jase

1 minute ago, tupp said:

Thank you!!!!   That's perfect -- no video necessary!

 

Considering Panasonic mirroless now!

Just to be more precise, when I half press the shutter to focus, the aperture stays fully open. Only when i press the shutter button to take the picture, the aperture is stepped down during exposure and then switches back to be fully open.

1 minute ago, tupp said:

If someone with a Panasonic camera and lens would merely observe the lens aperture (set to f11-f22) during a 1 second exposure, the answer would be clear.

Just did it, sorry for being a bit harsh. Let me describe what I did: i have set the lens to Aperture mode and then to f16 (maximum of my lens). The lens is still wide open. I press the shutter button, the aperture (e.g. the blades of the lens) switch to f16 and after the picture is taken, the aperture is again wide open. I can provide you with a video if you want me to.

Just now, tupp said:

I hope so.

 

However, could someone with a Panasonic camera and lens please confirm this by directly observing the aperture stopping down during a 1 second exposure?

 

Thanks!

 

if you would take your time and read the last two pages of this thread, you would have an answer to your question. If you dont want to: the answer to your question is yes, I can confirm this with a Panasonic 20mm lens.

9 minutes ago, tupp said:

So, my question is:  Can Panasonic mirrorless cameras do the same -- can the aperture (not the shutter) on the lens of a Panasonic mirrorless camera be always wide open for stills until the shutter button is pressed?

Exactly thats the behaviour on the GX85 if constant preview is set to OFF. Regardless what aperture you set, it the lcd shows it wide open.

1 hour ago, imagiNet said:

I gave up. It is so reddish it is unusable. Gone back to the Leeming LUT One that nails the skin tones. 

Would you care to share some examples in the corresponding thread?

4 minutes ago, Ronnie Amighetti said:

I actually prefer GH3 profiles when using FilmConvert with my GX85 files. I've been shooting with a Neutral profile for the first few months with all settings down to -5. I now switched to Andrew EOSHD profile suggestions, still testing it out especially regarding noise reduction, and still I like GH3 profiles better. My 2 cents.

Thanks for that, I will give the GH3 profile a try!

3 hours ago, Dean said:

Just got a response from FilmConvert regarding whether they will be doing profiles for the GX85 and G85 ... good news !! Here's their response ...

"Hi Dean, thanks for your email - yes to both questions the GX/85 is definitely on our list, we're actually about to survey our users to help set our camera profiling priorities for the next few months, so don't forget to submit your request. The GH4 profile is probably a good first bet.

Best Regards

The FilmConvert Team

www.filmconvert.com"

Thanks for that piece of information, I contacted them as well

3 hours ago, Dean said:

Do you have and footage we can look at with these settings? Are you just leaving the footage as is or grading them afterwards?

Does anyone use FilmConvert with the G85 or GX85?

Just wondering what settings you use and which profile you choose from FilmConvert? 

Would the Natural, Standard, CineD & CineV settings from the GH4 in FilmConvert be appropriate?

Thanks.

GX85 works just fine with the filmconvert GH4 profile, see my videos. I shoot in standard.

Now I only need to find out why in P mode i still only get the largest aperture, also when pointing it into a very bright light source. But maybe there is just another option I forgot about this one as well

8 hours ago, Vesku said:

The aperture is not moving in photo mode until you take the final image. It stays fully open for focusing. If you use manual photo mode (M) and "Constant preview" from custom menu the aperture changes when composing an image. The "Constant preview" is always ON in video mode.

Can this be your issue?

Oh boy, I think you might be right.. Just run a quick test and it looks like that was it. Embarassing...

2 hours ago, John Matthews said:

Did you try removing the battery while the camera is on? Not sure if it might do something, but worth a try if nothing else works... it might send the camera into some other sort of reset. It worked on an old Pentax of mine.

Wont work. Guess I have to call support tomorrow.

1 minute ago, John Matthews said:

I'm going to say this is software problem... something went haywire. Try removing lens, SB, and all that stuff. Reconnect. If it persists, it should be possible to reinstall firmware and reformat your card. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know what would.

I did all that. Did the reset numerous times and according to the Panasonic website, you cant update the firmware again if the version already matches.

Ok now it gets super weird: if i go into the movie mode with Aperture priority, it works again - but not in the normal A or M mode for photo...

Just now, John Matthews said:

Try putting it back to factory settings. But you'll need to re-enter all your custom profiles.

Just now, mercer said:

Doubt it would work, but did you try a camera reset?

Did that already, didnt help

Just now, mercer said:

Okay, I thought maybe the aluminum on the camera side may be tweaked a little. So it doesn't work with the Sigma 18-35mm and speedbooster either?

Correct. I first thought it is the speedbooster, but on my Panasonic 20mm the behaviour is exactly the same I also removed the battery now for one hour, not helping at all. I am afraid there might be something wrong with the body.

1 hour ago, mercer said:

Does the mount look bent?

Camera side. 

What do you mean by that? The mount lock on camera side is fine, once i put the lens on, it makes the usual click and everything is tight.

While running some tests I noticed, that somehow the aperture within the lens doesnt change anymore although the camera tells me on screen, that the aperture is changed. I tried different lenses, same result. Even did a complete factory reset, still no aperture change anymore...? Someone ever had such a problem? I checked the contacts within the lens mount, all pins are fine and clean.

Some more tests, this time without the Tiffen Ultra Contrast filter.

Std 0/-5/-5/-5

Std -5/-5/-5/-5

Both shots have just some small exposure adjustments so that highlights wont clip and shadows are not crushed.

I am torn between both. Colors are in general very accurate on both. When I compare what I see on my screen with what is next to me on the table, both match it pretty well. The first shot with contrast set to 0 is even better, for example when i compare the blue from the cup. However, when contrast is set to -5, there are more details in the shadow (see above the orange. I yet have to see how much different both have on skin.

20 hours ago, Mattias Burling said:

Quick question for anyone that has this camera and the Panasonic 20mm or 14mm.

When manually focusing, does it show a distance scale with numbers?

And if so, if you set it to for example 3m and power off/on, does it snap back to that?

/M

I have the 20mm and it doesnt show the distance scale with numbers.

P.S.: long time no see, nice to have you back.

2 hours ago, jonpais said:

Here's a more fine-grained test, comparing reducing contrast to -2 versus lifting shadows +2. These were taken this morning shortly before and after a rainstorm, so the lighting conditions changed at times while I was shooting - so a couple of clips may be a bit too bright, others a bit too dark. Tell me what you think.

I downloaded the 4k file and made some screencaps for anyone who is interested:

To me, they are pretty near to each other, e.g. I dont seen any night / day like difference (if you guys do, maybe thats actually a thing that I dont see it, means I am easier to please :D). However, I believe that the highlight rolloff and shadow detail is best on Contrast -2,  but then again I stared at those screencaps for quite some time...

1 minute ago, aldolega said:

Wow, very cool. Could also be useful for ND with ultrawide lenses that don't have filter threads. So there's a lip of some sort that the filter glass fits into?

I wonder if the extra glass messes with the optical formula, affects the back focus etc? Paging Brian Caldwell...

Well, the speedbooster glas has like 34mm diameter if I would have to guess. Also, it sits some millimeters within the adapter, so the filter glas wont touch the speedbooster glas.

The effect of the ultra contrast is now much less as when mounted on the lens thread as normally. I started a seperate thread for this, were Brian already commented:

Hi @Andrew Reid, i bought your Procolor package and I cant reproduce the great results other people got (yet) - so maybe I am doing something wrong. Could you help me out?

This shot is with your recommended settings, OOC:

And this is after I applied your LUT:

Obviously color is subjective, but I dont really like it. So i started tweaking it - I made the white table in the left down corner white again and I dialed down saturation. The result is much better, but if one watches the blown out highlights in the window it becomes apparent, that they are even more blown out now:

Did I maybe just overread something?

The GX85 has no luminance level setting (if I am not mistaken) and I am using FCPX.

2 hours ago, sanveer said:

Do you think the results would be better with everything at 0/0/0/0 perhaps? 

I dont know, I would have to test that again. Could try to do so this weekend.

1 hour ago, aldolega said:

How did you manage this? Just a very small filter that fits inside the lens mount?

I bought a Tiffen Ultra Contrast Filter as 37mm Version. Then i took a metall saw and removed the filter housing very carefully, so that I ended up with just the glas. At first I had the impression that it might be too thick, but when I put it inside the speedbooster it doesnt touch the speedbooster glas because it is a bit larger than it. The glas of the rear element of the Sigma lens doesnt protrude as well. Anyways, I put the glas inside the speedbooster and then carefully mounted the sigma lens - no issue at all. The filterglas stays at its place - seems to be a perfect fit.

2 hours ago, John Matthews said:

Regardless of using Procolor, I DID notice a serious problem with contrast at -5 in really flat, softbox light. It gave me and my daughter a strange skin condition that I don't have. I've decided to go to with contrast at 0 since it doesn't really impact the final image negatively... at least I can't see it. Anyway, it fixed the problem.

Makes sense. I think I will stick to 0/-5/0/-5 also.

1 hour ago, sanveer said:

Are you supposed to push the settings to -5/-5/-5-5? Also, did you use the Ultra Contrast Filter in these shots?

The highlight recovery seems to be in existent curiously in thsee pics with Procolor.

The window seems to have some crazy blown highlights. 

Yes, Ultra Contrast 2 Filter was used which I have put between the speedbooster and lens - flaring issues are greatly improved. Window is really blown because it was already golden hour and the sun was directly shining through the window.

I did some tests today with different settings and Andrew's Procolor mode. Forgive me my awesome hangover look - 4K screencaps

This is the OOC Standard Profile with 0/-5/0/-5:

And this is with Procolor applied:

To be honest, I dont really like it. My skin looks as if I had sex with an orange.

This is my own quick grade with Filmconvert:

And since I am using normally Standard with -5/-5/-5/-5, here are the same shots again.

First OOC:

Procolor:

Own grade:

To my eyes, there are no real differences between -5 on all and -5/0/-5/0. Yet, maybe I didnt recover totally.