brucker

cheers guys! yeah i think i'll try bringin the blacks out a bit more then re-uploading. these things havent been popping up on the auction sites recently.

YET ANOTHER ANAMORPHIC TEST! :rolleyes: this time its a Mir-1v, wide open with an ND4 and a polarizer, as a taking lens with my beloved Shigascope,.... and yours truely cos i'm billy-no-mates: [media]http://youtu.be/-vWvcQpyEhQ[/media] i think i need to calibrate my monitor,... and figure out why i walk funny,...

its not that bad really,... maybe before trying to shoot something, spend time doing stills.... cos you need to practice both focusing and composing for this new/old squeezed format. they come out looking gorgeous as well so its not like you're wasting time. not sure about the kowa but i guess it'll be similar,... if you use a reasonable aperture,... say f2-2.8 then you dont need to be spot on on the anamorphic focus,... so if your subject is at 10 feet, you can set your anamorphic to around 10 give or take and then focus with your taking till its sharp. if youre at f1.4 all the time like some people are then yeah dual focus is horrible,... it has converted me to the joys of f2-2.8 lenses,.. nice and easy on the wallet :) have fun :)

that's lovely, definitely looking forward to more!

lovely composition! quite like the shots with loads of dead space,... suits cats well the evil things that they are :P

yeah, i've also read people saying 100,200,400,800,1600 is better.

cheers richg :) yeah the greater DoF of the x2.7 crop sensor makes it easier to focus fast lenses close to wide open,... its still easy to miss focus at f1.4-2 and with an anamorphic in front its even less clear so i need to stop down to about f2-2.8 to nail focus. which is nice cos now i dont feel the need to own anything faster than an f2,... anamorphics, gorgeous and saves you from must-have-super-fast-lens-itis :D

but i'm so far from being a professional :D i'll upload something for sure when i get my hands on a nice c mount.

yeah fully manual in video mode, shutter goes to 1/60 or higher, iso fully manual, and of course the aperture is on the lens. and the screen is a "what you see is what you get" so you see the exposure whereas funnily enough, in still mode you dont get that. as i said tho, no focus aids if you're using a dumb adaptor and manual focus lenses, and on m42 and c-mount they're all dumb adaptors. there is an ft-1 adapter that will let you use certain auto nikkor lenses but i've got no experience with those. re: profiles, you've got standard, neutral, vivid, monochrome and a couple of others, all of which can be tweaked colour and saturation wise. the colours is one of the reasons i actually got this,.. like choosing a type of film for us old school guys :P the neutral setting is pretty neutral and you can make it even more boring if you want. the main reason i got it though is that the noise at high iso is very nice,... its still noise but under certain conditions can resemble film grain. so sometimes i like to push the iso high and switch to black and white,.. nice grimey monochromes :D i've only just started getting into video on it and i'm finding it quite fun, but i'm no where near a professional so, grain of salt and all that. i've yet to get any c-mounts as i've been messing with anamorphics and the ones i have vignette with anything under 35mm,... having said that i think i'll be picking up something in the 12-16mm range soonish which should give me a 35mm-ish field of view. if you think of it like you would an 8mm/16mm film camera, then i think you'll enjoy it quite a bit,.... get it cheap and its a load of fun B)

i've been using the V1 in 100%manual with dumb adapters and old lenses,... mostly takumars, and recently i've been playing with anamorphic too. its my only digital as i'm normally a film shooter, and i got it cos i got it really really cheap,.. so i dont have anything else to compare it to. in manual mode it is really 100% manual, like old film body manual, which i like, but you may not,... no metering which isnt a problem cos you can see the exposure on the screen, and no focus aids of course but the screen is pretty is high res enough to get decent focus. in the anamorphic forum i've put up a couple of test shots with anamorphics.

haha, i quite enjoyed that :D

[quote name='tony wilson' timestamp='1351922045' post='20943'] i thought one of the points of scope was to make stuff look analogue [/quote] this! its great that they're working on it but from that picture they've got a long way to go,.. i can trawl thru my crappy still shot thumbnails and easily pick out anamorphic or not from the look, not just the aspect ratio. looks like they got the width but not much else yet.

eh, what's redstan been up to? yeah the flare's a bit much, but still amazing accomplishment. gonna look for that thread you lot are talkin about.

love both of those movies! this lil lens has some nice DNA :P a couple of reasons for not seeing the lens,... - the nikon v1's sensor is a x2.7 crop, about the same size as 16mm i think. just a bit bigger perhaps. so you're looking thru the center of whatever lens you have on. - the x2.7 turns the 85mm jupiter 9 into a 229.5mm lens making its FoV more narrow so it goes thru the center of the little shigascope. on a 50mm(=135mm equivalent on V1) i still dont see the corners when it flares. in the kowa anamorphic-8 thread i used a 50mm takumar pointed straight at the sun and didnt see the corners. the shigascope is also an 8mm lens. on a 35 i dont quite recall but i dont think you'd see the corners unless its misaligned. and on a 28, a vignette comes as standard. i dont know how much that would change on an m43 or larger sensor. now that i think about it, you might see some corners using a 35mm on a larger sensor. i'm a film shooter and this v1 is my first digital so i dont have any other digitals i can try it on. someone want to lend me a gh2? :P i do have daylight clips, but they're even shittier than that one :D kept missing focus for some reason that day, my poor macgyvering skills probably. i'm going to head out later today and try it again, its a bit grey today though.

oh and minimum focus is about 2.5ft.

the Shigascope x1.5 anamorphic macgyver-ed to a Jupiter 9 on a Nikon V1, no grading or post other than unsqueezing and shitty editing :unsure: . from the colours though, i think i had the Nikon V1's colour profile set to "vivid": [media]http://youtu.be/26YxVSD79LE[/media] [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/21346/5090de900f714_DSC_1858.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/21346/5090ded53f1f4_DSC_1860.jpg[/img] so a couple of weeks ago i picked up a Shigascope x1.5 anamorphic. its a teeny lil' thing designed for 8mm cameras and projectors. If you google shiga you'll find that shiga is/was a small little company in the middle of japan that made anamorphic elements for many of the big boys, including Panavision. Often these were painstakingly made by hand. I'm guessing that this is from the same people. that's about all i know about its heritage, perhaps tony or someone else could fill us in on some history. on a nikon v1 with a 1 inch sensor 35mm works well with no vignetting, while a 28mm vignettes slightly, enough to put one off if you dont like a vignette. i would imagine the same would be true on m43. (someone correct me if i'm wrong though.) its a loverly sharp lens which makes it easy to dual focus. I've found it clearer and therefore faster to focus compared to my 8mm kowa prominar or the 16mm elmoscope. not sure why, but the sweetspot is easier to determine, even in low light on a wide open jupiter 9, which is f2. on my 50mm f1.4 takumar, wide open i frequently miss-focused,... but stopping down a bit made things easier. here's a still that i took the other night: [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/21346/5090e2eec0ca7_machanDSC_1666.jpg[/img] so it's a pretty damn good bit of glass and I'm quite pleased with it. Of the three little baby anamorphics i have i think this is the one that i'll be keeping. I heart my shigascope :wub:

cheers for the heads up on the industar. happy hunting, i'm hitting my local second hand shops as well today B)

yeah, you're gonna be limited pretty much to the focal length of your taking lens and the widest you can go is about 28mm before a vignette starts appearing. having said that, you probably wont have to rewrite, just frame creatively to get your point across. what about one of those wide angle adapters? anyone tried one of those?

what a coincidence, i was trying out my jupiter 9 on the shigascope this evening, man it looks nice! its the only russian glass i own so i need to look into these a bit more. the mir 24m looks really really tasty,...they dont look too common round here though unfortunately. definitely trying out the mir-1v, nice and cheap here too. what about the industars? they seem to have a similar look from what i've seen on flickr. helios 40,.. want!

woah, 200 quid's a bit over the top :huh: just had a look at the mir 1b,... looks quite nice, i might have get one myself B)

just had a quick google and there is a super-multi-coated tak 35 f2,.. not sure how well that'd flare,... and there's a massive auto tak f2.3 which is older so should flare more if flare's what you're after? over here they seem to fall within your budget, should be similar over where you are. Bioskop, that's a great idea!

[img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/21346/5087b07098d07_lazywednesdayafternoons.jpg[/img] one more still from an afternoon spent at the bay. i'm loving how easy this lens is to work with :D

i know you said nothing slower than f2.8, but the super takumar 35mm f3.5 is pretty cinematic when slightly underexposed. and its dirt cheap as well, you could probably find one for less than US$50 cos its so slow.

so i went for a stroll after dinner, took a few stills and a bit of video. first time fiddling about with an anamorphic at night so quite a few shots were out of focus,.. my fault entirely :ph34r: as it is very sharp. here's the sharpest one straight out of the camera. the taking lens was a 50mm takumar f1.4 and this was shot wide open. [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/21346/50869081b79fe_shigascopetaxirank.jpg[/img] it focuses down to just under 3ft. about 2.75ft and it's nice and sharp. of the three that i've recently acquired, this lil shigascope is by far the easiest to focus with, and this was handheld. the kowa prominar anamorphic-8 and the elmoscope-16 (for 16mm) were harder to work for some reason,... its like on those two the sweetspot is harder to spot clearly. there's a bit of ghosting so the "infocus" point seems to tiny even at f3.5 on a 2.7 crop sensor. or maybe i'm doing something wrong. i even had the elmoscope mounted on a velbon spt1 to keep it in place. it may only be my samples as well. but on the shigascope the sweetspot seems to be easier to determine. and even at f1.4 it was easier to figure out when i've gone over or under . it flares a lovely orange and a little green,... so not too sci-fi-ish. the shaky handheld footage i shot tonight looks promising, nice and cinematic. so much so that i;ve decided to macgyver it to my lens and take it out on a tripod through out this week,.... tonight's shaky handheld footage, while not bad, would do this lil lens a disservice i reckon. tony wilson, you were spot on, it is rather yummy.

it got here today,... and like tony said, it's tiiiiny. but it looks really sharp. B) this might be the one i decide to keep :D