Marcio Kabke Pinheiro

I have this one, got almost mint in 2015. Is probably my sharpest vintage lens, used it to shoot concerts and is insanely good. Still in the same price range that I've got (around US$ 160), for me is a no brainer.

Always feared it, but proper dry cabinets are extermely expensive here. Gone to found some cheaper solution. First, tried convert an old cabinet as a dry one. Dry cabinets are sealed(ish) cabinets with some kind of Peltier cooler in reverse - it condenses the humidity and send the water to the outside. My home solution was to buy a small home dehumidifier, put inside a sealed(ish) cabinet with a humidor-controlled relay to turn on and off the dehumidifier (as stated in the Zeiss article, if the humidity drops below 30% it is bad for the lenses - greases start to solidify). Kinda worked, but was not reliable. The final solution was much more simple: - Bought a bunch of sealed plastic food containers (kinda like this one - the important parts are the rubber seal and latches on the lid); - Cheap digital higrometers, one for each box; - A huge bag of silica gel (don't know if it is urban legend or not, but bought the orange colored ones - the blue ones have cobalt, and some say that when heated, to remove the humidity when saturated, releases carcinogen fumes); - A set of little organza bags. Put the cameras / lenses in one box, an organza bag filled with silica gel and an hygrometer inside the box, and close it. The hygrometer goes to around 40-45% of humidity, and if you don't open the box very often, stays under 60% for months. When it reaches 60%, change the silica of the organza bag (the silica could be heated and retores to the original state). For me, have worked VERY well - never a single case of fungus, and very little maintenence (and cost).

Yep, it's a partnership, with DuLens: https://photorumors.com/2021/12/30/schneider-kreuznach-is-bringing-back-the-famous-iscorama-54-anamorphic-lens-adapter-with-the-help-of-the-chinese-company-dulens/ "Crappy chinese lens" is becoming a thing of the past.

In fact, the statement in the (translated) article is: "Canon's SLR flagship model is known as the "EOS-1" series, the first of which appeared in 1989. The latest model "EOS-1D X Mark 3" released in 2020 will be the last model in fact." He is talking about flagship DSLRs. Maybe they could release some midrange models (the Rebels still are VERY sought after here). even some kind of 5Dish model. But probably they will just keep selling the current models until there is no more demand.

Merry Christmas and welcome back. 🙂

This lens had one of the best video AF in my GX9. In fact, for vlogging product shots (that ones which you put the product in front of you, AF picks it, and goes back to your face when the product is removed) it worked VERY well.

In fact, I always used AWB until a shot that I've taken on a trip - with a GX85, by the way. It was climbing the stairs in the center atrium of the British Museum in London with a gimbal. Even more strange, the atrium is completely flooded with sun light from the ceiling, which in theory should have caused no troubles with AWB. Don't know if the camera picked the warmer tones of the surrounding walls, but from the bottom to the top of the stairs the white balance shifted back and forth around 5 times, ruining the shot. Still forget almost all the times to lock the white balance while filming (I'm an amateur, after all), but this case changed my mind about AWB - now I almost only film my daughter inside home, and with my X-S10 sometime I noticed some AWB shifting too.

For waveform, I guess that you mean histogram. 🙂

Looks like it does 30fps in RAW, but with one of the newer lossy raw compression modes.

My curiosity is who is making this sensor. The readout speeds are insane. Video rolling shutter rates 8K/30/24~14.3ms 4K/30/24 oversampled (from 8K)~14.3ms 4K/120/60 subsampled~7.8ms

I was talking about the GX9, not G9. 🙂 And I second the @BTM_Pix suggestion to use it hack to use Cinelike-D in the GX85, used it a lot when I had mine - grading it with Leeming Lut resulted in amazing footage. Look for a free Android app called Gmonitor to activate Cinelike-D using wifi.

Indeed. I was talking in lower prices, Panasonic S1 line, Canon R5/6, Sony A7S III...always when people ask for internal NDs in this price range, the answer is "it is impossíble because the cameras are smaller than flagships and there is no room for an internal ND".

If the additional 4k crop is not an issue, the GX9 is even better than the GX85, in my opinion. Got on used from a friend , interested in the 12-60 zoom kit lens, the plan was to sell the body and keep the lens, but instead the GX85 body was sold. Better color science, tilting EVF and dedicated focus switch (both things that I've missed from the old GX7), faster operation and a little better menu, better color from stills, better AF (for CDAF standards).

One more thing that DJI got a lot of manufacturers on the wrong foot: built in NDs. Lot of others lying saying "we did not put internal NDs because there is no room for it" - meaning "if you want internal NDs, pay a lot more". DJI inserted internal NDs in a minuscule camera with a VERY shallow mount. Liars exposed. Lots of outside the box thinking in this camera.

With the exchange rate, import taxes and "Apple Brasil tax" here, the top M1 Max costs the same as an (big) SUV...

It is out. CineD have a hands-on. https://www.cined.com/dji-ronin-4d-review-this-is-the-ultimate-stabilized-camera/

Just remember that the payload is not very high.

If someone have a VEEEEERY low budget for a motorized slider (and a small camera), I have this gizmo and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/Kingjoy-Motorized-Electric-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B073XNVFZQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Thanks! Will take a look. 🙂

Yeap, this Cullmann would be a good solution for the gimbal - in fact, the one that I had looked like a lot this other Cullmann. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/511754-REG/Cullmann_CU_40440_Medium_Quick_Release_Assembly.html But afaik the plates only work with their plates, no? Still have the solution to remove the strap to put the camera in the gimbal - I use PD anchors too, but releasing both anchors to remove the strap is time consuming too.

Dunno how many here use the cameras in a hybrid way (stills + video), having to switch modes frequently, but could be a good topic to discuss. My case: when (I could go back to) travelling, generally use one cam to shoot stills and video. And, for video, frequently want to put it fast in a small gimbal, take the shot, and remove it again to come back to stills. Of course, this means having a quick release in the gimbal and a plate in the camera. Long ago I settled with Arca plates - currently, besides some generic plates and clamps for tripod work, In trips I use a Peak Design Standart Plate (https://www.peakdesign.com/collections/clips/products/standard-plate-v3) on the camera: small and still compatible with Arca (kind of, no secure pins for example). In my gimbal, in the last trip, used a very small arca clamp, like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Release-Compatible-Arca-Swiss-Included/dp/B07NB2RSFZ/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=small+arca+clamp&qid=1632921831&sr=8-27). It worked, but putting the camera on the gimbal involved: - Putting the camera on the clamp; - Align precisely the camera in the clamp in a previously balanced position; - Tight the clamp knob; - Take the shot; - Untight the clamp knob; - Remove the camera. Once I had a drop-in clamp for a Manfrotto-ish plate in a tripod that would work much better: just drop the camera in the clamp, the plate have the same format as the clamp chamber (no alignment needed), lock fast with a lever, and to remove just open it with the lever and take the camera out. But in my last trip, did not found anything like it for Arca. Today I've saw that Pgytech released a solution that is exactly that: https://www.pgytech.com/products/snaplock-plate-adapter. A small Arca plate (that looks like very similar to the PD one), and a autolock plate. Just drop the camera in there (with the quick release on the gimbal), take the shot, press the button and remove. And that Ulanzi have a system that solves the other part of the question - removing the camera from the neck strap (where I have the camera for stills) to put it on the gimbal - https://www.ulanzi.com/collections/quick-release-system/products/falcam-f38-quick-release-camera-strap-clip. Put this on the neck strap, press to remove the camera from the clip, put it on the gimbal, take the shot, return the camera to this one, move one. Just one caveat - the plates from both systems looks like that have the same dimensions, BUT maybe they are not compatible (the plates for both do not fit in Peak Design clips, for example). The Pgytech have the gimbal solution, Ulanzi have the strap solution, but don't know if their plates are compatible. Anyone used any of these sytems, or know some similar system? (the most important solution for me is the gimbal part, have to be like the Pgytech clamp).

Second that, amazing colors. Do you remember what hack you was running in this one, @Andrew Reid? Still have my GH2 here, when I have time to use my cameras again, want to try it again.

Already saw a manufacturer (don't remember which) that used the "Hybrid AF", using PDAF in the initial stages to know what direction to go, and using CDAF in the final stages for precision (was Sony?). Maybe this will be the "way out" for Panasonic - "we are using PDAF and DFD combined".

Will mention just that - the Olympus XA. Have one and love it, genius touches sparkled everywhere - the clamshell mechanism (that doubles as lens cover and on/off switch), the insanely light shutter button, very good and compact lens, the size. Was more amazed by it than from my newer digtal cameras. If OM Digital have the idea to make a digital version (once I made a post in other forum saying how it could be done), probably would sell boatloads. Never will happen, though.