of impact on performance.
Some examples would be shooting scenes from further back with a more telephoto lens to create separation from the performance/actors and give them more space. The opposite is also true, if you get uncomfortably close with wide angle lenses, you'll inherently see a difference in the performance vs if you were shooting from a more comfortable distance.

I felt seen, haha. 

Spotted this last night on Curb Your Enthusiasm. A GH5s being used as a prop deposition camera. It’s in a cage which makes me think this is an actual production tool. Maybe a crash cam or second unit. Pretty cool. 

Hey, Sorry for the late reply, just saw your post.
That is a C/Y mount Zeiss 50mm 1.4 with a C mount adapter.
If you push the little silver button/lever on the back of the lens down or back (towards the rear of the lens), you should be able to unmount the lens from the C mount adapter.
After it's loose from the adapter you can get other adapters to mount it onto your Samsung NX, Canon EOS, or pretty much any other camera you'd buy in the future.
 
 
 

Does your current job use adobe CC suite for photo processing/editing?
If so, I'd recommend learning premiere.
Honestly though, as a beginning editor, just learn any of the major programs and start doing some work.

At a certain point you'll get some basics and learn how to make the editor do what you want it to do.
At that point, you can transfer your knowledge to other editing programs as needed.
Hot key shortcuts and processes can be different between the different programs, but learning how to edit on any of them will give you a huge leg up if you want/need to learn another program in the future.

Ah nice!
Had seen some rumors the past few days that it might be removed.
I can definitely see the appeal of this for anyone that has older nikon lenses or has a current d750.
I'm not interested in it at the launch price, but give it a few months.