brucker

just thought I'd mention this,...   been playing with my contax zeiss 135 f2.8 and my shigascope and they're not getting along.   i seem to have to stop down to atleast 5.6 before things get decently infocus,... any larger and it's horrible.   @jgharding does this sound like the trouble that you had with your 50mm?   i got mine from an auction so i cant vouch for it not being a lemon, where as my 35 was from a proper shop, and my 50 was listed as having been checked as well.

absolutely love Mind Your Language!

audio first, since its about language you'll want to get that bit nice and clean. good audio with crappy lens and lighting will be better than crappy audio with a gazillion dollar lens/lighting setup.   depending on the cafe and its design, you might be able to get away with natural light and some diy reflectors.    i'd spend the day scoping out the cafe you want to use, see how the light changes through out the day and pick a time when it looks brilliant.

yeah, while packing up to move i pop on mtv for the first time in years and was surprised at the number of anamorphic/anamorphic-esque videos,... some big people obviously been lurking round these here parts.   there is a black and white Rihanna one as well,.. cant recall the name.

slapped a bit of foil on the pins,... the camera still demands i stop being silly and attach a lens. nothing broke, so i think its safe to do.

definitely worth a shot,.. looking forward to your findings! over on personal-view they have a hack for a bunch of different nikon dslrs,.. but there's a only a text hack for the v1 for the time being. hacked and hotrodded the v1 could be a really tasty little thing.

are you letting the image clear on its own? could you try depressing the shutter half way as soon as you've taken the 30 frames and then try another 30 frames immediately after?

had a bit of a play with my V1 today,... - using a transcend 32gb class 10 card it writes pretty quickly,... the V1, in single still mode, displays the last image taken for about 1-2 seconds. in burst mode it does the same, but if you depress the shutter button half way, it's then ready to go again,... so it's pretty speedy. i would imagine on a faster card the time might be shorter. - but,.. on the transcend 32gb class 10 card i get an error in that it doesnt always capture a full 30 frames,.. this normally happens when i try and shoot again really quickly. unfortunately i dont have faster cards to see if the card speed might be causing this. i did try it with slower cards and with those sometimes i got 4 frames sometimes 10. if i gave it a break it would return to 30,.. so i'm pretty certain it's the card speed. - one thing that bugs me,... when the electronic shutter is on silent, there's no indication that its actually taking a picture. you can enable the shutter sound,... which sounds like one of them toy guns we played with in the 80's. - i put a super takumar on via an m42 adapter and it doesnt work, it thinks there's no lens attached, obviously. - exposure is 100% full auto, as stated... which with raw isnt really a problem as far as exposure itself is concerned. i only have the 10mm f2.8 so that means pretty full Dof all the time. the 18mm f1.8 might be able to get you some shallower Dof. i had a quick look on the local japanese auction sites and no, i cant find any m43 to nikon 1 adapters either. i think it's great that this little thing can do this,.. but the full auto exposure is annoying me a bit. but as Andrew said,... with twixtor and fast cards and a bit more time spent infront of the computer, it's a nice little 4k machine and i'll definitely be playing more with it.

ooooh, gonna have to try this out! i for one am surprised that no one's really tried to seriously hack it yet,..... poor little thing suffering from sensor size stereotyping :P will try it out on my lunch break today.

@nigelbb slippery slope indeed,...    linhoff technica,...  

@Zach: what film were you using?   i was going to mention this but i figured that it would be better to mention after your first roll,... not that i'm trying to 'teach' you or anything,... you might have really liked your first roll after all.   for c41, if its 400 speed film, tell the camera its 200, 100, 50 and so on,...    for e6 you want to under expose a bit so 100iso at 120, 400 at 500 ish, and so on.   that tends to bring out the colours a bit more. 

in!

depending on your digital, with a macro lens, a lightbox and a tripod i've had colleagues print decent quality A3 from 35mm 'scans'. you could definitely play around with those, and for the web its fine. bigger an yeah you'll want a dedicated scanner.   make friends with someone that owns a drum scanner :P   

happy birthday, and oooh, nice bit of kit you have there,... wish i had an uncle that was into photography :P   there are loads of videos on youtube about how to load/unload film so you might want to watch a few first,.. its easy as piss so dont worry.   basically, there are 2 types of film that most people shoot,... c41 colour negative and e6 reversal/slide film.   c41 is very forgiving, and you dont need your metering to be spot on to get a decent image. also most places can still process it for you in under an hour. some places will even do a CD for you. low res scans but still nice to see your stuff without having to have prints done.   e6 is slide film,.. a bit pricier and development times depend on where you are,.. in the a big city you might get same day processing, in the countryside you might need to wait a few days as they send it out. e6 is less forgiving, you want to make sure that your metering is decent.   having said that,.. c41 under exposed turns out muddy,... you know that 'vintage' hazy crappy film look? thats under exposed c41. e6 under exposed is moody and dark with inky blacks. c41 over exposed can be powdery and pastelly, while e6 will just go all white.    c41 you can over expose more without losing too much of the scene, while e6 you can underexpose more and it wont go muddy hazy brown,... it'll just be black.   i would suggest you play with c41 first,.. kodak gold is pretty cheap and i think can still be found almost anywhere. if you're after a 400 speed film fuji's superia range is a good choice.    i'm sure a few will recommend you shoot black and white, but again, depending on where you are, it can take a while to process, which kinda takes the fun out of it. there is a kodak c41 black and white,...kodak BW400CN,.. is alright, but cant replace the loverly tri-x.   after choosing your film, you load it and tell the camera what iso film you're using,.. and then you go shoot. maybe try a few in full auto, then aperture priority, then shutter priority and see which suits your shooting style best. if you know your exposure you could just go full manual.   benefits of film? imagine if you could swap out your sensor,... its like that,.. every film has its own character and you can pick and choose depending on what you're shooting.   there's alot to learn and flickr groups are very helpful, as well as youtube channels,... but thing to do tho is to just go out and shoot as you need to learn the camera, and more importantly the film that you're shooting. try and stick with one kind of film till you get to know how it performs, then switch it up later.    if you like your colour, wait till you shoot e6, you wont want to shoot anything else,... cept maybe medium format e6  :P   have fun!

i've actually been enjoying the contax zeiss lenses, only have the 35/2.8, 50mm/1.4 and 135/2.8,... but the 85's and 100's are meant to be nice too.   they're affordable for the slower 2.8/3.5 versions, US$300-400, and are loverly to shoot with, sharp and contrasty,... almost too sharp, but they complement the not as sharp or micro-contrasty helios, mir and jupiter 9 i also enjoy shooting with.   it depends on what you're looking for,.. the russian stuff is more filmic/cinematic, but the contax zeiss, being sharper, is a bit more modern looking. here's a still from a project i'm working on,... the 50mm on a GH2:     the 135/2.8 is affordable,..about $200, not as good a reputation as the others, and you need to stop it down a bit. but other than that, the 85, 100, and up are all meant to be pretty decent.   i've found them no harder than anything else to focus with, but then i normally stop down to f2.8 on the GH2,... might be harder to nail focus on 5D at 2.8 maybe, shallower dof? the helios is very easy to focus with though.   the zooms, while nice, have a front that rotates while focusing which could make it a pain for anamorphic,... i'm still trying to decide on how much of a masochist i am,... :P

yup not aligned,... bring up the grid and try getting it aligned with that too... flares work really well for that.

very nice!   i liked them all at smaller apertures,... but then i've been getting sick of the super shallow depth of field look and i think they all, even the last looked much more cinematic when stopped down. the f8 shots are my favorite.   maybe its just the plethora of spherical shooters using shallow Dof that shallow Dof even anamorphic reminds me of regular video now. not criticizing Quickhitrecord in anyway, just my oddball brain.   but i was like " very nice, very nice too, very nice as well, this too is nice, whooaaaa!"   so is it just me or does f8 look more special than the larger apertures? perhaps the ratio of bokeh to clear + anamorphic bending ties it all together?   i will stop blabbering now  :P   thanks for the test, great job Quickhitrecord!

oooh, they look cool as fuck!   black lenses are so 80's pc beige :P   very nice footage too,... had i not just been on a bit of spending spree i'd definitely pick one up,... might still do,... my helios has been somewhat abused  :ph34r:

that's a good idea!   i do recall having a drop of about 1/2 -2/3 of a stop between mounted and unmounted.   i'll try and sort something out this weekend, cheers for the idea rich!

quick update, cos i been having a ball :D   picked up a gh2,...   picked up a contax zeiss Distagon T* 35mm f2.8   and made these stills:           the shigascope vignettes on a 35mm+gh2 but is fine on the 50mm f1.4,.. nothing post worthy on the 50mm yet.   i've found that it is possible to get a sharp image at 1.4 with the zeiss,... which is not good for my wallet  :angry:   but i've also found that at 1.4, the little gap between the clamp and the lens,... light comes through that giving me a double image sometimes,.... so have to figure out a way to seal that space up.   at 2.8 its gone completely.   contax zeiss CY very very affordable compared to newer zeisses, but are razor sharp without being too sterile, so seriously, look into them before their prices get stupid high. 

that does look really loverly!   and yeah, zeiss,.. works so well with anamorphic,... i just got a couple of contax CY's and i've been in heaven the past couple of weeks :D   cant wait to see what you do with the gh3!

just a note,... some anamorphics' squeeze varies with closer distances so be prepared to do say 70% instead of 66% to get a proper look.   and women like it when you de-squeeze less, especially the big'uns :D

i focus the other way,... taking lens first, then the anamorphic.   it might be a bit assbackwards but you can see your zone of focus move back and forth so i sort that out, then i can just turn the anamorphic till its clear(er) or read the distance off the taking lens.

no worries, if you need a hand let me know.   where abouts are you?   i:m down in nagasaki.

all of them  :P   yahoo's the biggest though, but its been pretty dry the past few months.   happy hunting!