hyalinejim

Can you upload a file? I wouldn't mind having a look at it.

Just an observation after limited testing, but it seems to me that when using EF lenses (and maybe others?) when there are multiple people in frame and human detect AF is on then the camera often randomly shifts between people, which is very annoying.
However, if I turn off AF detect settings completely and switch to AF tracking mode then I can just tap on one person and it's very good at holding that person until I tap elsewhere.
 

Thanks!
Just checked the light, its the same for me. I also tested it on the original S5, and it only lights when charging. Maybe there is a setting so you can use it as a tally light (not sure).

I guess the AF eats battery and that's why its default to off when its not recording.

You can set it to AF constantly in the menu Video>Focus>Continuous AF>Mode 2
Congrats on your new camera! Can I ask you, when it's switched on does the power light next to the on/off switch turn on? Mine doesn't, which I find weird, unless it's charging.
Another odd thing is that Panasonic doesn't give you a battery charger in the box. Just an AC adapter to plug into the camera directly. I already have one from the GH6, but it's a bit miserly in my view.
Another miserly oddity is that old GH5 batteries won't fit in the S5II battery compartment, but they do in the GH6 which also takes BLK22s.

OK so I've had a chance to look at the S5II's colour (when converted to from V-gamut to V709) and compare it to the GH6 and to reality. In short, it's a bit different to the GH6, but not as huge a difference than the GH6 was to the GH5, for example. You might get away with using both in a multicam shoot and not matching them, but there are some differences in skin. And both the GH6 and S5II fall quite a bit short of colour as it is in reality, but in different ways.
GH6:

 
S5II:

 
Reality:

 
You'll need to open them in separate tabs to see the differences.
In relation to @Django 's concern with red in skintones, if you switch between S5II and Reality images you'll notice that the S5II has a range of oranges that are too red and too dark. This doesn't do any favours to people with less than perfect skin like our friend Mister Camera Conspiracies.

Skintones are looking good to me using a LUT I made for the GH6:
 



Over the weekend if I have time I'll try to shoot some charts with the GH6 and S5II to check how close or not the colour is.

Skintones are looking good to me using a LUT I made for the GH6:
 



Over the weekend if I have time I'll try to shoot some charts with the GH6 and S5II to check how close or not the colour is.

Skintones are looking good to me using a LUT I made for the GH6:
 



Over the weekend if I have time I'll try to shoot some charts with the GH6 and S5II to check how close or not the colour is.

Not all STM lenses are quiet or fast with focus though in my experience - the EF 50mm STM I have is slow although not too noisy, even the RF 35mm STM I tried was quite slow and noisy with AF, the older EF USM lenses I have were better. I do have a Canon EF 70-300mm nano usm lens that is fast and quiet with AF. 
This is where I think the Panasonic 1.8 primes will be great - they are all silent AF with focus breathing control and manual focus speed control. As you say most of Canon's lenses with nano usm are the slower zooms
I think the Sigma adaptor has really given Panasonic a huge boost and the S5ii could interest both Sony and Canon users - to me it is now a perfectly valid hybrid or b-cam for a Canon c70 or C200 owner that has EF lenses.
Likewise for Sony users who are still adapting EF lenses - by all accounts the L mount Sigma adaptor  works better for AF than the equivalent EF to e-mount adaptors. 

@Django and anyone else who's interested I've uploaded a bunch of very short clips here at different resolutions and crop factors to check out:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13zSYccjrhj1WXKDNMFioxTAoQbZyuP80?usp=share_link

I just had a quick look at this and it seems that when using EF lenses with the MC21 you need to turn on the IS switch on the lens in order for IBIS to work. This was a bit strange to me as I'm used to a Metabones Speedbooster where the lens IS switch has to be turned off for IBIS to work. If it's not an IS lens then you don't worry about the switch, lol, because there isn't one. Then there are two options. One is body only and this is the best:

 
The other is a weird mixture of body and lens:

 
This second option is jerky with EF lenses on an MC21 and is in no way comparable to body only. So I don't think there is a way to have both full IBIS in all directions plus whatever the lens can do.
But, I think I remember seeing some  YT reviews with Panasonic lenses where the reviewer just stuck with body only. So I would say that body only is also good enough for EF lenses.

Skintones are looking good to me using a LUT I made for the GH6:
 



Over the weekend if I have time I'll try to shoot some charts with the GH6 and S5II to check how close or not the colour is.

Skintones are looking good to me using a LUT I made for the GH6:
 



Over the weekend if I have time I'll try to shoot some charts with the GH6 and S5II to check how close or not the colour is.

Because of the rolling shutter, or because of something else?
I assume that RS will be improved in APSC mode, so there is that option if you know there's a train due any minute!
I'm just having look at the footage now myself. Today was my first day using the camera properly, did a corporate job with it this morning. All good. Sometimes the AF got confused (you can see this in one of the seal shots I uploaded - Animal AF was on but it just lost it) in which case I just switched it off and used manual. Like, for people when there are 2 or 3 in the frame it sometimes hops back and forth between targets randomly, whereas I would prefer if it waited for me to select who to focus on. I had increased sensitivity to +3 so maybe that has something to do with it. But for standard interview shots it was a relief to just let the camera roll with the lens wide open and I could concentrate on other things besides focusing.
One of the questions I was interested in looking at in the test footage I uploaded was: is the 3.1x crop in HD pixel-pixel mode usable? The answer, I think is yes but only by keeping noise low by exposing at base ISO and/or overexposing to keep noise at a minimum and also stopping down to wherever the lens is sharpest. In the clips I uploaded, the first few HD pixel-pixel shots were at 2.8 which is probably too soft. But this was at f8 and around 1.5 stops overexposed at base ISO and I I think I could just aboutt use it in a client vid if I didn't have time to change to a longer lens to get the shot:

 
So that means that a 24-70 roughly becomes a 75-210. But you really need good light to do that to avoid noise and lens imperfections. Would be great for travel in sunny places, not like grey old Ireland!
 

@Django and anyone else who's interested I've uploaded a bunch of very short clips here at different resolutions and crop factors to check out:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13zSYccjrhj1WXKDNMFioxTAoQbZyuP80?usp=share_link

Thank you kindly sir,  above and beyond - get my camera either tomorrow or monday but this gives me something to play with in the meantime

@Django and anyone else who's interested I've uploaded a bunch of very short clips here at different resolutions and crop factors to check out:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13zSYccjrhj1WXKDNMFioxTAoQbZyuP80?usp=share_link

@Django and anyone else who's interested I've uploaded a bunch of very short clips here at different resolutions and crop factors to check out:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13zSYccjrhj1WXKDNMFioxTAoQbZyuP80?usp=share_link

You can assign a function button (and 14 of the buttons on the body are re-assignable) to "Image Area of Video". This brings up a small overlay with three options: FULL, APSC and Pixel-Pixel. It's quite fast to switch between them. I have this function assigned to the red record button as I use the shutter to start and stop video clips.
There is a bit more noise in APSC mode, noticeable even at ISO 4000 (higher dual gain level). But the noise is mainly luma noise and is quite fine and I would say it looks filmic. For those who may be interested if you shoot in HD you can get a crop factor of 3x in pixel-pixel mode for some serious reach. You might even get away with it with a sharp lens at f8 and at base ISO 640 with good exposure.
Some graded noise comparisons for reference at ISO 4000
4K FULL:

 
4K APSC:

 
HD pixel-pixel (not normal HD)

 
 

@Djangoyou can also get a huge pixel-to-pixel crop mode if you're shooting in 1080p, handy in a pinch sometimes if you need some insane zoom.
Also, re: custom modes, the c3 mode let's you have an unlimited number of "virtual custom modes" so you just spin to C3 and then pick from a menu of your saved modes, I'm up to like C12 or something like that on my S1, it becomes very handy to have individual presets saved for different scenarios, I.e. Different ProRes raw or B-Raw output modes, anamorphic ibis and desqueeze settings, high frame rate modes, etc., so that you can switch very fast on a shoot and not be digging through menus. Easy to rename them too, so you're not having to memorize a number, it's nice and clean. 
Panny loves to make their cameras basically infinitely customizable. Long-holding any button on the camera will immediately bring up a full menu of all possible camera option/setting/toggles under the sun that can be used as a shortcut, very handy. Then you can save all of those unique shortcuts to different custom modes as you see fit. 

Richard wong”s S5ii vs GH6 ibis video looks as though there were strengths and weaknesses to both.  GH6 had better pitch, it did better on bumps.  Whereas S5ii had better yaw then the GH6, so a bit smoother.  S5ii ibis seems to be the one to beat for now when it comes to full frame.  I think the next M43 from Pana/OM could be Go pro level though 

I just had a quick look at this and it seems that when using EF lenses with the MC21 you need to turn on the IS switch on the lens in order for IBIS to work. This was a bit strange to me as I'm used to a Metabones Speedbooster where the lens IS switch has to be turned off for IBIS to work. If it's not an IS lens then you don't worry about the switch, lol, because there isn't one. Then there are two options. One is body only and this is the best:

 
The other is a weird mixture of body and lens:

 
This second option is jerky with EF lenses on an MC21 and is in no way comparable to body only. So I don't think there is a way to have both full IBIS in all directions plus whatever the lens can do.
But, I think I remember seeing some  YT reviews with Panasonic lenses where the reviewer just stuck with body only. So I would say that body only is also good enough for EF lenses.

Well, as you can imagine, I spent the afternoon running towards and away from the camera like a fool, trying to figure out if phase AF work for the EF lenses I own (it does). I would guess at this stage that every EF lens will work with the MC21 and, who knows, possibly with other adapters too. But the important variable is how noisy are they going to be.

Up to now, I had been using an old Sigma EF 70-200 2.8 as my main interview lens for corporate/promotional vide. The phase AF works very well on the S5II but the noise of the motor is too loud and distracting to be usable for my work. My other workhorse lens, the Tamron EF 24-70 2.8 is not too noisy, and in APSC mode gives me roughly the field of view that I Iike for interviews. The Canon 24-105 is not too noisy, but I don't really like it (low light transmission and weird non-constant aperture behaviour when stopped down). My only other EF AF lens is a nifty 50 which we already knew works fine from Kai or somebody.

This was my motivation to get the S5 II. I had noticed that occasionally I missed focus in interviews if the subject moved a little and I felt that wasn't good enough. Now I don't need to hover near the lens quite so much, sweating bricks if the subject leans forward or takes a half step back.
The other thing I began to have a look at was  if it would change how I shoot B roll. I was fairly happy with how I pull focus manually previously. Nevertheless, I now have the option use human tracking when shooting B roll of people, and normal tracking when shooting objects.
I'm also looking forward to putting phase AF through its paces in trying to nab some shallow DOF shots of my kids running around the place.

What are you looking for in terms of specs and content? I don't have anything coming up that I can share but if I can shoot something for you easily I will.

I didn't quite say that. I said it had "a half-assed curve", and go on to explain what I mean by that (a mild contrast curve with elevated blacks where middle grey is not at the correct value). It's an easy fix for anyone who knows how to use basic colour correction techniques, which I presume you do.
Pannys colour conversion is basically sound, with the caveats that colour is not entirely accurate and that the same conversion is used for different models with different colour responses. But I'm sure that's true for Canon and Sony true.
Likewise for the rest of the thread, which is a digression into exposure technique for log in general, not just V-Log.
There's nothing particularly difficult about V-Log. I could pick the same or similar nits, I'm sure, for C and S-Log.