ntblowz

Nice with 3 year warranty & extra battery! I also pre-ordered today, the free Sigma 45 2.8 is too good to pass, my friend pre-ordered the body and Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 L mount combo.

So I took the plunge. One Panasonic ambassador told me about an interesting offer with a shop in France. Besides the Panasonic offer with the Sigma 45mm offered for free, this shop will give you 3 years more warranty + a free battery. I thought it was a good deal so I pre-ordered it. I am pretty sure I would do it as I need another body to complement my S1H but this offer made me purchase it right away.
So it should arrive by the end of september/beginning of october. I will put it through its paces as I have some interesting jobs coming along, especially one shooting a documentary for the french national television service (France Television) if it is delivered in time.
So I'll give you all my first feedback really quick I think.
Pretty excited by this camera as it is the one I was waiting for in the L-mount system : a smaller camera than my S1H that could still shoot awesome video to match with the bigger brother, being quite smaller to be my B-cam/gimbal cam, also my main stills camera, and one that I could bring everyday to shoot some street and mundane photography (without the hassle to release the S1H from the rig/cage between pro gigs) and one camera that I could take on vacation without sacrificing any quality in stills picture and video.

This has NOT worked for me on the R6. A battery door hack/ dummy battery is needed.
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230592#msg230592

https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/is-this-camera-company-the-first-casualty-of-the-us-china-trade-war
Z-cam is also in trouble.. interesting to see Z-cam use the same chip powered by Huawei phone... is that why they can do 4k 160p on the same sensor as bm4k & gh5s due to brute power of their cpu?

I've created a web-based javascript app that lets you quickly set the camera's clock to +1 day and -1 day to help automate visionrouge's workaround. It only works in browsers that allow you to disable CORS Policy Security. Unfortunately none of the mobile web browsers available support that option, so for now this is limited to home/office/studio use.

Here is the link to the app: http://www.testcams.com/ccapi/datehack.html

Full instructions including how to disable CORS Policy security are in the GitHub repository: https://github.com/horshack-dpreview/canondatehack.html

Interesting to know only Panasonic prores raw give u full control, Nikon's one is the worst, all other only allow ISO but no WB control, and WB is the one that is the most important!
 
 

UPDATE:
I have tried the date/time trick without defeating the battery door sensor. Just pull the battery as normal and it works.
https://www.eoshd.com/news/magic-lantern-users-create-practical-canon-eos-r5-overheating-timer-workaround/

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5.
The procedure is explained here.
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

In short:
- Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like)
- Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down.
- Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved.
- Turn back on the power.
- Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day)
- Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery
- wait 30 seconds
- Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone.
(if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn...
Please share your findings.

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern.
This is the final refinement on my hack.
You have the right time for your recordings!

In my opinion, this is one of the reasons to upload in 8K with YouTube. It doesn't really matter what display you're viewing it on, phone/laptop/1080p display/4K display, setting the quality to 8K gives you the maximum data rates that YouTube can offer. An 8K upload on a 4K HDR TV looks incredible. Even if your source is 4K, I would use a custom H.265 Media Encoder preset to get an 8K file for YouTube. 
Again, it's not about the resolution it's about the data rate and a 1080p file gives you roughly 29% of the data rates that an 8K file does. 4K gives you about half. So just by uploading an 8K file you get double the data rates for your view port. 

Only 3rd party are not corrected , most Canon EF lens have correction done in camera

An indie feature film shot in anamorphic using the Panasonic S5 :
 

38 minutes of 4K 120fps 🔥is Luckily I don't need that on a every day basis... 😁

Thanks. It's 75C, a new high record for the R5 🥵

Well, well - actually I did test it with my R5. Firmware 1.1.0 - and guess what: it works like at charm.
Let the camera overheat in the 120fps mode. Camera gets really warm. I guess I had something like 20 minutes in total (had to erase the clips from my card again and again). Anyway, after the camera overheated I opened the battery door, blocked the little latch to make the camera think it was closed. Went into the menue, forwarded the date by one full day. Confirmed. Took the battery out, waited some 15 seconds. Put the battery back in, closed the battery door. And here it was: Camera still warm after a short pause of 2 minutes (the time it took to go through the procedure) and what do I see in the display: Full recording time, no overheating sign. LOL. Canon, You've got a loophole there. Does the camera even bother to measure zhe temperature at all?!
Say thank you to yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum.
Chris

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum

Record as you wish.
When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date.
Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery)
Put it back.
Timer is gone!
All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip.
BOOOMMMMM
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

 

I will post something on Monday probably that gives a hint of it in operation.
With regard to tracking, just to clarify that the first version does have AF-C so will keep lock as a subject approaches or moves away in the focus zone.
Obviously I think you should buy all of them 😉 
For manual focus lenses you will need a version with the motor interface module so you will have to sit tight for that one for a while longer.
There will be a motor version option of this one following not too far behind.

Yes, this is a big claim.
Allow me to explain how I came to this conclusion, and prove it to you.
First off, the evidence.  This is a video containing 5 compositions that were each shot with either 2K, 2K (and processed in post), or 4K.
It should be easy to tell the difference - so see if you can tell!
Not so obvious is it....
In the video I encourage you to download the video and pixel peep, please do.  
I have pixel peeped the shots directly on the timeline in Resolve, in the output file I uploaded and the YouTube file I downloaded.  It took me zooming in to 200% and finding the place in the video with the finest details, to be able to see the differences, and I know which is which!
Now, the details, to show that the test is valid.
I shot each scene with the GH5 and 42.5mm Voigtlander (stopped down several stops) in either:
4K 422 10-bit ALL-I 400Mbps mode 2K 422 10-bit ALL-I 200Mbps mode (with Resolves Super Scale) 2K 422 10-bit ALL-I 200Mbps mode (with no processing) I exported the timeline to an RGB Uncompressed 10-bit file (65GB - 6,500Mbps!!) and compressed that file using ffmpeg to a 4K 10-bit 422 IPB 225Mbps h265 file, which was then uploaded.  I tried uploading an 10-bit 422 ALL-I file but YT only interpreted that as 1080p.
YouTube then compressed that 225Mbps file to the pathetic 10.42Mbps file you see if you watch the above YT video in 4K.
As far as I can tell, there's nothing I could have done differently to get a higher quality result out of YouTube.
But what about other platforms or delivery methods?
This is just YT.  If you pay for Vimeo, or deliver via any other mechanism that has a higher bitrate than YT this thread should make you feel better about that!
But 4K is useful for things like cropping in post!
Yes, and this test doesn't apply to doing that.  I've tested how much you can upscale an image without it being visible in another thread / test (spoiler, it's something like 150%) but let's leave that aside for now.
But YouTube supports 6K and 8K and ......
Sure, and when people start watching YouTube with their 6K and 8K TVs then they'll start to benefit from that.  Until then, they're getting the 10Mbps file above.
Are you saying that a 4K camera is not required?
There are advantages to having a >1080p sensor.  Downscaled video is much nicer, and there are times when shooting in 4K or higher can have advantages.....
So, when IS it useful to shoot in >1080p?
Lots of times:
Cropping (significantly) in post Overcapture for things like stabilisation If your cameras 1080p isn't that great (which is most cameras TBH) etc. I have nothing against 4K or higher resolutions except that I think most people are making their life harder than it should be thinking that they're somehow getting better results when for many people it simply doesn't matter if they shoot in 4K or not.  This was me.  I fell for the hype, and have gradually been doing tests like this to actually see for myself what is true and what matters - rather than just believing the marketing hype from the camera industry.
Ultimately, the lesson here is that what matters is that you publish in 4K, not that you shoot in it.
Let the questions and comments (and flame wars from resolution fanboys and fangirls) begin...

Unlike contrast based AF systems, the lock speed of the AFX system remains consistent across different lighting conditions.
The benefits of this are particularly apparent in low light or low contrast situations where contrast based systems will have to hunt to achieve lock.
These examples compare the performance of the internal BMPCC contrast based AF with the AFX to illustrate how each system deals with different challenging (too challenging for YouTube's shitty compression by the looks of it) low light and mixed contrast scenes.
 

I'm just on the phone with Shill-U-Like arranging the flights and accommodation for Hawaii for their top 20 influencers so I'll let you know as soon as the date is fixed.

I'd like to welcome Kazuto Yamaki, CEO of Sigma and the product manager of the Sigma Fp and Cinema lenses, Takuma Wakamatsu to the pages of EOSHD for this long interview!
I have recently been shooting with anamorphic with my Sigma Fp - the video you can see above is shot with the Rapido Technologies FVD-16A focus module housing a tiny Bolex Moller 8/19 anamorphic. I have more on this soon, as well as how ProRes RAW performs on the Sigma Fp attached to Atomos Ninja V.
Ever since the Sigma embarked on the high quality ART lenses the company's factory has output higher and higher quality products, even industry leading lenses in fact. Now the Sigma Fp marks their entry into filmmaking cameras too with internal 4K RAW recording, external ProRes RAW and even BRAW - as well as being the smallest interchangeable lens full frame camera available on the market.
Read the full interview:
https://www.eoshd.com/news/the-eoshd-interview-kazuto-yamaki-ceo-of-sigma-and-takuma-wakamatsu-sigma-fp-product-manager/

Stormtrooper is limited "beta" release, the full production Komodo is coming