j-oc

The shutter is the best thing about the camera - honestly. You need only the slightest half press to focus and little bit more to trip the shutter. Despite this, it is easy to apply the right pressure for the right task. And it is sooooooooooooo quiet.

Not sure exactly what you mean by the jerky thing. It is really really good if you are trying to hold an image still, you can easily make a usable shot with the 56mm. If you are panning with it on you'll get the floaty floaty floaty move thing you get with all stabilisers - lens and body based.
It's good. It is generally better at side to side rather than back to front tracking and it likes simple scenes and lots of light - but it works.
S Priority is pretty smooth. Auto ISO is ok but not spectacular. A priority is noticeably jerky.
No, once its acquired focus it tends to stay put. The autofocus performance is pretty dependent on the lens you use. On the older ones like the 23/1.4mm and 56mm it is not as snappy, precise or as smooth as the newer ones like the 16-55.

Torteloni with sausage. Had the pineapple while waiting.
And now to a productive afternoon fiddling around with a camera!

Mine arrived this morning. I've got some work to do now but I'll be playing with this after lunch if you have any questions.

Mine arrived this morning. I've got some work to do now but I'll be playing with this after lunch if you have any questions.

Something light - probably tagliatelle. There might be some pineapple for dessert.
Jesus, I have to get on!

Balls! That’s a pain - thanks for checking it out.

Cool review - but please don’t use the word ‘retard’. It’s cruel and unnecessary.

Cool review - but please don’t use the word ‘retard’. It’s cruel and unnecessary.

Cool review - but please don’t use the word ‘retard’. It’s cruel and unnecessary.

Since you have the cameras and lenses, why don't you just make a small comparison. Distortion of the different lenses will make it a little bit complicated so  try to stick to simple designs.
Take the GH5 with a 28mm lens at 2.8 and the hasselblad h3d 39 with the 80mm and f8. Same lens front (lens nodal point would be better) to object distance. Let's say 3 meters headshot with plenty of things going on behind, post the images here and let's see about that compression.
 

Yes it is.
You can never say that a higher resolution is always better than a low. Because we know for a fact that people like both.
DR.. some prefer a contrasty look.
Sharpness can make an image both beautiful and ugly (just look at your new lenses. They do not win any sharpness measuring contests, but you still like them).
This list goes on and on.
Name one variable and I will find you people that prefer both sides of a scale.
IQ is a subjective feeling.  Not a measurable fact.
Understanding this is one of the things that separates a creator from a "guy with a camera" imo.


 

Word.
Am jazzed about this and can't wait until December - my favourite tool just became even more useful.

Where?
(Because I know you don't mean the video I posted since it wasn't even shot with an X-Pro2. And it was obviously just some quick clips without an ND made for fun. I was planning on using my smartphone for it... and that would have been good enough. 
Hardly a reference for video quality imo.
The stills in the video on the other hand look f..ing amazing, so you cant mean them. And Ive never been able to get anything as good looking from a Panasonic.
If the GH5 is a video camera with still capabilities as an after thought.. well.. then why have they designed it as a stills camera.. what a waste.)

I've not done exactly this but I used a Bluetooth audio monitoring system in the context of a theatre show and to be honest it was a massive pain in the ass.
It's fine when it works but being a consumer system there will be an occasion when it won't and it becomes an unnecessary source of aggravation. Cables are cheap, simple and idiot proof.
 

Not exactly your situation but similar... The battery indicators on my X-Pro2 are extremely unreliable. If I'm photographing a long event, think wedding, when I'm using two cameras but not using one for a while I'll turn it off when it's hanging over my shoulder and turn it back on in the same movement on as I raise it to my eye. I've nailed this technique so I don't lose any time doing it.
I don't find the actual battery life too bad, and it is pretty consistent - but yeah, the indicators are not all that.

It sounds like you and I have completely different ergonomic brains! I used to use the 5D in continuous focus via the shutter half press and could never get it to behave predictably. By contrast with the D750, cross points or no, once I figured out how the AF worked it was really easy to adapt camera movements, triggering the AF, timing of the shutter release etc to get what I was after.
And I love that 3 way selector! It feels natural to me to have single farthest away from me, manual closest and continuous a click in either direction.
Its cool how we both love the thing that drives the other crazy. Moral of the story: rent before you buy.

AF system preference can be somewhat subjective depending on what/how you shoot. I use single point / back-button focus methods so the 5D3's joystick, wider AF point spread and it's much higher number of cross-type points (41 vs 15 on the D750) gives me a lower miss-focus rate. also love the quick toggle from single to continuous via DoF button. This specific configuration and shooting style gives me great confidence and results on stressful and unpredictable scenarios like weddings, kids, events etc..
One of the things I hate most about XT2 ergonomics is the 3-way AF mode front switch. I'm always fumbling around for it and ending up in the wrong mode. I'd rather just a 2-way switch and manual override on the lens like Canikon. YMMV.

@BTM_Pix
Thank you very much for your efforts! Quintessence (as I understand your experience): There is not much difference between the D500 and the X-T2 concerning focusing in very low light on not fast moving subjects.
@Django
Thank you for sharing your experience concerning the difference between D750 and the X-T2! 
Yep...Technology moved on during the past years, but there is still a big difference between APS-C and FF in many aspects...shooting moving subjects in poor light conditions is only one aspect of the story....
@j-oc
That's why (+ the poor shadow recovery and poor DR) I switched - for stills - to Nikon. The 5D m3 is a great camera (I sold all my Canon cameras - 1D line, 5D x line - except my first Canon camera 400d and the 7D, keeping these because of nostalgy) but for my needs the D750 is much more better (AF constancy, DR, etc.). The 5D m3 had (not only for me) a minimum of double as many misfocused shots as the D750 (not only in low light) when shooting moving subjects on location with high requiremets in detail.
Some buddys told me, the 5D m4 would be much more consistant when talking AF and DR, but finally the Canon photo game is over for me.

OK, I've done a basic little test.
Its tricky to do it exactly equivalent because of lens variances etc and my range of X mount lenses is limited compared to my Nikons but anyway.
The test 'scene' was a bedroom with a tiny fragment of outside light, an empty clear mineral water bottle stood on a beige duvet cover with a plain light coloured wall behind. 
So it was low light and not much for the AF to grab hold of as the more distinct contrast points were the creases on the duvet cover!
The illumination level at the bottle was 2 lux according to my Sekonic.
Exposure for the cameras was ISO 12800, f3.2, 1/50th.
On the D500 I used a Nikon AF-S 24-70mm f2.8G ED FX and on the XT-2 the closest thing I've got to that which is the XF18-55 f2.8-4.
Not doing the Fuji any favours really by putting a mid-range kit lens against one of Nikon's holy trinity but I'm guessing you'd sooner have a less than ideal case scenario anyway.
Also, I've used the Nikon 24-70 for years in every permutation of light and environment you can imagine so I'm comfortable with using it as the benchmark in this instance.
The test was to manually set lenses to infinity (so they had to do some work), switch AF on and then swing around to the bottle in centre frame and fire.
The results were that there wasn't a massive amount of difference to be honest.
Both of them locked in as short a period of time as to leave me comfortable that if I was ever in a scenario where I had to shoot an empty water bottle in a virtually dark room that I wouldn't miss a second of the action.
Neither of them hunted particularly. The majority of the time you could hear the motors had only gone in one direction without overshooting and coming back. Very occasionally they'd go back again but they both did it and never more than one overshoot. 
Where the Fuji scored big though of course is with the EVF you could actually see what it was you were shooting whereas of course with the OVF of the D500 you're virtually blind in that scenario.
Changing lenses out on the Fuji to the 35mm f1.4 and the 50-230 f5.6 was a different issue though.
The 35mm was the worse of the two and would almost always overshoot at least once whereas the 50-230 would generally just do it once.
So, all in all, even with the right lens, its marginally slower than the D500 and even with the wrong lens it will get you there without too many overshoots if you happen to find yourself shooting in conditions where, to be fair, you might want to re-think whether its a video camera you need or a thermal imaging one.
How this test would have gone if the water bottle had decided to get up and run around and which one would track the better I don't know.
But from the actual real jobs I've been doing with the XT-2 the past couple of weeks, I wouldn't be massively concerned about that either.

What a source of information!!
Plenty of examples and exercises.
Thats what i was looking for.
 

Yeah, I love this presentation by Larry Jordan that also mentions Alexis Van Hurkman's book:
 

@j-oc @Cinegain Thanks alot!
Great start point .

Alexis Van Hurkman's book (remember them?) Colour Correction Handbook is a great introduction to the theory of colour grading and a useful reference. Read it and then get some training on the software of your choice.

Alexis Van Hurkman's book (remember them?) Colour Correction Handbook is a great introduction to the theory of colour grading and a useful reference. Read it and then get some training on the software of your choice.