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I think the main problem coming from these videos is that 90% are made from photographers that have limited understanding of video work. They think IBIS is a gimbal replacement or some sort of steady

I can see why he needs raw, wb is totally off 😄

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1 minute ago, rawshooter said:

I had the camera overheat after 25 minutes of shooting a concert in ca. 23 degrees room temperature, 4K DCI h265 10bit 4:2:0 All-I on dual SD cards, with a Fujinon 50mm/f2 WR lens.

So you were shooting to both cards at the same time, to have backups? Just trying to make sure I understand what happened in your case. If so, I wonder if double recording would cause more heat. Seems plausible, but I'm no electronic or electric engineer. That would really be a bummer, as doubling recording is a critical workflow for a lot of people. 

Btw, how is the autofocus on the 50? 

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10 minutes ago, EphraimP said:

How are you liking the 50mm Meike cine? Do you have the original 25mm? I'm wondering how they compare, because I have the 25 and have definitely been tempted to get the 50 and maybe the 35.

I have the, 25, 35 and 50mm. 75% of my shots are made with the 35mm. When I need wider, I put the 25; very rarely I put the 50mm. Hope Meike will release a 20mm or 19mm if I need wider than 25mm and get stuck by a wall indoors.

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14 minutes ago, BrunoCH said:

I have the, 25, 35 and 50mm. 75% of my shots are made with the 35mm. When I need wider, I put the 25; very rarely I put the 50mm. Hope Meike will release a 20mm or 19mm if I need wider than 25mm and get stuck by a wall indoors.

Yeah, I'd hope they go wider than 25 too. Do the three you have work as a matched set very well. They should, but I understand that they may have made some changes to the optical formula between making the 25 and the rest of the set. For the price, it's really phenomenal to be able to get 3-4 cine lenses for the price of one from another brand.

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9 minutes ago, EphraimP said:

Yeah, I'd hope they go wider than 25 too. Do the three you have work as a matched set very well. They should, but I understand that they may have made some changes to the optical formula between making the 25 and the rest of the set. For the price, it's really phenomenal to be able to get 3-4 cine lenses for the price of one from another brand.

There is absolutely no problem to match these three lenses with the 10-bit F-log. 

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1 minute ago, EphraimP said:

I asked Duclos if they'd make a rear mount MFT to X-mount mod for the 16mm MFT lens and they replied:

"Possibly, but we have many other projects in the works right now."

 

I think 16mm don't cover APS-C sensor size but only MFT sensor.

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7 minutes ago, BrunoCH said:

I think 16mm don't cover APS-C sensor size but only MFT sensor.

You may be right, at least for the Veydras that the Meike lenses are based on. For some reason, I thought the 12 was too small but the 16 would work. But, then again, they might work.

3 minutes ago, elgabogomez said:

16mm on veydra covered the 16:9 area on apsc Sony, I saw it on my own camera. On 3:2 full sensor there was vignetting in the corners. I looked for the 2 or 3 shots I took at NAB 2017 but not finding them 😕 so I have no proof but my word.

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4 minutes ago, elgabogomez said:

16mm on veydra covered the 16:9 area on apsc Sony, I saw it on my own camera. On 3:2 full sensor there was vignetting in the corners. I looked for the 2 or 3 shots I took at NAB 2017 but not finding them 😕 so I have no proof but my word.

Meike lenses are based on Veydra but not the same. Veydra are severe focus breathing, but Meike are almost no focus breathing. Maybe, they lost coverage in this modification.

 

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46 minutes ago, EphraimP said:

So you were shooting to both cards at the same time, to have backups? 

Btw, how is the autofocus on the 50? 

Yes, shot on two cards at the same time for data security. But my experience matches that what is being reported elsewhere on the X-T4.

AF-C video autofocus with the X-T4 is unusable IMHO, both with the 50mm and the 18-55mm. I recorded one video with AF-C and had to throw away most of the footage afterwords. For strange reasons, the focus doesn't say locked on subjects, but pumps all the time - to such degrees that you won't see on the camera display, but only later on the big screen. 

I hope that Fuji will still fix this with firmware but won't hold my breath.

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11 minutes ago, rawshooter said:

Yes, shot on two cards at the same time for data security. But my experience matches that what is being reported elsewhere on the X-T4.

AF-C video autofocus with the X-T4 is unusable IMHO, both with the 50mm and the 18-55mm. I recorded one video with AF-C and had to throw away most of the footage afterwords. For strange reasons, the focus doesn't say locked on subjects, but pumps all the time - to such degrees that you won't see on the camera display, but only later on the big screen. 

I hope that Fuji will still fix this with firmware but won't hold my breath.

Not trying to discredit your experience with overheating, just understand it. I just tried to test the dual record situation, but one of the cards I was using is not able to record at DCI h265 10bit 4:2:0 All-I. 

As far as autofocus, my 18-55 hasn't been having the same kind of pulsing problem. I'm on firmware 1.02. I've only been using it for interviews, b-roll is mostly manual.

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On 7/28/2020 at 3:58 PM, Jay60p said:

Can anyone with the X-T4 confirm this Fuji Rumors post:

“Video Exposure Stepping Fix” in Firmware 1.03 for X-T4

https://www.fujirumors.com/tested-new-fujifilm-x-t4-and-gfx100-firmware-brings-smoother-exposure-changes-in-video-except/

I expect, as Mr. Moon said, the day Fuji really eliminates the ISO exposure stepping ‘the oceans will fall into the sky and the trees will hang with fishes’.

 

(Tom Stoppard)

 

Unfortunately not. At first I thought it was after downloading 1.03, but upon further testing, the exposure changes differently than before, but still looks very awkward. Generally speaking, if you don't go full manual, you'll have stepping or something like it.

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On 8/8/2020 at 8:30 AM, MrSMW said:

Just been playing around with a few options with my XT3 and have a question for actual XT4 owner/users and that is specifically, how good is the 'tripod' IBIS mode?

My most stabilised lens currently is the f4 16-80mm.

It doesn't really float my boat for video work, especially in low light and especially against Fringer and Metabones options that allow f1.8/f2.

But the latter aside, I like a 100% or close to steady shot for all my work. I don't pan or anything like that and certainly never walk.

However, using a monopod on a typical 12-15 hour wedding day is a bind in 2 ways.

1: Along with additional power bank, it's around 3kg extra to lug about all day.

2: It's at least 3x faster than using a tripod, but still nowhere near as fast as a harness attached unit you can swing into action within a split second and make any/all adjustments with your body.

So I am kind of musing just how good (or not) an XT4 is with everything switched on and using say the 16-55mm f2.8, ie, something moderately chunky and weighty?

If anyone has any footage they'd care to share, even better!

I tend to shoot around 30-80mm full-frame equivalent for all my video work and towards the longer end really and there are a number of lens options, but I am very interested to know how close to static footage can be achieved with say 5-10 second clips handheld.

Maybe this has been answered already, but: if you're standing still, the XT4 is fantastic. IBIS is very usable in that type of shot. Even for very simple, controlled pans and tilts, it's good too. Just anything more complicated than that (strafing the camera around, elevating it up or down, panning while doing any other movement simultaneous) it struggles.

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18 hours ago, Inazuma said:

Are there any settings on this camera to crop into the sensor while maintaining 1080 or 4k resolution?

yeah. Sort of. You can get a x1.29 crop any time you want at the touch of a (programmed) button.

When shooting 4k50/60p you're forced to a x1.19 crop at a minimum anyway.

When shooting slowmotion 1080 you're forced to a x1.29 crop anyway

When shooting with Digital Image Stabilisation (DIS) on, you're forced to x1.11 crop anyway. (DIS can't be used during slowmo btw)

The crops don't stack, of course.

Technically ANY time you shoot 4k you can crop x2 into that in post for a decent 1080p too, of course.

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Question for the community : is it possible to assign a button to switch to Manual focus ? I have a hard time with the AF-C and I would love to be able to switch to MF without having to fiddle with the switch on the front of the camera that I find very annoying ^^

 

Thanks for all the tips you might have regarding this issue 🙂

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I caved and finally bought one of these babies. I just have some niggles that I wondered if anyone else is experiencing?

  1. The buttons feel quite mushy. In fact the the scrolling dials push in far too easy. I end up all too often activating the manual focus zoom aid whilst rolling the rear wheel.
  2. Is there no 180 degree shutter option like the GH5? Seems like a very missed opportunity.
  3. I have a HDR tv so I like the idea of shooting in HLG but I want to know if there any downsides to this compared to shooting normal FLOG or a standard profile?
  4. Upon rolling video for the first time with auto exposure, I was getting motion artefacts like this. This was shot in 4k 25p. I also used to get this problem when I had the X-T30 last year. Problem is I haven't been able to reproduce this with manual settings, so I'm not sure what's causing it or how to avoid it. Suggestions?
    image.thumb.png.4785719f2315eca46af08c97f300edbf.png
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1. No issues with the buttons on my end. Pretty similar to  the XT3

2. No 180 degree angle setting. Very frustrating. Would have loved to see Fuji implement a C1, C2, C3 lever instead of the Stills/Movie lever. That way we could have mapped the different video frames rates to different custom options

3. I shoot FLOG and expose normally and slap on the Fuji Eterna LUT in post. Works wonderfully

4. Haven't seen those kinds of artifacts . To be fair I shoot manual and almost always never use the start and end of a clip. I always end up trimming

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I wanted to make a separate thread to ask about this but maybe I shouldn't:

Those of you who have used electronic adaptors to mount other lenses on the XT4 - which one(s) are best for still getting IBIS in the camera body to always function while using the adapter? Not DIS, not lens OIS, not IS Boost - I mean actual on-sensor IBIS.
I'm probably talking about EF->Fuji adapters here for the most part but sort of interested in whatever's out there too I guess.
 

It sounds like with nearly all the Fringer/Viltrox/Kipon/Metabones electronic adapters, you're pretty much getting an "all bets are off" with regard to whether IBIS will function in the camera when using the adapter, depending on the lens. I DON'T use and don't want to use any lenses that have their own OIS - and I know that OIS lenses force you to have the lens OIS supercede and deactivate the Fuji IBIS when using these adapters. But let's say just a regular electronic zoom EF lens like my Tamron 28-75 or Tokina 11-16, neither of which have lens OIS, apparently these will also prevent me from being able to use XT4's IBIS when on all of these adaptors?

Generally it seems like:
Lenses with OIS of their own - Fuji IBIS unavailable
UNstabilised Zoom lenses - Fuji IBIS is still defeated
Unstabilised fixed primes - Fuji IBIS usually may still work
Stabilised primes (rare, I can't even think of any) - Presumably still defeat Fuji IBIS

It's a real shame if so. If it's really only like that I will probably be going with some kind of fully manual dumb focal reducer (like a Zhongyi Lensturbo ii), keeping full use of IBIS (constantly setting focal mount length manually in the menu) and using other workarounds for if/when I want to change aperture.

 

 

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