Bioskop.Inc Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 If you get a good 16D then that's a really good place to start, but the Elmoscope I is the same rebranded & they are normally cheaper - not the smallest, but none are really once rigged up. I wouldn't worry too much about single focus, as they only really make focusing a little quicker & once you get used to dual focus you can hit the sweet spot very quickly with practice. The whole rack focus thing is a little bit of a red herring, as you don't need to be able to for the majority of things you shoot. If it's narrative you are doing, then a simple Shot-Reverse-Shot is such a common sequence when filming dialogue - so many different options & racking isn't the most common. I have an Iscorama & I very rarely rack focus - if I do, I always shoot another way so I have more options. About going wide or using wide lenses with anamorphic attachments - the wider the taking lens the more distortion you'll get. Longer taking lenses really improve the quality of the anamorphic attachment. And as far as sharpness goes, most films are shot around F4 - 5.6 - shooting wide open is such a skill to be learnt & so easy to mess a shot up that it takes more planning. You mentioned the S8, but it's a fixed focus lens so you'll need diopters & will have to move the whole rig forwards/backwards to get focus. The Isco Widescreen 2000 is the same but slightly bigger. Both are really sharp, but need a lot of practice & are ultimately too limiting. Oh, with a x2 on a FF you could always use a slightly wider lens & crop in post to cut out the vignette - I crop all the time with x2 lenses, even x1.5. My advice would be to get a 16D / Elmoscope 1 or 16H - they're cheap, good flares & have a large rear element. mercer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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