hyalinejim

Hey guys! Still finishing up my full review. Do you guys have any questions about it? 

Yes, supposedly. 

And APSC mode is easy to access - good for giving lenses a 1.5x reach, up to 4k.
Maybe a HD 2x crop is possible using Live Cropping, but I'm not too familiar with that mode? @PannySVHS
 

All-I codecs, but you might not need them.

Lol! I'll watch this first - Gerald can wait 😂

I won't post the video because I know Andrew really, really doesn't like him, but Tony Northrup tested the S5II's autofocus with the Sigma EF to L adapter and it worked really well. 

That would be cool. I presume that to take advantage of it one would need all L mount lenses and preferably Panasonic-made lenses?

So one of the youtubers shares the following rumors:
S5mk2 - 2000$ 
S5mk2X - 2200$ .. and it has 6k60 FF! 
If that will appear to be true (only 5 more hours till we can verify that), I say we have a big win for Panasonic. 6k60p camera with PDAF, very good IBIS and all the Panasonic goodies for only 2200$ frankly sound very tempting.

Let us all not waste any time with getting into unfriendly arguments. Why feed a negative vibe with another person, feeding it to eachother! There is plenty opportunity to not to get involved in using unkind words. There are plenty of kind and interesting people communicating on this forum. Please, everyone, let´s all keep our act together.
Citing Steve Yedlin, is a good start imho.
Hey, don´t make me test myself to film a blank wall with my S1. 🙂 So I am very grateful for findings and fantastic insights along the way.
 

Primarily because I owned the S5 and did a ton of research before deciding not to go all in on Panasonic's lenses and ecosystem; the #1 reason of course was the dismal AF but the second was the lenses.  You are focusing on the numbers but not the user experience. 
What I found in my research was that sure tons of lenses and multiple vendors; but each one was tweaking their lenses to work optimally with their own native cameras. So the "Alliance" is primarily in name only and yes the physical mount is the same across cameras, but in reality unless you owned a Sigma body and got Sigma lenses or a Panasonic body and got Panasonic lenses then there was no guarantee that you would have the best user experience. This would manifest itself in everything from FW support to AF issues to working properly with adapters.
So, if you go right back to square one and focus on only the lenses from each maker working optimally with their own bodies then yes; your lens selection is in fact limited again unless you go all in on MF lenses or just don't care about AF or adapters. Dead is probably a strong word, but to me, converting my entire camera ecosystem to something like that while trusting that the lenses and adapters that I need will all work properly was definitely an idea that was DOA for me.

Since I'm here... I may as well post a couple shots from my newest copy of the Nikkor 35mm 1.4 lens on the FP. I've owned a few of these over the years and always make the mistake of selling it. With the uptick in prices, I thought it would be out of reach... well patience pays off and I was able to find one for a reasonable price.

That
is an unambiguous and obvious clue to what we all been waiting for the past 5 years! Hurray comrades! 

New year New Phase: 4th january
 
 

Noise!
Just kidding 😆 I guess if the RAW files are 14bit versus 12bit for other cams then the file sizes are going to be bigger. Don't know how the JPEG ended up bigger than the RAW though?

I would definitely try not to err on the side of underexposure with this camera, if possible, unless trying to preserve some very important highlight. If you avoid underexposure, results seem to be pretty clean even at higher ISOs.

@deezid Are you seeing sharpening artifacts even with non-native glass? I ask because I know that there is unavoidable in-camera sharpening when using Lumix lenses. But when using adapted glass on a Speedbooster I don't notice objectionable sharpening in the files, even with sharp lenses stopped down.

There are some crazy deals right now for Black Friday, at least in France. I found the GH6 for 1579 Euros (tax included) with a 400 Euros cash-back scheme, an extra year of waranty and a SanDisk Extreme 1tb drive SSD thrown in (to be confirmed). Well, it looks like I'll be able to purchase on after all... along with the promised GH6 guide from @Andrew Reid. I was not expecting that, but now that I have a gazillion M43 lenses, it makes sense. The main problem now is that I have too many M43 cameras!

Mister read the freaking title! It's a color thing - not me trying to cut videos for free🤌 Good luck though and please send some framegrabs for me to color if you feel like it😘
Since nobody wants to share anything yet (I get it - this forum is mostly about fetichising equipment - which I totally dig - I was just trying to create, like a teambuilding exercise or bonding opportunity or whatever) I took the liberty to dig through the posts and go right at it.
 
Whatta ya' think?
 
And _please_ give me all the shit you feel like, as long as you post your best shot at it. Or not. It's the internet and I'm not easily offended.
 
I feel like this could be a fun little competition that doesn't have to involve the effort of leaving your (and my) mothers basement in order to participate😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨
 
Much love

For the sake of discussion, here's a little comparison from a while back between all of the smaller cameras I own (the SD9 is a CCD camcorder):

^FZ47

^EOS-R

^GH1

^G85

^SD9
The two CCD cameras have that kind of muted, undersaturated skintone that I associate with some of the older S16 film stocks (though I really don't like the SD9 as much -- which is just as well, because you can't turn the auto ISO off while shooting).

Lol! For entirely irrational, emotional and nostalgic  reasons I often consider moving back to Canon for video. But it's stuff like this that acts as a reality check on my daydreams.
At the moment I'm loving the spotmeter on the GH6. I look for something white, set exposure to +2.3 stops with the spotmeter and am done. OK, my footage might be out of focus but at least it's well exposed 😂

Lol! For entirely irrational, emotional and nostalgic  reasons I often consider moving back to Canon for video. But it's stuff like this that acts as a reality check on my daydreams.
At the moment I'm loving the spotmeter on the GH6. I look for something white, set exposure to +2.3 stops with the spotmeter and am done. OK, my footage might be out of focus but at least it's well exposed 😂

Lol! For entirely irrational, emotional and nostalgic  reasons I often consider moving back to Canon for video. But it's stuff like this that acts as a reality check on my daydreams.
At the moment I'm loving the spotmeter on the GH6. I look for something white, set exposure to +2.3 stops with the spotmeter and am done. OK, my footage might be out of focus but at least it's well exposed 😂

Looks like there is a variable 10x FHD zoom function…which leads me to believe the FHD 24p image is oversampled. If so that’s huge. 

OK, I just popped outside the back door and pointed the camera at a street light at night at base ISO 250 and DR Boost 2000 and there was no streaking visible in the viewfinder.
Honestly, it's such a non-issue. Don't let it put you off. Like I said, I had totally forgotten about streaking until now, because I simply haven't seen it since the time I succesfully attempted to reproduce it.

Here's a handy little tip for, I guess, any V-Log shooters. If you use the default V709 monitoring lut using the V-Log View Assist function then you still get a relatively washed out image. Not only is the contrast level quite mild, but the black never becomes true black on the LCD or viewfinder.
It makes it a bit harder to eyeball exposure as two stops under or two stops over still looks decent on the screen.
I made a VLT file (link below) with much stronger contrast - around 7.5 stops, which is the average scene brightness range. If you stick this on your card and load it up in the menu and use it you will get true blacks.

But it also makes it much easier to eyeball if you're slightly under or over as the contrast level is quite higher than the Panny default.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qYrz5lq4CUgWkKgudGI24f2VWp3CdkCu?usp=share_link
Note: it does make banding more visible as it's a low resolution LUT. That banding is "there" in the default View Assist LUT as well, it's just not as noticeable. But obviously it has no effect on the footage recorded.