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Canon EOS R5 / R6 overheating timers, workarounds, and Magic Lantern


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No, No need to do anything It's very simple. Canon do a very simple calculation. When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum Record as you wish. When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date. Drop the power (using the screw story or

Just confirmed that the Date change "hack" is still live with New firmware on R5. 

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1 hour ago, Coffe said:

This is Pictogram. I took a foto with my R5 close to that moment: 

Not pretty - but it should have the precious temperature reading you're looking for 🙂

Next time I will take that picture once I see the symbol again. It comes in red and also in white. And it disapeared seconds after I took out the CFExpress card.

 

Thanks. It's 75C, a new high record for the R5 🥵

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3 hours ago, Lloyd said:

I feel like a celebrity haha. Thanks guys.

I'm glad that it's working on the R5. Honestly this makes the R6 the best camera in the world for me right now ,(besides the stupid clog1 limitation). Even if they do implement a clog3 update, I'm scared that the overheat hack will be patched in it.

Thanks and well done 🙂

Now to see if it melts 😉

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I have another step for anyone to test also.

I should work, but need one beta tester to be sure.

Follow the previous procedure to push forward the day as I discovered.
When you see that the "overheat logo" is gone; turn off the camera using power button.  [this is the extra step]

At this time, the "overheat flag" is now written into memory.
Turn back on the power with the power button. The camera is now booting from a regular boot.
So if you have no warning here, the camera is absolute fine with temperature. This not a "special boot" anymore
And the beauty of it, you can now push back the day as the actual day.
So with this extra step, all your clip are even at the right time.

Can someone test this ? Thanks
I will update on visionrouge.net if so.

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7 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:

What was ambient?

The ambient was 19°C. I had a first run with 4 chunks of 4K 120fps with around 5:20 each. The camera overheated. I changed the date, overheating gone and filmed another 5:20 without any overheating sign popping up. I left the camera cool out for half an hour. Then I started again. 24 minutes (4+ chunks due to card size) until the camera overheated in 4K 120fps. Changed the date. Went on for another 17 minutes. This is when I got the real overheating sign and I've stopped the recording, took the picture showing the 75°C.

The detail that might be interesting for all of us, which I might check again today: I opened the card door and took of the lens (with closed shutter). Let it cool out for 40 minutes, took a picture. Internal camera temperature was at 25°C. But I will test that again to confirm the real cool down time.

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15 minutes ago, Matthew19 said:

 

You again 🙂 Always appreciate your videos Matt.

By the way - tried to make the R5 overheat at 4K 25fps HQ (at 19°C room temperature). Took me 59 minutes to get it to show the overheat warning (which appeared in the photo mode about 10 minutes earlier). Recording on CFExpress. So obviously we will need this neat trick only to shorten the cool down wait period or the "overheating due to obsessive menu use" 🙂

BTW: Still no shutdown after 1 hour eight minutes of 4K 25P HQ. But the GoPro gave up. Overheated!

 

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So this is my final result with the R5 running on 1.1.0:

After 1 1/2 hours I gave up. Couldn't make the camera overheat at 19°C room temperature in the 4K HQ mode.

Camera started at 21°C.  After 1 hour 30 minutes EXIF reports 61°C and didn't go above it. While it said in photo mode that I had 0:00 minutes left, it showed 1:00 in video mode but recorded nonstop 7 minutes before I stopped, deleted the clip and started right again with another 1:00 minutes left. Didn't even need to fool the camera. 

But now I was interested in the real recovery time.

After 10 minutes (indicating 3:00 shooting time left) the camera went back to 41°C (all doors open, camera switched off)

After 20 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera ist at 33°C

After 30 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera is down to 29°C

Weird detail: Toggling between photo and video mode: video mode always shows more recording time than the photo mode. f.e. 10 vs 20 minutes.

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8 hours ago, dellfonic said:

It works! Just tried it:

15 mins recording 8K IPB to CFExpress, overheating icon

Day +1, pulled battery

Inserted battery 30 secs later

No overheating icon

Turn off camera

Turn on camera, change date to current date, no overheating icon.

 

And you don't need to change the card this time either?

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23 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:

And you don't need to change the card this time either?

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

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It seems too simple to be true. But it is. There is a camera reset procedure now. Whenever your R5, R6 is overheated, just go quickly through your date change, battery drop procedure. And your camera is back on and fully operational for all video modes. No matter what card you use.

Only if your camera surpasses 65 or maybe 70°C, that's when the real overheating warning kicks in.

The other question of course still remains - how much can or will the camera endure in long term? But as long as you use this neat trick only to get rid of the ridicously long cool down periods I'd say it's fine. 

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