jase

7 minutes ago, Kisaha said:

Very nice trip and video. Very enjoyable and proper editing. Welldone!

I really admired the use of your limited means, and the rythm of the edit.

18mm on a croped sensor like this won't be wide at all. All these mountains and epic nature and architecture would be benefited by an ultra wide lens. There are ultra wide to medium options very well suited for these kind of trips.

Thanks! Which lenses would be suited in your opinion?

9 hours ago, Cinegain said:

Great stuff, man! Cool footage, fun edit! Nice job on the sound as well, btw. 3:53 timelapse was stunning!

Be careful with that Sigma. It's a beaut, but I wouldn't really use it handheld. Dual IS (2) works like a charm btw when you throw an OIS lens in front. It's like monopod-mode or something (for handheld camerashake, not necessarily replacing a gimbal stabilizer any day soon).

Why wouldnt you use the SIgma handheld? Because it is so big? I would tend to put both hands on the lens and leave the body "handsfree" (the same i did with the Voigtländer in combination with the GM1). Dual IS is tempting, but focus by wire simply doesnt cut it. I hate it... so in the m43 realm, the only lenses that would be suitable for me are the oly pro 7-14 or 12-40 since they have a good manual mode (at least thats what i have read). Of course, the Pana 12-35 2.8 could be a perfect fit for Dual IS, but yeah.. focus pulls will be a pain.

Finally finished the recap of 3 weeks of backpacking in Peru!

Lessons learned:

1. Dont just bring a MF only lens with you, I had discard too many shots that would have been great, yet where out of focus.
2. Next to 1, dont just bring a 25mm lens with you, especially for landscape this does not cut it. Next time I will buy a (ultra) wide zoom, this will give me much more possibilities. Maybe the Sigma 18-35, will see...
3. And dont forget your sun hood

Just now, squig said:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5601.msg174310#msg174310

thanks, need more coffee.

5 hours ago, squig said:

10/12bit appears to be working reliably on a bunch of cameras now including the 5D MK3. It can do 10bit 50p 1080p continuous. 60p1080p looks like it should be doable with a 2.39:1 crop. It's recording up to 3k 10bit 24p continuous too.

where did you read that? cant see it in the original thread.

3 hours ago, jonpais said:

 I was impressed with Jase's clips made with the miniscule GM1.

And what if i told you, that they were all shot in 720p? Panasonic makes amazing cameras, Best bang for the buck.

Thanks! This seems to prove in turn @bunk's theory: i would say that placing the filter between adapter and lens yields an image that has much lens flare/haze, yet the filter effect is reduced. I think i could live with that, awesome @Justin Bacle

Thanks again, Brian! Do you think that i have to cut my filter glass in such a way that it fits the diameter of the speedbooster glass? Otherwise it would have to rest on the black surface and this will likely to break the filter when attaching a lens?

Thanks guys!

@Chris Oh: why not go directly for the GM5? Has a (though crappy) EVF and 1080p 60p. Yet the display is smaller...

3 minutes ago, jonpais said:

GM1 - amazing fucking camera. Smaller than a pack of Marlboros. Magnesium alloy body. A touch retro. Gorgeous 1080p (a little moire here and there, but that's nitpicking). Snappy autofocus (for single point anyhow). But... no IBIS, so unless you place it on a tripod or stabilizer, your pictures will be shaky as all hell with a non-stabilized lens. Which kind of defeats the purpose of having a small, discrete camera. Now for the fun part - you'll have to either find a spacer online or make one yourself, because without one, you won't even be able to mount the camera on anything. 

Hands down, GM1 and the Voigtländer was really a next level combo for me. I disagree with you jonpais, pictures are not shaky as hell. The good thing is that because the cam is so small, you hold the lens(!) with one hand and the other one focuses - no need to hold the body since it is just a bigger lens cap. The following videos were shot by me with this combo, with no gimbal, tripod at all - not even a neckstrap to stabilize anything:

https://vimeo.com/112851875

https://vimeo.com/106980788

https://vimeo.com/101335718

https://vimeo.com/96670129

https://vimeo.com/89190460

1 minute ago, Justin Bacle said:

Flaring is different :
- There is less flaring when a bright source is outside the frame -> less contrast loss and bloom
- You get internal reflections -> More optic flares

It really depends on the look you want. I can shoot tests this evening if you want with both configurations

That would be great! In general, I just want to be able to shoot in a bright source. I totally accept that the image changes (since this is lens dependent), but at least I want to be able to see something at all :D

Just now, Justin Bacle said:

On my anamorphic setup, I put the ultra contrast filter between the adapter and the lenses for best results  So i'm pretty sure you can do the same

Ha, now it gets interesting! Can you confirm that there are less issues with flare with such a setup? 

17 minutes ago, Brian Caldwell said:

It depends a lot on the lens.  For some lenses, such as the 50/1.2 Nikkor, there is almost no space between the rear element of the lens and the front element of most  Speed Boosters.  I would hate for you to crush your filter between two lens elements!

Thanks Brian! But other than the crushing aspect, what do you think? And do you know by chance, how much space we have between the Sigma 18-35 and the metabones xl ef?

9 hours ago, Chris Oh said:

This is from 2012, just from quick google search,

"Filters mounted between the lens and imager WILL change the focus characteristics of the system. Lenses designed to have a filter on the rear must always have a filter installed to focus correctly - if you don't need ND, then you must put a clear filter on the rear or you will lose infinity focus or at least throw off your marks significantly. Cameras with built-in ND have that glass factored into their design as well.

Not as simple as just slapping a filter in the cavity."

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/archive/index.php/t-278342.html

Thanks for the thread, good read.

Yet, today we have adapters for mirrorless that allow the placement of the nd behind the lens - and no one complains about loosing infinity focus.

Some other quote from this thread:

Quote

A filter behind the lens will throw focus off by 1/3 the thickness of the filter used.

Well, knowing that my filter is a fraction of a millimeter and multiply that even by 0.3 - thats like nothing.

On 1.11.2016 at 6:49 PM, jonpais said:

Once you've held a Voigtlander in your hands, all these other plastic-y lenses will feel insubstantial. 

This.

My issue with selecting lenses is that the Voigtländer was the first real manual lens I ever owned & used extensively. It raised the bar astronomically so that all other lenses dont "feel" good when using them.

So, as some of you guys might know, I am a big fan of the Tiffen Ultra Contrast Filter. I get awesome results (for my taste), yet I am about to drop it.

Why? Because Shooting with the sun pointing in whatever angle to my lens yields an image with so much flare, that i get one big misty mess. No sunhood helps, hell even when I use my whole palm of my hand as a sunhood, it only helps in some cases, yet not all of them.

However, since I like this filter so much I was thinking the following: cant i just put it behind the lens instead of in front of it to avoid this huge amount of flare? Of course, even if this would be possible, it is next to impossible getting the filter glas behind the lens. But how about using a speedbooster and put the thin filter glas on top of the filter and yet behind the lens? Is this a stupid idea because the flaring would still be the same regardless the position of the filter? Maybe @Brian Caldwell could chime in...

Just now, John Matthews said:

I'm finding that the weakness of the 4k for me is the computer. 

Well, since I am an avid FCPX user, i work with proxies on my Macbook Pro 2011 and it works flawlessly. Sure, the preview looks a bit.. disappointing, but for editing, I dont need the perfect IQ.

On 29.10.2016 at 10:15 PM, John Matthews said:

@jase,

I think I read that you were mainly shooting 1080p 50fps. I would like to know if it was only because you thought you'd slow it down or because you thought it was a slightly more gradable image? ...or both. I'm just trying to get the best gradable image out of the 1080p options without transcoding the 4k.

While currently editing my trip to Peru which was my first project with the GX80, I have to admit that the 4k clips just look plain awesome... If it would only have slowmo.

1 minute ago, Justin Bacle said:

Everything is here : https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215.0

Ty, wasnt sure if this table is still up to date, especially with those recent achievements. so 1920x672 continous, without desquashing pixels. This camera is so tempting.

Sorry for digging, but which resolution allows continuous recording in 50/60p currently with ML? I have seen quite some recent progress with the desquashed pixels, but I am not involved deeply enough to understand it completely...

46 minutes ago, John Matthews said:

@jase,

I think I read that you were mainly shooting 1080p 50fps. I would like to know if it was only because you thought you'd slow it down or because you thought it was a slightly more gradable image? ...or both. I'm just trying to get the best gradable image out of the 1080p options without transcoding the 4k.

True, i am only shooting 1080p, but again only because I need the slowmo. I didnt do any bulletproof tests but I think the 4k is superior. Yet, 1080p is good enough for me.

Looks really awesome. If i hadnt such negative experiences with drones (ok given, it was a DIY project 6 years ago) this video would make me buy the Karma.

Does anyone know to which FOV this 2.7k linear mode translates to? 

1 hour ago, Grimor said:

https://m.dpreview.com/articles/6201873948/western-digital-launches-the-my-passport-wireless-hard-drive-with-built-in-sd-card-reader

 

Perfect solution. Used in on my trip to Peru, worked flawlessly. Has an own battery, so no AC needed. Copies from SD and also from your smartphone by using their app.

8 hours ago, conurus said:

As I mentioned, the vast majority of EF lenses are FTM - you just turn the focus ring, and it will change distance, even without electricity. But without half-pressing, AF remains active while you are doing that, and AF/MF fights with each other. The easiest setting is to simply turn OFF 'Continuous AF' under the video menu. AF won't get activated until you half-press the shutter. Then you select an FTM lens - 35/2 IS is one of those.

Ah, i see. This would be heaven to me, thanks for the info!

Thanks, yet this is stressing my fingers, having to press the shutter button all the time half pressed while focusing with the other hand. Based on your statements I assume that using a lens like the Canon 35mm F2.0 IS with manual override doesnt change that, right? E.g. i have to press the shutter button all the time half way, otherwise the MF wheel has no effect (or I have to lock the AF after using it)? If yes, I hope Panasonic will use the S-AF/MF implementation somewhere in time where i can press the AF button during recording all the time to get AF, yet be able to turn the focus wheel at any time without having to press the shutter button or stuff like that.